glacially slow machine shop build

[arse_sidewards]

While all this was happening I pulled the distributor to "rebuild" and by "rebuild" I mean clean a half century of varnish/sludge off it and not clean anything. The distributor was almost seized from the varnish and the housing with the gears that turn the distributor was bone dry and absolutely full of rust so it's good that I took it all apart. Sorry I didn't take many pics but it was one of those things that clearly was gonna take way more time than planned so I just worked on it.

Someone at some point lost one of the distributor hold downs and their solution was to lose the O-ring so that it would sit flat with one tie down.

I just cleaned the distributor gears with a wire brush. Finish isn't great but for something that's gonna run in oil I think it will be fine. The roll pin looked like it was replaced with a scrap of something at some point so I drilled it out for a 3/16 roll pin.

 

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I really don't like the brackets that hold the carriage down. They contact on the outboard edge then the bolts draw them up until they clamp the ways. I am considering sticking some shims under there so I can tighten the bolts all the way or replacing the bolts with studs and doing the "two nut" deal to lock them.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Got the apron on. It was a bitch since you have to align two studs and like four shafts before it holds itself up and it's just about the limit of what one person can manipulate with the required precision.

 

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The Z auto-feed handle is cracked. I assume it happened in the same incident that bend the X manual feed handle.

I'm not sure if I can repair this without doing 99% of the work of building a new handle since a "new handle" would just be a handle nut with the thread drilled out and drilled for a cross pin.

 

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Got the loader running, finally. Runs great on starting fluid. Oil pressure gauge wasn't working but there was enough oil to leak when I loosened the fitting.

 

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My brother and I took the steering column jacket off the loader today. It's bent. I have no idea how the top sheet-metal isn't mangled. I guess it must have not been bolted to that support when it got hit by whatever hit it. All the bend is at the base of the column. Of course it's a 1.75 tube so I can't use a 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 pipe. We decided to just run it without the column jacket until I got the lathe running and could open up the ID of the base adapter.

Note the stretch marks in the paint on the picture where the tube wall rolled over.

 

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Just posting these so I don't forget how the back side of the apron goes together.

 

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Got the master cylinder, gas pedal assembly, throttle linkage and floor installed today. I had to make a Z link for the throttle because my carb isn't the OEM one and the ball studs don't support much misalignment. I cut the floor in half and welded on some flat stock to make it two pieces because installing it as a single piece is a bitch. Not it's easy. The throttle doesn't fully return to idle because the linkage arm on the valve is swinging nearly vertical as it approaches idle. I'm gonna fix that with a spring. Still need to adjust the stop on the gas pedal so I don't break anything.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I ran the loader on gasoline for the first time today. It starts and runs great. No issues whatsoever. Oil pressure is 20-something PSI with 10W30 but I have no idea what RPM that's at. I need to get the tach hooked up.

Also found out that the keyway in the coupling for the steering/hydraulic pump is wasted. Coupling is 3/4 and the pump is bigger so I assume that they designed in that weak point on purpose. However, in my later model service literature the shaft coupling is splined so maybe this was a common failure point. I could probably shim it out to get more of the keyway in contact with the shaft but that's ghetto enough it probably won't work for long. Half of the keyway is still good. I could stick a shaft in there and then use a pair of sprockets and chain to connect the pump to the motor. Not sure what I'm gonna do.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

I ran the loader on gasoline for the first time today. It starts and runs great. No issues whatsoever. Oil pressure is 20-something PSI with 10W30 but I have no idea what RPM that's at. I need to get the tach hooked up.

Also found out that the keyway in the coupling for the steering/hydraulic pump is wasted. Coupling is 3/4 and the pump is bigger so I assume that they designed in that weak point on purpose. However, in my later model service literature the shaft coupling is splined so maybe this was a common failure point. I could probably shim it out to get more of the keyway in contact with the shaft but that's ghetto enough it probably won't work for long. Half of the keyway is still good. I could stick a shaft in there and then use a pair of sprockets and chain to connect the pump to the motor. Not sure what I'm gonna do.

Weld it up and cut a new keyway, or just cut a new key someplace else.

 

[[486]]

new keyway 180 deg out
green loctite on reassembly

 

[arse_sidewards]

Fuck it. Bought a keyway broach set. After pricing out just the broaches I'm basically paying $40 to not have to track down a bunch of shafting and cut deep keyways in it.

 

[bgaidan]

Coulda just broached it in the mill or lathe....

But push broaches are fuckin' cool. I keep buying them at auctions for some reason. I probably have 100+ guide bushings, but never the one I actually need.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Coulda just broached it in the mill or lathe....

But push broaches are fuckin' cool. I keep buying them at auctions for some reason. I probably have 100+ guide bushings, but never the one I actually need.

Explain how I'm gonna broach an internal keyway on a mill. If it were a 4" shaft yeah I could stick a small end mill down there and get a tolerable radius but it's a 3/4" coupling.

Guide bushings are stupid easy to make as needed since they're just a extra deep keyed shaft.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Explain how I'm gonna broach an internal keyway on a mill. If it were a 4" shaft yeah I could stick a small end mill down there and get a tolerable radius but it's a 3/4" coupling.

Guide bushings are stupid easy to make as needed since they're just a extra deep keyed shaft.

Lock the spindle holding a hss tool in the correct position, and run the z axis up and down taking a small bit off each time. Basically using it like a shaper.

 

[[486]]

Explain how I'm gonna broach an internal keyway on a mill. If it were a 4" shaft yeah I could stick a small end mill down there and get a tolerable radius but it's a 3/4" coupling.

