What's new

Go fast 3 Link Tacoma sas

Steering arms. The factory hole is at angle so I’ll grind the misalignments to Match the angle and sit flat

CE190A9E-AA46-446E-A97C-093711294D59.jpeg


812EEAE7-AF67-41AE-8C05-D75D7A1037D5.jpeg
 
Steering arms. The factory hole is at angle so I’ll grind the misalignments to Match the angle and sit flat

That'll work, I always try to stick to the plan of "modify the cheap part to fit the expensive part". You might also be able to find an off-the-shelf angled washer to take up the gap, or easily machine one from a thick washer.
 
That'll work, I always try to stick to the plan of "modify the cheap part to fit the expensive part". You might also be able to find an off-the-shelf angled washer to take up the gap, or easily machine one from a thick washer.

I’ll look around for an angled weld washer. I thought about drilling the knuckle out to 1 in and getting ruffstuff weld washers to make it straight but this will work just fine.
 
I’ll look around for an angled weld washer. I thought about drilling the knuckle out to 1 in and getting ruffstuff weld washers to make it straight but this will work just fine.

I'm with you, optimally the arms would just have a flat surface either through machining or a welded insert/washer. But I'm also kinda lazy so a separate washer or machining the misalignment (also a cheaper and replaceable part) gets the job done. If you do find an angled washer that would work, buy a few spares because you'll eventually lose one the night before a trip. :D
 
Thanks for the info. I need to move the lowers a little more in but would only be to the end of the plate i have there and correct the angle on them as its a little off. I already have gussets cut for the top of the plates thatll be full welded adn capped so hoping to not have any issues.

**I fully gusseted and boxed mine as well. If you move your mounts in to the inner edge of those plates they will identical to mine.

Mind posting some pictures of your axle end upper link? I think i got it figured out but always help seeing what others did. Tyring to clear the ac compressor on the 3.4 is proving to be a bitch and im not willing to lose the ac cause vegas summers suck lol.

**I dont have any pics right this moment. But with your revised version above, it too is pretty much identical to mine. I know I keep saying that, but seriously all of your link mounts look EXACTLY like mine. Only difference being my truck is an 85 with a 22r and 8" housing.
 
Moving along. I think everything is in place. Need to get some dom to really start cycling everything. Panhard and draglink are in their approximate place I think. Clearance is tight. And garage is getting full with tools...

4ABED25D-609A-4116-8A45-FE2E67BC7450.jpeg


087A0D9F-99FE-4648-A832-E56D1C04E56F.jpeg


E6BBBA92-9B95-4B21-B065-A21D831250C7.jpeg


6E27EAF9-4B08-49EC-955E-4BEB5B22E2F8.jpeg


C988C28B-AF71-4865-A1D3-B1590C1F0524.jpeg
 
**I dont have any pics right this moment. But with your revised version above, it too is pretty much identical to mine. I know I keep saying that, but seriously all of your link mounts look EXACTLY like mine. Only difference being my truck is an 85 with a 22r and 8" housing.

That’s what I’m starting to realize. There is only so much adjustment and at this point I’m kind of putting stuff we’re it fits and adjusting from there
 
Got some dom in town and got all my links and steering etc cut. Need to get two 7/8 1 inch tube inserts as the ones I have are to big for the tie rod but other than that it’s time to really start cycling everything. Also had to move the drag link above the steering arm so that’ll get double shear

B94B4DBB-9EBA-4489-B4F8-F5110EDB3861.jpeg


3D612BFA-E5C8-4026-AB59-CF3F1727F99D.jpeg


E756E593-8CCF-47AE-BBBF-5F9EA73A6FED.jpeg


482EC2A0-3488-4D1E-9F09-17FD4AB71B52.jpeg
 
More good progress. Frame notched for draglink and panhard. All brackets are made. Need to drill the hole for the pitman arm and finalize the panhard. Looks like everything clears while cycling. Got one bump stop tacked. Going to start on the shock mounts tomorrow hopefully.

I also made a mistake when putting the cs on had them about an 1/8 in to far on the axle tube on each side keeping the locking hub cap from turning. Made a cradle out of some 1/2 plate scrap I had laying around and got them pushed out. Passenger side barely took any force. Driver side bent a bunch of plate and took some heat and ice but got themdone.

292E17EF-C343-4C63-847C-D0534A33595E.jpeg


1D683C2A-70DA-4B2A-9178-6468633CD89A.jpeg


E04629B7-E114-45C5-A8E7-BBD41874A643.jpeg


8D7030FD-F467-4382-A23A-731EE41D5690.jpeg


1C627CD3-662A-45BA-BD19-855D0AC0BF98.jpeg
 
5 or 6 different panhard brackets later and I finally have something I like. Draglink and panhard are within a degree of each other and pretty close in length. Got my bump stops tac’d so I have a hard stop point when cycling the suspension and started locking up the lower shock mounts as I was struggling coming up with an idea to mount them in such a tight space.
Idea is to angle them back 8-10 degrees to make sure they clear the hood. I may need to notch the bumpstops into the frame though

A3D0F17A-891A-4059-ADF7-AE1F1896F479.jpeg


824645DB-FE10-45F4-845C-DD52F0AB3156.jpeg


E6941211-FD4F-459B-B501-09CD0B48F242.jpeg


12A0C3DF-7DEE-4EEB-A0A2-6F53D1955107.jpeg


AC5ADAF5-874A-4177-A54E-667A2673DB36.jpeg
 
I love the ghetto puller.

