Hydes budget one ton Ranger

[Hyde]

Added a bit to the bumper so looks like it's staying. Trying to decide if I should add some weld on D rings before I paint it.

Mocked it up with the winch then decided I should add some light tabs

 

[Hyde]

Little projects before the first big trip, finished up the bumper/winch
Rock lights, wish they were more of a bright white but they were free, and have annoying rave modes/tons of colors
Rigid interior lights that are probably way too bright so they're on a switch, also power points and Streamlight charger mounted

 

[Hyde]

Last but not least, the highest priority project of the weekend, mounted the wannabe yeti

 

[Hyde]

Little Ranger did pretty well at Naches, traction is super high there but still pulled some lines that surprised me.

Only carnage was my 1330 double cardan exploding on Saturday night, lots of full throttle front dig probably didn't help. I'm going to swap a yoke and try a single joint shaft next.

The homemade steel "fuel cell" that came on the truck kept plugging filters and the tank outlet with rust so I'll be ordering a plastic cell.

Finding a 1356 to build my doubler moved way up my priority list after playing on some proper rocks.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Only carnage was my 1330 double cardan exploding on Saturday night, lots of full throttle front dig probably didn't help. I'm going to swap a yoke and try a single joint shaft next.

A single joint driveshaft won't fix your issue. 1330 joints are too small for doing "full throttle" front digs on 38" tires with 4.10 gears. Using deeper axle gears will help your driveshafts out a lot, or upgrade to 1350 or 1410 driveshaft joints. Single or double cardan shouldn't matter strength wise, but should be used to match your driveline angles.

 

[Hyde]

A single joint driveshaft won't fix your issue. 1330 joints are too small for doing "full throttle" front digs on 38" tires with 4.10 gears. Using deeper axle gears will help your driveshafts out a lot, or upgrade to 1350 or 1410 driveshaft joints. Single or double cardan shouldn't matter strength wise, but should be used to match your driveline angles.

I believe the double cardan was binding, I don't think it was a pure strength issue. I cleaned up the casting marks and clearanced the yokes when I rebuilt the double cardan but the angle of those are pitiful. My low pinion axle is only making matters worse. I did point the pinion up as much as I could without ruining the angles of everything else but I don't think it was enough to keep the double cardan happy.

1350 has the same operating angle as 1330 from what I've found. Single joint shafts are everywhere so I'm going to pick one up at the pick and pull and see how it works with my setup, if nothing else the standard shaft will be way cheaper to fix/rebuild if necessary until I upgrade.

I'm going to have to run a carrier bearing front shaft when I do the doubler, eventually I will go to either Toy or 1410 joints. Just trying to get it back on the trail for the moment, I might have to ease up on the front digs

 

['84 Bronco II]

I believe the double cardan was binding, I don't think it was a pure strength issue. I cleaned up the casting marks and clearanced the yokes when I rebuilt the double cardan but the angle of those are pitiful. My low pinion axle is only making matters worse. I did point the pinion up as much as I could without ruining the angles of everything else but I don't think it was enough to keep the double cardan happy.

1350 has the same operating angle as 1330 from what I've found. Single joint shafts are everywhere so I'm going to pick one up at the pick and pull and see how it works with my setup, if nothing else the standard shaft will be way cheaper to fix/rebuild if necessary until I upgrade.

I'm going to have to run a carrier bearing front shaft when I do the doubler, eventually I will go to either Toy or 1410 joints. Just trying to get it back on the trail for the moment, I might have to ease up on the front digs

The binding may have been a big contributor to your failure, but I am telling you from first hand experience, my cousin broke several 1330 front drive shaft U-joints running 38.5" tires with 4.10 axle gears. If you take it easy they can live, but if you want to do "full throttle" front digs and similar abuse, a 1330 is not up to the task with 38s and 4.10 gears.

 

[Hyde]

The binding may have been a big contributor to your failure, but I am telling you from first hand experience, my cousin broke several 1330 front drive shaft U-joints running 38.5" tires with 4.10 axle gears. If you take it easy they can live, but if you want to do "full throttle" front digs and similar abuse, a 1330 is not up to the task with 38s and 4.10 gears.

Good to know, when I twin sticked the 205 I never planned on it but man is it handy, and a real crowd pleaser. For my pretty extreme driveshaft angle and driving habits I'll probably be looking at 1410 parts next.

 

[Hyde]

Went to the junkyard and grabbed a 1330 donor shaft to get me on the trail, just need to cut it down and throw new joints in

While I was there I grabbed a 1356 to start building my poor man with a long wheelbase doubler

Also committed to 1410s when I do the doubler, found a guy on Craigslist with a 1410 front carrier bearing setup. Dug around in the shed and found enough 1410 slip parts and weld yokes to build at least the front shaft

 

[Hyde]

Got the "new" driveshaft shortened and installed. I'll never use a non-high pinion axle on a build again, the driveshaft angle on this thing is horrendous

​​​​​

​​​​​​Also started tearing down the 1356 for the doubler

 

[bobbywalter]

I have had better luck with 1310 over 30.


But 1410 is a better deal for a doubler.

 

[Proeliator]

Yea, sucks working with the non high pinions. Its all about having the angles at either end equal and opposite so they are in phase, or one end at zero and the other within its working range. Usually that means rotating the perches/buckets. Either way, glad you are steeping up to 1410s. Everything on mine has been 1410s, even the intermediate shaft. Well, not the rear. I nuked my 1410 rear HAD driveline as soon as I put in the new engine went to Jesse's 2.5 ton trick dl. Haven't had any issues since. Front is still just 1410 though, and has lived fine despite doing some ridiculous shit to it. Good to see her out and about!

