Java's F450 RV

[Java230]

Not to scare you but I have given more thought about these rubber bits in years past. We have a excavator that will overheat from a missing 2"x4" strip of foam across the top of the core to hood interface.
Just anecdotal info for yah.

Yeah it's the little one right across the top. I may throw it back on, but I'm not taking that damn core support out today.

 

[Java230]

You can out build heat at idle in these.... Grrre

New meats on the front.

 

[CarterKraft]

Try some cardboard in the radiator.

 

[Java230]

Try some cardboard in the radiator.

T stats weren't even opening upper rad hose was empty

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yeah, they just don't warm up without some load, but they do warm up pretty quick.

I tend to fill the radiator/block by taking the upper hose off at the radiator, then topping up at the dgas bottle. After that I'll take her for a <5mi spin and top it up again.

 

[Java230]

Yeah, they just don't warm up without some load, but they do warm up pretty quick.

I tend to fill the radiator/block by taking the upper hose off at the radiator, then topping up at the dgas bottle. After that I'll take her for a <5mi spin and top it up again.

I think I got it all full, I picked up one of the fancy coolant funnel things. Worked well.

It did finally warm up a bit, and I took it for a spin, I have hot heat and the coolant level did not drop. I do have a couple gallons on board though!

 

[Java230]

A couple big passes down. Seems to run the same Temps as before

 

[Java230]

Little fucker wouldn't start twice now....

Batteries are pretty new (maybe 2 years old?)

I'm thinking there may be a parasitic drain? It's plugged in 24/7 at home which trickle charges the batteries.... But after 8 hrs on the ski hill it wouldn't start. Cranked ok, but voltage dropped to 8 ish which I think makes the computer not work?

But a quick jump, all it's needed is actually connecting to something more than 12v it seems, and it starts. I literally connected the cables and started it. No waiting.

Thoughts?

 

[CDA 455 II]

Java230
$10 says it's parasitic draw.

Ask me how I know.

 

[Java230]

Java230
$10 says it's parasitic draw.

Ask me how I know.

That's my thinking too..... Especially since I still have that lovely turn signal indicator that's glowing....

Edit:any advice on finding the fucker? Lol

 

[350TacoZilla]

Measuring parasitic draw - AutoEdu - procedure

Finding hidden consumers is done when there is increased consumption from the battery when the vehicle is at rest.

autoedu.info

basically ammeter and pull fuses\relays one by one while someone watches the meter. current drops suddenly you have your culprit. If that doesn't work it would have to be something hardwired which would be pretty rare but you could do things like unplug a harness one at a time.

 

[Lbhsbz]

Measuring parasitic draw - AutoEdu - procedure

Finding hidden consumers is done when there is increased consumption from the battery when the vehicle is at rest.

autoedu.info

basically ammeter and pull fuses\relays one by one while someone watches the meter. current drops suddenly you have your culprit. If that doesn't work it would have to be something hardwired which would be pretty rare but you could do things like unplug a harness one at a time.

If it's enough of a parasitic draw to suck both batteries down to the point where they're dropping below 8V cranking after 1 day...that's a big draw. Find a FLIR or SEEK thermal camera....that draw is gonna create some heat....should be real easy to find just looking for a heat signature on the camera.

 

[Java230]

If it's enough of a parasitic draw to suck both batteries down to the point where they're dropping below 8V cranking after 1 day...that's a big draw. Find a FLIR or SEEK thermal camera....that draw is gonna create some heat....should be real easy to find just looking for a heat signature on the camera.

It's cold AF too hard on batteries. It was 15 degrees. But it was only parked 6am to 3 pm.

I like the flir idea. I'm wondering if my battery combiner stuck on? Heater etc draws power, maybe the start batteries don't like any small load?

 

[PAToyota]

Also, check over your battery cables depending on age. I was having to "top off" the batteries on the K2500 every couple weeks during cold weather because starting would get sluggish - or not be able to start if I let it get low enough in cold weather. I went through and did new cables out of heavy gauge welding leads and added an onboard charger. I figured with the dual batteries, topping them off was just a necessary evil and wanted to make it easier. But with the new cables, I haven't had to use the charger once this season.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Measuring parasitic draw - AutoEdu - procedure

Finding hidden consumers is done when there is increased consumption from the battery when the vehicle is at rest.

autoedu.info

basically ammeter and pull fuses\relays one by one while someone watches the meter. current drops suddenly you have your culprit. If that doesn't work it would have to be something hardwired which would be pretty rare but you could do things like unplug a harness one at a time.

That's what was suggested by Bebop

Turns out a constantly-on (24/7) ash tray light.
Constantly charging phone/hrs at a time.
Temps down to 0*
Over a 24+ month period.

