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MCI 102-C3 coach to RV - Engine Bay

Stainless Bros T4 collector flanges in, along with 1/4" plugs for the expansions tanks and v-band clamps for the turbines. Plugs won't engage more than half a thread in the tank ports just like the last tank that I tried to run a tap in a little deeper. Fucking Chinese crap. Accidentally chose 3.5" Vibrant Performance v-band clamps instead of the 3" that I meant to order.

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arse_sidewards said,
JNHEscher said:
Stainless Bros T4 collector flanges in, along with 1/4" plugs for the expansions tanks and v-band clamps for the turbines. Plugs won't engage more than half a thread in the tank ports just like the last tank that I tried to run a tap in a little deeper. Fucking Chinese crap. Accidentally chose 3.5" Vibrant Performance v-band clamps instead of the 3" that I meant to order.​
Do yourself a favor and run studs instead of bolts. It will make fit up in the engine bay a million times easier if you ever have to service it.
 
[486] said,
arse_sidewards said:
Do yourself a favor and run studs instead of bolts. It will make fit up in the engine bay a million times easier if you ever have to service it.​
nah, the press in studs pictured are crap, they'll sieze then spin
drop two bolts in, then run a rod between the heads with the welder
two removable non-spinning bolty units that when they break off you can easily drop them out
 
arse_sidewards said,
[486] said:
nah, the press in studs pictured are crap, they'll sieze then spin
drop two bolts in, then run a rod between the heads with the welder
two removable non-spinning bolty units that when they break off you can easily drop them out​
I didn't look at the picture and thought those were the heads of bolts going into a blind hole. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Do yourself a favor and run studs instead of bolts. It will make fit up in the engine bay a million times easier if you ever have to service it.​
I put studs in everything. Had enough fun removing nuts and bolts on opposite sides of walls to know better.
[486] said:
nah, the press in studs pictured are crap, they'll sieze then spin
drop two bolts in, then run a rod between the heads with the welder
two removable non-spinning bolty units that when they break off you can easily drop them out​
Probably sticking with the wheel studs. To be determined when the time comes to assemble it all. When the turbos came in, I was scheming about fasteners. About a day later and I remembered that I had some Polaris RZR wheel studs left over. Eight, to be exact. The turbo flange holes are 3/8" and RZR wheel studs are 3/8"-24. Score.
 
CarterKaft said,

This is standard CAT turbocharger hardware. Stainless bolts/nuts and copper high temp antiseize and done. When those studs spin in the manifold you are fucked. CAT switched to that setup later and it is a bastard when it fucks up. With the bolt/nut at least you can just twist them off.

Turbocharger hardware
8M-2295 bolt Stainless Steel Min 895MPa
3/8-16 1-5/8" long 3/4" grip

2N-2766 3/8-16 flanged locknut
Stainless Steel 931-1310 MPa
 
I think I miss the old uploader. Last-minute parts are rolling in just before we leave for OKC for the week. I had 7517871 studs which I use for beadlocks. They're a tad long for the turbo flanges. Ordered a 10 pack of 7518378 studs and they fit perfectly. I know, seized studs, but I have a bottle of high-temp anti-seize. Ordered on the last Summit order for these studs and the 6.0 VGT vanes.

The hydro tank and my new MIG gun are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. \m/

Read through the forum update thread last night. Got everything figured out to make like the old PBB as much as possible. Works for now.

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Not too shabby. 3/4"-16 filter threads. $66.18 shipped. 10-micron FPC filter with it which might be just fine for the turbos.

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Another pump and this pile of stuff ordered for the turbo oiling. Mostly posting this to see if I can upload images from my phone without them getting clocked when I submit the post on the "updated" forum.

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Only $33.40 shipped from Zoro.

Climax Metals - "Increase the diameter of your shaft while also making it longer." Will do. The pump I ordered is another gear pump. 1/2" shaft, SAE AA. I'll probably be machining a steel centering ring.

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It's so cute. Left to right - Dynamic GPF1013PC 0.07 cubic inch, Vickers VTM42, and White 1210030AEAA 0.18 cubic inch. There was an obvious problem with the pilot sizes. The adapters on the engine are made for nothing more than the Vickers vane pumps which have a pilot size between SAE A and SAE AA. There's still a problem with the newest acquisition, but easier to remedy than the larger, SAE A gear pump.

