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New Ford Duallys are 6+ months out?

Southernfriedcj8 said:
Does a travel trailer get you out of having to have a CDL?

DRW truck 14k GVWR and any TT over 12k GVWR will put you over 26k.

CK, you derated your truck to 10k. What if you get stopped and the steer and rear are over 10k? isn't that a $1k-$2k ticket?

Do ya'll stop at weigh stations (I don't).
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A towed RV doesn't get you out a Class A, but you don't have to have a Commercial Drivers License.

And you are correct, if I got pulled over I would have been for sure over weight. Like I said all I had to try was pulling a :homer:.
I have no illusions that would work but I scream RV'er, kids/toys/dogs etc. I just hoped for the best...

No weigh stations for me, that is for commercial motor vehicles...
 
CarterKraft said:
A towed RV doesn't get you out a Class A, but you don't have to have a Commercial Drivers License.

And you are correct, if I got pulled over I would have been for sure over weight. Like I said all I had to try was pulling a :homer:.
I have no illusions that would work but I scream RV'er, kids/toys/dogs etc. I just hoped for the best...

No weigh stations for me, that is for commercial motor vehicles...
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Classes of Driver Licenses | Department of Public Safety

www.dps.texas.gov www.dps.texas.gov

These are non commercial classes
ClassificationDescription
Class A
Authorizes an individual to drive:

  1. A single vehicle with a GVWR of 26,001 pounds or more
  3. A combination of vehicles with a GCWR of 26,001 pounds or more provided the GVWR of the vehicle(s) towed is in excess of 10,000 pounds
  5. Any Class B or C vehicle
Class B
Authorizes an individual to drive:

  1. Single vehicle with a GVWR of 26,001 pounds or more
  3. Single vehicle with a GVWR of 26,001 pounds or more that is towing a vehicle with a GVWR that does not exceed 10,000 pounds or a farm trailer with a GVWR that does not exceed 20,000 pounds
  5. A bus with a seating capacity of 24 passengers or more including the driver
  7. Any Class C vehicle
Class C
Authorizes an individual to drive:

  1. Single vehicle or combination of vehicles that are not included in Class A or B
  3. Single vehicle with a GVWR of less than 26,001 pounds towing a farm trailer with a GVWR that does not exceed 20,000 pounds
  5. Designed to transport 23 or less passengers including the driver
    Note: Vehicles rated for the transport of 16-23 passengers including the driver require a Class C CDL, unless exempt
  7. An autocycle.
Class M
Authorizes an individual to drive a motorcycle.
 
CarterKraft said:
I never stopped in my F-750, still don't in my 5500.

My F-750 was de-rated to 26k and wasn't a "truck".
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The trick in other states is to pull into the left lane just before the rolling scales, go by them and then get back in the right lane before the weigh station and pass it like nothing is going on. Works for me every time. :smokin:
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
The trick in other states is to pull into the left lane just before the rolling scales, go by them and then get back in the right lane before the weigh station and pass it like nothing is going on. Works for me every time. :smokin:
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Around here they don't do rolling scales. They just have an overhead detector that'll register a large truck but not a car. Same trick here though. They only put the detectors over the lanes trucks are "supposed" to be in.
 
CarterKraft said:
A towed RV doesn't get you out a Class A, but you don't have to have a Commercial Drivers License.
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I had a non CDL Class A (tractor trailer/air brakes/ect) from my days on the fire department.

Last time I renewed my license, they changed it to a Class E (without telling me).
A Non-Commercial Class E & F is available for anyone who intends to operate a vehicle:

  • With GVWR over 26,001 lbs. and/or towing over 10,000 lbs for non-commercial use only
There are no endorsements for non-commercial Class E or F driver's licenses.
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CarterKraft said:
As a statement of

I might be showing my ass here...
Other than "for fun" transmission seems like one of the tougher parts of the truck.
I am sure they blow up but at the size of the 6R140 components they should be near bulletproof at stockish 400hp power levels.
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Ive read a decent amount of complaints on the 10sp

and honestly, seeing how often it jumps between gears, I dont see it being rock solid long term.

Then again youll probably be able to find a factory trans for a couple grand when you need

But putting it in a gear and staying in that gear no matter what = priceless.
 
fordguy said:
But putting it in a gear and staying in that gear no matter what = priceless.
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Even more priceless when you do the kind of things they do with trucks south of the border. Which is probably part of why they offer it there. :laughing:
 
fordguy said:
Ive read a decent amount of complaints on the 10sp

and honestly, seeing how often it jumps between gears, I dont see it being rock solid long term.

