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Race truck 4653

YotaAtieToo said:
Really? You're still running the big ass bolts and not sleeves? Fucking Toyota people :laughing:
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I have always run the greasable M18 bolts with no issues. For this application they get double nutted or cotter pined.

The truck is all back together and sitting much lower than before. The bump pads got lowered and the limit strap mounts were extended to compensate for the additional down travel.
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Ya, I works, but it's not right. Correct sleeves and ~1/2" bolts make the bushings last longer and keep everything tighter. But whatever works for you.

I'm curious about the springs. Are your bumps now set at just past where the springs go flat or?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'm curious about the springs. Are your bumps now set at just past where the springs go flat or?
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At full bump the leaf springs still have some up travel, the shocks aren’t bottomed out, no steering linkage contact and the steering ram doesn’t contact the oil pan. This is the setup we will be running at U4 National. After nationals and prior to KOH I will be modifying the current setup for the new ADS shock/ Sky spring package.

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Well the cotter pins look familiar:beer:

I never ended up putting the time into it, but always wanted to redesign all of my spring/shackle mounts so they had sleeves, as mentioned above. Don't even really need bolts, just some sort of pin and a way to keep it in the bushing - safety nut, cotter pins, wire tie, etc. The factory style sleeved bushing mounts are made to last for 100k+ miles - there's a reason they're engineered the way they are. The aftermarket Toyota stuff is basically just a cheap idea that was sold and resold by every aftermarket company for the past 20 years. The more they wear, the more you have to keep tightening the bolts, and the more they eat themselves alive... Just food for thought.

If sticking with that design, however, I had a lot better luck with the yellow Old Man Emu bushings - they feel more like hard plastic and lasted a lot longer than the basic TG or similar bushings. Eric at Yotamasters recommended them to me, and I used to get them from them. The only bushings I never have had to change out in the last 8 years or so are the front upper shackle bushings - they are delrin and got them from Dave'z Offroad back in the day, but I don't think they ever had them in stock after that. If I had access to a lathe back then, I would have been really tempted to make ALL of the leaf spring and shackle bushings out of delrin and see how they hold up...
 
Thanks for the info guys. In the past we treated the polyurethane bushings as a consumable item that were changed out after races or a wheeling season. We are now running the Sky‘s off road UHMW bushings. I will pull them out after nationals and we can all see what they look like.
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The uhmw should be similar to the delrin.

I wonder at what point you might be stressing the leaf more, the rubber bushings allow the spring to twist on the bolt. I'd be curious to see if the uhmw ones do or not. If they don't the spring it's self has to do the twisting.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
The uhmw should be similar to the delrin.

I wonder at what point you might be stressing the leaf more, the rubber bushings allow the spring to twist on the bolt. I'd be curious to see if the uhmw ones do or not. If they don't the spring it's self has to do the twisting.
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I remember some old thread on Pirate I looked up where someone claimed to have run delrin or uhmw bushings with no negative results, and a bunch of people arguing saying it'd be bad for the springs, but no one running them or trying it out...

The springs twist enough anyway, I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't really make a difference. Sure the factory uses rubber or polyurethane, but they also don't weld the body to the frame:grinpimp: I suppose we can see what Pitbullcruiser's look like when he pulls them, and see if his springs are all twisted up...
 
Fuck sleeves, if you live anywhere with moisture they seize to the bolt no matter how much you grease them.

I have a big piece of delrin I need to get "machined" into a bushing for the frame side up front, curious to see how this works out on this rig!
 
Slander said:
Fuck sleeves, if you live anywhere with moisture they seize to the bolt no matter how much you grease them.

I have a big piece of delrin I need to get "machined" into a bushing for the frame side up front, curious to see how this works out on this rig!
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Well then make your sleeve out of aluminum. Or move:flipoff2:
 
2021 Ultra4 Nationals race recap:
We made it with no issues from CO to OK with enough time to do some pre-running Thursday. Sheared a leaf spring center pin but got it replaced in time for qualifying.
Qualifying Friday went well - truck had no issues but started near the back.
Saturday was a great race day - good weather, awesome course! We didn't have to pit, get out of the truck, or winch all day. The skys offroad leaf springs made a big difference in ride quality. The driver front fender suffered some damage when I hit a tree and we sheared the traction bar bolts at some point. We finished the race in 7th place out of 12.
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Pesky trees.
If it was a cedar, you would have plastered it good.

I'm sad my flight was delayed, would have loved to lend a jand
 
KOH 2022 Race Prep!

New clutch slave cylinder
Recertified fire extinguishers
Recertified window nets
New fire suppression system
Engine coolant carrier

I got my new shocks recently. Started rebuilding the front axle. Discovered a broken trunion bearing eliminator pin on the right side.
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When you set up the knuckle shims with trunion eliminators, what preload do you shoot for?
 
For race prep, do you clean out and inspect the CV's internals?

I've had a few 30spl Longfields develop internal cracks and fail on me at the most unlikely moment.
 
Excellent attention to detail.

I don't have to point out that the top teams do full teardown between races.

Team TrailRig is fully committed to succeed!

Cant wait for the EMC flag to drop!
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
When you set up the knuckle shims with trunion eliminators, what preload do you shoot for?
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I'm also interested to hear what was worked for the Race Truck.

I'm going to dive into this sometime this year and I was advised to shoot for the higher end (20-25lb), drive them for a bit to break in, and then recheck. If it's within range (15-25) good to go, otherwise add more preload.
 
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