The smaller pump will put out between 0.32 and 1.34 gpm. Ample for ball bearing turbos. Decided to pull out all the stops on the standalone oiling. Less hot oil dumping into the engine and far less crud going into the turbo bearings. Aside from hoses and one more tank, I should have all the parts to put this together shortly. Not sure that I have any DOM or any other steel around to make a centering ring for the pump. Easy enough to find a drop next week.

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AN adapter for the bottom port to feed the pump. There's loctite on the steel filter nipple. Toss-up between torching the nipple to melt the loctite and hope I don't loose aluminum threads upon nipple removal, or spending another chunk on a Moroso block off adapter that has an AN fitting and would create a loop between the two middle ports that could potentially be a coolant passage. A very minimal coolant passage, but usable nonetheless. Also going with the assumption that I will need to buy a tap to clean up the threads before installing the AN adapter in place of the nipple. Guess I could've gotten a female straight-cut to AN fitting to go directly on the nipple.

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Pump shaft adapter came in today and I didn't catch that it's for a round shaft rather than a keyed shaft. At least I can take measurements from it. Have to order the keyed adapter off McMaster.

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The static pressure load will likely increase current consumption, this is a function of the blade geometry. With an aggressive pitched blade like you have I would expect your core restriction to have a decent effect on the power required. I would not bother with more blade tests in free air. Also your tip clearance to the shroud will effect this as well. You need to test it with the load of the core and shrouding and grills etc. Then test again at temperature. Push or pull will both increase the load on the fan as it will in either case move air from a lower pressure area to a higher pressure area.

The risk for puller with the drive you have is that you may exceed the temperature rating of the motor. Likely in the 65-85C range.


JNHEscher said:
vacuum on the fan will reduce load and amperage
pressure on the fan will increase load and amperage

I assume the fan blowing through the rad would increase airflow by a similar amount to the amperage increase (minus the leakage around the shroud) but I'm no expert

every stock application I see is fans sucking through the rad, but they're also all getting forced air across the whole front surface of the rad, so putting shrouded fans in front would reduce their frontal area
Click to expand...
 
Satan's_Minion said:
The static pressure load will likely increase current consumption, this is a function of the blade geometry. With an aggressive pitched blade like you have I would expect your core restriction to have a decent effect on the power required. I would not bother with more blade tests in free air. Also your tip clearance to the shroud will effect this as well. You need to test it with the load of the core and shrouding and grills etc. Then test again at temperature. Push or pull will both increase the load on the fan as it will in either case move air from a lower pressure area to a higher pressure area.

The risk for puller with the drive you have is that you may exceed the temperature rating of the motor. Likely in the 65-85C range.

QUOTE]

You're making me flash back to my motor controls classes. Not that I remember much :laughing:. I have quite a bit to catch up on in regards to the cooling system.

Hydraulic fans are still an option. Electric fans seemed more ideal because I already had the motor that ran a substantial fan at a very high duty cycle and electric does not rely on engine RPM. The blade pitch is definitely getting reduced. Possibly a larger fan with fewer blades and adjustable pitch so that I may better tune this to suit the motors and air flow requirements.

I believe the next move on the cooling is to getting the radiator cores assembled and installed. They'll be mounted so that there is room to mess around with fans, motors, etc.
Click to expand...
 
'm picking out paints for the engine and accessories as I plan to remove a couple parts for cleaning, measuring, fitting, etc. and might as well coat each part while the opportunity presents itself. POR-15 white engine enamel on most of the long block, POR-15 black engine enamel on some accessories.

My OCD won't let me leave the bare cast iron turbine and cartridge housings alone. Yay? Nay? > https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rll-248903
I haven't used Rust-Oleum high-temp yet. 2,000 degrees is a mighty fine amount of heat to resist.

fetch
 
Originally posted by Firstram View Post
Will you see the paint under the blankets?
Hadn't really planned to use blankies. Could, though. Mostly want the iron covered so that it doesn't get all rusty. May have to try the paint and hope for the best.
 
