Pumpkin Spice Cummins Swapped Square Body

[total newb]

Its not a straight shot but from the face of the bracket to the top of the frame point is 29-3/4 to 30"

30 is snaking of the front cross and under the core support

Check your crossmember instructions and start from there. The ord cross lines up with the rivot holes but you have to drill them out.
2wd cross has the 3 bolts and your cross should bolt to those first. Then position your mount.

 

[xr-nut]

Its not a straight shot but from the face of the bracket to the top of the frame point is 29-3/4 to 30"

30 is snaking of the front cross and under the core support

Check your crossmember instructions and start from there. The ord cross lines up with the rivot holes but you have to drill them out.
2wd cross has the 3 bolts and your cross should bolt to those first. Then position your mount.

The instructions from aganfab assume you start with a 4x4 frame. With the tight fit of the Cummins I'd hate to put those motor mounts even an inch off.

I'll reach out to aganfab and see if they have a measurement

 

[total newb]

Turns out the 2wd frame is shorter than the 4wd frame. The 4wd engine stand are to tall. I can cut them down, found a thread at the old place, so that's easy. Does anyone know how far back from the front of the frame they need to mount?

Get a better 90* pic of the frame here.

On my 4wd frame i want to say the big hole is the brake line pass through and the smaller hole is the mounting bolt for that bracket.

 

[xr-nut]

Get a better 90* pic of the frame here.

On my 4wd frame i want to say the big hole is the brake line pass through and the smaller hole is the mounting bolt for that bracket.

In this pic, the red circle is the rear hole on the 2wd engine bracket would bolt on, yellow being front bolt hole for the 2wd bracket. I have the 4wd bracket held there lined up with the rear hole.

same on this pic, red is the rear holes, yellow front

In this pic, red kind of lines up. those are the rear holes that were from the 2wd engine bracket. When I shorten the bracket I think those two red circles will be close to lining up. The yellow circles on top are the front of the 2wd bracket. the bottom yellow needs a hole drilled to match the 4wd bracket. IF....... the bracket stays that far back? Of does it need to line up with the front set of holes?

 

[xr-nut]

Had another thought. Everyone comments that the cummins is tight against the firewall using the factory mount location. If you move it forward then you have to move the cooling stack forward. What happens if I mount that 4x4 frame stand in between the top two hole? It would likely put the engine mount pretty centered from where the old one was.

 

[FleshEater]

Had another thought. Everyone comments that the cummins is tight against the firewall using the factory mount location. If you move it forward then you have to move the cooling stack forward. What happens if I mount that 4x4 frame stand in between the top two hole? It would likely put the engine mount pretty centered from where the old one was.

I would probably lower the engine and drivetrain in first and see if you can move it forward without a pile of problems to follow.

 

[xr-nut]

I would probably lower the engine and drivetrain in first and see if you can move it forward without a pile of problems to follow.

That makes the most sense, but the cab is off now and Id really like to leave it off until ALL of the engine and peripherals are in and done. Some say I need to move it forward an inch. to clear the firewall. 1 singular inch. must be close or they wouldnt recommend that. Guess maybe Im going to have to put the cab back.

 

[FleshEater]

That makes the most sense, but the cab is off now and Id really like to leave it off until ALL of the engine and peripherals are in and done. Some say I need to move it forward an inch. to clear the firewall. 1 singular inch. must be close or they wouldnt recommend that. Guess maybe Im going to have to put the cab back.

It sucks, but would suck worse to do it and then regret it at the end.

Watch the front diff on the oil pan, too. Not sure if it could be a problem. It would suck to ride around on bumpstops all the time.

 

[xr-nut]

It sucks, but would suck worse to do it and then regret it at the end.

Watch the front diff on the oil pan, too. Not sure if it could be a problem. It would suck to ride around on bumpstops all the time.

Agreed. Front diff should be ok. Pics of the aganfab kit show plenty of room. This has 4'' of lift, that should help also.

I have an extra 2 post now, well as soon as I get the new one installed here. I need it at home to move that cab up and down for this crap. yes, Im spoiled.

 

[KB6Chris]

That makes the most sense, but the cab is off now and Id really like to leave it off until ALL of the engine and peripherals are in and done. Some say I need to move it forward an inch. to clear the firewall. 1 singular inch. must be close or they wouldnt recommend that. Guess maybe Im going to have to put the cab back.

I had no clearance issues at the firewall with the Agan Fab kit keeping the motor mounts in factory location on the frame. I used an NV4500 and still had room to remove the bellhousing bolts and drop the tranny with everything installed in the truck. I've heard its best to keep the engine as tight to the firewall as possible to retain as much room in the front for the cooling arrangement.

Agreed. Front diff should be ok. Pics of the aganfab kit show plenty of room. This has 4'' of lift, that should help also.

I'm running a 4" lift on my K5 and had to extend the factory bump stops 4" also to keep the crossmember from getting into my breather hose and ARB fittings on top of the diff

 

[xr-nut]

Get a better 90* pic of the frame here.

On my 4wd frame i want to say the big hole is the brake line pass through and the smaller hole is the mounting bolt for that bracket.

What do you think about drilling all the holes fresh and mounting it right between the existing 2wd holes?

Theoretically the mount should land in the same spot as the 2wd. I might mount up the 2wd mounts and measure. Typing this out just gave me a good idea. I think

 

[V30crewcab]

I cut the top of my 4x4 mounts down to mount them in a 2wd frame. I'll have to go look and see where i mounted them front to rear.

 

[xr-nut]

I cut the top of my 4x4 mounts down to mount them in a 2wd frame. I'll have to go look and see where i mounted them front to rear.

thats the info Im looking for, thanks

 

[V30crewcab]

I'll have to look tomorrow and see if I can get a measurement. someone came by today and I forgot all about it.

