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glacially slow machine shop build

Awhile back I did a bunch of cooling system work on a Mercedes Sprinter for someone who happens to be an artist so I had her make me a data plate for the lathe in return. My brother came up with the name. I had my friend cut it out on his CNC. Came out pretty nice. I might sandblast it so it looks 100yo like everything else on the lathe.

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The valve that keeps the trans from building pressure at idle is seized.

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Trying to make sense of the wiring diagram for the loader tach.


If I'm reading this right, I can wire it to the distributor points (-) side of the ignition coil which would get my 2 pulses per rev and then I press the button until the hour meter says 0002?

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is old motor with carbatooter
having no needings of tach-o-meter
maximum speeds is set by undersized carbinator venturi flowing volume

efforts of installations are to be spent better upon beating head upon edifice of list of mechanical problem
 
Did the fuel system bowl and plumbing on the loader today. Started off having to resort to the air hammer and a torx bit to get the plug out of the fuel tank but went smoothly otherwise. Gas pedal linkage rod got reinstalled and I cleaned off the rust that was causing the gas pedal to seize in its bushings. Also replaced both belts. There's plenty of room to slide the pump off without disconnecting hydraulics. I'm still waiting on O-rings to rebuild the valve by the throttle.

And here's most of the consumables the loader uses just so I don't forget.

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[486 said:
;n318082]is old motor with carbatooter
having no needings of tach-o-meter
maximum speeds is set by undersized carbinator venturi flowing volume

efforts of installations are to be spent better upon beating head upon edifice of list of mechanical problem
Click to expand...

If it weren't my machine I'd do it that way. But I'm gonna have to live with this for a long time so I might as well give it a tack. I'm pretty sure it's gonna run like shit and knowing what rpm it's doing what at will make my life easier when I have to fix it.
 
Belts fixed. Gotta get started on wiring.

Also I rebuild the valve for the loader. Was stupid easy as expected. The hardest part was working up the will go to searching for the O-ring kit I knew I had somewhere.

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The PH-226 oil filter cross references to this. I can't find one for under $10 and they seem to be around $15-20 most places. Would there be any harm in getting a "solvent trap" and drilling/tapping it to 3/4-16 so I can run the same Motorcraft FL1A (approx half the micron rating, includes bypass, lower burst pressure) that half my shit runs?

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arse_sidewards said:
The PH-226 oil filter cross references to this. I can't find one for under $10 and they seem to be around $15-20 most places. Would there be any harm in getting a "solvent trap" and drilling/tapping it to 3/4-16 so I can run the same Motorcraft FL1A (approx half the micron rating, includes bypass, lower burst pressure) that half my shit runs?

Click to expand...

Why do that work for a filter you may change twice in your life? Spend 5 more dollars, get the one that crosses and move on the the next repair.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Why do that work for a filter you may change twice in your life? Spend 5 more dollars, get the one that crosses and move on the the next repair.
Click to expand...

I'll re-check the manual but I recall thinking "wow that oil change is a low interval"

Edit: Fuck it. Just bought an LF607 for $8
 
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arse_sidewards said:
I'll re-check the manual but I recall thinking "wow that oil change is a low interval"

Edit: Fuck it. Just bought an LF607 for $8
Click to expand...

Most of my junk takes like 5 gallons of oil and around the house use doesn't stack up hours.
 
arse_sidewards said:
The PH-226 oil filter cross references to this. I can't find one for under $10 and they seem to be around $15-20 most places. Would there be any harm in getting a "solvent trap" and drilling/tapping it to 3/4-16 so I can run the same Motorcraft FL1A (approx half the micron rating, includes bypass, lower burst pressure) that half my shit runs?

Click to expand...

If I can remember to do it I will look at my filters I have on hand. I have a box of old Purolator filters that fit absolutely nothing I own. They might be a 5/8"x18 thread...
 
Got the master cylinder off the loader. Thankfully the last guy didn't use the bottom bolt because that saved me from having to take off one plate.

