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Hydes budget one ton Ranger


May 26, 2020
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North Idaho
A few years ago I bought a 92 ranger as a quick way to get back into wheeling. Shortly after that I realized I'm an idiot and should really look at things closer before I buy them. Booty fab crossmembers with no trans mount, Toyota SAS brackets cut in half and scabbed to the frame, all 4 springs bent and to top it off mismatched gears in the 5 lug 44/8 lug 60 combo.

So it sat like this for a few years minus the boggers
Fast forward to February of this year, finally get it in the shop and start cutting out the cancer

​​Decided to ditch the 44/60 completely and picked up some "one tons." ​I know the downfalls of the CAD 60, the budget portion of the title is the reason I'm using it. 01 Ram 32 spline 60 and 14 bolt rear will do for now
So started getting the axle under, new trans crossmember built, this time complete with a mount.

Crossmember is 2x4 .250 wall with 3/8" caps and 1/4" plates, links are 2" .250 wall dom with 1.25 heims

Next I had to figure out how to mount my coil buckets, I stretched the front a few inches and the ranger frame has a large bump around the steering box. I ended up spacing the frame out with 4x4 1/4" angle iron capped with 1/4" plate.
Then I welded my Wildhorses buckets to the spacers. This got me over the steering box hump and also matched up with the axle pads. Coils are 5.5" Wildhorses, axle side pads are stock Ford with retainers
Ruffstuff panhard kit, I've seen success stories of welding to the CAD housing so hopefully I don't regret it but there's a good chance I might

Steering is a takeoff Synergy set for a Ram, the tie rod is 3/16 wall chromoly, drag link is 1.5" solid cold rolled.

Not shown in these pics but I drilled the knuckles and used taper inserts to flip the steering over the knuckle. That let me go to a stock Ranger pitman arm to get rid of that mega drop monstrosity in the earlier pics, along with the obvious clearance benefits.
First time on its own weight with the new front axle.
After this I swapped in the 14 bolt, turns out I took no pictures of it but with new Ubolts it bolted right in. I did give it the orb of traction treatment though :grinpimp:

Made new rear packs at the same time, stock F150 leafs with one leaf swapped in from the Ranger 6" lift pack. Didn't have to change any brackets for the F150 swap.
I had a dry spell for taking pictures while I welded the front diff, drilled and tapped the factory Ranger steering box for Hydro assist, and threw some tractor paint on everything. So skip ahead to hydro ram mounting. I know most of your think it will leak, and it might but mounting options were limited without mounting the ram in harm's way.

The ram mounts are 3/4" plate triple passed. The whole setup has just over $100 into it, remember the budget in the title?
I knew the factory Ford pump wasn't up to the hydro task so I started looking at options. The 70s Ford Saginaw pumps that will easily bolt on to a 4.0 are obsolete and impossible to find so I started looking at the Saginaw TC pumps. A buddy had a Trail Gear pump sitting on the shelf so I took a spare power steering bracket and started cutting.

And came up with this
Tapped the suction port to 1/2npt and put a 5/8 nipple in. The reservoir is for an Excursion and almost looks like it belongs. Re-routed the factory pressure line and it fits the GM style pump with no modification. The pulley is off a Trailblazer? But has too much offset, I need to find a pulley that is more centered but currently it turns the 38s easily.
There are a ton of 205 twin stick write ups out there so I won't bore you with the details but here are a couple of pics just because
Built a schedule 40 rear shaft like all the "cool" Toyota guys, front shaft is Ford 1330 double cardan I clearanced, rebuilt and shortened.
The not even close to finished product! I need to have front brake lines made at the local shop, the braided ones that were on it are leaking. Once that's done it will be wheelable. Stay tuned for Armor, upgrades and breakage!
Id like some more info on the driveshaft. I have to build a set for my budget build and would love a bit more info.
Id like some more info on the driveshaft. I have to build a set for my budget build and would love a bit more info.

I used 2.5" steel schedule 40, I think 17 feet was $50. I dug through the driveshaft pile to find the correct yokes and cut them off, just cut around the weld with a wheel. The shafts I took the yokes from happened to be a nice interference for into the schedule 40.

Put the pipe in a vice, tapped the yokes in, phased them with a level (you want the yokes inline) then tacked it together in a few spots and bolted into the rig. Had my buddy spin the shaft while I watched and tapped the high spots until it spun straight (now's the time for a dial indicator if you have one) once it was straight I burned it in. A little ghetto but this thing will never see the highway so hopefully it doesn't shake too bad with the eyeball alignment
Info on the adapter iv never heard of one. I was wanting to adapt a zf5 speed

I believe a guy with the forum handle Rulebreaker used to sell them on Therangerstation, no idea if he's still around unfortunately
Little progress this weekend, had new front brake lines made and built a real upper for my radius arm to replace the mock-up link
Seems like every project takes forever during the week, just about finished up with the anti wrap bar
Picked up a Badlands 12k since they were on sale which got me started thinking about a bumper. Have this chunk of 3x6 .250 I'm considering using unless everyone tells me it will be an anchor. I'll angle cut the ends and plate them in and mount the winch in the grille
3x6 .25 is probably a little bit much for the front end, that stuff is about 14lbs per ft, so theres about 70lbs alone just right there. 2x6 or 2x4 3/16 might be a better choice, the 2x4 would be half the weight. But you have that stuff already so if your ok with the weight, its really only your time your out If you end up not liking it.
That will be an anchor, unless you keep it super short. I would go with 2x4 in between the frame rails, and tapering 2x4 outside the rails.
First run is this weekend so it's crunch time, made some slider progress today. 2x2 3/16 wall with 1/4" frame plates
Little progress, finished sliders, installed the anti wrap bar. Some odds and ends like adjusted toe and tied my brake lines down
Starting on the front bumper now, like Toreador ranger said, I'm only out my time if I don't like it. I think I can make this look decent though
Well shit, looking good my friend! :smokin:

Thanks buddy, glad to see you made it over!

I'm not sure if I'm in love with the bumper but it didn't turn out too bad, I'll run it for the weekend and decide on its future later
Yea, I totally see why everybody was bitching about pirate. Fuuuuuuuuck that place now. Anyways, I dig the bumper. Run it until you fuck it up. Which you will :)
Virgin run went really well minus a failing fuel pump. Still completed the trail and made it back on the trailer though so that's a win.

Bumper is growing on me and it held up great.

Also, I'm definitely doubler shopping now :lmao:

Wouldn't let me upload any other pictures but here's a few
Started my wiring nightmare, rock lights, Rigid pods, Rigid interior lights, Ram center console with power points. Going to mount my streamlight charger to the center console so I always have a flashlight.

Also looking at picking up a Chinese dual band radio to talk to my buddies on the trail
Bumper is great. Simple.

I have not seen or spoke with Chad (rulebreaker) in a few years. Grem made 4.0 plates too. I was hoping to make it out there before the 4th so maybe this is an omen. I don't even know if they still live out at the farm.

Truck is a beast. Love it:smokin:
Not much has happened, camping last weekend and work means little progress.

Started on the winch though, need to have that and the lights wrapped up by the end of my weekend Tuesday. I'm dragging it to Naches for the 4th weekend so I better get my shit together

Cut the valance just enough and I'll trim the grill once it's burned in. Going to fully weld the plate and gusset, I can still easily unbolt the winch once the plate is welded on
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