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Jeep CJ-7 full EV conversion

As a crude example let's use a make believe trophy truck.....

Truck weights 10k race ready and has a 60 gallon fuel cell so of that 10k we are talking roughly 420lbs in fuel. It makes 900hp and gets 4.5 mpg and has a range of about 270 miles running wide open throttle.

How much weight in battery packs would it take to supply 900hp to the electric motor for 270 miles at say an average speed of 70mph?
Hay SLOWPOKE693 , the pocket protector crowd would like to know:
Ask what kind of torque they have and what fuel they burn?

- Patrick
 
With an electric motor it is not really about the power band as much as it is the efficiency map. Low speed high torque is very low efficiency. High speed, moderate torque tends to be the happy zone. If I remember, I'll track down the hyper9 efficiency data later.
- Found them:
1728066209147.png


There's a lot of happy spots in this motor!

400 is not as scary as it sounds. But you may have to step away from the Tesla packs if you go that route, switching for a module with higher voltage but less amp hours.
- You're right, BUT, at a very steep price $$$. Battery technology is moving at warp speed, solid state batteries are knocking at the door of reality. My plan is to make my Kits as modular as possible so as to give future advances a way to plug in without starting over. Tesla packs are available, reliable and coming down in price so I'll stick with them till the next thing comes out.

- Oh, and 400 volts is scary as shit - wear gloves when dealing with any part of High Voltage.


- Patrick
I do not know if the Hyper9's map is out there but here is the map from a YASA 750. They have since changed their website and i can no longer find the pdf I snipped it from.
1728089427440.png


The drop offs at low rpm and low torque is normal for all electric motors.

No reason not to stick with what is out there and working.

Don't get me wrong, you should always be on edge when working with HV. You just take it slow, pay attention, and have someone ready to pull your body off using a fiberglass broom:shocked:. I work on a couple of HV systems on a daily basis. It used to be a 400V normally, but the last 2 years or so has been predominantly 800V. Battery chemistry scares me more than voltage. Lithium is much spicier than lead acid.

Regarding the kit, how much is it weld in vs bolt in? And what plans do you have regarding keeping the shade tree hack job swapping his rust bucket from frying himself?
 
Does this thing drive through a clutch? I get that you just put it in gear and go but I can't imagine T-5 ir T-176 internals like to spin as high as the motor is capable of.
It also seems like the torque load on the input shaft in third would break stuff upstream of the driven gear when crawling. Just my engineer brain doing mental math and knowing how small that input is.

It's pretty cool, It has me debating gathering parts to stockpile for my CJ7
Ya, I could picture an unsavvy buyer stuffing the trans into first gear and running it up to 55-60mph and blowing it up because the electric motor will allow that to happen without flinching.

You would almost need a sensor on the transmission telling the electronics what gear the transmission is in and have it limit RPM/speed based on gear selection to keep that from happening.
Typically RPM is limited by the motor controller. Really not a big issue. The motor he is using is limited to about 7000.
 
NO, I never got the drive around in a circle thing that NASCAR has perfected. Even with my first CJ-5a, I always kept them quite, how else would you get your night time golf course driving in???


Here's a bit from KOH's Wiki page:
The first official race was in 2008, though no spectators were present. Approximately 50 drivers took part.[8] Race teams started in 30-second intervals from Means Dry Lake bed and navigated through the desert on a 50–60 mile set race course to their first rock course.

And now, there's 80,000 to 100,000 attendees - please, poop on the EV side of that all you want, that ain't gonna change or go away.

Hay, THANK YOU for sticking with it and replying - very cool of you!


- Patrick

So you have little to no experience I motorpsorts? Whether it be F1, NHRA, even local dirt track, or tractor pull?

Don't wiki me about the OG13, or an event that I have been to... and you've never attended. :flipoff2:
TRINDU - you wrote this:
Embrace the novelty, not the 'advantages over ICE' especially at that price point. I'd try to sort put a direct drive from motor to tcase. All push button.

