CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Just use a multimeter inline for the amp measurement. You won't need anywhere near the 10 amp capacity.
FWIW
So far everything you've described happens to be the same as what I went through with my parasitic battery draw issue.
The 30* and colder weather hastened the problem.
There was a 3-day period with 50* temps; started up.
Temps dipped/labored attempt to start; fail.
I went with more robust cable. I had always felt the OEM stuff was undersized.
At a casual glance, mine looked fine. But after replacing them, I cut one open at the end and there was corrosion an inch and a half or more back into the cable under the insulation.
I will try this afternoon if its not snowing.Just use a multimeter inline for the amp measurement. You won't need anywhere near the 10 amp capacity.
You can test battery cables and charging cables by measuring resistance along the run. Don't have to disconnect them first either. Should be zero if the cable and connections are good.I will take a closer look at mine when I go poking around.
Interesting; that's how neurosurgeons test for carpal tunnel syndrome.You can test battery cables and charging cables by measuring resistance along the run. Don't have to disconnect them first either. Should be zero if the cable and connections are good.
That's not a good test of current capability though.You can test battery cables and charging cables by measuring resistance along the run. Don't have to disconnect them first either. Should be zero if the cable and connections are good.
That's not a good test of current capability though.
If a volt meter is present a resistance check is of little use. Have your wife kid crank it over while you measure voltage drop of the cables connections etc.
Be aware of capacitor charging though. I usually jumper the battery cable to the post then connect my meter in series, then disconnect the jumper from post to cable. That prevents you from charging caps through your meter fuse.I will try this afternoon if its not snowing.
I left it unplugged last night also, its ~35 out today. We will see if it wants to start. Its kind of seeming intermittent Battery tester arrived as well.
So batteries are completely dead 0%No start this afternoon.
After cranking Connected together and in truck this was the reading both sides. (one was 132 one was 133)
Separated, not connected to anything this was the result.
It's been sitting all night and I tried to crank before testing. But yes.So batteries are completely dead 0%
Did you check both seperately?It's been sitting all night and I tried to crank before testing. But yes.
Batteries are dated 3/21
Yes same/extremely similar resultsDid you check both seperately?
New it is!Yes same/extremely similar results
That is the weird part, it's plugged in 99% of the time on a trickle chargerNew it is!
Did they ever get deeply discharged or otherwise abused?
I don't think that's right.And my meter must be out of batteries.... It's says 17.xx volts on the batteries?
What size or model trickle chargerThat is the weird part, it's plugged in 99% of the time on a trickle charger
I don't think that's right.
It charges off the main Victron (Multilplus 3kw, it is set for AGM though) house battery charger. Once voltage is more than 13 on the house bank the solenoid triggers and connects the house and start batteries.What size or model trickle charger
What ever you are doing is not working out too great unless artic temps are super problematic.Yeah... and its a 9v battery. Didn't have one and decided beer was good last night.
It charges off the main Victron (Multilplus 3kw, it is set for AGM though) house battery charger. Once voltage is more than 13 on the house bank the solenoid triggers and connects the house and start batteries.
But I think my house batteries are pissy too. Down to 11V this am. Been unplugged since Sunday PM.....
So you are trickle charging the cranking batteries by connecting to the house with a AGM charge profile?Yeah... and its a 9v battery. Didn't have one and decided beer was good last night.
It charges off the main Victron (Multilplus 3kw, it is set for AGM though) house battery charger. Once voltage is more than 13 on the house bank the solenoid triggers and connects the house and start batteries.
But I think my house batteries are pissy too. Down to 11V this am. Been unplugged since Sunday PM.....
Heater and fridge were running.... Heat mat does work on the batteries. Comes on ~35What ever you are doing is not working out too great unless artic temps are super problematic.
Did you ever get the heating working for the house batts?
Maybe not? But the AGM and flooded profiles are not that far off. Just a higher peak voltage when bulk charging.So you are trickle charging the cranking batteries by connecting to the house with a AGM charge profile?
Is that smart?
But how does it direct the charge to the house or start batteries when paralleled? Path of least resistance?Maybe not? But the AGM and flooded profiles are not that far off. Just a higher peak voltage when bulk charging.
The charger is at the house battery bank. Could be? I am not sure to be honest.But how does it direct the charge to the house or start batteries when paralleled? Path of least resistance?
The AGM's have a much lower resistance than flooded lead acid, so it might just overcharge the house batteries?
🤦♂️The charger is at the house battery bank. Could be? I am not sure to be honest.
IIRC there is a starting battery output on the charger, I just didnt want to run another wire
The charger is at the house battery bank. Could be? I am not sure to be honest.
IIRC there is a starting battery output on the charger, I just didnt want to run another wire
For us electrical nOOBs;🤦♂️
I should have run the extra wireFor us electrical nOOBs;
What does the facepalm mean?🤔🤓
Singular wire?I should have run the extra wire