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Panzers: I break rocks thread

ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Honestly new stuff is kinda a pain. It needs to have 4-5 winters under its belt to get the shit dialed in so it flat out works. That way you put all the access doors in, make conveyors roll both directions, figure out how the floater rocks get in the tail pulleys ect.
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Just tell them that shit now. :laughing:

ThePanzerFuhrer said:
My vehicles have clutches so you can do some dodgy shit when you get a stuck. I can rock the truck with some good timing clutch work, decrease the speed to an idle so it will grab...
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Fixt it for me.

ThePanzerFuhrer said:
This is what bulldogs look like when they stay up to watch you work out the patio window all night.
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I've wondered about you living on property, specifically about the noise and whatnot. I suppose it can be annoying but also you can hear that money driving by. :smokin:
 
Penetrode Offroad said:
I've wondered about you living on property, specifically about the noise and whatnot. I suppose it can be annoying but also you can hear that money driving by. :smokin:
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At $200-400 a load driving by the noise is nothing. Sold 5k of material during my nap this morning :smokin:


My bed room is probably 40’ away from the driveway of the pit entrance. Only thing we have to be careful with is the kids and the bulldog so no one gets hit. Trucks start moving at 6 and go till 6-7 some nights.

IMG_0341.jpeg
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Question time for speed bump or other mine guys.

What’s the secret to keeping a pump packing working.

It seems like I’m forever changing them on my slurry pump. I think there are 5 of these in there at a time. I do have a clear water port I add water too to keep the sand away from the packing. Maybe my added water is too low of pressure?

IMG_0340.jpeg


The black packing seemed to work the best. My stupid BIl bought on of those electric truck bugging things from a mine up north. Had multiple spools of packing on it that came
With. Just about got it all used up now.
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Good clean high pressure water is how ours are setup. Is it a diesel or electric pump? Most of our gland water pumps are groundfos inline multi stages. Usually 1 gland water pump per slurry pump (we should have a single gland water pump feeding a dozen pumps though our system is dumb). I've never looked at a curve for them or paid attention to how much HP they are though could, what size pump are you loosing packing on?

Are you repacking from the back side?

This is my favorite tool for packing from the back side, half the time I don't use a fucking curly q, just this thing. The picture kinda sucks, the tip looks almost like the ace of spades, find the split and jab it in.

I_mt32.jpg


If I do pull out a curly q all mine are ribbed for a pry bar which makes it 10 times easier on the fingers. If you are fighting packing from the back side these are well worth the couple extra bucks. CS Osborne makes them.

1004.gif
 
barrelroll said:
Good clean high pressure water is how ours are setup. Is it a diesel or electric pump? Most of our gland water pumps are groundfos inline multi stages. Usually 1 gland water pump per slurry pump (we should have a single gland water pump feeding a dozen pumps though our system is dumb). I've never looked at a curve for them or paid attention to how much HP they are though could, what size pump are you loosing packing on?

Are you repacking from the back side?

This is my favorite tool for packing from the back side, half the time I don't use a fucking curly q, just this thing. The picture kinda sucks, the tip looks almost like the ace of spades, find the split and jab it in.

I_mt32.jpg


If I do pull out a curly q all mine are ribbed for a pry bar which makes it 10 times easier on the fingers. If you are fighting packing from the back side these are well worth the couple extra bucks. CS Osborne makes them.

1004.gif
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My pump is a 60hp 8x6. I feed the gland water straight from a 2hp well pump. The gland is accessed from the back side. I’m not sure if I’m using the right size packing. 1/2” fits in decent, however when I pull the old stuff out it measures 5/8” squished. When I put the new stuff in I try to tighten it up until there is just a small drip of clear water comming out.

I may have to try and slow the pump down some as it seems to be surging more than normal.
 
[486] said:
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Question time for speed bump or other mine guys.

What’s the secret to keeping a pump packing working.

It seems like I’m forever changing them on my slurry pump. I think there are 5 of these in there at a time. I do have a clear water port I add water too to keep the sand away from the packing. Maybe my added water is too low of pressure?

IMG_0340.jpeg


The black packing seemed to work the best. My stupid BIl bought on of those electric truck bugging things from a mine up north. Had multiple spools of packing on it that came
With. Just about got it all used up now.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Or GIW pumps have a diverter which seems to help keep the packing alive amazingly well. We probably change packing about once per pump rebuild.

PXL_20240920_123228544.jpg

The black stuff is either graphite or carbon. The graphite supposedly can be run dry. We run it in non wet pump applications. The GIW manual says use grease and Tufpak 400 if you can't get water in.


[486] said:
imagine that big of a motor wouldn't have a drive on it but instead just a simple soft-start?
If it's got a vfd, jog and reverse might just be a bit of programming away
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Our rule of thumb is over 200 HP 480V is a soft starter and over 300 HP is 4160V. All of our crusher motors are non-soft starter 400 HP 4160v motors.