I thought I'd break that out to reply...

I worked on this idea also, remove the Transmission completely and go to the TC directly.

Pro's
  • Simplier,
  • give you extra space for battery modules since you can tuck the motor into the bellhousing well,
  • less parts.

Con's
  • You are stuck with only 1:1 plus your diff ratio - that's bad for EVs
  • You can't get enough rpm to the wheel that way, lots of torque, no speed forward
  • You rob the crawler and stuck bastard from being able to be in 1st and TC Lo to get unstuck
  • Shifting is fun
  • Complicated adapter to get it to work
  • GREATLY reduces the drivers options for gearing

Lastly, on my build, I specifically and deliberately stayed away from this whole modern concept that you, the driver, are but a tiny part of the driving experience. That's not how I enjoy my Jeep. When I drive my Jeep, I'm doin' stuff, driving, not sitting back and staring out the (non-existent) window.

Right now, I've locked the motor out of Reverse, you have to use your transmission to go backwards, no button to push. To start the Jeep, you use your stock key in the stock key switch. The only new 'button' is the 3 position switch for picking the Profile you want (No Regen, Light Regen and Heavy Regen). I think the 4xe Jeeps have 4 Profiles and the new Rivian Tri (3 motors) has 19 Profiles (WHAT?!?).

No, when you get in my CJ-EV rig, it's just an old crappy Jeep that runs on electrons instead of gas..

I have experience driving just about every <$100k EV out there. They have their place in today's society. Look at Tesla sales vs whatever shit GM, Toyota, etc try to kick out. Taking one of the mass produced models, making it an EV, has been a proven record for a [sales] disaster. It's merely a proof of concept... looking at you Ford 'lightning'. Meanwhile, Tesla is still cranking them out because they incorporated a change in driver input, to the motoring experience. Creating a different level of interaction.

On that tesla note, they have fixed gearing? Why can't you? How's it drive I you just throw in in 4th and let it eat.

I'm not 'pooping' on the sacred EV. I'm sure there's 12, maybe a bakers dozen, circle jerking about a CJ-EV for a tidy $50k all in... I would want actual EV tech incorporated. Not a $40k engine and the rest AMC engineering.
 
What you want to believe about EV and what the reality is seem to be worlds apart. Your vehicle WILL NOT have more range offroad than it's ICE counterpart and saying that like it's fact in this thread doesn't help your case at all. I wish you all the luck in the world with this venture but from the outside looking in I don't see this being viable.

Until an EV can go the same distance as it's ICE counterpart (AT THE SAME WEIGHT) in one charge and can be recharged as fast as an ICE engine can be fueled up you will not be seeing EVs in motorsports competitively. It's all just a novelty and will not catch on until battery technology improves by leaps and bounds beyond where they are at now.

As a crude example let's use a make believe trophy truck.....

Truck weights 10k race ready and has a 60 gallon fuel cell so of that 10k we are talking roughly 420lbs in fuel. It makes 900hp and gets 4.5 mpg and has a range of about 270 miles running wide open throttle.

How much weight in battery packs would it take to supply 900hp to the electric motor for 270 miles at say an average speed of 70mph?
We all know that for fast trail riding and racing batteries are a joke. And not even a good one. On road, batteries will not be able to out distance gas for decades if ever. And it is even worse for any continuous high power demand application. For your trophy truck example, the power needs grow faster than a battery pack's energy.

But let's not compare apples and bananas.

In a slow trail rig, range does not matter. The time on the trail does. In most trail situations, that time is only a day or two of putting along. Think of something like the Rubicon trail. It has already been documented that an older light 4x4 with an EV swap can run that trail on about 2/3's the amount of energy as his CJ has. The more your wheeling group waits to clear each obstacle, the better an EV compares.
 
On that tesla note, they have fixed gearing? Why can't you?
Power, torque, and RPM demands. The offroad torque demands at stop and the RPM range for highway speeds results in a motor that has a lot of horsepower. There is a reason that a Ford Lighting has 450+ hp, a Rivian has 530+ hp, and the Cybertruxk has 600+ hp. Lower power means shifting. No different than an ICE.
 
