What's new
By:
Filters

Just Joined the Forklift Club :smokin:

Rovercj8 said:
Did you buy it? It's not being advertised anymore.
Click to expand...
Wasn't me.

I'm sick and it's cold and it's a long drive and I'd have to borrow a truck and trailer and we're having company this weekend and I agreed to help a friend redo his entire house drain system and I have to work an extra shift before my regular run starts on Wednesday.

Fawk it, I'm pooped.
 
Knowing nothing about forklifts, I am not convinced you missed out. The paint job hack just screams the thing has other hidden issues - bubble gum somewhere, eggs in the radiator, all the good stuff.

Seriously, the paint job pisses me off on what looks like a nice-ish machine. Metallic blue?! Couldn't even spring for a can of black paint, even if some tape was too expensive?
 
budget76 said:
Seriously, the paint job pisses me off on what looks like a nice-ish machine. Metallic blue?! Couldn't even spring for a can of black paint, even if some tape was too expensive?
Click to expand...
:shaking:

Dude, it's a piece of equipment, not a restored classic car. The point of the paint is 99% to keep rust off and 1% for contrast so you're visible.
 
budget76 said:
Knowing nothing about forklifts, I am not convinced you missed out. The paint job hack just screams the thing has other hidden issues - bubble gum somewhere, eggs in the radiator, all the good stuff.

Seriously, the paint job pisses me off on what looks like a nice-ish machine. Metallic blue?! Couldn't even spring for a can of black paint, even if some tape was too expensive?
Click to expand...
my forklift has a hand brushed red thing going on
I guess it makes it faster

I don't care, it lifts stuff
 
arse_sidewards said:
:shaking:

Dude, it's a piece of equipment, not a restored classic car. The point of the paint is 99% to keep rust off and 1% for contrast so you're visible.
Click to expand...
i get it, I did the same on my truck to slow down the rust. but that's worth more than any car I've owned. I'd at least spend the $5 for a damn can of black paint and make it look like something worth buying
 
I was using the Clark to hold up a trailer to redo the lights the other day. The lift creep is really annoying.

Two questions:

First off what is the procedure to determine where the creep is happening? I was thinking I could install a ball valve between the valve bank and the lift cylinder. Lift the mast and shut the ball valve and see if it's still creeping, that would tell me if it's the cylinder or the valve. There's also a return hose at the top of the lift cylinder. Since there's no down pressure, I think it is to return any fluid that leaked past the piston seals, so could I disconnect that line and let it creep a couple times and then see if any fluid comes out when I do a full raise (forcing any leaked fluid out the hose)?

Second, is there a safe way to "brick" the forklift so I could work under a load safely. Like lift a trailer overhead, then secure the mast so it cannot drop even if the hydraulics fail?
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
I was using the Clark to hold up a trailer to redo the lights the other day. The lift creep is really annoying.

Two questions:

First off what is the procedure to determine where the creep is happening? I was thinking I could install a ball valve between the valve bank and the lift cylinder. Lift the mast and shut the ball valve and see if it's still creeping, that would tell me if it's the cylinder or the valve. There's also a return hose at the top of the lift cylinder. Since there's no down pressure, I think it is to return any fluid that leaked past the piston seals, so could I disconnect that line and let it creep a couple times and then see if any fluid comes out when I do a full raise (forcing any leaked fluid out the hose)?

Second, is there a safe way to "brick" the forklift so I could work under a load safely. Like lift a trailer overhead, then secure the mast so it cannot drop even if the hydraulics fail?
Click to expand...
"lift creep" is confusing me. Is it creeping up when idle or just slowly leaking down?

Mine will leak down, but only in certain spots along the height of the first stage. Like yesterday I was using it as a grinding bench. It was a little above comfortable grinding height, but wasn't leaking down. I dropped it down about 9" and of course that put it in a spot where it wanted to keep going. So as I'm grinding the piece, it's slowly getting lower and lower. :laughing:

I kind of assume I have a worn spot in the cylinder(s) where they let a little juice by the seals.


You should be able to watch it and see which cylinders are bleeding down to try to isolate it, but I'm kind of on the assumption that a little bypass is normal for older and clapped out machines.



As far as working under the load....you probably shouldn't. I'd look more at buying or building some tall jack stands to support the trailer once you have it in the air. You could probably cut some steel channel or something to jam in the mast to wedge it up, but it's still not really safe.
 
bgaidan said:
"lift creep" is confusing me. Is it creeping up when idle or just slowly leaking down?

Mine will leak down, but only in certain spots along the height of the first stage. Like yesterday I was using it as a grinding bench. It was a little above comfortable grinding height, but wasn't leaking down. I dropped it down about 9" and of course that put it in a spot where it wanted to keep going. So as I'm grinding the piece, it's slowly getting lower and lower. :laughing:

I kind of assume I have a worn spot in the cylinder(s) where they let a little juice by the seals.


You should be able to watch it and see which cylinders are bleeding down to try to isolate it, but I'm kind of on the assumption that a little bypass is normal for older and clapped out machines.



As far as working under the load....you probably shouldn't. I'd look more at buying or building some tall jack stands to support the trailer once you have it in the air. You could probably cut some steel channel or something to jam in the mast to wedge it up, but it's still not really safe.
Click to expand...
Leaking down. That's a neat idea about it maybe being different spots on the lift cylinder. I could set it to full height and set my gopro to timelapse while it leaked all the way to the ground.

