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glacially slow machine shop build

Didn't have space to swing the tap wrench so I made a tool I've been meaning to make for a long time. :laughing:

Between this and the dowel puller from the other thread, I need to order some more cheap ER holders.

[486 said:
;n376013]lisle makes a set of tap sockets that are really nice
I generally don't have them with so I find the 12pt socket that fits best and use that instead

I've had a brand new set of these for over a year and keep forgetting I have them. Just a couple hours ago I chased a hole in an engine to mount it on the stand. Right about the time I was done backing the tap out with the nut lathe I remembered I had the the sockets. :rolleyes: Guess I should move them from the tool drawer to the tap drawer where they'r more likely to jump out at me the next time I grab a tap wrench.
 
Spent way too long fucking around rebuilding a rear wiper linkage for one of my Subarus today. Motor was burnt out. I'm sure the grease being the color of pumpkin and the consistency of peanut butter had something to do with it. The motor from a 2nd gen Legacy swaps on and some of the linkage bits are compatible (the worm gear being the most important one and the one most likely to break). I really need to get a parts washer. Spent way too long with a tooth brush and gasoline cleaning all the grease off this. Of course it still doesn't work. There's a point in the travel where the contact traces go dead and the motor stops running. I guess I should have swapped the switch as well. Reman units are available for $125 but I got this one for free at the junkyard.

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My brother came by and fixed the leak on the transmission on the loader today. Turned out a fitting was just loose. And then while testing it by trying to climb a set of chalks (steering wheel wasn't installed so I didn't want to drive anywhere) one of the signal hoses that runs from the pump on the engine to the transmission valve body exploded. There's two generations of hose on this machine and this is one of the older ones and the transmission puts out somewhere over 2000psi so I'm not exactly surprised. We removed the hose and I had him stand there doing the Dutch boy routine while I found plugs to keep the system from draining out. It's 1/8 NTP which is kind of hard to find fittings for if you need them to be beveled for use with those flared nut fittings that stuff this age uses.

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Impacts are hard on tap's.

And tap sockets are 3/8" drive usually so you could impact till it breaks one.
 
Impacts are hard on tap's.

And tap sockets are 3/8" drive usually so you could impact till it breaks one.

you don't give it the big-dick full braap, you feather the trigger so it's just gently papping along
air>>>>electric for stuff like this
just because the jaw clutch impact mechanism sucks for feathering and nobody seems to make an electric impact with a proper twin hammer or even a pin clutch impact mechanism
 
[486 said:
;n376906]

you don't give it the big-dick full braap, you feather the trigger so it's just gently papping along
air>>>>electric for stuff like this
just because the jaw clutch impact mechanism sucks for feathering and nobody seems to make an electric impact with a proper twin hammer or even a pin clutch impact mechanism

I've tapped a ton of stuff with my M18 1/4" hex drive impacts. I hardly ever use them for actually driving screws/construction uses, 99% of the time they have a 1/4" hex to 3/8" square drive adapter in them. And yeah those tap sockets are nice to have on hand!
 
[486 said:
;n376906]

you don't give it the big-dick full braap, you feather the trigger so it's just gently papping along
air>>>>electric for stuff like this
just because the jaw clutch impact mechanism sucks for feathering and nobody seems to make an electric impact with a proper twin hammer or even a pin clutch impact mechanism

I use 18v ryobi stuff because cheap. Their 2nd generation impact has 3 selectable "speeds". The lowest would be perfect for tapping. Though a 1/4" impact driver would probably do just as well.
 
This is the build thread I started over on pirate when I bought my house a little over 2yr ago.

http://www.4x4-16.com/glacially-slow-basement-machine-shop-build_11018525-6.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop...hop-build.html

Here's a pdf of the thread through May 3 2020.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u0q...ew?usp=sharing
I like your ingenuity.

I had friends who had no clue help me move my shop when I bought the current house.

We had to move everything into a storage locker(3 actually) and they were awed and terrified at some of the things we did.

I knew we were safe and i took precautions with some of the ones whe seriously had no clue, but it all worked out.

Most were impressed not only with me, but especially with themselves in what they were capable of doing.

Will be following.
 
Just posting these so I don't forget how the back side of the apron goes together.