I do not know if the Hyper9's map is out there but here is the map from a YASA 750. They have since changed their website and i can no longer find the pdf I snipped it from.
1728089427440.png


The drop offs at low rpm and low torque is normal for all electric motors.

No reason not to stick with what is out there and working.

Don't get me wrong, you should always be on edge when working with HV. You just take it slow, pay attention, and have someone ready to pull your body off using a fiberglass broom:shocked:. I work on a couple of HV systems on a daily basis. It used to be a 400V normally, but the last 2 years or so has been predominantly 800V. Battery chemistry scares me more than voltage. Lithium is much spicier than lead acid.

Regarding the kit, how much is it weld in vs bolt in? And what plans do you have regarding keeping the shade tree hack job swapping his rust bucket from frying himself?
Trust me, I've got a very healthy respect for the volts, all of them.

Re: Weld in vs bolt in (modular) - not sure, maybe cheaper for the first one but much much cheaper once you have the exact parts for the next one.

Don't forget, you can't fix welded in, you're stuck with it. The thought never crossed my mind. But, don't let me stop you, weld away my friend!
 
Typically RPM is limited by the motor controller. Really not a big issue. The motor he is using is limited to about 7000.
Correct, the inverter controls the motor.

Nope, my Hyper9HV tops out at 10,000 rpm. I lock it to about 6000 inside the controller via software.
 
So you have little to no experience I motorpsorts? Whether it be F1, NHRA, even local dirt track, or tractor pull?

Don't wiki me about the OG13, or an event that I have been to... and you've never attended. :flipoff2:


I have experience driving just about every <$100k EV out there. They have their place in today's society. Look at Tesla sales vs whatever shit GM, Toyota, etc try to kick out. Taking one of the mass produced models, making it an EV, has been a proven record for a [sales] disaster. It's merely a proof of concept... looking at you Ford 'lightning'. Meanwhile, Tesla is still cranking them out because they incorporated a change in driver input, to the motoring experience. Creating a different level of interaction.

On that tesla note, they have fixed gearing? Why can't you? How's it drive I you just throw in in 4th and let it eat.

I'm not 'pooping' on the sacred EV. I'm sure there's 12, maybe a bakers dozen, circle jerking about a CJ-EV for a tidy $50k all in... I would want actual EV tech incorporated. Not a $40k engine and the rest AMC engineering.
Hay, I get it, you don't like it - it's ok, I promise.

Change sucks and this is just to much change for some. Other then the silly dick measuring attempt in your reply, I can't tell you enough how much I appreciate your honesty.

My business plan will obviously require me to be with and interact with Jeep owners of all stripes, so listening to your thoughts makes me smarter, teaches me what I have to pay attention to, how I need to understand and respect the dislike.

If you have any real thoughts or questions, please, I would love to answer.

- Patrick
 
Power, torque, and RPM demands. The offroad torque demands at stop and the RPM range for highway speeds results in a motor that has a lot of horsepower. There is a reason that a Ford Lighting has 450+ hp, a Rivian has 530+ hp, and the Cybertruxk has 600+ hp. Lower power means shifting. No different than an ICE.
Yeah, that's mostly correct, yep. The shifting part is not exactly correct but who cares.

Man, I would love one of those R1S Rivians.
 
Slipped in a quick video right at dusk. So torquey.
 
Hay SLOWPOKE693 , the pocket protector crowd would like to know:
Ask what kind of torque they have and what fuel they burn?

- Patrick

Let's call it 750ft lbs of torque and most likely some race fuel like VP Q16 or similar.


Sorry for the late response, I was out to dinner with the wife.
 
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Hay, I get it, you don't like it - it's ok, I promise.

Change sucks and this is just to much change for some. Other then the silly dick measuring attempt in your reply, I can't tell you enough how much I appreciate your honesty.