 

[total newb]

I some how missed you pic and everything since last weekend.


So i ran to the garage and the best comparative measurement i can give you is from the sqr tube cavity on the core support for the mount bolt to the front bolt on the top flange of the motor mount. 22.5".

So youll have to put the clip back in place to check that.

I have b52 mounts on the front. Between the 2wd/4wd, mod parts and everything else theres no real good matching points.

 

[Grendel]

I had to redrill, but didn't have height issues. Odd.

 

[xr-nut]

I some how missed you pic and everything since last weekend.


So i ran to the garage and the best comparative measurement i can give you is from the sqr tube cavity on the core support for the mount bolt to the front bolt on the top flange of the motor mount. 22.5".

So youll have to put the clip back in place to check that.

I have b52 mounts on the front. Between the 2wd/4wd, mod parts and everything else theres no real good matching points.

so between the red circles?

I had to redrill, but didn't have height issues. Odd.

Was your frame 4x4?

 

[Grendel]

so between the red circles?

Was your frame 4x4?

No, 2wd, C3500.

 

[xr-nut]

No, 2wd, C3500.

Is it close enough to toss a tape measure on? If so, see pic below. From the front bolts on the new cummins cross member to say the first rivet on that 2wd front cross member, where the brake prop valve is. that cross member is riveted to the frame.

 

[Grendel]

So, that's where we're different. It's not a Cummins cross member, but an ORD tube for a BBC. It uses 4wd engine stands.

I put a Duramax over it with custom engine side mounts, so it's all factory engine spacing. I also did a custom dog house in my IH body.

'73-87 GM 4WD High Clearance Engine Crossmember for Big Block, 6.2L Diesel and Gen III/IV LS GM V8 Applications

Stiffens the frame, increased crossover/high steer clearance, eliminates weak factory crossmember. Requires at least 2" suspension lift for clearance to front differential.

www.offroaddesign.com

 

[Grendel]

Have you thought about contacting my friend Rob Bonney? He's done a shit ton of these:

Chevy to Cummins Swap Components - Rob Bonney Fabrication

robbonneyfab.com

 

[xr-nut]

So, that's where we're different. It's not a Cummins cross member, but an ORD tube for a BBC. It uses 4wd engine stands.

I put a Duramax over it with custom engine side mounts, so it's all factory engine spacing. I also did a custom dog house in my IH body.

'73-87 GM 4WD High Clearance Engine Crossmember for Big Block, 6.2L Diesel and Gen III/IV LS GM V8 Applications

Stiffens the frame, increased crossover/high steer clearance, eliminates weak factory crossmember. Requires at least 2" suspension lift for clearance to front differential.

www.offroaddesign.com

This pic is helpful if.................. is that where they would have been in a factory gas motor 4x4 truck. Looks like its about an inch forward of the rear 2wd top hole.

Have you thought about contacting my friend Rob Bonney? He's done a shit ton of these:

Chevy to Cummins Swap Components - Rob Bonney Fabrication

robbonneyfab.com

"hey rob, i bought a crossmember from your competition but I need your knowledge"

I did drop him an email and name dropped you, thanks. will report back if I hear anything.

Damn Im going all the way around the block to avoid putting that cab back on just to line up this engine.

 

[Grendel]

This pic is helpful if.................. is that where they would have been in a factory gas motor 4x4 truck. Looks like its about an inch forward of the rear 2wd top hole.

It is.

 

[V30crewcab]

my front mount bolt is 16" back from the original rivet on the front crossmember. I actually take the front crossmember loose on a 2wd frame and move it forward a bit to give room for the dampner.

 

[total newb]

so between the red circles?

Yes, mine is a 4wd frame not converted.

No, i didnt have a pic showing the face i measure from.

The vert box piece with the oval holes. Your core support bolt is inside it. I layed the tape down flat on the frame rail so its a straight shot.

 

[xr-nut]

my front mount bolt is 16" back from the original rivet on the front crossmember. I actually take the front crossmember loose on a 2wd frame and move it forward a bit to give room for the dampner.

The aganfab kit has a template to cut out that cross member and add a plate to it. I think it was meant for the 4x4 frame though. I'll get a pic of it when I get home tonight. Thanks for measuring it. Between you and total newb I may just get this done.

 

[xr-nut]

my front mount bolt is 16" back from the original rivet on the front crossmember. I actually take the front crossmember loose on a 2wd frame and move it forward a bit to give room for the dampner.

16 inch on top of the rail?

the cross member reinforcement plate from aganfab. It had instructions to line it up with rivets/holes in the cross member. this cm does not have any of the holes, so I assume its for the 4x4 version swaps.

rear tires/wheels mounted up with 2'' spacers. big ass on the ol truck

 

[xr-nut]

Another project going on now. My oldest is building a "ctsv". We're calling it the TRLPRKV, he might see if he can get that on a personalized tag. car is a 2010 cts crew cab with a 3.6 rwd. that junk is gone and an ls6 has been bolted in. he's figuring out how to make the stand alone gen3 ls stuff work with the car and canbus. Fun little project for him(and me)

 

[KB6Chris]

Here is where my plate ended up on the crossmember if it helps

I ended up shimming the engine up higher to gain some more clearance at the pulley and under the oil pan after this pic was taken

 

[xr-nut]

Here is where my plate ended up on the crossmember if it helps


I ended up shimming the engine up higher to gain some more clearance at the pulley and under the oil pan after this pic was taken

The 2wd cross member is further forward and tilted. that plate is not for it. I made a 2x2 cross member on my k5 to tighten up the front of the frame. I may do that to this truck also.