I've heard that sometimes they leak faster when unloaded as the pressure in the hydraulics helps to seat the seals.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
First off what is the procedure to determine where the creep is happening? I was thinking I could install a ball valve between the valve bank and the lift cylinder. Lift the mast and shut the ball valve and see if it's still creeping, that would tell me if it's the cylinder or the valve. There's also a return hose at the top of the lift cylinder. Since there's no down pressure, I think it is to return any fluid that leaked past the piston seals, so could I disconnect that line and let it creep a couple times and then see if any fluid comes out when I do a full raise (forcing any leaked fluid out the hose)?
Click to expand...
I would start with the return hose and go from there.
Muckin_Slusher said:
Second, is there a safe way to "brick" the forklift so I could work under a load safely. Like lift a trailer overhead, then secure the mast so it cannot drop even if the hydraulics fail?
Click to expand...
Couple of 4x4s jammed under the carriage and strapped to the mast, then lower the carriage onto them?

Aaron Z
 
cross posting with the Craigslist thread. $1000 forklift in southern CT

Log into Facebook
1639165006816.png
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
I was using the Clark to hold up a trailer to redo the lights the other day. The lift creep is really annoying.

Two questions:

First off what is the procedure to determine where the creep is happening? I was thinking I could install a ball valve between the valve bank and the lift cylinder. Lift the mast and shut the ball valve and see if it's still creeping, that would tell me if it's the cylinder or the valve. There's also a return hose at the top of the lift cylinder. Since there's no down pressure, I think it is to return any fluid that leaked past the piston seals, so could I disconnect that line and let it creep a couple times and then see if any fluid comes out when I do a full raise (forcing any leaked fluid out the hose)?

Second, is there a safe way to "brick" the forklift so I could work under a load safely. Like lift a trailer overhead, then secure the mast so it cannot drop even if the hydraulics fail?
Click to expand...
i use pipe stand to put under the forks. i wouldn't trust any lift to work under without a possitive mechanical stop, or lock like a car lift has. (or pipe stands like i use) the chance whatever happening and causing a line to fail and killing whatever is under it is a real concern.

almost all of these older lifts have cylinders that are flat worn out, and usually not worth the cost to replace them. i removed my lift cylinders and took them to a shop where i was told they aren't worth saving, well i did a seal kit on them, cost les then 50$, and its wat better. have been running that lift that way for 5ish years.

what i'm really not looking forward to is replaceing the lines on my raymond reach fork. they run on a spring loaded reel and are looking like i should get tto them before i 'need' to. i'll look into that another day when i have enough time to spare:lmao:
 
tracyb said:
almost all of these older lifts have cylinders that are flat worn out, and usually not worth the cost to replace them. i removed my lift cylinders and took them to a shop where i was told they aren't worth saving, well i did a seal kit on them, cost les then 50$, and its wat better. have been running that lift that way for 5ish years.
Click to expand...
if they're big enough bore, get you a lisle rigid cylinder hone and you can hone the barrel(s) yourself
chromed rod stock is usually stocked local in any "big" city metal yard if you've got a garred up rod
 
Just be careful out there, a guy in town was working on the motor of his backhoe and used 4x4 to rest the bucket on....the wood ended up not holding the bucket up and he was crushed between the bucket and the floor. Yes this happened. I have also seen a fork snap on a skid steer while carrying a load of cement blocks.
 
Trying to join the club still, found what appears to be a Hyster H50H with a blown head gasket but can’t tell if I can get parts. He’s selling it for parts, what says IBB? I’ll need to find/borrow a truck and trailer as it’s 140miles away but for $1000 I think it’s worth a gamble.
 

Attachments

  • 56B9B480-2A85-4728-9756-6D58A0BE6570.jpeg
    56B9B480-2A85-4728-9756-6D58A0BE6570.jpeg
    295.3 KB · Views: 31
  • 3D1244EE-D4CB-4C06-AD6F-A52B35AE4272.jpeg
    3D1244EE-D4CB-4C06-AD6F-A52B35AE4272.jpeg
    237.1 KB · Views: 30
  • BCE93EB7-C378-4803-8B0A-709A6BFD9FA8.jpeg
    BCE93EB7-C378-4803-8B0A-709A6BFD9FA8.jpeg
    225.4 KB · Views: 28
Get it and pray the bottom end isn't destroyed badly and plan on doing a ghetto rebuild if it is.
 
Google says its a Ford 172....likely the same in Ford and NH tractors. I'd imagine parts a readily available.
 
I don't have any first hand experience.with that model, but one came up for sale near me a couple years ago and my limited research says the trannys are shit.

That's all I got
 
4Eyedturd said:
Trying to join the club still, found what appears to be a Hyster H50H with a blown head gasket but can’t tell if I can get parts. He’s selling it for parts, what says IBB? I’ll need to find/borrow a truck and trailer as it’s 140miles away but for $1000 I think it’s worth a gamble.
Click to expand...
I went to an auction that had a very similar hyster for sale but had dual front wheels. Unknown condition, was setting outside for awhile but looked complete, engine wasn't frozen, still had coolant in the rad. It sold for $5.
 
Not much of a song after what it cost you to rent that trailer. Uhaul 5x9 single axle would have taken it like a champ.

I'm serious.
 
nice
little dude

really gotta get my ass on making more outdoor concrete to run mine on
 
Blacksheep10 said:
Allis Chalmers! We are an Allis farm so I love seeing all the shit they used to make, like generators for dams etc, tons of weird industrial shit.
Click to expand...

In the late 90's I worked on some Allis Chalmers electrical distribution gear at a Cargill facility.
 
I guess I never posted them in this thread, but I somehow ended up with a fleet over the summer. The green 5k is my original that I bought when I was moving here. The two yellows are 6k and were free, plus the cost of renting a couple trailers to move them. One ran right of the box and the other needed a radiator, fan and a TPS, but we were still able to start and drive it. Technically one of the 6k ones belongs to a buddy, but, you know, it's mine until he claims it. :laughing:

1673301710368.png

1673301747355.png

1673301822486.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh