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Lame small tire build

skyhiranger said:
Lock-Rights front and rear with twin sticks FTW. That is my setup and it is awesome.
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How old are they?

I drove a samurai a few times with lock rites f&r and they were basically Unnoticeable. I believe they had been in the rig a while and maybe a little worn in?

My front is a spartan that was new a few years ago. They've been great in heavier rigs, but this one is stubborn to unlock sometimes.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
How old are they?

I drove a samurai a few times with lock rites f&r and they were basically Unnoticeable. I believe they had been in the rig a while and maybe a little worn in?

My front is a spartan that was new a few years ago. They've been great in heavier rigs, but this one is stubborn to unlock sometimes.
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The rear one has been in since 2007. The front one was installed in 2008ish. Ever since I put them in, they have worked perfectly. I have never had issues with them not unlocking or locking when they are supposed to, like I see so many people complain about.
Even with lock rights, the twin sticks were the real game changers, when it comes to turning short. I ran many amateur comps and the maneuverability of a stock wheelbase samurai with lock rights and twin sticks was unmatched. So many times I needed to turn short, while moving slowly, but didn't need 4wd.
 
Got the zuk back together and ready for a wheeling trip tomorrow.

The interesting and frustrating thing is that the TRE4x4 wiring harness I used won’t allow you to engage the front locker unless the rear is engaged. I guess ARB harnesses are like this too? Seems pretty dumb. I know factory LC80’s and Rubicons are like this with with elockers but i don’t see the point.
 
Yes, the factory ARB harness is set up that way for the same reason factory installations interlock the front with the rear - you can't "accidentally" engage the front only and end up with next to no steering without dilberate action (locking the rear first)
 
Shake down wheeling today, super dusty and there about 12 rigs in our group. Several stockish JK’s so we didn’t hit a lot of hard stuff.

I don’t take many pics unfortunately. Guess I’m not like some wheelers who constantly film everything.

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One guy did get pretty adventurous and destroyed an aluminum driveline

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Fees like I have a lot of slop or play in the tcase in 4Lo. Wonder if I didn’t shim it enough when I rebuilt it or if they all seem like that?
 
The aluminum twists up really nice :laughing:

Shifter slop or drivetrain slop?

Shifter slop is just worn shifter, bushing, or rod. Nothing to really worry about imo.
 
Feels like drivetrain slop, like front output slip. Which makes me wonder if the output shins are wrong.no issues with the shifter
 
had some brackets cut for some cheap Auxbeams I had sitting around, these are pretty old but still work. Amazon tells me i bought these lights in 2016

I have more of these brackets if anyone wants a pair, they fit around the Roadless Gear aluminum windshield hinges perfectly. spacing is tight but they work and look pretty ok


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YotaAtieToo said:
Have you used them yet? I always figured they would just glare up the hood like crazy.
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Just in the driveway and maybe it’s the flat camo paint but I didn’t not a lot of hood glare.

Now I’m all oVeRLaNdEr with my “ditch lights”

They are surprisingly bright for only being 18w and only 6 led’s.
 
SKULLYOTA said:
Just in the driveway and maybe it’s the flat camo paint but I didn’t not a lot of hood glare.

Now I’m all oVeRLaNdEr with my “ditch lights”

They are surprisingly bright for only being 18w and only 6 led’s.
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Interesting, I have the same hinges, but not sure if I'd want lights there. I'd be curious if you find them useful or not.

I messed around with a handful of different Amazon led's on my 4runner because I did a lot of night snow runs. They were all bright, it was just a matter of if they went very far or not and if they lasted very long.

I liked these single 10w units for being bright, but small, can get flood or spot.

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I finally joined a club again, been a long time since I’ve been in one and actually have a work schedule where I can go to meetings and runs

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I was given some free radios recently too, tracked down a NMO cable and a cheap open-box Tram antenna from eBay. Tried to mount it where it would get good ground plane off the hood but not be vulnerable. Well see how long it takes for a tree branch to damage it


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Now that the mornings are getting a little colder, I'm increasingly frustrated with the 3K carburetor's terrible cold start performance. I mean the 32/36 weber was amazing at cold starting by comparison. The 3k carb also just seems to suck all around. I woulda thrown the Weber back on but my two-piece adapter (stupid idea) has a stripped hole. :mad3:


So I found this carb on Ebay that is supposedly a Hyundai Pony carb. However it looks a little different than other hyundai pony carb's I've seen and no rebuild kit I can find looks like it has the right gasket shapes....and its a vacuum secondary so that worries me, that big diaphragm won't last forever. I took it apart and cleaned it and just put it back together with the same gaskets.

Ack's FAQ still has the install guide with pics too:grinpimp:

However i don't have long enough 8mm studs to bolt it on so installing it will wait another day. :(

It is identical in height to the 3K carb too

Shitty pics:
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Kinda cool that it has the sight glass for the float bowl.


Anyone have any ideas for rebuild kit? This is probably an 1982 or 83 carb from what I can guess?

If this turns out to be a turd then i might try the Weber 34 ICH (single barrel) that i have, or find a decent Nikki carb since those also fit the same bolt pattern and are more common.
 
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This is the float bowl gasket pattern if anyone’s Google-fu is better than mine

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I do like playing with carbs….they’re simple.

As far as big purchases for this rig, I’ll do 6.5’s/6.4’s before I buy a 1bbl Holley sniper though. MG people have been using them on 1.5L engines with good results that I’ve seen.
 
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