My business plan will obviously require me to be with and interact with Jeep owners of all stripes, so listening to your thoughts makes me smarter, teaches me what I have to pay attention to, how I need to understand and respect the dislike.

If you have any real thoughts or questions, please, I would love to answer.

- Patrick

If people like us who are into wheeling and trail riding of all kinds who have no problem dumping retarded amounts of money into vehicles to make them do things and go places they really shouldn't go think that your idea isn't viable, then who is your target market just those with more money than sense?


I bet over half the members of this board have 1 or more Jeeps in their possession that are mild trail/daily driver type rigs that your very kit would drop into. Nobody seems to beating the door down to get in here though.... Again, not trying to be a dick, just trying to give you an outside looking in perspective of what I see from my house.
 
If people like us who are into wheeling and trail riding of all kinds who have no problem dumping retarded amounts of money into vehicles to make them do things and go places they really shouldn't go think that your idea isn't viable, then who is your target market just those with more money than sense?


I bet over half the members of this board have 1 or more Jeeps in their possession that are mild trail/daily driver type rigs that your very kit would drop into. Nobody seems to beating the door down to get in here though.... Again, not trying to be a dick, just trying to give you an outside looking in perspective of what I see from my house.
It's not that I think you're a dick, I mean, you are, clearly and intentionally being one, it's that you seem to think I'm somehow outside of your vin diagram.

I'm 60, my first vehicle at 15 was a bright Yellow 1969 Flat Head 4-cyl CJ-5a with a 3 speed that never once complained.

Since that time, I've NEVER been without at least one CJ or Wrangler or Grand Waggoneer to my name and in my garage. 11 CJ's and Wranglers and 3 Grand Waggoneers in total (god, I miss those).

I was ONLY talking about YOU, not the larger Irate group who you apparently speak for.

Again, if it was free to you, what bit of it would you choose to piss on first?

As for being a dick, I'm a grown ass man, I'm new to the campfire, I can take a couple pokes from the hot marshmallow stick, it's cool.
 
In the free scenario the range and recharge time is what I'd piss all over and battery technology is something you have no control over and what turns us ICE loving knuckle dragers off about EVs


I can carry a Jerry can of gas in an ICE vehicle and be on my way in a few minutes at most, what do I do with an EV I thought could make the trail and now I'm out of juice? Do I carry a generator AND fuel to be safe or will AAA bring me a charger?
 
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Can it be made so it's quiet like a golf cart? Looks fun but sounds like my fuel pump
Laughing my ass off!

It actually does have that electric commuter train sound, it's true, it's true!

It's one of the things you have to adjust to, it sounds different, very quiet, a golf cart does come to mind! I found the lack of any engine noise harder to get used to then the new sound from the motor.

That and when you come to a stop, it's completely still, as if you drove your ICE rig to a stop light and turned it off and just sat there.

It's unnerving at first. I remember thinking over and over, with cars behind me at the stop light, 'what if it doesn't keep going, I'll have fugged everyone's day up...' - that never happened but sitting there, all still and off, it feels like that at first.
 
In the free scenario the range and recharge time is what I'd piss all over and battery technology is something you have no control over and what turns us ICE loving knuckle dragers off about EVs


I can carry a Jerry can of gas in an ICE vehicle and be on my way in a few minutes at most, what do I do with an EV I thought could make the trail and now I'm out of juice? Do I carry a generator AND fuel to be safe or will AAA bring me a charger?
Oh Man, good ones!

Range on road is about 110 miles, less so on highway then surface streets due to regen. The average person in the US drives less then 48 miles per day. Obviously, just like all things in life, this might not work for your needs. But, for most, that works. I can tell you honestly, I think it sucks but remember, the stock CJ/Wranglers only get about 180 - 210 miles with a 20 gal tank so, it's not like it's that big a difference for such a crappy MPG vehicle to begin with.