Then again youll probably be able to find a factory trans for a couple grand when you need

But putting it in a gear and staying in that gear no matter what = priceless.
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I'm just curious as to how well those old manual transmissions hold up to 1200 lb ft at 1600 rpm?
 
I'm driving a brand new F150 with a 10sp right now and I'm not impressed. Hunts for gears constantly, makes a weird whining noise and is jerky as fuck. Not impressed at all and I don't get the warm fuzzy feeling that it would last the lifetime of the truck.
 
fordguy said:
Ive read a decent amount of complaints on the 10sp

and honestly, seeing how often it jumps between gears, I dont see it being rock solid long term.

Then again youll probably be able to find a factory trans for a couple grand when you need

But putting it in a gear and staying in that gear no matter what = priceless.
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We used to change out spicer 7 speeds every 3-4 years in our 650-750's I don't think because they are mechanical selected makes them superior by default.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I'm driving a brand new F150 with a 10sp right now and I'm not impressed. Hunts for gears constantly, makes a weird whining noise and is jerky as fuck. Not impressed at all and I don't get the warm fuzzy feeling that it would last the lifetime of the truck.
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I am too, ecoboost 10 speed, it does do some weird shifting shit my dually doesn't do.
 
CarterKraft said:
We used to change out spicer 7 speeds every 3-4 years in our 650-750's I don't think because they are mechanical selected makes them superior by default.
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lol, those transmissions are pieces of shit, very bad example. Our Eaton synchronized have been awesome.
 
Southernfriedcj8 said:
The transmission behind my 7.3 gasser was awesome towing 17k back from NE. Best part of the truck.
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But would you know if it wasn't? Remember back when all the cool kids were running 400-500hp PSDs and 5.9s? They didn't care that they only had four speeds to work with because they had so much power on tap at any given RPM it didn't really matter. Those are the kind of power levels stock trucks are getting close to these days.

SLOWPOKE693 said:
Well that explains it. If GM is involved in any way it's definitely a piece of shit built with the finest low bid Mexican parts.
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Yup
The pre-programmed lockup slip percentage dampens out low-speed torque fluctuations and permits the engine to run at lower rpm levels
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Read: probably gonna eat the TC clutch in short order
The converter clutch has been move to the front of the converter instead on the back cover. It is no longer flat; it’s now curved to the contour of the impeller. This will make it quite interesting for the converter rebuilder to not only bond the clutch material to the turbine, but also machine the clutch-apply surface area of the impeller
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Read: nobody will invest in this expensive bullshit until used units are so scarce and expensive that it's worth it and then they'll drop the capability ASAP once the trucks start aging out.
 
arse_sidewards said:
But would you know if it wasn't? Remember back when all the cool kids were running 400-500hp PSDs and 5.9s? They didn't care that they only had four speeds to work with because they had so much power on tap at any given RPM it didn't really matter. Those are the kind of power levels stock trucks are getting close to these days.
Click to expand...

I was referring to the smooth operation and staying in the powerband perfectly. Great for towing light loads (this load was 17k). Don't know about longevity, but "the temperature gauge stayed cool".
 
Southernfriedcj8 said:
Does a travel trailer get you out of having to have a CDL?

DRW truck 14k GVWR and any TT over 12k GVWR will put you over 26k.

CK, you derated your truck to 10k. What if you get stopped and the steer and rear are over 10k? isn't that a $1k-$2k ticket?

Do ya'll stop at weigh stations (I don't).
Click to expand...

Varies by state. Some have an RV/TT endorsement, some don't. NY has some type of endorsement but CT does not. RV are exempt in CT so I can pull any TT they make. It's really kind of dumb.

18K DRV Suite, no problem. 12,001lbs flat deck trailer, CDL A. It's actually much stupider than that. I can only speak for the state I live in, but the short version is:

Any truck up to 26K, no CDL.
Any truck and trailer up to 26K so long as the trailer is 10K or less, no CDL.
Any truck and trailer up to 26K with a trailer over 10K, CDL B.
Any truck over 26K with a trailer of 10K or less, CDL B.
Any truck and trailer over 26K where the trailer is over 10K, CDL A.

The way it's written, an F350 at 11K pulling a 14K flatbed is CDL B.

Yet, I can roll down the road with my truck at 32K as long as I'm pulling a camper no questions asked. No CDL, no weigh station, nothing.

I went over this with the DMW at least 3 times to be sure. I think they changed the wording a bit though since then but I know RV's are still exempt.
 
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