aczlan
Good Morning!
Never mind then, was just taking apart a hydrogen line the other day and that reminded me of it.
Aaron Z
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Lets tear apart a perfectly good truck
- Thread starter BustedCrank
- Start date
Aaron Z
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Got the new fan, put it on the fan clutch, and was looking good for helping with clearance. I knew it was going to be close to hitting the accessories...but I didn't even think about the balancer, it sticks out a bit further then all the other accessories, and the fan definitely won't clear that.
So back to the drawing board on that. Was looking into a first gen non-intercooled fan clutch, they are about 1/2" thicker in total then the one I have, but I can't tell how far in or out it places the blades in comparison. the first gen intercooled trucks use the same clutch fan as the 2nd gen trucks, so no help there. Going to have to do some more looking around. Here's a picture of the two different blades on the same clutch.
So back to the drawing board on that. Was looking into a first gen non-intercooled fan clutch, they are about 1/2" thicker in total then the one I have, but I can't tell how far in or out it places the blades in comparison. the first gen intercooled trucks use the same clutch fan as the 2nd gen trucks, so no help there. Going to have to do some more looking around. Here's a picture of the two different blades on the same clutch.BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Got started with the harness. Another part I've been dreading. In my head I wasn't going to be needing much from it really, oil pressure sensor for gauge and fuel pump, temp gauge, alternator, starter wire, and the a/c wires. Marked out everything I needed to keep with the blue tape.
Just getting all the loom off is time consuming in itself.
Apparently I didn't take a picture once I had everything out, nor of the pile of shit that was removed.
Had to pull the alternator plug apart so I could add in a wire to the "P" terminal in the plug (Thanks to Billavista for the info that the P prong on these is the same as a "W" terminal you can use to run a tach). I had to take apart four or five plugs that i removed from the harness to find the right connector. They all look the same from the outside, but are all retained differently.
Now my alternator plug has a tach wire i can use.
Some initial mocking up. Got the alt/tach wires lengthened out. The oil pressure gauge wire lengthened.
Just getting all the loom off is time consuming in itself.
Apparently I didn't take a picture once I had everything out, nor of the pile of shit that was removed.
Had to pull the alternator plug apart so I could add in a wire to the "P" terminal in the plug (Thanks to Billavista for the info that the P prong on these is the same as a "W" terminal you can use to run a tach). I had to take apart four or five plugs that i removed from the harness to find the right connector. They all look the same from the outside, but are all retained differently.
Now my alternator plug has a tach wire i can use.
Some initial mocking up. Got the alt/tach wires lengthened out. The oil pressure gauge wire lengthened.
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BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Still need to do some figuring on how I'm going to wire the A/C stuff. The GM system uses three switches. High pressure (in the back of the pump), low pressure (in the line), and a cycling switch on the accumulator. I might have the high and low pressure switches backwards, maybe the low pressure is in the pump, going to have to double check that now. But the dodge compressor doesn't have a switch in the pump itself like the GM one does. I know a lot of the older systems only use two switches, so I'm hoping i can get away with just ditching the one in the back of the pump altogether. Anybody with a second gen cummins know if their system uses two or three switches off hand?
I'm thinking I can just use a 4 prong relay to replace the computer that will no longer be there. From what I can tell, the computer didn't really control anything for the AC, basically just adjusted what the engine was doing if the AC was running.
I'm thinking I can just use a 4 prong relay to replace the computer that will no longer be there. From what I can tell, the computer didn't really control anything for the AC, basically just adjusted what the engine was doing if the AC was running.
Back woods, from the old board, had a solution for a skinny fan when he put a Brazilian in his f700. Don't know why I can't @ him.
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Thanks, I'll venture over and see if I can find it.
Didn't there used to be a hiding under a chair smiley?
Didn't there used to be a hiding under a chair smiley?
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
From what I can tell, he used a flex fan (no clutch), and a couple cheap electric pusher fans. I'd like to keep it a clutch fan setup if I can. Right now, I'm thinking of getting a clutch from an 01 truck and seeing if that will give me at least another 1/4".
aczlan
Good Morning!
This was the fan that he linked as having used (as near as I can tell, his old link goes with dead page on the flex a lite site): Flex-a-lite 1017 1000 Series Low Profile Flex Fan; 17 in. Dia.; Blue Star/Aluminum Blades; Fan Rotation CW
Starting around post 272 in the V3.0 thread: pirate4x4.com/threads/version-3-0.2115450/page-14#post-33532442
Pictures:
Aaron Z
TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
What about have a custom made spacer between fan and the clutch to space the fan back a little? Hub pilot to keep fan centered.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Oh all the joys of a swap.
Great job working through each one.
I don't understand the loud stinky diesel swap but carry on...
Great job working through each one.
I don't understand the loud stinky diesel swap but carry on...