One thing you do that's different, you charge when you can, mostly at home if you can. So, you get in your EV Jeep, dive to get lunch or whatever, head home, plug in. Yes, you have to have a home JuiceBox or a portable one that plugs into your cloths dryer outlet. Many states have free charge port at home programs. Or, you charge overnight, but mostly, you get used to plugging in so you're always filled up.

Off road, full disclosure I have done very little with this Jeep yet, is very promising. Qualifiers: short trips, as in less then 2 miles, not bunny trails but just above bunny.

I'm using the Tesla Model S battery packs, that're rated at 23 volts and 5.3kWh each (x 7) for a total of 161 volts, 37.1kWh. Tesla has larger capacity packs that can add an additional 20 miles but the cost benefit ratio is a bit pear shaped at the moment.

AND I get that you think recharging on the trail would be awful. Here's the thing, why do you think you'd be stranded with no juice in your Jeep? Didn't you plan the trip when you got into it this morning? Can't you read a SOC (State of Charge) indicator? You've done enough off roading to gauge your SOC the way you can glance at your fuel gauge and know to about 5 miles how far you have left in the tank - right?

The point I'm trying to make is, there is no magic to it, you still have to be smart about how you plan your day - it's never good to run out of gas, I assume you plan your day accordingly. That wouldn't change, would it, you'd still turn on the key, look at the SOC, then at the range estimate on the screen that showed a high miles and a low miles range, and you'd know what you can get out of a full pack.

Right?

Yes, of course I'm right. You just didn't think about it because you haven't seen one and you're making assumptions that it's like calculus to know how far these things can fly. ALL TRUE, until you get used to it, just like any other Jeep you've ever owned.

My point is, if you're out of juice on the trail, then you fucked up. Same as if you ran out of gas.

BUT, and to your very specific point, 'what if you do run out of juice on the trail?'. Yep, you'd need to charge. So, if you have a gallon of gas and a little Honda genset, you'd plug it in and open a beer and wait about 20 min to get about 5 miles back in the 'tank' then off you go. If you're farther then that from the trail head or camp, you'd obviously have to charge longer. All true.

As for the last bit of that, the 'control' part - that's the fear talking. I get that probably more then any of it. Nothing can take that away till you try it, see it in the field, know more about how it works so that when something doesn't work, you don't feel and look stupid - I GET THAT!

Okay, once again, that was a great question, my goal is to reply with respect and appreciation of your deep Jeep experience - let me know if I haven't, I'll adjust as you might suggest.

MORE questions please.

Thanks!

- Patrick
 
And yes, I'm the asshole that drives by the line of Teslas sitting on their chargers 1/2 way between Dallas and El Paso in my service truck that I just filled up in 5min shaking my head and laughing. :flipoff2:
I'm really not sure what I'm more sad about, your gloating or that you have to spend ANY time between Dallas and El Paso - god, what a shit corridor.

If it's the latter, I'm right there with ya', losers!
 
So, if you have a gallon of gas and a little Honda genset, you'd plug it in and open a beer and wait about 20 min to get about 5 miles back in the 'tank' then off you go.
Is this close to accurate? 4 minutes from a little Honda will get about a mile? Better than I thought
 
4x4 EVC

Have you ever done any wheeling ? Rock crawling, hill climbs in the South, dune running ?

You're going to need real world experience with this thing before you can sell more than a couple.
What happens when you need to do a recovery and are using your winch ? What happens when people install electric steering or electric parking brakes, ARB coolers or sound systems and on and on.


FWIW, I love seeing this kind of thing. There was a guy on the old site (I think) that built an electric sammy
 
Is this close to accurate? 4 minutes from a little Honda will get about a mile? Better than I thought
It's not 'Fast charging' like a Tesla Fast Charge station but, all EV's take the first ~80% of a charge faster then the last 20% - mostly due to battery chemistry. Also, it depends on the size of the Honda or other little genny.

In general, getting a few miles out of a charge is pretty easy. I was using the tank size of about a gallon as a reference.

