Lets tear apart a perfectly good truck

[BustedCrank]

I decided I would try to match up the master cylinder for the super duty brakes. The 2015 SD has a bore of 1.5" in the master cylinder. The 98 had a 1.25" bore. I went with an '06 dmax master that has a 1.45" bore. Figured that would be close enough.

Come to find out, there are two different hydro boost units used in GM from 73 until recently. And whaddya know the break is between the 98 and 06, naturally! So in '01 they switched to a bigger bore hydroboost unit to accommodate the bigger bore needed in the master for the bigger brakes. So, I ordered up a hydroboost unit for an '06 dmax as well.

Shows up, and the first thing I see is this tag. Dammit, off to find a spring/retainer kit. Ordered a Hydroboost Repair Kit 129496-BH (Big Hole) from amazon.

Putting the two hydroboost units side by side, other then the bore size, mounting plate, and push rod...identical. Was able to easily swap the mounting plates, the push rod was a bit of a pain. Had to Mcgyver a way to press it out, I thought i took pictures of doing it, but I guess I didn't. Pressing it back in wasn't that difficult.

The push rod between the hydroboost and the master is a cut to fit piece. It's already trimmed down in this picture with the original pieces from the 98.

The pushrod doesn't go into the master as far on the 06 master as it does in the 98 master, that's why the rod is shorter then the old one. Pedal travel is the same between the two units.

 

[BustedCrank]

Got the frame rails painted up. Also got the track bar mount on there. Basically a piece of 3.5" square tube that I want to say is 3/8 wall, I'd have to check again, but i beleve it was thicker then 1/4. Don't even remember where I picked it up from. Its notched and conformed to fit the framerail where I needed it to utilize the factory track bar. Might go with an adjustable bar if it settles more then I think it will, or if it turns out I can't read a tape. If I wouldn't have burned the coil buckets on yet, I could have run the plate that is behind the bucket all the way across to track bar mount and it would have looked cleaner. But I wasn't going to cut that bucket off to do so, so it's going to be good enough.

Geometry on the track vs the tie rod is decent. It isn't perfect as they are different lengths. But from what i could tell, it should be better then the factory ford setup. We shall see. I haven't spent much time in an 05+ super duty, do they bump steer from the factory? Seems like they would because the track bar and tie rod are vastly different lengths.

 

[BustedCrank]

Time to tear apart the front end, and replace all the rubber that had got hot. It got new radius arm bushings, balljoints, axle seals, tie rod ends, track bar bushing/balljoint thing, and a set of warn hubs. Luckily I had ordered the correct radius arm bushings, as I found out that they are not all the same.I have an axle from an 08 that I was using for mockup, the bushings on that one are bigger. Probably would have known that if i had kept up on the 05+ bible thread at the old place. As I had purchased those long before this place was here. In case you were wondering, they are not the easiest to replace. Beating them out wasn't bad, and ended up using the balljoint press to get them back in.

Forks on the tractor come in handy for lots of things.

Got a new drag link end for the axle, put tube inserts in a 1.75"x.25 wall dom. Tube inserts are 7/8x18 Left hand thread and 1x16 right hand thread. Moog part number ES2027L for the draglink end at the pitman arm which is a superlift 1104 machined for the chevy draglink taper. I ended up buying two of those pitman arms. That's what happens when you are buying parts over a long time period. I had thought I had one, but could'nt find it in my pile of parts I had, soon as I ordered another one, when it arrived I threw it down on the workbench...right on top of the other one

 

[BustedCrank]

Starting on some exhaust. Beginnings of the downpipe. Has to do a little corkscrew maneuver. Needs to go down and in towards the engine a bit to clear the AC. But once you get past that, it's straight down with plenty of room. Used some 3" mandrel bends. and a vband flange for the turbo.

So a few years ago I built a whole dual 3" exhaust with mandrel bends. I used a couple spintech truck/rv mufflers. And I had placed the exit so you couldn't really see them. I had them in basically the same spot on another truck I have and I liked it, so I copied it. I like that it's not super noticeable, exhaust should be heard, not seen. If anyone cares, their truck/rv mufflers are fairly mellow cruising, but when you get with it, they get pretty rowdy. This exhaust would sure make some noise when you put your foot in it (no cats). Wasn't bad in the truck though, unless you had an enclosed trailer behind you to bounce the sound back at you.

