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Race truck 4653

TRINDU said:
Always enjoy the 1st hand recaps.

Juat a new rear housing? Or new everything?
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Just the housing. I need to make some significant changes to the rear lower shock mounts and limit strap mounts. The current axle has been in 3 KOH races, 2 regional U4 races, cut and welded on a lot. I would like to start fresh.

Some of the stuff I found once I got home. Missing steering stop stud, missing shock bolt nut and lock washer and loose lower knuckle cap.
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i would consider the rock assault just because you gain a bit of clearance and they are beefy. or something similar .
 
Crazy you lost all those bolts during the race :eek: I know John was pretty meticulous checking all the bolts after pre-running and before the race.

Time to start putting thread locker on everything. Loctite makes a low strength purple thread locker for stuff you need to disassemble easily. I would also suggest replacing all your Ny-lock nuts with "stover" style nuts and your split ring lock washers with Nord-Lock washers. Also, use fine thread bolts where you can, they have much better vibration resistance than coarse threads.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i just looked up them lock washers, today is a learning day, never heard of them before... thanks
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Nord Locks are fawking awesome. Not cheap, and limited number of uses per washer, but they work damn well. I'd recommend looking into their spec on installation where the bolt has potential to rotate, because a Nord Lock only on the nut side may be negated if the bolt itself backs out. Might need two at that point.

I'll second stover nuts on bolts that can be replaced like shock bolts.
 
Don't forget, it doesn't have to be a Toyota axle. Might be a good excuse to add a little beef to the rear.

If you stay Toyota, I'd consider full float for easier 3rd member changes.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Don't forget, it doesn't have to be a Toyota axle. Might be a good excuse to add a little beef to the rear.

If you stay Toyota, I'd consider full float for easier 3rd member changes.
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+1 for consider non 8" rear

I've been looking for a good deal on something to replace mine on my trail rig

Toyota 10.5 would be cool, classic 9" is always good, maybe a 60 but then you don't have a drop put third

Justin Reece runs a land cruiser rear I think right?
 
Justin runs a 9 1/2" LC axle but does sacrifice some ground clearance. Pretty important with 35s. Obviously it works for him.. Some of the big axle jeeps I saw really sacrifice alot of ground clearance. I would think an 8" would survive with 35s and driven sensibly but it is a race and who knows what that will bring.
My rock assaults are setup with a HP Detroit up front and a V6 grizzly out back with Yukon gears and 5:29s, been holding up pretty well. I try not get stupid with it tho...
 
Hodgiemoto said:
After years of abuse and bent, twisted and stripped out 1/2" U-bolts I chucked them in favor of 5/8" U-bolts and nyllock nuts. Much beefier and don't loosen up like my old ones constantly did. I got them from Ruff Stuff and Summit I think.

And how are your rear brakes working? As mentioned before I didn't have much luck with mine.
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I know I'm a little late to the party on this one, but Nylocks really shouldn't be used, there's better options like Stovers since you really shouldn't re-use u-bolts anyway.
 
Hodgiemoto said:
Justin runs a 9 1/2" LC axle but does sacrifice some ground clearance. Pretty important with 35s. Obviously it works for him.. Some of the big axle jeeps I saw really sacrifice alot of ground clearance. I would think an 8" would survive with 35s and driven sensibly but it is a race and who knows what that will bring.
My rock assaults are setup with a HP Detroit up front and a V6 grizzly out back with Yukon gears and 5:29s, been holding up pretty well. I try not get stupid with it tho...
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His rear is offset though, makes a lot more difference than people realize. Closer to the tire, the less you hit it.
 
Arickvan said:
+1 for consider non 8" rear

I've been looking for a good deal on something to replace mine on my trail rig

Toyota 10.5 would be cool, classic 9" is always good, maybe a 60 but then you don't have a drop put third

Justin Reece runs a land cruiser rear I think right?
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Yotas are always a delicate balance... If he's not killing 8" gears while racing, there's honestly not a huge reason to go bigger and heavier. 35s behind a 22re isn't the hardest life for 8" diffs.

Justin does run 9.5" cruiser diffs. They are cool for being Toyota parts but these days they are getting expensive to the point where you're buying fabbed housings and complete built diffs anyway... so good ol' 9" axles are often cheaper and easier to build. But again, probably overkill with 35s and a 4-banger.
 
around here with all the dirt track racing 9 inch thirds are super cheap, can you run them or do you need the $1000 one for off roading?
 
chaplinfj60 said:
around here with all the dirt track racing 9 inch thirds are super cheap, can you run them or do you need the $1000 one for off roading?
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Those are usually spools and taller 3.xx-4.10 gears though, right?