The math is pretty simple: 1 gallon of gas is the equivalent of 33.7kWh of energy. My Jeeps are running around 2.4 mi/kWh so given the inefficacy of using a small generator, I rounded DOWN to about 1.5mi/kWh. Somewhere between 3 and 5 miles of charge in about 20 min.

Much like running out of gas, I'm assuming you don't return to the trail after adding gas but are heading back to camp or your trailer, same assumption here. You ran out on the way back or somesuch.

It's not like you can't see the amount of juice you're using when you're driving, it's all right there on the screen. Here's my first screen snap from last night's little drive:
1728143463042.png


I'm using the AEM CD7 (yes, very confusingly similar name to CJ7..)

The SOC I point out in the screen is the 'gas gauge' .

What I don't have on this one yet is the range calculation estimate. It's not necessary but I want to see if I can dial it in to give the driver some indication or Max / Min range distance. That's obviously made more complicated by the vehicle NOT knowing what terrain the Jeep is in or about to get into.

I'm getting into the weeds, sorry, hope I answered your question.

- Patrick
 
4x4 EVC

Have you ever done any wheeling ? Rock crawling, hill climbs in the South, dune running ?

You're going to need real world experience with this thing before you can sell more than a couple.
What happens when you need to do a recovery and are using your winch ? What happens when people install electric steering or electric parking brakes, ARB coolers or sound systems and on and on.


FWIW, I love seeing this kind of thing. There was a guy on the old site (I think) that built an electric sammy
No, personaly, I was never into the idea of crossing a field of rocks because the rocks were there, I was always the guy that wanted to go from Here to There and be damned the trail ahead of me. That kind of thing. No dunes in a Jeep, only a Dunn Buggy a thousand years ago.

I think hill climbs would be a cool way to test the Jeep but not my off roading thing either. I like the long, slow, complicated trails.

BUT, just like with all things Jeep, just because I don't enjoy those, doesn't mean others will hesisate to beat the crap out of whatever I build until it works or explodes or a little of both.

As for you accessary list, great list! Let's do it:
- Winches - they're all electric and will plug right into the 12v battery, like normal. We have had two conversations with winch manufactures, both want the exact same thing - a way to sell more winches what have smaller motors and higher voltages. They both want an exclusive for a specific 'winch plug' so that it becomes a plug in event rather then a complicated wiring event to the 12v. They both want a 48v tap. I was thinking an Anderson Connector or a beefy TE connector. We'll see. BUT, the idea of more volts to certain beloved Jeep add-ons is on the table.

- Electric Steering comes in all but the cheapest Kit - it's one of those things you can do yourself, I'm using the amazing Volvo P/S unit. It's completely self contained in one unit, looks like this:
1728144398225.png


Cost about $300 (or less). The Hi and Lo custom hoses will probably run about $180. Connects right up to the stock knuckle. Guess who makes it: Fo Mo Co...

- Electric Parking Brake (EPB) - I'll be using the Wilwood EPB kit as an option. Have you guys seen this, so simple, it looks like this:
1728144622152.png


Who doesn't love Wilwood!

- ARB Cooler - never heard of that one before, VERY neat and, pretty damn efficient - it's says it use 0.9kWh so you could keep it plugged in to the Jeep for 41 days before killing your Pack so, a weekend trip would have a negligible affect on the SOC. AND, it's already rated for 12/24 volts making it easier and faster to cool.

I just did a quick tour of all the electric coolers out there - WOW, so many! The nifty thing is, they all brag about how efficient they are which is GREAT news for and EV application.

- Sound System - same thing, almost negligible effect on the pack. Turn it up!

The thing is, electricity to electricity is mostly very effecient. It's the messy fuel / electricity to energy that takes the largest efficiency hit. Energy to work, 'work' being the output of energy like a motor to a wheel, is the most inefficient. On the Jeep for example, you can have a 98% efficient motor like the Hyper9HV but you loos about 30% in gearing.

By comparison, and ICE motor looses about 30% of it's work in heat loss, nature of the beast.

I know it seems like I'm jaded by it but, trust me, I'm as enamored by all this as much as you are - every single time I get in and drive away, I marvel at it all.

