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Pumpkin Spice Cummins Swapped Square Body

xr-nut said:
I found a set of 17s from a 2005? That was so I could put discs on the rear.
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Measure your front hub pilot... You might be lucky. A hub ring for the Chevy rear should work.
 
xr-nut said:
I found a set of 17s from a 2005? That was so I could put discs on the rear.
Click to expand...
I run dodge 17" on my truck.
They use 9/16 studs so youre double fucked.

Dodge hub pilot is 4.77
YOUR dodge is 5/8" studs.
Gm hub pilot is 4.56.

So you can run gm + hub rings or dodge and drill all the holes to 11/16".

I like the 17" for easy of used tires but no, they will not clear the standard dirrectly mounted gm disc brakes.
Gubni/lugnut 4x4 sells a drw kit that puts a spacer between the hub and rotor but has a shitty 1/4 wrap weld on mount.
The gm drums with fresh shoes are a hell of a brake. ;). B52 disc really isnt worth it/the effort.
 
total newb said:
I run dodge 17" on my truck.
They use 9/16 studs so youre double fucked.

Dodge hub pilot is 4.77
YOUR dodge is 5/8" studs.
Gm hub pilot is 4.56.

So you can run gm + hub rings or dodge and drill all the holes to 11/16".

I like the 17" for easy of used tires but no, they will not clear the standard dirrectly mounted gm disc brakes.
Gubni/lugnut 4x4 sells a drw kit that puts a spacer between the hub and rotor but has a shitty 1/4 wrap weld on mount.
The gm drums with fresh shoes are a hell of a brake. ;). B52 disc really isnt worth it/the effort.
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Jesus fuck can this get more confusing. :laughing:

So, lets leave the gm rear in the square. regear it or the 60 in the front to match. Swap the dodge hubs up front for gm hubs and run gm 17s?

that would free up time and effort swapping the dodge and gm rears to keep the dumpbedtrailerthing moving along.
 
I vote keep the Chevy D70HD. My 2nd gen Ram 2500 went through at least 2 D70s. D80 SRW went in when the last D70’s carrier bearings failed.
 
Sorry, i thought you meant dodge 17".

In about 06 gm went from 4.56" to 4.60" should cause any issues but fyi.

Yes, i would grab some gm drw hubs, should be pretty easy.
 
Imho, the Chevy 1ton brakes are impressive enough I wouldn't bother with rear disc unless it meant the jump to class 4-5 stuff and 19.5 or 20" wheels.

otherwise the convenience of being able to keep running 16"s is nice.
 
u2slow said:
Imho, the Chevy 1ton brakes are impressive enough I wouldn't bother with rear disc unless it meant the jump to class 4-5 stuff and 19.5 or 20" wheels.

otherwise the convenience of being able to keep running 16"s is nice.
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Parking brake is much stronger too. Disc brakes are either none or miniature drum inside the rotor hat. Slipping parking brake sucks.
 
The D70HD has been trouble free in my Cummins K30 with a lot of towing at 24k lbs running 245/19.5 tires. The NV4500 not so much trouble free.
 
Got a little done today. Motor combo sitting on the floor. Front diff out. Trip to the sand blaster for the front diff and a trip to my business shop for the motor to get washed. Next step I guess pumpkin spice gets pulled in the shop. Pull all the body off the frame and get to putting it together.

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Oh, above you can see how the dump bed frame was plumbed inside the cab. Good times cutting the floor out of the cab. :laughing:
 
Had a few minutes this morning so I pulled the front cover. 4.10s. I snagged an aam from an 03 ram dually and all 6 of the 17" wheels. I have 5 brand new k02 tires and will buy a 6th, so those 17s are for sure. The aam is 3.73 gear though. Do I go up or down on the regear?

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depends on tire size. I have 3.73 and 315/70/16 (basically 35) and I pull my excavator with it. (23K truck/trailer/machine). It does ok, but would be better with 4.10. just depends on what you do with the truck.
 
V30crewcab said:
depends on tire size. I have 3.73 and 315/70/16 (basically 35) and I pull my excavator with it. (23K truck/trailer/machine). It does ok, but would be better with 4.10. just depends on what you do with the truck.
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I'm thinking 4.10s, I'd like to get up to 35s maybe 37s. It's not going to pull anything, I doubt I'll even put a hitch on it. It'll be a show pony/dd.
 
Holdup :laughing:


What gears are in your tow rig, and do you like it?

I hate cummins trucks geared too deep.

A cummins with 410s and 33s is OK to pull a 15k lb backhoe everyday. Otherwise gear it taller and use the turbo

My 1st cummins truck was a toy, 75 f250 on 35s with 410s, it was a 1st gen cummins and at od. I passed my boss every night on the freeway, he was in the slow lane in a 71 f100 428/c6. The night I swapped 354s in, he calls me and tells me that sounds a hell of a lot better:laughing:

I lost the jump off the line, granted, it was a stock 1st gen engine, and a slushy non lockup trans. 373s would have been perfect.

