Lets tear apart a perfectly good truck

[Projectjunkie]

Had....must not have been that good if you got rid of it!

Got divorced with 3 small kids, bought a ccsb duramax Allison to flip, and it was like a minivan, it could make u turns with a trailer with little girls fighting over a barbie in the backseat, low miles, figured I could put off repairs for years, so I sold the ford instead. It is what it is, it got me through a rough patch. The Chevy is still low miles and treats me well, though it's not the panty dropper the big truck was I've always kept a 12v truck around, I have a 2nd gen 2wd sitting here, and a 4wd zf6 that it will get with some SD axles at some point.

 

[BustedCrank]

Well damn, now I feel like an ass

 

[aczlan]

Прошу помощи ??
Не могу создать первое сообщение.
Спасибо.

Вы, кажется, преуспели не только с первым постом, но и со вторым. Я мог бы предложить разместить на английском языке, вы получите гораздо больше ответов, чем на русском языке.

Aaron Z

 

[Cheepin]

Probably, I didn't feel like doing the research and finding more parts, so I made it work with this one. Needed to keep the hose connection where it was, and figured any of those adapters would have that sensor.

Anybody know what it is/does anyway?

Not sure what it does. But when putting a 5.3 in my son's 87 suburban we swapped the fittings. Perfect swap.

 

[BustedCrank]

Found out later its a variable orifice for steering feel. Post #102

 

[BustedCrank]

Finished up the battery cables, I bought a hydraulic crimper (Temco th0005) and it seemed to do a fairly decent job. On the smaller gauges, like 10g or so, it would make little wings with the crimp. But that vary well may have been operator error using the wrong dies. This particular kit has multiple dies for some wire gauges, one is for use with thinner lugs, I don't remember which was which, so I probably used the wrong set. It was just one some of the ground straps going from the battery to the fender, so I'm not too worried about it. On the battery cables themselves, it did a good crimp, and i used two wraps of heat shrink over them as well.

Moving onto the headlights. The only thing that hit the cooler was the left/right adjuster. So I stared at it for a bit. Thought maybe I could flip it around on the bracket and make it work. So I took the adjuster out, had to cut off part of the corner to fit it on the inside. Had to cut part of the housing to get it to sit in there well enough, the screw would still catch the bottom half enough to pull the light in, or just push on the housing to push it out. Then cut the excess threads off so they didn't rub on the cooler.

The left side headlight didn't quite fit as well as the right side since the cooler is shifted to the driver side a little bit. The backside of the bulb was up against the cooler. Had to drill one hole in the mount/retainer to be able to spin it 100 degrees or so. Now it "mostly" clears.

Just a cheep 4" rubber elbow off amazon. And threw the 454s filter on it for test fitting purposes. Not going to be able to run a "BHAF" since I don't have the room. The next smaller donaldson is 8.5" in diameter, and that would be squished a little between the inner fender and the hood. I still need to find a good dry filter about the size of this one to get me by for now.

Big thanks to Lowrollin70gmc for sending me the early style washer fluid reservoir

 

[350TacoZilla]

Would you have room for a newer air box from a early duramax truck so you get a large flat panel filter?

 

[TrailTamer]

Would you have room for a newer air box from an early duramax truck so you get a large flat panel filter?

Or relocate the coolant reservoir and use 94-02’s tube?

 

[BustedCrank]

Would you have room for a newer air box from a early duramax truck so you get a large flat panel filter?

I had thought of that, but never got around to looking for measurements of them. I should probably get on that.

Or relocate the coolant reservoir and use 94-02’s tube?

I'd rather not relocate it, but that is an option I hadn't really considered. Not sure if it will clear with the AC compressor right there though.

Long term, I'd like to make an air pan to take advantage of the cowl hood that's on the truck. But that's just a thought bouncing around in the noodle right now.

 

[BustedCrank]

Finally got around to putting the new fender skirt on the driver side from LMC, as well as the chunk of rubber to cover up where I had to cut out the inner fender for the boot coming out of the charge air cooler. I think it came out cleaner looking then if I were to try and do it with sheetmetal. Especially since the rubber isn't new, so the dirty rubber matches the dirty wheelwell. I knew there was a reason I've been moving those rubber mats around for years!