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Haven't decided yet, Thought about throwing it all into a std cab short box and then selling it. But probably end up just selling it.
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Spent a little time on it today. Drilled new holes for the upper radiator mount to move the top of the radiator forward a half an inch. Had to clearance a few spots on the core support to make room for the charge air cooler and radiator to move, but it did give me a little more room. With the dodge fan clutch and the dodge fan, I'm now at 7/8" at the closest spot to the radiator. I need to look again at the 01-02 dodge fan clutch, if that will give me another 1/4", I'd be happy with that.
Spent a little time getting some wires into the cab that i need for the dakota box. Needed the wire coming from the alternator, the wire that goes to the tach, the two wires from the VSS on the t case, and the wire that goes to the speedo. Got all those extended out/ routed to a spot under the dash that I think I can hide that box, yet still get to it to set it up if needed.
Spent a little time getting some wires into the cab that i need for the dakota box. Needed the wire coming from the alternator, the wire that goes to the tach, the two wires from the VSS on the t case, and the wire that goes to the speedo. Got all those extended out/ routed to a spot under the dash that I think I can hide that box, yet still get to it to set it up if needed.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
Your old combo in like a 2dr yukon would be awesome. Swap in the 3\4T IFS and everything.
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
You know how long it took me to get that idea out of my head? Damn you!
RHTrucks
Well-known member
I've been staring at my 95 2 door yukon and 98 crew cab 4x4 3500. I thought it would be cool to have a 2 door 3/4 ton, but SAS is a better option.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
Oh for sure as a project by itself SAS is the way to go for most uses but in his case where the drivetrain is already owned and removed from another project it could be a fun build to use up parts and is still an upgrade over the current 1\2T stuff a yukon\tahoe etc would be running.
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
I have a '93 K2500 parts truck for just that reason with my '94 K1500 2-door Yukon, but I've been debating going straight to the SAS on it. The K2500 also got me an NV4500 and spare t-case, so there is still that if I go SAS.
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Not a lot to update, haven't had a lot of time with it because of holiday stuff. Still tinkering on the wiring harness.
Picture of the upper radiator mounts that I re-drilled to tilt it up a 1/2" at the top, and had to trim it as well.
Compressor for the Pacbrake. Took the solenoid off the compressor and mounted it to the tank instead.
Mounted the Compressor under the battery tray on the driver side. I would have preferred it under the passenger side battery tray to use less airline, but it would have pretty much blocked the only route I have left for AC lines.
I wanted to have the compressor under one battery, and the tank under the other, but there just wasn't enough room to do it without getting creative. Trying to get the fittings to clear, and doing a remote setup to be able to drain it without tearing the whole thing out just seemed like too much work, so I looked to put it elsewhere. Didn't really want to just screw it to a fender, especially since I don't have a washer fluid reservoir for the driver side yet, and I'm gonna need all the room I can get on the passenger side for an air filter of some sort. So under the truck it went on the inside of the passenger frame rail. Which is why I mounted the solenoid to the tank, now the solenoid is only eight inches away from the cylinder on the brake.
This is pacbrake kit C44047, its for an 03-07 cummins. I wanted a 5" inline setup to be able to use it in the future when I get around to putting compounds on it. I know its not going to work as well as a direct mount would have, but I didn't want to buy one twice, these things are expensive! Hopefully it's worth the price.
Picture of the upper radiator mounts that I re-drilled to tilt it up a 1/2" at the top, and had to trim it as well.
Compressor for the Pacbrake. Took the solenoid off the compressor and mounted it to the tank instead.
Mounted the Compressor under the battery tray on the driver side. I would have preferred it under the passenger side battery tray to use less airline, but it would have pretty much blocked the only route I have left for AC lines.
I wanted to have the compressor under one battery, and the tank under the other, but there just wasn't enough room to do it without getting creative. Trying to get the fittings to clear, and doing a remote setup to be able to drain it without tearing the whole thing out just seemed like too much work, so I looked to put it elsewhere. Didn't really want to just screw it to a fender, especially since I don't have a washer fluid reservoir for the driver side yet, and I'm gonna need all the room I can get on the passenger side for an air filter of some sort. So under the truck it went on the inside of the passenger frame rail. Which is why I mounted the solenoid to the tank, now the solenoid is only eight inches away from the cylinder on the brake.
This is pacbrake kit C44047, its for an 03-07 cummins. I wanted a 5" inline setup to be able to use it in the future when I get around to putting compounds on it. I know its not going to work as well as a direct mount would have, but I didn't want to buy one twice, these things are expensive! Hopefully it's worth the price.
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Been running that in-line kit kit for about 16yrs and 300k miles. The clevises r a little worn out and i had to replace the air piston once. Its lasted through 3 exhausts but the air tank rotted out and i replaced with an aluminum 2.5 gal that i mounted to the frame. I have also been through a few compressors. They freeze in the winter and score the cylinders and seize. If it gets cold push in a few ouces of air line antifreeze.