My next cummins was a f350, 2nd gen 6bt nv4500 with 410s. It had 285s on it when I built it and it was almost undriveable. 37s made it sweet. My regular load was 8-10k and I'd still reach for 6th. Never used 1st to start. 373s weeks have been perfect.

My next truck is 2nd gen 6bt with a zf6. I'm going to run 3.31 super duty axles and 35s. I'll spend a little money on a ball bearing turbo for quicker spool up.

I had a 2nd gen 6bt nv4500 4wd truck with 410s and 285s that was undriveable on the freeway. Doing 68 in the slow lane for 2 hours sucks balls


Also, are you in love with the dually? Those trucks single wheel on 35s or 37s look sweet.... you could easily trade that bed for a clean srw
 
Projectjunkie said:
Holdup :laughing:
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4.10 make more sense for the OP, imho.

It’s a ‘toy truck’. Just look at his other toys in the background :lmao: and with at least 35” tires planned.

My truck have 6bta, nv4500 with 3.55 in axles rolling on 315/70R17 (~34”). I can hardly take off in 2nd gear when empty. I had wished I have more gearing at >20,000lbs GCW when taking off from a stop uphill (power isn’t an issue, it become a game of balance between riding the clutch and tire slippage). 4.10 will help OP’s getrag trans to survive longer too.
 
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Here's the thing... if you 'need' all the payload capacity the dually setup affords, then I don't want to compromise that with spacers or sidewall rubbing to fit big tires on the back. So its 31" maaaaybe 33" rubber, tops; not ruling out 19.5's.

I'm on the fence with my '93 on 35's and 3.54. (2nd gear starts are fine when empty tho.) I kind of want to swap back to 33's for heavy chores. I also know 4.10 will make me want 37's for when I run light.
 
Well after a month of staying out the shop with my finger issues, i got back out there last weekend. Pulled the front clip and snagged the big block and 465 out. Had a moment of flip flopping and considered leaving it 2wd with the cummins and putting it in the weeds. I already have two lowered trucks, I really dont need another one. :laughing: Maybe next weekend get the rest of the body pulled from the frame start stripping the frame down. At this time I think I will stick with the 3.73 gears. It will not be pulling anything and surely it has enough torque to pull some bigger tires.

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Suspension goodies from ORD came on the brown bus today. Made up my mind, its going up in the air and turning 4x4. Plan is 6'' lift springs from ord up front, custom built for a "driver" with the cummins weight. Utilize the oe springs in the rear and flip the shackle with blocks. bed is off, cab will come off after christmas break then the frame is off to get blasted. Once back I'll start putting it together. reached out to the member who snagged the dump bed project, may swap him the gm diff for the dodge diff so I can keep the gearing the same and run the dodge wheels. I dont want to create work for him though.

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6" seems like a lot of lift to run 35's.

If shackle flipping the rear, move the fwd hangers down too. Upsetting the levelness of the spring brings the suck for doing heavy stuff. Look at the spring attitude of a 3rdgen dodge; thats how to arrange a compression shackle.
 
u2slow said:
6" seems like a lot of lift to run 35's.

If shackle flipping the rear, move the fwd hangers down too. Upsetting the levelness of the spring brings the suck for doing heavy stuff. Look at the spring attitude of a 3rdgen dodge; thats how to arrange a compression shackle.
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Im going to run 37's now. and yes, I got the new front hangers too.(front of the rear leaf)

and for the 37thteenth time, this truck will not have a hitch on it. its going to be a show pony mall crawler. :laughing:
 
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Didnt see it but what are you doing for the front brackets?

I have frnt/rear brackets and crossmember (no motor mount brackets) i wont need.
 
total newb said:
Didnt see it but what are you doing for the front brackets?

I have frnt/rear brackets and crossmember (no motor mount brackets) i wont need.
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I grabbed everything from ord.

I bought the cummins swap cross member and motor mounts from agan fabworks. Havent even opened the box yet, have no idea if it is any good.
 
I echo dropping the rear spring hangers at the front of the spring.

Same chassis, same springs, same shackle flip.

No blocks, no spring wrap :)

Much different front suspension and axles... and different crew cab body.
 

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I'm with project junky here, unless towing heavy, run the 3.73s.

4.10s with an older 5 speed manual that has a .77 or 75 od and a diesel sucks on the highway. Even with a more Rev happy 7.3 and 34s, 4.10s was ridiculous on the highway. Even towing, going to 3.54s just meant 4th was a sweet spot for certain grades, and 3rd gear had more mph. The only time it sucked was taking off, but in reality, it's not that noticeable in 1st. Although if you aren't planning on much highway, and more around town 4.10s may be fine or even preferred.

3.73s would probably be perfect. Especially since it's already there and could be test driven before making a final decision. My Cummins swap has 3.54 rear and 4.10 front :homer: I plan to drive it before deciding what to do.
 
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