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H1 portal kit beside JHF

Weasel said:
Could be, at the time it was just dismissed as "they don't work".
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Thats all I remember also. They looked small in comparison to the MOG boxes, so I think people thought they were weak.

Someone posted a broken 404 box, only reason I mentioned them.
 
What did Craig Thompson run in the rear of his old pro-mod / comp buggy? I recall seeing a rear portal box broken after a cartwheel maneuver that took a big hit to the rear end.
 
Opiebennett said:
What did Craig Thompson run in the rear of his old pro-mod / comp buggy? I recall seeing a rear portal box broken after a cartwheel maneuver that took a big hit to the rear end.
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Iirc, it was a regular 404 axle, maybe narrowed? Front was a 9" with 404 outters, I think to clear the oil pan or something.
 
You have to wonder if 74Weld is reading this. Timely post today, teasing 99-04 super duty portals by the end of the year, and 05+ after that.
 

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Too bad they aren’t geared lower. Most super duty axles have 3.73 gears so a 1.22 portal only gets you to 4.55.

1.6 in the portal would be ideal.
 
benw said:
Too bad they aren’t geared lower. Most super duty axles have 3.73 gears so a 1.22 portal only gets you to 4.55.

1.6 in the portal would be ideal.
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I agree, ~1.2 doesn't seem like enough. 1.5 seems like a good middle ground. Gets you about 5.00-8.00:1 with 3.31-5.38s. But more importantly, less stress off shafts and gears. I can't imagine anyone needing taller than ~5:1 whos also wanting portals.
 
Doesn't he(74weld) make two gear and four gear boxes? All his pics recently and in this thread seem to be the 4 gear box. I wonder if the 2 gear stuff is lower geared? It seems like he is trying to market the two gear stuff toward crawlers.
 
If it were me, I wouldn't choose a gear ratio based on available junkyard gear ratios. I'd want the portals to be as strong as reasonably possible. To make a portal car work well, you're probably designing a chassis around portal axles, or at least re-doing a significant portion of the chassis. You're also dropping $10k+ on portal boxes, and have to re-set the R&P backlash when you install the lockers, so I doubt the added cost of a R&P is a deal breaker.
 
I wager 74weld did the R+D to make the 4 gear portal part a universal piece, then custom uprights that hold the portal for the current bronco, for the jeep JL, for the 99-04, and the 05+ axles.
 
2big bronco said:
I agree. Especially considering how garbage thin the stock knuckle is.
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Are the stock knuckles cast aluminum or Iron?

Do you think the rear axle tubes are strong enough to deal with the leverage of portals or would it have to be trussed to survive? I haven't had a chance to look at one up close yet...
 
On the Bronco, the knuckles are aluminum.

On the JL/JTs, the knuckles on the Mojave are steel all other models get aluminum. And the aluminum ones flex when you start putting bigger tires on. It's not all that noticeable until you throw a set of Reid knuckles on and then take the same Jeep on 37s out for a drive, then you can feel how much tighter it is.

Same for the aluminum vs steel steering boxes on the newer Jeeps. Measured at the nose, the aluminum ones flex .050" just wiggling the steering wheel back and forth.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Are the stock knuckles cast aluminum or Iron?

Do you think the rear axle tubes are strong enough to deal with the leverage of portals or would it have to be trussed to survive? I haven't had a chance to look at one up close yet...
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The newer Advantek Dana 44s in both the Jeep and the Bronco have bigger axle tubes and are stronger than those in the JK. With a JK, a set of 37s and hard wheeling would bend both tubes and brackets. There are people thumping the newer JLs/JTs pretty good and the rear axles seem to be holding up pretty good. The weak point in the front axle is the FAD (front axle disconnect) housing, there are a number of front housings that have split right there.
 
Tech Tim said:
The newer Advantek Dana 44s in both the Jeep and the Bronco have bigger axle tubes and are stronger than those in the JK. With a JK, a set of 37s and hard wheeling would bend both tubes and brackets. There are people thumping the newer JLs/JTs pretty good and the rear axles seem to be holding up pretty good. The weak point in the front axle is the FAD (front axle disconnect) housing, there are a number of front housings that have split right there.
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I've seen a bunch of JL front axle failures at the FAD. That was a dumb idea on Jeeps part but I understand they had to do it for MPG and EPA reasons.

I've wheeled the hell out of my wifes JKUR on 37s and 40s with stock(ish) axles and haven't had an issue. The front had the full Artec package thrown at it along with sleeved tubes and cromo shafts but the rear is still stock except for an ARB diff cover and a pair of Carbon brand shafts, and its still straight. Maybe I'm just lucky.....
 
