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Pumpkin Spice Cummins Swapped Square Body

side project going on at work shop. Customers 86 square 305 long bed truck. Pretty solid old truck to start. Sold off the long bed, shortened the frame and had body shop put together a mini tubbed new bed. all new parts up front with 2'' lowering spindles. will drop the rear the same once the quick performance 9'' shows up here. will be on leafs rear with cal-tracs. fixed the shock mount holes with welds and braces. truck got all new brake lines, master and proportioning valve. will re-wire the back half. he bought 10 wide 15 rallys for the rear. Motor is a 427LS that just got done at the machine shop. Transmission is a 4L80 with a 3k stall, sitting here waiting. Just had the seat and headliner refurb'd. Going to be a quick little square. :smokin:

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Blocks are out. Had to move the driver side main eye back 1/2". I should've measured better the first time. More holes to drill.

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total newb

Do you know which of the bushings goes on the inside? In the pic assume the grease zerk goes on the outside of the frame. Does the thinner bushing go inside the frame or out? I think the dodge 60 pad is narrower, right? If so, then out the thin bushing on the outside would move the spring in one half inch.

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Fush are mounted. Passenger side piece of cake. Driver side had a bump in where the brake cable rod was attached. Rosebud heat and a hammer got out popped back flat.

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I reached out to ord about a 4 inch spring pack instead of 6. They said no problem. Waiting on them to get here to make it a roller. Bought 6 tires on fleabay 315/75r16. Should net 35ish tall. Will drag the wheels to work this week and get them cleaned up and painted. What color? Black white or gray?
 
Black, always black.

And if you want nice find your local les schwab and they can usualy get them powder coated for hyper cheap, like $25-40ea.
 
Idr if i posted my truck with 315's in here or not.

I got a bastard pack 52 for 3-5" up front, i pushed my axle forwards and they dont scrub. Iirc the only "lift" in the back (if any) is just the 1" overload spacer as a block.
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total newb said:
Idr if i posted my truck with 315's in here or not.

I got a bastard pack 52 for 3-5" up front, i pushed my axle forwards and they dont scrub. Iirc the only "lift" in the back (if any) is just the 1" overload spacer as a block.
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Yes that truck is part of the inspiration. What spacers are you running in the rear?
 
The ebay ad i bought them from 5 years ago is no good but these are the same thing.

I wana say i used 1.5" and they just clear the studs.

1.5" or 2" is plenty for 315's.
What ever you buy must have the hub centric lip for the outer wheel.

www.ebay.com

2pc 2" Hub Centric Wheel spacers 8x6.5 9/16 Lugs Fits Ram 2500 3500 1994-2012 | eBay

Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5" to 8x6.5". Spacer Type: Hub Centric w/ Hub Lip. Your factory wheel studs may extend past the surface of the wheel spacers. In this case you will need to This spacer set includes open end lug nuts to secure the spacers onto your factory hubs.
www.ebay.com
 
from ord: (guess I shouldve looked here first, and I was wrong. first time today......:laughing:)

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(('93 and older Dodge Dana 60's, have spring pads that are 1/2" wider than GM solid axles, this special bushing kit offset the springs to make everything line up.

Uses larger 1/2" bolt at the back, this will require ORD HD front shackles plates or drilling stock shackles for larger bolt.

For install the thick washer and thick shoulder bushing always face the motor. This helps offsetting to the wider dodge d60 perch.))
 
Got the frame and motor side mounts welded up. On the large cross member, would you weld inside and out the entire way? Stich both sides? Weld the ouside fully and stitch the inside?

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I snagged this little miller machine last year at auction. Body shop retired. I paid a hundred or two less than msrp for the machine but got the bottle, cart and aluminum gun included. Welds really nice. Blew the 20amp 110v breaker twice on the mounts, but itll run 220 also. I was just too lazy to drag the big cord out.

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total newb do you know if the engine frame stands are different between big block and small block? That pair on ebay is 150 bucks delivered, but they''re listed as sbc or diesel. :homer:
 
xr-nut said:
Got the frame and motor side mounts welded up. On the large cross member, would you weld inside and out the entire way? Stich both sides? Weld the ouside fully and stitch the inside?

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Those welds look cold.

Turn the heat up.

If you keep making welds like these, I'd weld the crossmember everywhere
 
xr-nut said:
total newb do you know if the engine frame stands are different between big block and small block? That pair on ebay is 150 bucks delivered, but they''re listed as sbc or diesel. :homer:
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Just the bolt pattern for the clamshell.

The bbc use the center botom bolt hole on the shell. The sbc uses the front bottom hole.

I dropped a 454 inplace of my 350 in my swb no issues.

the bushings are the same, the shells are the same, just riveted in different holes and bolts passing through different holes.

I have both in trucks. Ill try to get you a couple pics shortly.
 
total newb said:
Just the bolt pattern for the clamshell.

The bbc use the center botom bolt hole on the shell. The sbc uses the front bottom hole.

I dropped a 454 inplace of my 350 in my swb no issues.

the bushings are the same, the shells are the same, just riveted in different holes and bolts passing through different holes.

I have both in trucks. Ill try to get you a couple pics shortly.
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I bought the set on ebay. Since the agan kit replaces the clam shell it should be fine. thanks for the info
 
Turns out the 2wd frame is shorter than the 4wd frame. The 4wd engine stand are to tall. I can cut them down, found a thread at the old place, so that's easy. Does anyone know how far back from the front of the frame they need to mount?

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With the dodge diff on the gm chassis, ord sent me offset bushings for the passenger side. It puts the inside shackle on the frame. I think I'll just clearance the frame on that spot.


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