Firstram said,

Originally posted by JNHEscher View Post
Hadn't really planned to use blankies. Could, though. Mostly want the iron covered so that it doesn't get all rusty. May have to try the paint and hope for the best.
Right, you say that now:lmao:
 
Originally posted by Firstram View Post
Right, you say that now:lmao:
Probably look like a bad sunburn after a while. Kinda wanna try it anyway. Blankies are an easy add-on for later.
This reminds me that I need to start on a welding experiment for the manifolds.
 
gt1guy said,

Originally posted by JNHEscher View Post
Hadn't really planned to use blankies. Could, though. Mostly want the iron covered so that it doesn't get all rusty. May have to try the paint and hope for the best.
Might want to look into having them ceramic coated. It will keep them from rusting but more importantly, it will help hold the heat inside. I don't think there's any paint that will stay on a turbine housing that's glowing cherry red.
 
Originally posted by gt1guy View Post
Might want to look into having them ceramic coated. It will keep them from rusting but more importantly, it will help hold the heat inside. I don't think there's any paint that will stay on a turbine housing that's glowing cherry red.
Wanted to go the ceramic route. Might take me a while to find a reputable coating shop in Springs. The amount of trouble that we and our neighbors have had with contractors and business in general in the area have really made me hesitant to hand any more parts over to someone else to handle. Honesty and ethics have been much more difficult to come by in this state. Don't know why. But I'll look. Would also love to have some bare aluminum parts anodized as cleanly as Vibrant Performance parts.
 
Damn glad to have CAD and McMaster. I've been thinking about buying an aluminum pump mount for SAE AA to machine a bit off so that it has a centering pilot to fit the Vickers mount pilot. The specs on these mounts say 1/2" thick face. That 1/2" is only between the outer face and gussets. The actual face thickness is only 0.15". That's the deciding factor to grab a drop of 1/2" steel plate and machine the adapter myself. With the shaft adapter and claw drive on the tiny gear pump, there's a 1/4" gap between the pump face and Vickers pump mount. 1/2" plate will be good for taking up that gap and providing a centering pilot.

fetch
 
Went ahead with the Moroso filter bypass. Why not? Open passages used for nothing was bothering me. Just might end up running a coolant through those filter inlet ports. Dunno, but the parts are there to make it happen.

Nobody had any picture or description of the inside of the filter bypass. Another part I had to purchase in order to discover all of its dimensions. Happens a lot. The inside (dish) of the bypass measures 0.283" from the sealing face, therefore only catches two threads of the nipple in the reservoir. I might have to pull that nipple out and swap in the long nipple I have left over from the first Earl's filter mount that I used for the primary fuel filter. About to look up square-cut o-rings to find one that will squeeze between the reservoir filter face and the bypass dish. Better seal that up lest I run coolant by there and it gets in the oil.

fetch
 
What was supposed to be a 2.5" diameter, spun aluminum tank with 1/4" ports and brushed surface ordered from Switch Suspension, drop shipped from Seamless Tanks, showed up as a 3.5" diameter, spun aluminum tank with 3/8" ports and no brushed texture. Get to call yet another company about an incorrect shipment. The did send the right size brackets, though - for 2.5". This was intended as an oil res for the turbos to supply them with a little more oil after the engine gets shut down.

fetch
 
Originally posted by SLOWPOKE693 View Post
Well that sucks.
Wouldn't mind it so much if didn't take a week and a half to receive orders. Hope their customer service is good. Thought their tanks would be a lot nicer by the looks of their website.
 
Successfully removed a neeple. It didn't have serrated threads, so the aluminum threads look great. Melted the loctite with LP pretty quickly. The Earl's neeple has the perfect depth. Moroso bypass threads on snuggly.

fetch
 
Found that I can purchase Cerakote, by the way. https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerako...-glacier-black

I was going to call a local place for coating the turbos, but since the Glacier Black is air cure and I already have every material and tool for prep and spraying because I've been a car painter and started a carbon fiber business a few years ago, I'm all for DIY in the new shed.

Wife and I were strolling through Home Depot last week. I spotted the high-temp Rustoleum. Bought it before researching it because it was $2 cheaper than Summit Racing. Found the videos of it...
 
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