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Never thought about using some air line antifreeze, good call.
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
So the 01-02 dodge fan clutch was a bust. The clutch itself is quite a bit thicker (which I knew from the specs on rockauto). What I wasn't expecting was the nut that threads onto the hub would be twice the size, if the nut was the same as the one I already had, it would have given me another ~1/4" (I didn't measure it) So put the stock clutch and fan back on it, I think I'm good with the inch it has at the closest point after tilting the radiator a little more upright. I do need to trim the shroud a little more around the fan though.
Still working on wiring. Got just about everything connected to something.
Left some wire length sticking out of the passthrough/bulkhead on the passenger side. I figured I leave it like this to be able to reconnect to them if need be. I'm guessing there's at least one, or six, in there that I fucked up and cut the wrong one, or just plain forgot that I needed.
After some black tape treatment, starting to look a little better. Next I will try to get it all in some loom. I've always been jealous of the guys that can making wiring look fantastic, I've never been that guy. I did step my game up above crimp connectors for this project though. Every splice is a solder connection and heat shrinked.
Still have to make battery cables, and get the wiring done inside the cab. Not too much in there, VSS and tach signal wires to the dakota box, pacbrake switch, power/lights for the pillar gauges, switch for the auxiliary fan, and the clutch pedal switch wires.
Still working on wiring. Got just about everything connected to something.
Left some wire length sticking out of the passthrough/bulkhead on the passenger side. I figured I leave it like this to be able to reconnect to them if need be. I'm guessing there's at least one, or six, in there that I fucked up and cut the wrong one, or just plain forgot that I needed.
After some black tape treatment, starting to look a little better. Next I will try to get it all in some loom. I've always been jealous of the guys that can making wiring look fantastic, I've never been that guy. I did step my game up above crimp connectors for this project though. Every splice is a solder connection and heat shrinked.
Still have to make battery cables, and get the wiring done inside the cab. Not too much in there, VSS and tach signal wires to the dakota box, pacbrake switch, power/lights for the pillar gauges, switch for the auxiliary fan, and the clutch pedal switch wires.
Firstram
Red Skull Member
My wiring looks like shit too, the harder I try the worse it gets!
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Got everything loomed up finally. Sure are a lot of wires under there still for a mechanical engine!
Cut up the factory battery tray mount to fit around the charge air cooler pipes.
Bought a new battery tray from LMC for the passenger side, and cut it up as well. Lost the lower bolt on this one, but its still pretty solid in there with the three other bolts it still has.
Repurposed a little bracket to mount the relays on. Two are for the Pacbrake, one is for the fuel shutoff solenoid, and the other is for the AC. Painted the air filter for the compressor as well, and stuffed it in behind there for now. I have a feeling this will have to get moved around a bit once I find a windshield washer reservoir. Which apparently they don't make the ones for these trucks that mount to the drivers fender, can only find the one like I have that mounts under the battery.
Getting started making some battery cables. Using military style battery terminals. Got the alternator to passenger side battery done. The positive from the pass side terminal to the junction on the firewall that the stereo uses. The positive from battery to battery. And that's as far as I got today. Still need the cable down to the starter, and one to the fuse box. As well as all the ground cables. Oh, and also got the headlight harness back on the truck as well.
Cut up the factory battery tray mount to fit around the charge air cooler pipes.
Bought a new battery tray from LMC for the passenger side, and cut it up as well. Lost the lower bolt on this one, but its still pretty solid in there with the three other bolts it still has.
Repurposed a little bracket to mount the relays on. Two are for the Pacbrake, one is for the fuel shutoff solenoid, and the other is for the AC. Painted the air filter for the compressor as well, and stuffed it in behind there for now. I have a feeling this will have to get moved around a bit once I find a windshield washer reservoir. Which apparently they don't make the ones for these trucks that mount to the drivers fender, can only find the one like I have that mounts under the battery.
Getting started making some battery cables. Using military style battery terminals. Got the alternator to passenger side battery done. The positive from the pass side terminal to the junction on the firewall that the stereo uses. The positive from battery to battery. And that's as far as I got today. Still need the cable down to the starter, and one to the fuse box. As well as all the ground cables. Oh, and also got the headlight harness back on the truck as well.
Lowrollin70gmc
Flatland Wheeler
I'm pretty sure I have three of this style from parts trucks. If you need one, it's yours for the cost of whatever flat rate box it fits in.
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Deal, Thank you sir!
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Looking good man
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Thanks.
Its so close, yet so far away. Every time you think you're almost there, you think of a hundred more things that need to be done.
Its so close, yet so far away. Every time you think you're almost there, you think of a hundred more things that need to be done.
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Having had a swapped cclb ppump 5 speed truck on 37s, it's fucking worth it
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Had....must not have been that good if you got rid of it!