Using a dakota digital SGI-1000BT to take place of the computer to run the tach and the speedo. Needs am ignition power, ground, the two wires from the VSS, wire going to the speedo itself, wire going to the tach, and a wire from the W terminal on the tach. Supposed to be pretty versatile, so hopefully it is able to get everything calibrated correctly. The VSS on this truck gives out 40 pulses per revolution of the tailshaft. The speedo wants a 4000 pulse per mile signal. Theres a few differnet options to setup up the box, so you need to know what signal its getting, and what the speedo is looking for. I got it all hooked up, and tried testing it with the app (its blutooth, makes it much easier to set up and calibrate then using the buttons on the box itself), but I couldn't get any responses from either gauge...damn. Dinked around with it for a while, trying different settings, different spots for the speedo output and still got nuthin. WTF. So I find a diagram of the pinout on the back of the cluster, pull the cluster to check and make sure I have the right wires, and I did. About this time I remembered that the voltage gauge wasnt reading when I turned the key on earlier as well, thought that was weird, but didn't think much of it at the time. But a light bulb finally came on to check the grounds for the cluster...nada. Well, shit, how'd i manage that? Theres two ground wires coming out of the back of the cluster but neither had a ground to the truck, they were connected to each other still though. So I'm looking under the dash around the junction block, looking for a ground that I forgot to put back on or accidently cut or something. Can't find anything, can't even see where the harness goes from the cluster cause it's so buried up in the dash. I look over and see the harness plug on the passenger side, behind the glove box, is still hanging there. Its the part of the engine harness that goes through the firewall on the passenger side. Surely it doesn't ground through that harness way over there...Well is sure as shit does! Plugged it in, put the cluster back together, turned on the dakota app and both the tests on the tach and speedo work just fine, voltage gauge works now too, imagine that!

Zip tied a switch on the shifter for the pacbrake. I did end up painting the switch black after the picture. This will work for now, i really like where its positioned, I can easily flip it either way with my thumb, or index finger. Pacbrake has a braket to mount a switch on the shifter, but it looks to big and bulky, and look like it holds it too far away from the shifter to be comfortable.

Got the dakota box stuffed up out of the way. Basically under the column, off to the side a little so the hose for the crotch vent isnt up against it.

Made a little bracket to hold two switches (aux fan and the pacbrake compressor), on the bottom of the dash out of sight, but easy to reach. Then as soon as i put the lower dash panel back on, I see the holes that the trailer brake controller uses to mount.

Got the interior all back together, now I can sit in it and make vroom vroom noises! Also learned it has a built in theft deterrent while bolting the seat back in. Can run the seat all the way forward and it will go up against the shifter holding it in first, could do that then pull the power seat fuse. Might get me an extra minute or two to catch any fucker that tries to take off with it.

 

[87manche]

depending on shifter threads and what not, maybe possible to install a shift knob from a MDT with a two speed rear switch or something.

 

[72Pstroke]

The older Ford 600's used a shifter mounted switch for the 2 speed that clamped onto the shifter right below the knob.
That is the plan for my Pacbrake.
Like this:

 

[BustedCrank]

depending on shifter threads and what not, maybe possible to install a shift knob from a MDT with a two speed rear switch or something.

Most those would be air wouldn't they?

The older Ford 600's used a shifter mounted switch for the 2 speed that clamped onto the shifter right below the knob.
That is the plan for my Pacbrake.
Like this:

If that's electric it would work, but I'd probably keep my little switch over that bulky thing. For a normal pacbrake setup that'd probably be fine, because you can basically flip the switch and leave it on the whole time. My setup isnt connected to a computer, or throttle, so I'll be flipping it between gears and everything else, it's literally just an on off switch on my truck.

 

[TrailTamer]

I toyed with the idea of to make switches with some sort of sensor tapped into TPS to detect idle, so the exhaust brake will automatically come on whenever the cruise control back all way off as if I’m towing and on a downhill to not over speed.