 

[Hyde]

1410/1330 comparison just because

I think the 1410 setup should stay together once I get the doubler done. I'll keep flogging it as is, but I'll still be keeping an eye open for a deal on a Superduty 60, you couldn't pick them up for $600 when I started this project

 

[bobbywalter]

The low pinion 44 in the bronco II sux. But the stock style 1350 case angles down a bit and helps. Run 33 to 38 tires ok with the 1310 shafts.


4.0 with m5od does pretty good.

My ranger has a kp 60 and angles are ideal. But 1330 shit all around. Back with the sbf...1410 rear 1310 front....no cardan joints....all singles. I like singles better.....hard to do on a bronco though. Easy on our long ass ext cabs.

 

[Gravy]

I could be wrong, but a 1330 and a 1350 use the same cross just different caps on the ujoint. I needed a 1330/1350 conversion joint and I think the shop used 1310 caps on a 1350 joint to achieve this.

 

[bobbywalter]

I could be wrong, but a 1330 and a 1350 use the same cross just different caps on the ujoint. I needed a 1330/1350 conversion joint and I think the shop used 1310 caps on a 1350 joint to achieve this.

That is for a 1310. 1350 is heavy trunion.


All have multiple cap of though and inner outer snaps

 

[Hyde]

Fuel cell showed up today, need to try and get it mounted and plumbed by Saturday night but it's 100 degrees right now​​​​​ ​​​

 

[Hyde]

Not much has changed lately, I'm a lazy fuck and still haven't mounted my cell, still went wheeling though. New front shaft held up

Still tinkering with the doubler, cut the case, working on the sealing plate

 

['84 Bronco II]

How long is your rear driveshaft going to end up being with the doubler and divorced transfer case setup?

 

[Hyde]

How long is your rear driveshaft going to end up being with the doubler and divorced transfer case setup?

Rough calculations about 42"

It's pretty close to 5 feet long currently, doubler will add 18" to drivetrain length

 

['84 Bronco II]

Rough calculations about 42"

It's pretty close to 5 feet long currently, doubler will add 18" to drivetrain length

That should work out pretty well then. My doubler only added 7", and I am down to a 25" rear driveshaft now. The curse of a short wheelbase I suppose

 

[Hyde]

I don't think I ever went into detail about the doubler setup, I'm just taking ideas I've seen elsewhere, the important bit is that the slip yoke Borg Warner 1356 has a 31 spline output that matches a Ford 205 input.

Im cutting 1.25" of splines off the output, that will give me full spline engagement with the 205 while shortening the whole thing up a little bit.

I cut the case right along the reinforcement ribs, that gives you just enough meat to tap for 10-32 screws where the ribs intersect.

Cleaned everything up today and the range box is ready for final assembly. Im using 75-140 synthetic gear oil since I deleted the oil pump and it will be splash lubed now.

Since im not using the front output I had two "high range" spots for the shifter. Not my best work but just welded up the shift gate so I have high/neutral/low

Next project will be the adapter, planning on 3/8 plate and heavy wall 5" tubing for that

 

[arse_sidewards]

Deleting the oil pump doesn't necessarily seem smart since the whole point of it is to lube the front half of the case which is the half you're keeping especially since you're going to be using a thicker oil that is going to have a harder time getting in and around everything there.

That said, with the kind of mileage people put on rigs that are hardcore enough to have a doubler it probably won't be an issue for at least a couple years.

 

[Hyde]

Deleting the oil pump doesn't necessarily seem smart since the whole point of it is to lube the front half of the case which is the half you're keeping especially since you're going to be using a thicker oil that is going to have a harder time getting in and around everything there.

That said, with the kind of mileage people put on rigs that are hardcore enough to have a doubler it probably won't be an issue for at least a couple years.

I got rid of the lower half of the case where the oil pump pickup lives. The original fill plug is now almost the low point of the case. With a couple quarts in it the planetary will be partially submerged. The only thing I'm worried about is the needle bearing inside the planetary, I may run into issues there eventually without the pump

 

[Hyde]

Finally sourced a chunk of 5" pipe so I can move forward with the doubler


Also grabbed some scion seats from the junkyard, would not recommend. Not the easiest to work with but getting those mounted

Other than that just flogging it

 

[Hyde]

I was getting pretty shop lazy for a while there. Finally finished up the seats and got my fell cell mount mostly built. Just have to finish up the straps

 

[Hyde]

Fuel cell is finally in! Hose and

rest of the plumbing should be here this week so I can make a run this weekend. Back to working on the doubler now

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

What RCI fuel cell is that? Did they finally make a plastic one in the size everyone uses or is that an aluminum cell inside the can?

 

[Hyde]

What RCI fuel cell is that? Did they finally make a plastic one in the size everyone uses or is that an aluminum cell inside the can?

It's the Rockcrawler, 15 gallon plastic bladder in a steel shell. It wasn't the easiest to figure out a mount since the shell is so thin I wouldn't recommend mounting off of it. Also had to disassemble it to get the water out of the shell and clean the plastic shavings out, then paint the inside where it isn't powdercoated.

I went with it because a bunch of guys I know have cracked aluminum cells but I kind of expected better for $300

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I wish they would have made that plastic cell when I built my old TJ. Back then they were hinting about making it but I got sick of waiting and used the aluminum cell all the other Jeep guys were putting in the back of their Jeeps. I regretted every second of it. Even though it was in an Artec mount, I was always afraid it was going to crack and leak at the worst possible time.

I'm glad RCI listened to their customers and made it.