- Patrick
 
You are jaded and theres nothing wrong with that.

My questions weren't about their cost or if they would work, of course they will but, about the draw on the system and how that affects the estimated range
You're wrong about todays sound systems, they also play them the entire day. Also, don't forget lights
Theres a thread in here about using Prius calipers for parking brakes and several other good threads on using MC, electric rack and pinions etc

Point is, I think your calc's work great on the bench, in the real world I'd bet its considerably different. Until you've actually been involved in real wheeling, you can't understand or imagine what really goes on.

Not to bag on you because I'm not but your hill climb video is a great example. You thought it was quite something to do and I'm over here thinking I could do that in a honda accord.

**Anderson connectors all day long. That way a guy can hook up his trail welder easily.
 
You are jaded and theres nothing wrong with that.

My questions weren't about their cost or if they would work, of course they will but, about the draw on the system and how that affects the estimated range
You're wrong about todays sound systems, they also play them the entire day. Also, don't forget lights
Theres a thread in here about using Prius calipers for parking brakes and several other good threads on using MC, electric rack and pinions etc

Point is, I think your calc's work great on the bench, in the real world I'd bet its considerably different. Until you've actually been involved in real wheeling, you can't understand or imagine what really goes on.

Not to bag on you because I'm not but your hill climb video is a great example. You thought it was quite something to do and I'm over here thinking I could do that in a honda accord.

**Anderson connectors all day long. That way a guy can hook up his trail welder easily.
I thought I listed some of the kW draws for the cooler, but I take your point. We need a better ratting system to range. The 'one MPGe ratting fits all driving conditions' is total bs and doesn't help anyone other the the Jeep sales guys pushing the 4xe's out the door. Something to think about for another day....

As for the quick video, it was just that, a turn off in my neighborhood, that might be a total of 3 miles long in semi-private backyards. That hills was the only one out there, at the top of that hill, it's someone's backyard....

Here's an even shorter video, again, I was only interested in illustrating the torque from standing still, nothing else:


Completely agree, more off-road testing is always needed.

So, you like those Anderson connectors - they are everywhere, cool, thanks for that. The weld thing has been brought up a couple times.

- Patrick
 
Hook it to a pulling sled if you want to show us instant torque.

I bet a bunch of us here just watched that hill video and said in our heads that it would make a great jump if you hit it with some decent speed. :laughing:

If you don't rock crawl, what are you considering long technical trails? :confused:
 
Hook it to a pulling sled if you want to show us instant torque.

I bet a bunch of us here just watched that hill video and said in our heads that it would make a great jump if you hit it with some decent speed. :laughing:

If you don't rock crawl, what are you considering long technical trails? :confused:
That's interesting, hadn't thought of a sled test.

I was thinking of doing that little 'jump' also but like I said, I was only with my son at dusk, spur of the moment thing. MORE needed, much MORE needed.

Long wooded trails are my very favorite - anywhere near the Sierra Nevada's almost all of northern GA, JT to Cottonwood (and back), stuff like that.

I really want to find the time for a long Colorado trip to do some of thier renowned long trails. It's not that I don't rock crawl, it's that I don't intentionally rock crawl.

I know I've said this before but, remember, I'm not building a kit for you or someone else to replace their rig, I'm attempting to offer a repower kit that you guys can use as a platform in the coming decades to build whatever you want.

My goal is to offer the most affordable EV conversion for Jeeps with the least amount of structural changes to the vehicle.

Given the amount of crazy cash people are throwing down on restomod Broncos and Volvos and VW bugs and crap like that, I could easily offer a $75,000 - $80,000 version and do one at a time forever, being that the pool of Jeep owners is so large. BUT, I think, I think it would be wiser to offer the kits as cheap as I can and let the market expand around that rather then make it a rich man's game only.

Stuff...
 
Honestly I think you would be better off with plan B. No matter how you slice it $50k all in for a kit is a rich man's game.
 
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