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MCI 102-C3 coach to RV - Engine Bay
- Thread starter JNHEscher
- Start date
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
riginally posted by 87manche View Post
have you checked all the gun forums for DIY cerakote things?
Not yet. I started calling the higher end gun shops in the area. Not much luck after I started describing that I wanted turbos coated. Never had much of an interest in guns, so I'm rather clueless as to where best to look. Certainly worth my time to research, though.
have you checked all the gun forums for DIY cerakote things?
Not yet. I started calling the higher end gun shops in the area. Not much luck after I started describing that I wanted turbos coated. Never had much of an interest in guns, so I'm rather clueless as to where best to look. Certainly worth my time to research, though.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
87manche said,
http://www.regionprecision.com/home/...te-application
https://www.shootingillustrated.com/...ns-directions/
I mean, it's just like anything else. clean it, prep it, spray it, bake it.
brownells sells kits and what not.
https://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=cerakote
http://www.regionprecision.com/home/...te-application
https://www.shootingillustrated.com/...ns-directions/
I mean, it's just like anything else. clean it, prep it, spray it, bake it.
brownells sells kits and what not.
https://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=cerakote
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Wet sanded the Seamless tank in the lathe with 320 and WD-40 to knock some of the rough tooth off left by spin forming. Acetone flush, POR-15 Metal Prep as instructed, rinsed, dry with heat gun while in lathe, then first coat of POR-15 gloss black. The lathe is continuing to run at around 100 RPM while the first coat tacks up. Didn't want any drips to make their way around to the underside.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Third coat of POR-15 is on. Kinda lucky that none of the 300 miller moths in the bus have landed in the wet paint.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
POR-15 on the tank didnt turn out too bad. Still had fisheyes. Good enough.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Aluminum adapter nut with 3/6-16 threads. Knocked a piece down to 0.176" for a spacer to squish a square o-ring. That part is complete.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
I started tearing down the turbos for paint.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
I need to get these exhaust manifolds done. Got the funds, more or less. I'll throw my options at ya. 1 - water jet individual port flanges to allow for heat expansion and contraction, much like the OE manifolds, 2 - water jet all four ports in one flange, or 3 - thought about submitting the horn file to see what it would cost to have them CNC milled so that I don't have to mess with reshaping the round tube pieces to fit the oblong ports because the round profile would already be milled with the flange and ready to fit up more round tubing.
I do need to change the single port files a bit to keep the stud holes slotted like the four-port flange so the manifolds can be lifted off without completely removing the stud nuts.
If I had a convenient way to investment cast my own manifolds, I'd totally do it. I tried to shape some clay into tubes to see if I could weld over top of it. That way I could form the manifolds and basically weld them up like an additive manufacturing. Even with letting the clay dry for a couple weeks, it still powdered and blew apart under the intense heat of molten steel. I'm down to either tacking some TIG rods around the perimeter of each port, bending the rods into shape and welding those together, or just stick with buying all the weld els. Only major reason I don't want the weld els is because they take up enough room to end up holding the turbos about two feet away from the heads.
Interested to see some feedback on that. I'll continue porting over my pirate thread so I can get rolling on it here again.
I do need to change the single port files a bit to keep the stud holes slotted like the four-port flange so the manifolds can be lifted off without completely removing the stud nuts.
If I had a convenient way to investment cast my own manifolds, I'd totally do it. I tried to shape some clay into tubes to see if I could weld over top of it. That way I could form the manifolds and basically weld them up like an additive manufacturing. Even with letting the clay dry for a couple weeks, it still powdered and blew apart under the intense heat of molten steel. I'm down to either tacking some TIG rods around the perimeter of each port, bending the rods into shape and welding those together, or just stick with buying all the weld els. Only major reason I don't want the weld els is because they take up enough room to end up holding the turbos about two feet away from the heads.
Interested to see some feedback on that. I'll continue porting over my pirate thread so I can get rolling on it here again.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
arse_sidewards said,
I l vote single flange. Once it's bolted to the head it's not going to move around. Your gaskets wouldn't last if that happened. If you want to allow room for heat expansion then design that into your piping.
I l vote single flange. Once it's bolted to the head it's not going to move around. Your gaskets wouldn't last if that happened. If you want to allow room for heat expansion then design that into your piping.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Originally posted by arse_sidewards View Post
I l vote single flange. Once it's bolted to the head it's not going to move around. Your gaskets wouldn't last if that happened. If you want to allow room for heat expansion then design that into your piping.
My preference as well. Really wishing I could afford at least a CNC router. Checked on prices last week. About four times what I can spend on tooling right now. Last water jet quote for each flange in 1/2" 304 was something like $249. Anybody have one of those buddies that offer a job favor with a CNC mill next door to loan me?
