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New Ford Duallys are 6+ months out?

Gbkeith said:
It may be getting a little late in the model year for ordering one, but it’s really the only way to go. Unless you’re looking for a Lariat Tremor or one of the other three configurations they keep on the lots.
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XL with the 6.8, Lariat, Lariat Tremor, Platinum or King Ranch.

That’s pretty much it.

I won’t order anything just yet. Everyone has 24s on the lots, with 25s starting to roll in. Planning to keep watching until I find something that checks the boxes.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I can't see the big fuss over rear end gears with the 10 speed. I get that it will still make a difference, but 4.61 1st gear should get you moving with any rear end gear.
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I’m driving a 6.8 truck with 3.31 gears and I’m telling you it matters a lot. That low first gear still feels like crap with those stupid tall axle gears.
 
JR4X said:
I’m driving a 6.8 truck with 3.31 gears and I’m telling you it matters a lot. That low first gear still feels like crap with those stupid tall axle gears.
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You'd think someone who jerks off about towing 20k up a mountain or whatever it was would be telling the barely laden work truck guy that but nope. :laughing:

As an aside, I wish it was easier to come by off idle torque figures. I crunched a bunch of numbers regarding gear ratios, low range vs high range, the effective force at the tire for various combos old and new but I kinda hit a wall when I got to the engines and it's impossible to compare a new diesel wonton to a turbo V6 half ton to a tree-fiddy 5+2 grain truck to a Ford Ranger to a modern unibody SUV without having good figures for engine torque around 2k or so.
 
All of the CP4 issues were my main factor in trading my 22 6.7 for the 7.3.
I've had it a year now and put 23k on it. Still totally happy with it. When I tow, it's either a 9k camper or my 10k crawler/GN combo. It kicks down a couple more gears on inclines. But gets the job done just fine. I'd get one again w/o question.
Ford did something with the seats between 22 and 23. The 23s are so much more comfortable on long trips. The 22 wasn't bad at all. But the 23 is just that much better.
Aside from the shitty Bridgestones that came on it, I love the truck.
 
JTreadway said:
All of the CP4 issues were my main factor in trading my 22 6.7 for the 7.3.
I've had it a year now and put 23k on it. Still totally happy with it. When I tow, it's either a 9k camper or my 10k crawler/GN combo. It kicks down a couple more gears on inclines. But gets the job done just fine. I'd get one again w/o question.
Ford did something with the seats between 22 and 23. The 23s are so much more comfortable on long trips. The 22 wasn't bad at all. But the 23 is just that much better.
Aside from the shitty Bridgestones that came on it, I love the truck.
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The Bridgestones do suck a lot.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I can't see the big fuss over rear end gears with the 10 speed. I get that it will still make a difference, but 4.61 1st gear should get you moving with any rear end gear.
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I hate to agree with you...

But after putting about 3k towing miles on my 7.3/4.30, I think 3.73 is just fine for anything under 10k lbs. 4.30 is nice for acceleration with weight, but I do often wish there was an extra gear when empty. I think 4.10 w/ a true 35" tire would be perfect.
 
rockota said:
I hate to agree with you...

But after putting about 3k towing miles on my 7.3/4.30, I think 3.73 is just fine for anything under 10k lbs. 4.30 is nice for acceleration with weight, but I do often wish there was an extra gear when empty. I think 4.10 w/ a true 35" tire would be perfect.
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Ya, like I said, I get it, but if you're not always above 7k feet like JR4X or always towing, I can't see it being that big of a deal. gunracer1 pulls heavy stuff with his and 3.xx gears.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
As bad as the goodyears?
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The Goodyears that came on my 2017 were decent tires. These Bridgestones suck worse in mud and I’ve already had to use my spare three times. That could just be bad luck, but in 320,000 miles that’s almost how many times I had to use a spare on my last truck.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Ya, like I said, I get it, but if you're not always above 7k feet like JR4X or always towing, I can't see it being that big of a deal. gunracer1 pulls heavy stuff with his and 3.xx gears.
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On 31" dually tires with 3.73 currently stock for the 7.3 (dually or single).

Compare to 33-34" stock SRW and effective ratios range from 3.8 to 4.1 and go past 4.1 with 35s (aka Tremor 4.30s)
 
Gbkeith said:
The Goodyears that came on my 2017 were decent tires. These Bridgestones suck worse in mud and I’ve already had to use my spare three times. That could just be bad luck, but in 320,000 miles that’s almost how many times I had to use a spare on my last truck.
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You’ve had a good run. Between my truck and trailer, I’ve been through 5 tires this year.

The stock Bridgestones that came on my current Chevy also sucked. They were pretty much smooth by 20k.
 
The factory goodyears on my 2020 have three patches that i know about in them in my 11,000 miles of ownership, trying like hell to get them to 50k, im about 4 k shy.

I haven't had that many patches In the last 10 years between myself and wife both.
 