With a drive you can do quite a bit and not blow up the motor. Without one you sometimes end up making $50k emergency motor purchases.

If you want to go old school you can always have a clutch and an aux drive or really really old school and a pull start assist like a phase converter. They used to lots of interesting things to start big motors that had to start under load.
 
I'm headed in for a Mill down day and am rebuilding a couple 4x3 slurry pumps with oem speced packing. Every pump I've repacked takes some force to get packing in. I'll grab some measurements on the packing to figure out how much squish there is on the packing. We run a little more than a drip on some pumps, if you run them too tight it burns up quickly. Are you using lube to install the packing?
 
speed bump said:
If you want to go old school you can always have a clutch and an aux drive or really really old school and a pull start assist like a phase converter. They used to lots of interesting things to start big motors that had to start under load.
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I remember seeing video of an old motor where the armature was on bearings and slip rings with a brake
Start the motor and the rotor stays stationary but the whole thing starts spinning, then apply the brake while watching the amp draw
 
barrelroll said:
I'm headed in for a Mill down day and am rebuilding a couple 4x3 slurry pumps with oem speced packing. Every pump I've repacked takes some force to get packing in. I'll grab some measurements on the packing to figure out how much squish there is on the packing. We run a little more than a drip on some pumps, if you run them too tight it burns up quickly. Are you using lube to install the packing?
Click to expand...
This is possibly my problem the packing goes in really easy. I probably should be using 5/8 square not 1/2”

I haven’t been greasing them up either. My pump is from the 60’a or 60’s a Denver slr rubber lined pump.

It only has a lantern ring and none of that fancy stuff to protect the gland. I’m gonna have to update soon as metso is gonna stop supporting them for parts. Stupid because they want 40-50k for a new replacement :homer:

5mins ago :lmao::homer:
IMG_0344.jpeg
 
[486] said:
I remember seeing video of an old motor where the armature was on bearings and slip rings with a brake
Start the motor and the rotor stays stationary but the whole thing starts spinning, then apply the brake while watching the amp draw
Click to expand...
I've seen that one too;
Synchronous motors don't have much torque until the rpm matches the frequency of the electro magnets. This one clutches the housing instead of the load.

 
1oddtech said:
I'm sure Sandvik has a way to clear the jaws if they get jammed
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lol I bet they don’t. Maybe they will allow it to spin backwards? :homer:

[486] said:
Explosives!

14.5x114mm rifles!

little brown people with less papers than pneumatic rivet busters!
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lol all the crushing manuals have a warning that states do not use explosives to clear a jam:lmao:
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
lol I bet they don’t. Maybe they will allow it to spin backwards? :homer:


lol all the crushing manuals have a warning that states do not use explosives to clear a jam:lmao:
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I'll have to find the Missouri-rogers manual I have that talks about breaking boulders with explosives in the feed throat, I know we used to do it 1-2x per year.

Generally you either get a grabber arm or a hammer breaker if you clear lots of oversize though
 
I'd imagine that a loaded up jaw getting a shock load from explosives would move metal every time
the metal's already loaded up hard, just needs the hammer blow to set it into place
 
[486] said:
I'd imagine that a loaded up jaw getting a shock load from explosives would move metal every time
the metal's already loaded up hard, just needs the hammer blow to set it into place
Click to expand...

Generally you just use a booster. Pick where you think you can split it enough to do something with the rock and go. The biggest reason I could see not want to blast in a jaw is jamming it full of material while it's not running.
 
speed bump said:
Generally you just use a booster. Pick where you think you can split it enough to do something with the rock and go. The biggest reason I could see not want to blast in a jaw is jamming it full of material while it's not running.
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That’s where the engine drive and clutch come in handy. If you can get the flywheels to spin even a 1” or 2” it will crush the rock enough to get it going again.
 
did you ever get anywhere with the carbide embedding welding?

got me thinking of it..
had 3 50t ex bucket repairs, crushing contractor, around 40hrs into each. lots of wear items and some cracks.
previous repair guy put chocky bars between the teeth, they all failed. and I think they caused the cracking that starts between the chocky bar and tooth on half.

what's the typical wear protection you do on your ex buckets now?

also he picked up 2 new esco buckets, for the 50t ex's, paid $38k ea, I thought that was a pretty good deal.



www.thefabricator.com

Hardfacing alloy made for GMAW carbide embedding

Postle Industries has introduced Postalloy® PS98 hardfacing alloy to be used as a matrix welding wire for tungsten carbide embedding, also known as GMAW carbide
www.thefabricator.com www.thefabricator.com

DURAMAX Tungsten Carbide Embedding System - Hardface Technologies

www.hardfacetechnologies.com www.hardfacetechnologies.com


this is the new esco, used a few days to rub the paint off. all I did was put 20lbs of hard facing on it.
(priced out the weld on wear pieces between the teeth, thinking to use them on the other buckets... nope, not for $600 ea.:eek:. I need to find a good place to order wear parts, so far any 'parts' for buckets have been supplied by the customer. some of the prices I hear are wild.
20240904_122231.jpg
 
tracyb said:
did you ever get anywhere with the carbide embedding welding?