Anyway, I decided I would try and keep the tailpipes so I didn't have to look a a big pipe hanging off one side. I bought a 5" kit for either a crew cab long box early dmax, or dodge, I can't remember. I took a short straight section of it and squeezed it with the vise to try and fit a couple 3" pipes in it.

Success!

 

[BustedCrank]

I had to make it fit the tailpipes right where they were, so I needed an "adapter" that would go from the 5" pipe to the dual 3" and spread it out to the correct width. Pretty much shoved the two pipes into the 5" pipe at a little bit of an angle to get the spread I needed, then miter cut an end piece to get the pipes straight again to match up with the existing pipes. Welded the two together and plated around them before shoving them in the 5" piece and welding that up in hopes of not having any leaks.

I should open a custom exhaust shop

 

[BustedCrank]

When I first started researching things to swap engines. I couldn't find anyone that had done it and kept the silverado headlights, everyone had used a dodge radiator and charge air cooler, and swapped to the work truck front end with the single headlight. I ended up looking at dimensions at some radiators and found out the early dmax radiator was the same dimensions as the late gmt400 trucks with the 454 and diesel. So, I figured if thats the case, a charge air cooler from one of those should fit around the stock radiator. And, the headlight setups are similarly positioned on those trucks, so fingers crossed, maybe that'll work. Picked up a used one eventually off craigslist, I think they were the same from 01-04. I figured 01-02 would be different then the 03+ trucks when they switched the front end, but I guess that wasn't the case.

This was one of the main things I wasn't looking forward to. Then shortly after diving into it, the smoke fell out of the grinder...well damn. Side note, I bought a new dewalt one because this one had lasted almost 20 years. I don't like the new one. Its a button on the side to turn it on, nice in some aspects, but i forsee one of those times when you catch the cutoff wheel and it rips the thing out of your hand and keeps on cutting whatever it lands on/against because it doesnt shut off when you let go like the old style. Hopefully its not my hand or arm that it catches. Also, thing sounds like its falling apart already when its running, definitely dont see this one lasting near as long.

First cuts

Test fitting

All done cutting

The radiator sits in its factory spot. Cut all the mounting tabs off the charge air cooler to get it to fit into the core support. There is just enough room for it between the radiator and where the hood latch goes. Spaced out the bottom of the hood latch support and the ac fan bracket, I think it was about an inch if I remember correctly.

Its all on there, tight, but it should work. Held up one of the headlights, and parking lights, and it looks like it will clear the cooler with just a trim of the excess of the adjuster bolt to aim the headlights. So, so far, looks to be a success.

 

[V30crewcab]

nice job! tight and clean.

 

[Projectjunkie]

Maybe you weren't aware yet, the 1st gen cummins trucks used a fan hub that was 1" shorter and can save some space. Hard to find though

 

[TrailTamer]

Maybe you weren't aware yet, the 1st gen cummins trucks used a fan hub that was 1" shorter and can save some space. Hard to find though

You meant the fan clutch itself? Per RockAuto, the bracket/bearing is available and interchangeable between 1st and 2nd gen

 

[V30crewcab]

the fan bearing assembly, but you also need the pulley, which is harder to find. its only on the 91.5-93 intercooled ones.

 

[aczlan]

the fan bearing assembly, but you also need the pulley, which is harder to find. its only on the 91.5-93 intercooled ones.

Digging on Rock Auto (1992 DODGE W350 PICKUP 5.9L L6 DIESEL Turbocharged Radiator Fan Clutch | RockAuto), they list the fan bearing assembly with intercooler as a Gates FB1002 More Information for GATES FB1002
They have two different fan clutches that are different thicknesses as well:
Without intercooler is a Hayden 2788 which has a overall height of 3.63" More Information for HAYDEN 2788

With intercooler is a Hayden 2798 which has a overall height of 3.27" More Information for HAYDEN 2798

Is it important? Not sure but but I thought it was interesting to note.