Since we are on the topic of tires now my new Toyo M655's are sitting at the tire shop now "aging" while I put a few more miles on the Continentals before winter. Currently sitting at 43k miles and the outer edges of fronts are almost bald.
 
And regarding gearing I've said it before 4.61 first gear is useless with 4.30 gears and 225/70R19.5 tires with the 6.7 not towing
 
1oddtech said:
Since we are on the topic of tires now my new Toyo M655's are sitting at the tire shop now "aging" while I put a few more miles on the Continentals before winter. Currently sitting at 43k miles and the outer edges of fronts are almost bald.
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Work made me switch from Cooper ST pro MT’s to Firestone destination MT’s. Not loving them so far. They are not stable on pavement and dirt, way more swimmy and drift around a lot compared to the old Coopers I’m used to
 
I know on 19.5 rims new tires are always squirmy for the first thousand miles or so. I haven't bought any new tires with a decent sidewall in a while.
 
1oddtech said:
And regarding gearing I've said it before 4.61 first gear is useless with 4.30 gears and 225/70R19.5 tires with the 6.7 not towing
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Diesels also shift to the next gear at 2200 ~ 2500 rpm under normal conditions. The gassers are meant to run out to 5000 rpm in tow haul. My stupid work truck will still go 30 mph in 1st gear. What I need in gasser work truck. Is a truck that is not mechanically capable of doing over 15 mph in 1st. 10th is absolutely useless with a gasser and 3.31 gears
 
JR4X said:
What I need in gasser work truck. Is a truck that is not mechanically capable of doing over 15 mph in 1st.
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You need to get your hands on something like Skipped_Link's old axles with the 2:1 axletech spider gear style planetary reduction wheel ends. Remove the speed limiter and enjoy being gear limited in the 80s instead of being software limited to the low 100s


JR4X said:
10th is absolutely useless with a gasser and 3.31 gears
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"but muh mpgss at 90mph" :laughing:
 
JR4X said:
Diesels also shift to the next gear at 2200 ~ 2500 rpm under normal conditions. The gassers are meant to run out to 5000 rpm in tow haul. My stupid work truck will still go 30 mph in 1st gear. What I need in gasser work truck. Is a truck that is not mechanically capable of doing over 15 mph in 1st. 10th is absolutely useless with a gasser and 3.31 gears
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Hubs out, low range
 
Steve300xcw said:
Hubs out, low range
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Thanks to dorque management that doesn’t work either. These new trucks with drive by wire have less hold back in low range than high range. The dam things will accelerate down hill in low and try to over ride the brakes. I drive up and down a hill every day that’s so rough and so steep I want the truck to hold itself back to 10 mph or less. In low it will rev itself up to 5 or 6 thousand rpm and it goes faster than 10 mph in low also.

Get the wheels bouncing off the ground and there isn’t a setting you can put it in that the ABS won’t disable the brakes when you need them most.
 
Steve300xcw said:
Hubs out, low range
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Have I got news for you.
IMG_3584.jpeg
 
JR4X said:
Thanks to dorque management that doesn’t work either. These new trucks with drive by wire have less hold back in low range than high range. The dam things will accelerate down hill in low and try to over ride the brakes. I drive up and down a hill every day that’s so rough and so steep I want the truck to hold itself back to 10 mph or less. In low it will rev itself up to 5 or 6 thousand rpm and it goes faster than 10 mph in low also.

Get the wheels bouncing off the ground and there isn’t a setting you can put it in that the ABS won’t disable the brakes when you need them most.
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Do you have hill descent mode?

I had it on my '18 but not on my '22 cause I didn't get fx4, never used it so can't comment how it works but you are supposed to be able to set a hill speed you'd like to maintain
 
CarterKraft said:
Do you have hill descent mode?

I had it on my '18 but not on my '22 cause I didn't get fx4, never used it so can't comment how it works but you are supposed to be able to set a hill speed you'd like to maintain
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I had it. It worked when I used it. Only had the truck less than a year though. It just applies the brakes for you is all it does. I didn't use it anywhere like what jr4x is describing I don't think though. I used it on job sites going down a slope or scraper cut off a hill.
 
CarterKraft said:
Do you have hill descent mode?

I had it on my '18 but not on my '22 cause I didn't get fx4, never used it so can't comment how it works but you are supposed to be able to set a hill speed you'd like to maintain
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Yes. And it only works at 18 mph and down. You know how it does it? By applying the brakes for you. So it’s riding the brakes with extra steps. The main reason I want the truck to hold itself back is to not trash the brakes every 5 10 or 11 thousand miles. I use it that down hill assist every day to get down the descents I have to go down. I used to pride myself on getting over 100K miles on the factory brake pads & rotors. In the last 5 years 25K is the best I’ve got on my work truck’s brakes. They always seem to go metal to metal on a holiday, or a long muddy weekend
 
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