Guide bushings are stupid easy to make as needed since they're just a extra deep keyed shaft.

grind a square cutter outta an old broken endmill or something
use the quill like a slotter

I've done it on the lathe. It's why I bought a shaper.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Coulda just broached it in the mill or lathe....

But push broaches are fuckin' cool. I keep buying them at auctions for some reason. I probably have 100+ guide bushings, but never the one I actually need.

Same, ive got a good collection going. Keys, hex, square and use them quite often. Last one I did was a 6" long 1/2" key to fix my press brake flywheel that looked much worse than that hub. Way more material than I'd ever want to broach on a lathe or mill.

 

[[486]]

I'd hate to try and find a shaper nowadays
fucking thing took a couple years to find a decade ago before they got all the youtube idiot hype

 

[arse_sidewards]

;n361885]I'd hate to try and find a shaper nowadays
fucking thing took a couple years to find a decade ago before they got all the youtube idiot hype

The benchtop ones are stupid like every other benchtop machine.

The ones that don't fit in a studio apartment are reasonably priced but rare.

Clapped out Bridgeport shaping heads for for about a grand.

I'm probably just going to get something like this eventually.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...58ffa060NU1EkQ

Lock the spindle holding a hss tool in the correct position, and run the z axis up and down taking a small bit off each time. Basically using it like a shaper.

I'm aware of that trick and have used it on a lathe. I was under the impression doing it regularly was a great way to wear out spindle bearings because static load vs rolling load. But that might just be bullshit that someone who didn't know what they were talking about made up to sound smart. I'm well off enough now that I'd rather have broaches that can do it 1/10th the time.

 

[bgaidan]

Explain how I'm gonna broach an internal keyway on a mill. If it were a 4" shaft yeah I could stick a small end mill down there and get a tolerable radius but it's a 3/4" coupling.

Guide bushings are stupid easy to make as needed since they're just a extra deep keyed shaft.

Lock the spindle holding a hss tool in the correct position, and run the z axis up and down taking a small bit off each time. Basically using it like a shaper.

I'm aware of that trick and have used it on a lathe. I was under the impression doing it regularly was a great way to wear out spindle bearings because static load vs rolling load. But that might just be bullshit that someone who didn't know what they were talking about made up to sound smart. I'm well off enough now that I'd rather have broaches that can do it 1/10th the time.

For production work? Yeah, I wouldn't do it day in and day out. But for a one-off, you're not going to hurt the machine. Especially the lathe....taking a heavy cut puts far more load on the moving parts than scraping a thou at a time out of a keyway slot. You'd have that done on the lathe in less time than it took you to order the broach set.


But it's not like I've ever needed an excuse to buy more tools either.

long 1/2" key to fix my press brake flywheel that looked much worse than that hub. Way more material than I'd ever want to broach on a lathe or mill.

I only have a couple square ones. I'd really like more along with some hex. Gives me a bunch of ideas of shit I could make with them.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Got the brakes off the loader today. Left side needs a wheel seal badly. Turns out I didn't even have to pull the drums, just the wheels. The only thing wrong with the wheel portion of the brake system was a busted line on the right side. If someone had just fixed that when it became an issue back in the 80s or 90s the master cylinder probably wouldn't have rusted in place. All the brake lines are copper but I replaced the broken one with steel.

Based on the rubber boots the wheel cylinders look like they were replaced at some point. The both had brake fluid in them so that saved me from having to replace them. The shoes are on their way to de-laminating.

8/12 of the wheel studs came out with the nut. One of the wheel wedges is cracked and one of the stud holes has a helicoil in it that backed half way out with the stud. I'm just gonna reassemble it all as is and plan on spending a couple weekends putting discs on it if I ever have to take it apart again.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Passenger side didn't want to come off. I knocked down the ridge with an angle grinder once I got the drum off.

 

[Smokewrench]

My old man had a couple of those loaders years ago, he thought they were the best thing ever. Pretty sure we spent more time getting them unstuck than actually using them.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Looks like something left the garage today.

You can tell where I was on the gas because that made it leak more

 

[arse_sidewards]

The brake cutoff for the transmission is gonna take some getting used to. It kind of jerks as the transmission fully engages when you take off the brakes. I also found out they give you two pedals to push on the brake for a reason in this thing. Oh well, it works well enough. The leak is at a fitting on the top of the trans valve body so easy enough to get to. I still don't have a seat back installed in this but due to the braking situation it has climbed in priority.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I rigged a spring onto the throttle. The accelerator pulls on a rod that actuates a valve for the transmission and that has a linkage that pulls on the throttle. Unfortunate it's swinging nearly vertical at idle so it doesn't really push/pull on the throttle on the carb itself very well. This resulted in "idle" being somewhere between 500 and 2000rpm if my shitty tach is to be believed. Hence why I slapped a spring on it. There was already a hole in the yellow bracket for the spring to hook to so either this is an OEM hack or I'm not the first person with this idea.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Didn't have space to swing the tap wrench so I made a tool I've been meaning to make for a long time.

View attachment

 

[arse_sidewards]

Also broached a new key-way in the coupling. Was super sketchy with the HF hydraulic press. I had to shim it to keep it from going sideways.

 

[[486]]

lisle makes a set of tap sockets that are really nice
I generally don't have them with so I find the 12pt socket that fits best and use that instead

 

[arse_sidewards]

;n376013]lisle makes a set of tap sockets that are really nice
I generally don't have them with so I find the 12pt socket that fits best and use that instead

Tap sockets don't let me use my impact to spin a drill bit.