Aaron Z

 

[Lowrollin70gmc]

the fan bearing assembly, but you also need the pulley, which is harder to find. its only on the 91.5-93 intercooled ones.

If this project ends up needing the bearing block and pulley, I may still have one from my 91.5 that's in my 68 K20. I'll look tomorrow/Tuesday as I have to move some shop stuff to my basement anyways.

If you (BustedCrank) need it and I still have it, it's yours for shipping cost.

 

[BustedCrank]

I appreciate it. But the 2nd gen hub assembly I have is going to work.

Doesn't the first gen setup move the fan over as well? Was messing with the fan shroud today and am basically having to move the shroud over an inch and a half, along with mutilating it to clear the bigger fan blades. But if the 1st gen hub moves the fan over towards the pass side a bit, that would have been a better option.

Probably depends on how your engine mounts are setup as well on which hub would be better suited to your swap, as in, how far side to side it's sitting.

 

[BustedCrank]

Got the exhaust all stuck together. vband on the turbo to a 3" downpipe. Once it gets down low enough, it does a 90 and goes up to 5" right into a 5" pacbrake. From there its a straight 5" pipe until it gets to my "splitter" and connects to the two 3" tailpipes. Went with the pacbrake prxb c44047, its a kit for an 03-07 dodge. Couldn't get a 5" setup for a 12 valve, and I wanted to 5" for future turbo setups. I know it's not ideal as it is now, being so far away from the turbo, it'll just be a little laggy on the braking.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Orange rust dust says there's some steel on steel action going on somewhere.

 

[BustedCrank]

Yeah, I never even noticed it until the flash went off. Its from where the tail pipes met with the mufflers. The band clamps would leak rusty water from inside the pipes. Thought for sure there would be water in the mufflers when i took them out, but they were dry.

 

[BustedCrank]

Tied into the supply line from the tank at the fuel filter that is on the framerail under the cab. Those fittings the filter uses are m16x1.5. Edelbrock fitting 640830 is a female m16x1.5 to male -6 AN. Then made a braided stainless line with a straight connector on one end, and a 90 on the other. Used a russell 660460 fitting on the top of the pre-filter/fuel heater housing (whatever you want to call it, I removed the heater portion of it), the fitting is male -6 to male 3/8 NPT. For the return line just took the return line from the pump, and shoved it over the factory return line and clamped it, didn't need to cut the line or anything, was in the right spot to work out pretty well.

For the throttle cable, I ditched the big contraption dodge uses. Just put the gm cable right to the pump. Made a little adapter that used the end from the rod that goes between the pump and the big assembly dodge used. Made it so the GM cable could slip into it, and then hook onto the throttle lever on the pump the way it did factory. Then just made a little bracket to hold the throttle cable.

Noticed when I got it together that the pedal has more travel then the lever does. So the pump is full throttle before the pedal hits the floor. Double checked the dodge assembly to make sure it wasn't a multiplier or reducer of some sort. And its not, the throw is linear, you get the same amount of movement out of it that you put into it. Anywho, I'm thinking the way i have it set up will be a very touchy throttle. If so, i will probably extend that bracket on the pump a little to make use of the full travel of the pedal.


Seems like everyone has a different way to do the clutch hydraulics. From using all Dodge stuff, to the "heavy duty" hydraulics for dodges when using a bigger clutch, to using all GM stuff adapted to the bellhousing, going with all aftermarket parts. Seems like everything has been tried. So here's what I ended up doing. Stock GM clutch master cylinder, that way I didnt have to try and adapt a dodge master to the firewall and pedal. And a stock Dodge slave cylinder. I don't remember what the bore sizes of the two (GM and Dodge) master cylinders are, but I believe they are the same, or close enough to it. Used a -3 AN 48" aeroquip braided stainless line (fbpa0039-48) between them. Russell fittings 640281 into the master and the slave to adapt them both to -3 an line. I had to reem out the slave a bit to get the fitting to fit into it, but about half a second with a drill bit is all it took.

clutch fitting to -3 picture stolen from summit

 

[V30crewcab]

in my dads 98 I used the chevy master, and an 99-02 dodge slave. works perfect.