got me thinking of it..
had 3 50t ex bucket repairs, crushing contractor, around 40hrs into each. lots of wear items and some cracks.
previous repair guy put chocky bars between the teeth, they all failed. and I think they caused the cracking that starts between the chocky bar and tooth on half.

what's the typical wear protection you do on your ex buckets now?

also he picked up 2 new esco buckets, for the 50t ex's, paid $38k ea, I thought that was a pretty good deal.



www.thefabricator.com

Hardfacing alloy made for GMAW carbide embedding

Postle Industries has introduced Postalloy® PS98 hardfacing alloy to be used as a matrix welding wire for tungsten carbide embedding, also known as GMAW carbide
www.thefabricator.com www.thefabricator.com

DURAMAX Tungsten Carbide Embedding System - Hardface Technologies

www.hardfacetechnologies.com www.hardfacetechnologies.com


this is the new esco, used a few days to rub the paint off. all I did was put 20lbs of hard facing on it.
(priced out the weld on wear pieces between the teeth, thinking to use them on the other buckets... nope, not for $600 ea.:eek:. I need to find a good place to order wear parts, so far any 'parts' for buckets have been supplied by the customer. some of the prices I hear are wild.
20240904_122231.jpg
Click to expand...
old job got pretty much everything from .
This place
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
This is possibly my problem the packing goes in really easy. I probably should be using 5/8 square not 1/2”

I haven’t been greasing them up either. My pump is from the 60’a or 60’s a Denver slr rubber lined pump.

It only has a lantern ring and none of that fancy stuff to protect the gland. I’m gonna have to update soon as metso is gonna stop supporting them for parts. Stupid because they want 40-50k for a new replacement :homer:

5mins ago :lmao::homer:
IMG_0344.jpeg
Click to expand...

That looks about normal for some pumps around here. I ended up opening up 2 cans of worms today and didn't get out the calipers to measure a stuffing box, sleeve, and packing. I've seen people assemble pumps with packing dry and with grease. The only answer I've gotten that really makes sense from a pump rep, he said do not use a petroleum product like grease. It will fill in all the tiny voids in the packing and not allow for cooling water flow. They may sell packing install lube or you can use dish soap. I assemble packing dry. I'm thinking your packing is too small. Repacking a pump with 5/8" packing from the back side (not pulling the stuffing box) sucks, if it's an easy job it's probably the wrong size packing. Your fingers are worn our from pushing the packing in and you should need a curly q puller to get it out half the time because it's in there so tight you can't get a pick to move it.

First can of worms was rebuilding the second pump on my list for the day, go to pull the impeller and notice the belts are sloppy loose. Call the boss for some 5vx580's, we don't have any on site and he can't find where we've ever ordered them, ok grab me some 600's there's plenty of in the adjusters. Yep, 1 problem they are covered in concentrate and aren't even thinking about moving, fight them for an hour. Notice the pump we are supposed to install 2 years ago for a gland water system upgrade has the right studs and they don't look crusty. Cut the studs off my pump and rob Peter to pay Paul. This pump is still torn apart and one of my new guys is going on 2 1/2 hours trying to laser align a pump and motor he installed (coupler connection instead of belts) and beyond frustrated. Ok, give me 1/2 an hour to button up this pump and I'll give you a hand, hence why I didn't get out the calipers when rebuilding the 2nd stuffing box.

Go over to help the guy with an alignment. Did you check soft foot? Nope. Go to check soft foot, add shims, go around in circles and make 0 progress. This thing has major soft foot issues. I know he cleaned the base. Did you clean the motor feet? Nope. We'll let's lift it up and check them, they aren't anywhere near close to flat. Start tapping the chunks of scale/ rust off with a ball peen, large chunks start falling off. I just opened up can #2, chunks of motor foot are coming off and they aren't coming off evenly, the feet are hilly. Check the computer, yep we have a motor in the warehouse, let's just replace it and be done with it instead of battling alignment and vibration till something dies and shuts down the mill. It's after 8pm and they are closed. Go to grab my phone to call the warehouse guy, of course my phone is mid update. Finally get him out of bed. Now how the hell do we get the old motor out and the new one in, the crane can't reach, there's nowhere good to rig, you can to shimmy behind some receiver tanks or climb over another pump skid to get to the pump that needs a motor though the motor won't fit through the shimmy path. Some how shove it through a hole in the iron work with the fork lift and some sketchy come along work later it's finally in it's hole. Day shift guy is exhausted and it's 10PM, he's out, understandable. Night shift has 2 newer guys who have never done a laser alignment with our equipment. 11:30PM I finally went down the hill with .006" total misalignment, not prefect though good enough for the circumstances and a hell of a lot closer then it was as found before the pump replacement.

In think we still have an open position if this sound like fun to anyone.
 
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