Tech Tim said:
On the Bronco, the knuckles are aluminum.

On the JL/JTs, the knuckles on the Mojave are steel all other models get aluminum. And the aluminum ones flex when you start putting bigger tires on. It's not all that noticeable until you throw a set of Reid knuckles on and then take the same Jeep on 37s out for a drive, then you can feel how much tighter it is.

Same for the aluminum vs steel steering boxes on the newer Jeeps. Measured at the nose, the aluminum ones flex .050" just wiggling the steering wheel back and forth.
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Knuckes are cast steel on mine... or are you saying the weld 74 are alluminum?
 
Tech Tim said:
On the Bronco, the knuckles are aluminum.

On the JL/JTs, the knuckles on the Mojave are steel all other models get aluminum. And the aluminum ones flex when you start putting bigger tires on. It's not all that noticeable until you throw a set of Reid knuckles on and then take the same Jeep on 37s out for a drive, then you can feel how much tighter it is.

Same for the aluminum vs steel steering boxes on the newer Jeeps. Measured at the nose, the aluminum ones flex .050" just wiggling the steering wheel back and forth.
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Alright dumb question of the day haha. I've been seeing all of these aluminum highly stressed drivetrain components coming about, how is cycle fatigue not a noteworthy issue with how many cycles they see per drive, every day, for years?
 
AgitatedPancake said:
Alright dumb question of the day haha. I've been seeing all of these aluminum highly stressed drivetrain components coming about, how is cycle fatigue not a noteworthy issue with how many cycles they see per drive, every day, for years?
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Almost every European and a lot of American cars/pickups and SUV's sold in the US for at least the last 15yrs have parts of, if not all of the suspension components made out of cast aluminum. How many of these cars have you seen on the side of the road with broken suspension components due to life cycle fatigue failures?
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Almost every European and a lot of American cars/pickups and SUV's sold in the US for at least the last 15yrs have parts of, if not all of the suspension components made out of cast aluminum. How many of these cars have you seen on the side of the road with broken suspension components due to life cycle fatigue failures?
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I do agree there are plenty of OEM aluminum components out there that survive just fine, but it seems pretty new that we're seeing them in heavier duty applications intended for abuse. Tim's example of a steering box flexing .050" just wiggling the steering wheel back and forth surprises me quite a bit. It's got to see that much motion hundreds of times per drive.

I'll clarify that I don't have the knowledge to know when cycle fatigue becomes an issue, just know that it is a failure condition of aluminum that doesn't exist for iron/steel. Maybe it's a non issue, but that's why it's a dumb question hah :laughing:
 
Aluminum has a finite life. Each stress cycle builds and counts towards that life. Steel doesn't have this same type of behavior. If you stay under a designed stress limit the life is infinite and the cycles do not add nor stack. Simply put.

I do not see aluminum parts on Jeeps or Bronco as a good design idea or choice. And cast? :barf: making a poor idea and making it worse.

The portal kit costs has been out for awhile and they all are in that 24k range. Not quite sure it pencils out quite yet as a cheaper option.
 
Weasel said:
Aluminum has a finite life. Each stress cycle builds and counts towards that life. Steel doesn't have this same type of behavior. If you stay under a designed stress limit the life is infinite and the cycles do not add nor stack. Simply put.

I do not see aluminum parts on Jeeps or Bronco as a good design idea or choice. And cast? :barf: making a poor idea and making it worse.

The portal kit costs has been out for awhile and they all are in that 24k range. Not quite sure it pencils out quite yet as a cheaper option.
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Cheaper than what?

4" lift, much stronger axles and regear could easily ad up to $24k on one of these rigs if you are looking for bolt on stuff.

I'd love to see a YouTube guy slap this kit on a cheap JK with no other mods just to see what breaks first.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Cheaper than what?

4" lift, much stronger axles and regear could easily ad up to $24k on one of these rigs if you are looking for bolt on stuff.

I'd love to see a YouTube guy slap this kit on a cheap JK with no other mods just to see what breaks first.
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I'm sure if whistlin diesel was nudged he may give it a go, you know, for the haters:flipoff2:
But in all seriousness, he might be the best testing source... gotta blow up his insta i think.
 
Sterlingfire said:
I'm sure if whistlin diesel was nudged he may give it a go, you know, for the haters:flipoff2:
But in all seriousness, he might be the best testing source... gotta blow up his insta i think.
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I'm not talking just pure destruction :laughing:

I mean like real world use, not just flat out trying to break it.
 
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