 

[reptillikus]

If youre trying to detect idle, why not just use a switch on the pedal assy? I dunno about the GMs but ford used an IVS on the accel pedal assy to detect when you were depressing the pedal, as a safety feature in case the throttle pedal sensor fails so it cant run away. Might be easy to adapt something like that.

 

[M92PV4U]

Most those would be air wouldn't they?



If that's electric it would work, but I'd probably keep my little switch over that bulky thing. For a normal pacbrake setup that'd probably be fine, because you can basically flip the switch and leave it on the whole time. My setup isnt connected to a computer, or throttle, so I'll be flipping it between gears and everything else, it's literally just an on off switch on my truck.

It's electronic. Two speed rear axle switch.

 

[TrailTamer]

If youre trying to detect idle, why not just use a switch on the pedal assy?

That defeat the purpose of cruise control.

 

[reptillikus]

Ooh, ok true, didn't think of that.

 

[BustedCrank]

Put some fluids in it the other day, came out the next day to a puddle on the floor, guess I'll be taking the pump back out for a new seal!

 

[BustedCrank]

I was planning on putting some Hella projectors I had in the fog light holes in the bumper. But they were too long to fit without hitting the body mount. I didn't want to put the ones that were in it back, because they weren't worth a shit for driving. They are better suited for utility lights on the trailer or something. So I ordered a set of Diode dynamics SS3 SAE Pro fog lights. I have a set of them on my K5 and really like them, so I got a set with the round bezel. Its a 4" bezel, and luckily the hole in the bumper is 4". I just had to make a little bracket.

I figured some might like this little bender I have. I got it from work after it had sat in the corner unused for the ten years I had worked there at the time. It's bent anything I've asked it to with ease. Most the little stuff I use it for I don't even need to put a bar in it to bend with, can just grab it by hand where you'd put a bar and bend it.

Just a piece of flat bar inserted.

Bent about 45 degrees

Full 90

I needed another 90 the other direction on the other end, had to move it up in the vise because on the bottom it was too wide for how short I needed between the bends. About 2 1/2' is as short as you can go between bends.

Worked out well enough.

 

[BustedCrank]

Finally getting around to doing AC lines. I've never dealt with AC before, other then getting rid of it. So I bought a crimper off amazon that had standard barrier, and reduced barrier dies.

And a bunch of hose and fittings from coldhose.com. Probably cheaper options out there, but their site was easy to find everything I needed, and they had everything I needed. Except for the one fitting it took me a while to find for the accumulator.

Originally I had bought a regular cast compressor fitting that just came straight out the back, well that wouldn't work because it would put it too close to the turbo to attach to the service port, and the switch. There's also the cast one that goes 90 degrees, but it would point to the passenger side fender, not ideal for the suction hose that comes out of the accumulator on the firewall pointing towards the drivers fender. So I got this "swivel" fitting. Anybody know how you're supposed to seal these compressor fittings to the compressor? Its just a flat surface. The cast one I got didn't come with any gasket or anything, the swivel head one came with a couple O rings that are too big to do anything. Wouldn't think RTV would be the right answer, but i'm not sure. If I were to do it again, I'd probably just get a whole new compressor head with the fitting where I wanted them. They are only about 35 dollars and come with the gasket to put them on.

First crimp, not OEM, but not bad.

First hose

Second hose

Third

Not much to see, but AC lines are done.

 

[BustedCrank]

With the AC lines done, I could finally get the grill fitted again. I thought I took pictures of what was cut, but I guess I didn't. Didn't take much really. Just had to cut a few of the center mounts off the filler piece that goes between the grill and the bumper. Had to clearence around the hood latch mount, and auxiliary fan. Also had to trim a hair off inside the grill around the fan. With that all on, could throw the park lights in it...or not. No way were those gonna fit, would need to cut the whole section that mounts the inner bulb out of there. Looked around and it seemed like the LED lights were a bit narrower, so I ordered a set with hopes of making those work. They are narrower, but still had to cut a section off. I was able to cut just the section off that sticks out, you can see the left side cut off in the picture. That was enough to clear the charge cooler. You could cut the back of the housing probably another inch if you needed to, it's just dead space in there.

All put back together. Nothing fits great. But, it didn't before either, actually think the headlights are better then before. But that's to be expected with all aftermarket parts. Need to clean up those headlights I guess, They look pretty nasty next to those new park lights.