The front axle is looking killer so far!

Are you going to add more to the steering arms too for double shear? Everything is getting snug, it'll definitely be good to cycle the steering lock to lock with the suspension flexed out either way to make sure the arms clear the shocks, brackets, etc.
 
I love the ghetto puller.

The front axle is looking killer so far!

Are you going to add more to the steering arms too for double shear? Everything is getting snug, it'll definitely be good to cycle the steering lock to lock with the suspension flexed out either way to make sure the arms clear the shocks, brackets, etc.

Plan is to double shear everything. Steering arm and pitman arm will get double shear just cause but not really sure if it’s necessary lol.

thanks. Moving along. Not sure I’ll make my deadline but I’ll sure as hell try.
 
Notched the frame some more for the draglink. Still not enough so think I’ll end up putting a small section of frame on top and bridging it and cutting the entire notch out. Also got the bumps recessed and mocked up a shock to figure out how much downtravel I’ll get. Just a temporary shock tower. Will get redone wider to accommodate the coilover as well.

6B5C8439-918D-4101-98FA-A6125C97381D.jpeg


20E710FC-DC03-45AE-860C-CCD7AD53D7B7.jpeg


49090D92-833D-4378-951A-7E1D0443F1C1.jpeg


13FF4D3B-CD7C-48E0-9FF8-E035E9ED3458.jpeg


A2981512-65F4-4A9B-B1FB-2F5A6B07BB9B.jpeg
 
Looks good. Id add some material on top of the frame where you notched it. What do those tires actually mesure ?
 
Not in the notched area it isn't. How much frame height is left, like 1.5 " ? It doesn't matter that it's heavier wall, width/depth contributes more to strength than wall thickness. Easy enough to weld a piece of 2"x2" over the top with 45° cut ends. Round or beveled notches are also better structurally than square.
 
Looks good. Id add some material on top of the frame where you notched it. What do those tires actually mesure ?

Last post I said I’m going to have to notch the frame more. I’ll bridge the top with another piece of the new frame and cut out the rest of that. With some fish plates should be plenty strong.
 
Why would you? It’s stronger than the stock frame.

Because its cut at or past the half way point. And it has 90 degrees sharp angles that create a big stress riser, instead of a radius notch. Think about how much stress will be on that spot while winching.
 
Last post I said I’m going to have to notch the frame more. I’ll bridge the top with another piece of the new frame and cut out the rest of that. With some fish plates should be plenty strong.

Yes it should. I should learn to read instead of skim at look at pictures. :homer: carry on
 
Short break for the holidays but finally found some time and motivation to go out and bust out the lower shock mounts and start on the uppers.

5E5ECAE1-A53A-4B2D-9FE8-D53834F15785.jpeg


BA4A44A0-24C4-437A-8F19-FDAE2D7F501F.jpeg


31269111-3045-4B9E-B418-6553469E4245.jpeg


592F966F-ABC9-4BFA-9595-8489AAFE4584.jpeg


8094BAAB-F637-431E-9B02-FF35B9D5BBF8.jpeg
 
Looks like I actually did something today. Got the passenger side shocks mounted and tacked together. Onto the driver tomorrow and then more cycling.

things are really tight. Had to rotate the bump can so the bypass clears the bolts on full articulation and will have to drill a hole in the panhard mount to get a nut on the shock bolt. Lots of clearancing and cycling to be done.

hood still closes. Fenders just sagging in that picture. Shocks are angled about 5 degrees back and tops angled 2 degrees out to clear everything.

FCF7AF76-13FB-4960-949D-D540434B1695.jpeg


2D91F5B1-17DC-44E0-9B58-1F35AB32C21F.jpeg


61AE17F3-A1A0-48E0-933A-6E2EEC0DC862.jpeg


1820CED2-87C7-4CB7-845B-177A8A340342.jpeg


FB67C73E-1405-4CB9-B7AD-FBE8EE8D6E9B.jpeg
 
Few more

the capture nuts are sweet. First time using them and adding the weld washer fish plate thing.

figueed not bad for all hand cut for the most part. Bought the capture nuts and my dad cut the weld washers on his cnc table

1B5C44DB-3306-4DB1-815A-1712FA0F37C0.jpeg


DF87D2F8-F2D6-4ED5-9D9D-9199CB411996.jpeg


6587D60A-3F52-4AEC-BC3E-956880A62023.jpeg


BB3DA1F4-43C0-4F4B-8D52-5CD3FAFCEA05.jpeg


D6029ABE-4A5F-4254-A41D-5AC786F60195.jpeg
 
Top Back Refresh