Based on the rust and what the PO said (that he got it without brakes) the last time there was anything in there Bill Clinton was getting blown in the oval office. Prior to that it was being used to move bulk material in a foundry and you don't need brakes for that kind of work so it might have been even longer since the brakes last worked.

The piston is seized all the way forward. Right now it's sitting in my bench vise with ATF in it. The only marking is "1051" on one side of the reservoir and "12" on the other.

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After measuring for a pin for my lathe belt it looks like 5/32 is the right size. There is zero change I'm gonna use a purpose built pin instead of a welding rod. If it wears out then that's my excuse to buy some 11018 since I should probably have some of that on the shelf for when something really hard breaks. I broke down and bought a lacing vise because after fucking with it there was zero change I was going to get the consistency and alignment I want laying it out by hand.
 
Did some test parts in MDF and decided to just omit the mounting holes since it'll be better to just drill holes where they need to be than to copy the oversize ones from the original dash.

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I'd have got the gauges installed but my brother and I spent all day dicking around replacing instrument cluster lights and a speedometer cable so I'll get to it next week.
 
Got the belt on the lathe tonight

There wasn't enough clearance between the idler pulleys for the belt spice so I had to route around one of them. I don't think it's a big deal since there's still more belt on the pulley than the last guy was running.

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every time I use my grandpa's flat belt logan I tell myself I'll cut the pullies for either serpentine or cog belts
but I never do
some day I'll buy a gear head of some sort
probably the same day that I become old and never build anything ever again
 
Oil drain plug for the loader was interesting. There was a fair amount of sliver in that mess. Oh well, rather have that than water.

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arse_sidewards said:
Oil drain plug for the loader was interesting. There was a fair amount of sliver in that mess. Oh well, rather have that than water.
Click to expand...

Looks normal for old junk that probably didn't get serviced much. Surprising not to have water just from condensation after sitting for long.
 
[486 said:
;n333552]every time I use my grandpa's flat belt logan I tell myself I'll cut the pullies for either serpentine or cog belts
but I never do
some day I'll buy a gear head of some sort
probably the same day that I become old and never build anything ever again
Click to expand...

I'd go with a cogged belt over a serp belt. No point in fixing what isn't broke though. You can get a pretty significant improvement by replacing leather belts with rubber.

Dethmachinefab said:
Looks normal for old junk that probably didn't get serviced much. Surprising not to have water just from condensation after sitting for long.
Click to expand...

Yeah, not bad enough to make me worried. I stuck some Walmart 10W30 synthetic in there. We'll see what the hot idle pressure is. I'm not too thrilled by the amount of oil by the breather though but we'll see. Worst case I toss a PCV on it.
 
Got all the gauges installed today. The only one that's not functional is the oil temp one. I need to figure out where in the hydraulics I want to tie it in. Of course the probe for the coolant gauge was 6" shorter than it needed to be.

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Still need to tie down the wire loom and oil pressure line. We tried to start it but there wasn't even a hint of a spark.

And yes that lower line going to the coolant probe is leaking. I was in a hurry and fucked up the flare. Won't be hard to fix.
 
Working on the spindle oiling for the lathe. Despite predating any industry standards for this sort of thing the oil cups are compatible with 9/16-18 O-ring fittings. I love when that happens.
 
My brother came over since he has nothing better to do today.

The bracket for the master cylinder turned out to be a real PITA. You have to pull the steering gear to get it in. I need to pull the steering gear (or at least get it floatering around loose in there) anyway because the column is bent and I need to replace the tube. No big deal.

Steering wheel really didn't want to come off. The business end of the puller wound up flaring the steering column (it's hollow for a horn wire before we swapped to a gear style puller which we promptly bent but no so bad we couldn't stick some lengths of pipe over the studs. Also we stuffed the washers into the puller so I made more out of some 1/4" thick scrap. We finally got the steering wheel off by putting a 3/4 breaker bar and 2ft pipe on the puller screw and saying "fuck it let's see what breaks". Turned out the rust was what broke. I still gotta die grind the flared portion of the steering shaft off so the wheel can come off but progress is progress.
 
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