I l vote single flange. Once it's bolted to the head it's not going to move around. Your gaskets wouldn't last if that happened. If you want to allow room for heat expansion then design that into your piping.
My preference as well. Really wishing I could afford at least a CNC router. Checked on prices last week. About four times what I can spend on tooling right now. Last water jet quote for each flange in 1/2" 304 was something like $249. Anybody have one of those buddies that offer a job favor with a CNC mill next door to loan me?
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Originally posted by Firstram View Post
Fuck that! At those prices, have them plasma cut and spend an afternoon with a die grinder.
I seriously looked up 304 plates on eBay again, thinking about just grinding the whole damn thing myself. Not really worth it. So far, everything I received from plasma cutters has been warped from the heat. Makes me happy to pay for a hydro cut. I'll play around with ideas more tonight and send in a file by Monday.
Fuck that! At those prices, have them plasma cut and spend an afternoon with a die grinder.
I seriously looked up 304 plates on eBay again, thinking about just grinding the whole damn thing myself. Not really worth it. So far, everything I received from plasma cutters has been warped from the heat. Makes me happy to pay for a hydro cut. I'll play around with ideas more tonight and send in a file by Monday.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Originally posted by bdkw1 View Post
Either mill or water jet. Laser or plasma will warp the shit out of them as you have noticed.
What is the height and length of the flanges.
2.62" height, 24.359" width, 0.5" thick, currently. I may tighten up the overall dims to fit in a 2.5" wide bar. If I send it to a water jet shop, they're probably going to cut it from a full plate, so fitting this within the constraints of bar stock won't matter. I just want to be sure to cover the OE gasket, I suppose. Pretty sure my father-in-law would mill them for free, but his CNC mill (edit: router) is a Piranha FX. Half inch of 304 would take about six month per flange lol.
Either mill or water jet. Laser or plasma will warp the shit out of them as you have noticed.
What is the height and length of the flanges.
2.62" height, 24.359" width, 0.5" thick, currently. I may tighten up the overall dims to fit in a 2.5" wide bar. If I send it to a water jet shop, they're probably going to cut it from a full plate, so fitting this within the constraints of bar stock won't matter. I just want to be sure to cover the OE gasket, I suppose. Pretty sure my father-in-law would mill them for free, but his CNC mill (edit: router) is a Piranha FX. Half inch of 304 would take about six month per flange lol.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Originally posted by Twankie View Post
I don’t really see the problem with warpage on the bare flanges?
it is going to need to be milled flat after welding anyways.
True. I'll be welding to them while they're torqued to the heads. Believe I'll draw up flanges with the transitions included to get a quote for milling that from a block of 304 just out of curiosity. Save me from having to make the transitions and I could draw it for minimal mill time and maximum material strength.
I don’t really see the problem with warpage on the bare flanges?
it is going to need to be milled flat after welding anyways.
True. I'll be welding to them while they're torqued to the heads. Believe I'll draw up flanges with the transitions included to get a quote for milling that from a block of 304 just out of curiosity. Save me from having to make the transitions and I could draw it for minimal mill time and maximum material strength.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Originally posted by bdkw1 View Post
Can it go thicker than 1/2"? To mill transitions in, thicker would be better.
I can go hella thick. With transitions would easily be 3" thick. Would much rather get this milled with transitions. I'm just hesitant about the cost. I'll send a file in a report back.
Can it go thicker than 1/2"? To mill transitions in, thicker would be better.
I can go hella thick. With transitions would easily be 3" thick. Would much rather get this milled with transitions. I'm just hesitant about the cost. I'll send a file in a report back.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
bdkw1 said,
Originally posted by JNHEscher View Post
I can go hella thick. With transitions would easily be 3" thick. Would much rather get this milled with transitions. I'm just hesitant about the cost. I'll send a file in a report back.
How big are the tubes?
Ports are 1.7 x 3.5 if I'm reading the print right?
Originally posted by JNHEscher View Post
I can go hella thick. With transitions would easily be 3" thick. Would much rather get this milled with transitions. I'm just hesitant about the cost. I'll send a file in a report back.
How big are the tubes?
Ports are 1.7 x 3.5 if I'm reading the print right?
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Originally posted by bdkw1 View Post
Port area is 5.33", 2/5 sch10 ID area is 5.39". Soooo? Personally I think sch10 is a little light for a turbo manifold on something this size. Going 2.5 sch40 ony goes down to 4.78". Not all that great of a loss.