 

[BustedCrank]

Welded in a little extension in the transfer case shifter.

Couldn't find anywhere that had an OEM nv4500 shifter boot for these trucks, or any repop ones for that matter. Ended up going with a dorman boot for a kenworth (924-5405). OER makes one for a second gen fbody that i think would be close as well. There were a few nicer looking/custom ones that I looked at as well. But those were just leather boots and i figured the think rubber would help a little with the noise...like it's gonna matter. Also threw a chunk of rubber down under the carpet/shift boot as well to help seal it up some around the shift tower. Probably wont do much of anything, but maybe it'll help keep some odor, or moisture out, or maybe at least just the mice. Also threw on a set of rubbers on the clutch and brake pedals, they are cheap from rockauto, but actually seem like decent rubber.

 

[BustedCrank]

Switched out the gauges I had on on the A-pillar. Used to have white faced autometer phantom gauges in it (fuel pressure, vac & boost, and AF ratio that had an annoying led sweep that was basically connected to the o2 sensors, you could switch between the banks). They make a factory match line that's for the 01+ gm trucks, that matches the 96-99 trucks pretty well. But they didn't have the range i wanted on one of them, don't remember which one it was though, so I was off to look for something else. Ended up going with the spek pro. They do all sorts of fancy shit I don't need, but I thougtht they looked decent. And I liked how they dont have the ring around them like a lot of the gauges do, so the face is bigger for the same size gauge.

Used a 30" grease whip to attach the sensors, always hear about the 12valve taking out the electric sending units for gauges. Lot of people say the grease whips work, so we'll see. Also ran a snubber for the fuel pressue gauge. Got lucky on the egt probe that the previous one in the manifold was the same thread. Haven't heat shrunk it yet, figure i'll wait and make sure it works first. The two sending units for the fuel and boost are sitting under the master cylinder at the moment, don't know if i'll leave them there or not yet. Might change once I get wiring in there.

 

[BustedCrank]

Got the brakes plumbed up, haven't filled it up yet since I still need to do the rear. Was able to make due mostly with the stock fitting and tube from the 98. Ditched the ABS, as I've never liked how it worked (or didn't) on this truck. The fittings going into the master are different front to back on the 98, 9/16 and 1/2 if remember right. where on the 06 master they are both the same size, 1/2. On the 98 the tube going to the rear brakes is larger then it is for front, and on the 06 master, they would normally both be the same size. Difference being the drum/disc rear brakes. I kept the bigger tube out of being less work for me, just put the smaller fitting on it to fit into the master.

There was already a union here where I put this T the fittings here are 3/8-24. The ends of the tubing where it connects to the rubber brake lines also had, or so I thought, the same fittings. But when I tried putting them onto the f350 brake lines, they wouldn't go. So I swapped them out for new 3/8x24 fittings and then it connects right to a set of stock brake lines for an f350. Used Mastercool's brake flare tool, IMO it's totally worth the money if you see yourself doing brake lines on a couple projects, thing makes perfect flares eveytime.

Shocks are bilstein 5100s (24-186018), which are for stock-2" leveling kit for a SD.

 

[BustedCrank]

Threw a fender on to hold the core support in the right spot to start making radiator and charge air hoses.

 

[BustedCrank]

The radiator inlet and outlet on the cummins are both 1 3/4" . The radiator has an 1 1/4" inlet and an 1 1/2" outlet. Just staring at it for a while, I figured I could use a 90* hose of each appropriate size on the upper. And a 45* hose of each size on the lower hose. And connect the two with some exhaust tubing. I was planning on just using some gates hoses, but turned out to be a pain to find all the sizes so i ended up just grabbing some summit hoses since they made it easy to find what I needed.