Rear spool is fine but for the front, turning is kinda nice...
 
ive never looked into running a ford nine until after i did my dana 60 then i discovered the 609 axle and now i am like hmmmmmmmmmm that has sparked my interest for sure but that all
 
Yotota said:
Those are usually spools and taller 3.xx-4.10 gears though, right?

Rear spool is fine but for the front, turning is kinda nice...
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Spools yes, but not necessarily high gears. The reason the make so many ratios in the 5-7.xx range is for circle track racing. If you ever look at a sheet it's ridiculous. D60 goes 5.13, 5.38, 5.89s. 9" is like 5.00, 5.14, 5.29, 5.34, 5.38, 5.40, ect all the way to 7.40s :laughing:
 
Yotota said:
Yotas are always a delicate balance... If he's not killing 8" gears while racing, there's honestly not a huge reason to go bigger and heavier. 35s behind a 22re isn't the hardest life for 8" diffs.

Justin does run 9.5" cruiser diffs. They are cool for being Toyota parts but these days they are getting expensive to the point where you're buying fabbed housings and complete built diffs anyway... so good ol' 9" axles are often cheaper and easier to build. But again, probably overkill with 35s and a 4-banger.
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I agree with all of this. Unless he could find an FZJ80 rear, which is what Justin is running. Brakes won't clear 15s though.

The nice thing about just sticking with the 8" ifs rear is its light and it will probably hold up fine for 35s. I'd probably just be pulling the diff every now and then to inspect/rebuild.
 
Roc Doc said:
I know I'm a little late to the party on this one, but Nylocks really shouldn't be used, there's better options like Stovers since you really shouldn't re-use u-bolts anyway.
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School me on why not on the Nylocks. I have them on my shocks, steering heim joints and u-bolts mainly because that's what they come with. Had all of them off a time or 3 and never had any of them loosen up. So maybe there's better and more expensive alternatives but these seem to be holding up just fine.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Spools yes, but not necessarily high gears. The reason the make so many ratios in the 5-7.xx range is for circle track racing. If you ever look at a sheet it's ridiculous. D60 goes 5.13, 5.38, 5.89s. 9" is like 5.00, 5.14, 5.29, 5.34, 5.38, 5.40, ect all the way to 7.40s :laughing:
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That makes a lot of sense now that I looked into it a bit. Wheelspeed on a circletrack car isn't nearly as high as I thought, and that market is so established that the gear ratios are offered in whatever they need.
 
Hodgiemoto said:
School me on why not on the Nylocks. I have them on my shocks, steering heim joints and u-bolts mainly because that's what they come with. Had all of them off a time or 3 and never had any of them loosen up. So maybe there's better and more expensive alternatives but these seem to be holding up just fine.
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The nylon can break down over time. Not always of course, but Stovers are not that much, they're what I used on my traction bar, ram assist, leaf springs, etc.
 
Hodgiemoto said:
School me on why not on the Nylocks. I have them on my shocks, steering heim joints and u-bolts mainly because that's what they come with. Had all of them off a time or 3 and never had any of them loosen up. So maybe there's better and more expensive alternatives but these seem to be holding up just fine.
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Yotota said:
That makes a lot of sense now that I looked into it a bit. Wheelspeed on a circletrack car isn't nearly as high as I thought, and that market is so established that the gear ratios are offered in whatever they need.
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After you install a Ny-Lock once the thread gets cut in the nylon and they don't provide nearly as much running torque once you take them off and reuse them as they did on the first install. Running torque is what keeps the nut from loosening in a high vibration environment, and especially from falling completely off. Additionally this is also why you want minimal thread protrusion past a Ny-lock since the further the nut has to run onto the fastener, the more the Nylon wears out. They are better than nothing, but like a lock washer, they aren't very effective in high vibration environments.

"Stover" nuts (A.K.A. pinch nuts or deformed thread nuts) provide much higher running torque than a Ny-lock and will not degrade when exposed to heat. The also don't lose nearly as much of their running torque when re-used compared to Ny-locks.

Thread lockers are actually one of the most effective bolt retention methods since it physically fills the clearance between the threads and prevents the nut/bolt from shaking loose. the problem is that threadlockers are very susceptable to surface contaminants and are not compatible with some fastener coatings/materials.

High/proper preload is also critical to prevent bolt loosening. Higher preload=more friction which requires more force to back off.


Pitbullcruiser said:
The truck got a new paint job for the 2022 race season.
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Damn, I feel like a bum now, I haven't even finished unloading everything :homer:
 
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