I tried going by area originally. Thought the 2.5" sch10 was right, but it wasn't. 3" sch10 is doable. The loop length of the port is 8.94". Closest I can get to that is 3" sch80 at 9.11" loop length. Sch80 crazy thick for exhaust tubes although the OE cast manis are pretty much that thick.
I'm still thinking of getting the head flanges water jet cut from thicker plate, making the brackets to bolt the Stainless Bros flanges to so they're in position, then just stringing tig rod between the two. Trying to think of the best way to describe this. Tack one end of a rod to the perimeter of the head flange port, then bend it over to the turbo flange and tack it to the perimeter of the corresponding port. Add rods around the ports to stack them until they form a wire tube then melt them together. Kinda like bending the ice engine works mock-up tubes, but in wire form. I get the feeling that this wouldn't turn out as nicely as I'd like, though I really want to play with it. The idea would allow for manifolds that hug the block and avoid cutting and piecing weld els together.
Port area is 5.33", 2/5 sch10 ID area is 5.39". Soooo? Personally I think sch10 is a little light for a turbo manifold on something this size. Going 2.5 sch40 ony goes down to 4.78". Not all that great of a loss.
I tried going by area originally. Thought the 2.5" sch10 was right, but it wasn't. 3" sch10 is doable. The loop length of the port is 8.94". Closest I can get to that is 3" sch80 at 9.11" loop length. Sch80 crazy thick for exhaust tubes although the OE cast manis are pretty much that thick.
I'm still thinking of getting the head flanges water jet cut from thicker plate, making the brackets to bolt the Stainless Bros flanges to so they're in position, then just stringing tig rod between the two. Trying to think of the best way to describe this. Tack one end of a rod to the perimeter of the head flange port, then bend it over to the turbo flange and tack it to the perimeter of the corresponding port. Add rods around the ports to stack them until they form a wire tube then melt them together. Kinda like bending the ice engine works mock-up tubes, but in wire form. I get the feeling that this wouldn't turn out as nicely as I'd like, though I really want to play with it. The idea would allow for manifolds that hug the block and avoid cutting and piecing weld els together.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
CarterKraft said,
Don't forget I am against all this scratch built manifold BS but I do see the promise in this design...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjVzubQ2ayU
Don't forget I am against all this scratch built manifold BS but I do see the promise in this design...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjVzubQ2ayU
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
bdkw1 said,
Originally posted by CarterKraft View Post
Don't forget I am against all this scratch built manifold BS but I do see the promise in this design...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjVzubQ2ayU
When I get around to replacing the turbo on my Samurai!, it will get a manifold like that.
Originally posted by CarterKraft View Post
Don't forget I am against all this scratch built manifold BS but I do see the promise in this design...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjVzubQ2ayU
When I get around to replacing the turbo on my Samurai!, it will get a manifold like that.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Originally posted by CarterKraft View Post
Don't forget I am against all this scratch built manifold BS but I do see the promise in this design...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjVzubQ2ayU
Really glad you brought that up. I watched that whole video without audio while laying in bed in Oklahoma. Completely forgot about it the next day. I'll draw some like it.
I'm still going with divided entry. Looking from the rear of the bus, the left bank can be done in two halves. The right bank may need three layers. Probably bolt the layers together rather than weld.
Don't forget I am against all this scratch built manifold BS but I do see the promise in this design...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjVzubQ2ayU
Really glad you brought that up. I watched that whole video without audio while laying in bed in Oklahoma. Completely forgot about it the next day. I'll draw some like it.
I'm still going with divided entry. Looking from the rear of the bus, the left bank can be done in two halves. The right bank may need three layers. Probably bolt the layers together rather than weld.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Got started on the sandwich plate style manifold tonight. This may take some time as I triple check my work and figure out how these can machined efficiently for the studs holes/slots. The studs are in the center rather than top and bottom. There are threaded holes above and below the ports, but not quite enough to hold the manifold from end to end. Here's hoping this design doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Old Garrett compressor wheel. Figured I'd post it for shits n giggles. Delivering the turbo to friend. He wants to attempt to make a jet powered kart. We agree that there's no better way to finish the turbo off.
New CPU fan on the way for my laptop. Can't work on the manifold drawing due to thermal shutdown.
New CPU fan on the way for my laptop. Can't work on the manifold drawing due to thermal shutdown.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
One of my ideas about this style of manifold is doing it in 3 printer style with thin sheets then welding the ends of the "laminations" to form a solid chunk of steel. No machining required all made with plasma cut (or lazer for the bling) plates. Perimeter holes could be added for jigging with bolts for the clamping then welded solid to add anti-balooning strength.
Machining plate steel thick enough to be a manifold half is going to be costly.
This method would be made with cheap plate steel, stainless etc. I haven't worked out all the bugs but I think you are smart enough to.