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Hydes budget one ton Ranger

Took her out Sunday, nothing noteworthy but it runs 100x better with a real fuel system.

Making some progress on the Po boy doubler

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Shortened the main shaft 1.25"
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Only issue so far is the 205 shifters will be a real fucker, front output is close-ish to the front case but I'll be running a pillow block setup so shouldn't be an issue.
 
Surprise! Not dead, just lazy.

Found an skf seal that will fit the pocket of the 1356 case
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And realized I need to hack up a lot more floor than I planned. Once I get the 205 in behind this I can measure for cables and order JB shifters
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ya that is a bit of a hole you made in the floor there.... A big removable cover has upsides for access, especially if the shifters are a PITA.
 
rattle_snake said:
ya that is a bit of a hole you made in the floor there.... A big removable cover has upsides for access, especially if the shifters are a PITA.
Click to expand...

Removable might not be the worst idea, would make pulling the cases way easier in the future. As far as shifters my only option really is to go cable from the back on the 205, front case will be standard linkage
 
Got both cases in and mocked up, need to go get material for rebuilding the floor. I think I will try to make at least the center section removable to make servicing the cases easier later.

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The 205 hangs below the frame a couple inches on the front output side, thinking I will make a combo skid/crossmember out of some 1/4" plate for the 205, then run another skid from that to the trans crossmember for the front case

Also got my 1410 yokes for the 60 and 205

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Working on drivetrain height then ready to start rebuilding. I really wanted to try and do a flat belly but just don't think it's going to happen. Picture with the yoke through the floor the 205 is still below frame level and the shift tower is almost into the dash and running into trans clearance issues. Will probably drop it down about an inch to give everything room to move then build a skid for it.

Going to do a flat tunnel all the way across to make mounting shifters and handbrake nice, then weld sheet metal in the sides and make the top sections removable for service.

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Stuffed. I would have to stare at that for a few beers in an attempt to make a plan. If you can, use some shims to allow TC mount height to be adjustable.
 
Finished the tcase mount and crossmember, ended up a little lower overall than I wanted but could be worse. Same mount as the transmission and inline with it so hopefully there will be no binding
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Made some progress lately, I suck at welding sheet metal but it's coming along
PRP lead time is farther out than I wanted to wait so got a set of cheap Mastercrafts for now

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Then started building and mounting all the levers and tunnel covers. Decided to ditch the factory shifter that was in the way of everything and build my own "Trail Banger" style
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Passenger side about wrapped up, working on the driver side tomorrow
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Driver side all tacked in, got too burnt out to finish it today.
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Also mocked up the first half of my pillow block front shaft. I picked it up used but the 1410 yokes are splined 1.5"-16 which happens to be the same as older Fords, cut apart a couple stock ranger shafts and used some 2" sch40 to build a double spline front shaft. Drilled and tapped the pillow block end to bolt the yoke on.
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Think I'm also going to find a way to build a skid between the trans and tcase crossmembers
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Nice tcase crossmember, shouldn't break the tailshaft housing unless your motor mounts are extra mushy and it can twist enough to bottom out the 205's front output region against the plate underneath

Also dig the shifter
Really sucks on these how you gotta bend the shifter and the already clunky shifting gets a thousand times worse, as when you're trying to go side to side it just wants to rotate against the cross pins instead of rocking the ball
 
[486] said:
Nice tcase crossmember, shouldn't break the tailshaft housing unless your motor mounts are extra mushy and it can twist enough to bottom out the 205's front output region against the plate underneath

Also dig the shifter
Really sucks on these how you gotta bend the shifter and the already clunky shifting gets a thousand times worse, as when you're trying to go side to side it just wants to rotate against the cross pins instead of rocking the ball
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The only time the tcase might hit the crossmember is in reverse but time will tell there.

I had a t18 in an explorer a few years ago that I had bent nice and worked pretty well. The np435 in this is about the only part I hadn't changed since picking it up and whoever bent that sucker shouldn't be allowed to own a torch
 
Hyde said:
I had a t18 in an explorer a few years ago that I had bent nice and worked pretty well. The np435 in this is about the only part I hadn't changed since picking it up and whoever bent that sucker shouldn't be allowed to own a torch
Click to expand...
hah mine on a 435 probably looked worse
it was so bindy that I just flat out gave up on it before it even moved. Went out and found a ZF, still had to bend that shifter a lot but it would at least go side to side in the cross-gate direction
 
What is the planned use for the "drift" brake? Ive thought about using one for a holding brake on my build as I'm running a manual as well.
 
Toreadorranger said:
What is the planned use for the "drift" brake? Ive thought about using one for a holding brake on my build as I'm running a manual as well.
Click to expand...
I'm running it to the rear brakes for when I dig, took too many feet and too much throttle running all the pedals and powering through the front brakes
 
I was pretty tired of working on the interior so I knocked out the driveshafts today. All schedule 40, 1410 front. Rear is 1330 at the case 1350 at the axle
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It works! Just did a little test crawl to make sure my front driveshaft wasn't going to bind and test everything. I've never had "low" gearing in any of my previous rigs so this is awesome! No throttle required for the log pile

The cable shifters will take some getting used to, it was hard enough to kick the rear out with a solid linkage, now the bind is exaggerated but it works.

Time to pull it back in for cage work, and picking my new tires up in the morning :smokin:

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Started on the cage, it's a Jegs kit I've had sitting around for a while, eventually I'm going update the bed to tube with a stout headache rack and tie it in to that. Also ordered a quick disconnect steering wheel setup because I'm a fat fuck and the new seats actually have bolster
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Got it ready for the shakedown run this weekend, still have to wire my switch panel and get new rock lights and junk but it's wheelable. I don't know why I thought 42s were a good idea but the price was right :laughing:

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The 42" SX2s are looking good :smokin: You need some less mall-crawlin wheels though :flipoff2:
 
Three trips on it so far, first run out the clutch hose melted on the manifold since that's one of the things I didn't touch over the winter. Converted it to AN and it's been great, I couldn't be happier with the setup
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Still have some wiring to do but mostly done wrenching for the season until I break. Now it's time to start prepping the new engine to swap it this winter, and get parts together for my next front axle
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regarding the 302 with a turbo, been there done that
during and afterwords I was kicking myself for not just going with a gen3/4 GM motor
even if you're paying someone else to tune it, it'll just be easier to get a good result
 
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