 

[BustedCrank]

I'm not a huge fan of the LED signals in the front as far as looks go, I think the clear ones with the amber bulbs looked cleaner, but they just weren't an option anymore. And they are not as bright as I thought they'd be. The LED turn signals I bought were supposed to not cause the fast blinker action, they came with the big boxes that plug into them that I thought were resistors. Apparently they aren't for that, cause they caused the hyper flash. I threw the bulbs back in place just to make sure it wasn't something I screwed up, and those worked fine. Went searching for an LED flasher relay and all of them seemed to have issues from delays when turning the signal on, burning up when hooking up to a trailer, to just not working at all. I did come across a review of one that said "what a waste of money when I could have modified my stock one for free." Wait, you can do that? Time to search the webs...Turns out you can!

I couldn't find anything specific to this particular relay. But kinda figured out the basics. Basically there's a microprocessor that senses the amperage difference and triggers the hyper flash. I thought It was just the amperage difference itself that caused it to flash faster. Anyway, just needed to cut the power from the shunt resistor to the microprocessor. If it works, great, if not, I needed to buy one of those LED relays anyway. So worth a shot.

Power comes into the relay, into the shunt resistor (the U bolt looking thing). From what I can tell you have to cut the feed between the shunt and the processor. Follow the lines carefully, double check what all is going where. I used an exacto knife. All the relays are a little different, but that seems to be the basic idea. You cut that and the processor doesnt know the amperage has changed, so it doesn't trigger the hyper flash. I threw it back in the truck and success! No more hyper flash.

 

[BustedCrank]

Waiting for a seal for the steering pump to fix that leak. Primed the fuel system with the pump after throwing on a new filter, had a loose fitting under the truck where I tied into the existing hard line. Need to dig out the rear axle and move the truck around so I can get the rear end out from under the truck and start swapping spring, shock, and the airbag mounts over. Need to figure out which yoke I need for the rear axle still as well. Then I can get driveshafts made.

 

[aczlan]

So I got this "swivel" fitting. Anybody know how you're supposed to seal these compressor fittings to the compressor? Its just a flat surface. The cast one I got didn't come with any gasket or anything, the swivel head one came with a couple O rings that are too big to do anything. Wouldn't think RTV would be the right answer, but i'm not sure. If I were to do it again, I'd probably just get a whole new compressor head with the fitting where I wanted them. They are only about 35 dollars and come with the gasket to put them on

This fitting? Should seal with the oring you have against the "step" that the nut pushes against.

First crimp, not OEM, but not bad.

Aaron Z

 

[BustedCrank]

The compressor manifold I guess is the right term for it. Bolts to the back of the compressor head that the hoses connect to.

Like this.

Or this, this is the one I'm using

 

[aczlan]

Something like this perhaps? Orings where the red circles are:

Something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Adapter-Fittings-Sealing-451‑1105/dp/B08VDFS2LL

Aaron Z

 

[BustedCrank]

Yeah, that's what I figured. The green orings that came with were way too big, they just squish out and wouldn't seal anything. Guess I just need to get some smaller ones. Or maybe I just cranked them down way too tight.

I'm guessing those other metal ring ones are for manifolds with a stepped section like the amazon ones you pictured. Here's the backside of those ones, they have a step whereas mine are flat.

 

[Lowrollin70gmc]

They should take the metal/o ring combination. Might be called a bonded O ring?

The ones on the right of this picture:

Edit: I have the exact same swivel as you're using and that's what mine came with. Also pretty sure I've used that style on most GM compressors I've replaced.

 

[aczlan]

They should take the metal/o ring combination. Might be called a bonded O ring?

The ones on the right of this picture:

Edit: I have the exact same swivel as you're using and that's what mine came with. Also pretty sure I've used that style on most GM compressors I've replaced.

Exactly, the green o-rings have to be blocked in on all sides or they will squish out.
They would go inside the end where I have the green circle below.
The black bonded o-rings can sit on a flat surface and seal on both sides because they have the metal lip to constrain them and keep them from squishing out, they would go where I have the black semicircle:

Aaron Z