 

[aczlan]

Also, check over your battery cables depending on age. I was having to "top off" the batteries on the K2500 every couple weeks during cold weather because starting would get sluggish - or not be able to start if I let it get low enough in cold weather. I went through and did new cables out of heavy gauge welding leads and added an onboard charger. I figured with the dual batteries, topping them off was just a necessary evil and wanted to make it easier. But with the new cables, I haven't had to use the charger once this season.

Good point, long clip leads on a multimeter are good for that, measure voltage from one end to the other and see how much voltage drop you have from one end to the other.
It's not uncommon for there to be corrosion at the ends of the cable which makes for a lot of voltage loss, that wouldn't drop the battery voltage, but could drop the apparent voltage.

Aaron Z

 

[CDA 455 II]

Also, check over your battery cables depending on age. I was having to "top off" the batteries on the K2500 every couple weeks during cold weather because starting would get sluggish - or not be able to start if I let it get low enough in cold weather. I went through and did new cables out of heavy gauge welding leads and added an onboard charger. I figured with the dual batteries, topping them off was just a necessary evil and wanted to make it easier. But with the new cables, I haven't had to use the charger once this season.

As in; same gauge but just new cable?

 

[Java230]

I looked at the leads, but not closely. Tight and looked ok.

The weird thing is it instantly starts once it gets a jump. No waiting or anything.

Started it just now at lunch. Started right up. It's warmer today?

 

[DT75FLH]

I looked at the leads, but not closely. Tight and looked ok.

The weird thing is it instantly starts once it gets a jump. No waiting or anything.

Started it just now at lunch. Started right up. It's warmer today?

One of you batteries might have a bad cell...

Like showing 12v but load and it drops....a cheap battery tested from Amazon works pretty good....I had a battery show 12.4 v but only had 250cca on a 700cca battery.

 

[DT75FLH]

This one saved me on a brand new battery from sams....had to argue with the guy..but after a hour round trip to purchase it I was pissed...

I now bring it to the store when purchasing a battery...

It will test in and out of car and test charging system

 

[DT75FLH]

It will show you capacity left, and internal resistance

 

[Java230]

Ordered that tester! I will be on my porch tomorrow.

Thanks.

Bad cell kinda makes sense. That would be the easy button.

 

[DT75FLH]

My 2010 ram had the garage door opener stuck on....killed the battery and it was parked nose almost touching the wall....it was a BITCH pushing it myself back far enough to open the hood and put a charger on it.

 

[DT75FLH]

Ordered that tester! I will be on my porch tomorrow.

Thanks.

Bad cell kinda makes sense. That would be the easy button.

I end up using it a ton....on rv batteries, coach batteries. And cars....with 4 cars, 2 rvs and quads it sees a lot of use...

Also not all trickle chargers are the same...i had some battery tender 800 ma ones that would not keep up...switched to 1.5 Amp and no issues on rzr or even a car

 

[Java230]

My 2010 ram had the garage door opener stuck on....killed the battery and it was parked nose almost touching the wall....it was a BITCH pushing it myself back far enough to open the hood and put a charger on it.

I have a phone charger, that should be it for always on.

My charger is a big victron one, it's combined with the house batteries.

 

[CDA 455 II]

I looked at the leads, but not closely. Tight and looked ok.

The weird thing is it instantly starts once it gets a jump. No waiting or anything.

Started it just now at lunch. Started right up. It's warmer today?

FWIW
So far everything you've described happens to be the same as what I went through with my parasitic battery draw issue.

The 30* and colder weather hastened the problem.
There was a 3-day period with 50* temps; started up.
Temps dipped/labored attempt to start; fail.

 

[PAToyota]

As in; same gauge but just new cable?

I went with more robust cable. I had always felt the OEM stuff was undersized.

I looked at the leads, but not closely. Tight and looked ok.

At a casual glance, mine looked fine. But after replacing them, I cut one open at the end and there was corrosion an inch and a half or more back into the cable under the insulation.

 

[CDA 455 II]

At a casual glance, mine looked fine. But after replacing them, I cut one open at the end and there was corrosion an inch and a half or more back into the cable under the insulation.

Wow!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Another way to confirm a parasitic draw would be to put one of those bms style shunts between the neg terminal and the battery neg to see what standby draw is. You may have an extra from all your lithium adventures.

Once in place and draw confirmed, pull fuses till the draw goes away.

 

[87manche]

Another way to confirm a parasitic draw would be to put one of those bms style shunts between the neg terminal and the battery neg to see what standby draw is. You may have an extra from all your lithium adventures.

Once in place and draw confirmed, pull fuses till the draw goes away.

A quick and easy shunt is a $20 rc watt meter Obviously don't try to start it with it in place.

https://a.co/d/52qmbfO