For the upper hose, used an 18" long piece of 1 3/4" exhaust tubing from the local parts shack, threw it in the tubing bender just until it started to kink. Cut the bell off the one end and welded a reducer onto the other end to get it down to 1 3/8, close enough to get that 1 1/4 hose onto it. Used shrink wrap clamps to clamp the hoses to the tubing, never used them before. I think i like them, but not sure when to pull the heat off them, you don't really see them shrink if you're at the upper range of the sizes they are for. It's not like shrink wrapping a wire. I guess I got them tight enough, cause I can't move the hose on the pipe anymore, guess we'll see when i dump some water in it. Wasn't thinking when I cut one leg of the 90 on the engine side of the upper hose, now I get to look at the summit branding everytime i open the hood.

Lower hose was pretty simple with the two 45* hoses meeting basically together, just stuck a section of the 1 3/4" pipe with a reducer welded onto it to get the 1 1/2" hose from the radiator connected.

I bought an eastwood bead roller to make hoses with, along with their tubing bead die. Worked pretty well. couldn't use it on the smallest tube though, 1 3/8" ID is the smallest you can do with the die. The small side of the upper radiator reducer I used had a 1 3/8 OD , So i welded a bead on that one.

Bent the upper hose and welded the reducer on.

Testing out the bead roller on the scrap piece of tubing

Bead on the pipe

Welded bead on the small end, ugly, but should be fine

Test fitting, close to the filler neck, but will work.

Shrink pipe clamps

Lower hose, didn't have the right size shrink clamp for this one yet. Well, i did, but I used it on the upper one because I bought the wrong size for that one. Don't buy a 1 1/4 clamp for an 1 1/4 hose end, you gotta factor in the hose thickness...dumbass! I am a little worried about the lower hose being too soft, as it doesnt have a spring in it, but its only about 5" of hose between the inlet on the engine and the pipe within the hose. Hoping its not going to suck it shut, something I will have to keep an eye on.

 

[mano002]

I did this on my V8 swap and it worked fine. Without the bead, the hose was popping off.

Welded bead on the small end, ugly, but should be fine

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Damn this guy is making me look bad

FYI, you bought the wrong dewalt grinder. Look for the 11 Amp paddle style. We used them at my old work, and they're the best 4.5-5" grinder for the money in my experience.

Keep the a flap disc on the current one, you'll like having more than 1 grinder. I have 4

 

[TrailTamer]

For the throttle cable, I ditched the big contraption dodge uses. Just put the gm cable right to the pump. Made a little adapter that used the end from the rod that goes between the pump and the big assembly dodge used. Made it so the GM cable could slip into it, and then hook onto the throttle lever on the pump the way it did factory. Then just made a little bracket to hold the throttle cable.

What you’ll do about the cruise control?

 

[Levigarrett76]

berfore you toss the old grinder, check the brushes, you may be able to replace them and keep rolling


Nice ass truck mang

 

[BustedCrank]

Damn this guy is making me look bad

FYI, you bought the wrong dewalt grinder. Look for the 11 Amp paddle style. We used them at my old work, and they're the best 4.5-5" grinder for the money in my experience.

Keep the a flap disc on the current one, you'll like having more than 1 grinder. I have 4

I delayed starting the thread on it until I had something done, almost have you guys caught up to current progress, then it will slow down.

That was exactly my plan, leave a flap disc on this one, then grab another one without that damn button. You just made my decision easy on which one to get, thanks.

 

[BustedCrank]

What you’ll do about the cruise control?

I didn't, i pulled it out for now. I've never been one to use it, even driving cross country and such. It's always bothered me on every vehicle I've had how unsteady it is. Only time I really use it is when you get a crazy itch between your toes or something and need to pull your boot off to itch it, and that happens once every couple years maybe, so isn't a big priority for me right now.

I'd have to look again on if the cruise uses the ECM, or if it's its own unit. If it's its own setup, wouldn't be hard to put it back in there. If it needs the ECM, then I'd have to go aftermarket. I've seen a couple that would work. Don't remember the names off hand.

 

[BustedCrank]

berfore you toss the old grinder, check the brushes, you may be able to replace them and keep rolling


Nice ass truck mang

I tossed it, didn't even think about trying to fix it. It started making strange noises, then ran about half speed for a few minutes, then started going slower and slower over the next few minutes till it finally quit turning. The it smoked for about five minutes. I got my monies out of it, I believe I bought that one in 03.

And Thanks