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Thats the good thing about old machines, they rarely show much sign of wear for yheir sge.

Down side is they take up a lot more room than a newer machine of the same capability.
 
Decided to pull the steering gear because it feeling suspiciously crunchy.

Lines marked.
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In case you were wondering where all that water on the tailgate was coming from. Thankfully someone swapped out all the oil for grease which protected it while rain drilled in the steering column for the last decade.

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I didn't take pictures by my brother and I cleaned it with gasoline and it all came out nice. The top bearing for the input shaft wasn't ideal but it was good enough for me and I didn't feel like delaying everything a week. That bearing is so high up it wouldn't have ever seen much lube and would have got the most water.
 
The steering shaft is hollow all the way through so the horn wire can go through. The bottom cap has a straw coming off it that goes 10" into the shaft so that when the box is full of oil it doesn't come up high enough to go over the straw then down and out the horn wire hole in the bottom cap. I removed the straw and used some arc welder brazing rods to fill the hole. First time using these rods. Considering I was filling a hole in thin material with no backing and these rods are $20/lb (so I wasn't gonna waste them practicing) I'm happy with the result. The steering shaft was already the right size for a 5/8 fine thread tap so I tapped it and threw on a crush washer.
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As you can see the top/input has no seal. I'm going to fix this when I re-do the column.

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The sector shaft engages with the worm on the input shaft using this weird that rides in rollers. Usually a steering gear has a toothed rack that moves up and down (and is assisted by hydraulics if it's a power gear) and three or so teeth on the sector shaft that engage with it. I've never seen one like this before.

This picture is the rollers. You're looking at the end where the lock washer and nut go in the diagram. The other end is a cone shaped pin that engages with worm threads on the input shaft.

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wierd, now I wanna try and stick some normal flux coated brazing rod in my stick welder stinger and see what it does haha

the steering box sector shaft thing is pretty normal, think of it the same as you would one that has a roller wheel on the sector shaft and a worm gear on the input
avoiding patent infringement on the recirculating ball concept, no doubt

ETA: oh right, don't bother fucking around with a seal on the top of the column, just make it so that it overlaps in such a way that rain can not run down the steering shaft
if you seal it then you need a breather
 
It was some fancy pants specialty shit I was brazing with. Turns out it's $30, not $20. ZENA 1/8" NO-Gas Arc Brazing Rods -- Braze WITHOUT Gas! | eBay

You should try it with normal flux coated rods and see how it works. I bet it would be difficult as fuck to control and work poorly but still work.

I was planning on adding a cork breather in the oil fill hole and a grease zerk in the lower hole. That's easier than fucking with the column.

I didn't realize recirculating ball was so new it would still be under patent in the 1950s. I figured they invented that in the 20s or something.
 
This lathe has no dials on the hand wheels so I'm going to fit a DRO.

Measurements for DRO purposes are 10' x2'6" x 1'

I have to go with magnetic tape for the big axis.

I think I'm gonna call SRA measurement and just write a big check for once in my life. They seem to be the only ones selling a good selection of magnetic DRO parts and they happen to be local so I can skip on shipping.
 
Also, here's the oiling system I did yesterday.

That center clamp probably isn't really necessary on a stationary machine but it made me feel good knowing that the copper line won't fatigue from all the earthquakes we don't have here.
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The other project for today, not really related to the shop but I need somewhere to host images:flipoff2:

Someone on Legacy Central shipped me these fender braces to test fit since I have a plethora of cars sitting around without fenders. The point of them is that they're 1/4 aluminum so they're less flexy than the stock stamped steel ones. They also fit much tighter. I has to start three bolts then run a tap through so that the side load from the tap centering in the weld nut (in the body) would cut threads in the aluminum giving me enough clearance to fit.

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And back to the lathe:

Before running it I had to pull the back off the motor because the wires were catching in the fan. I extended them all 4" and then zip ties them in around the perimeter of the case where the windings went.

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When I was done one of the wires wound up with extra slack and really wanted to stick out the vent so I just left it there. :laughing:

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I'm about to buy a set of insert holders. Is it worth the additional price to go up to 1" (really 25mm) instead of the 3/4?

Is there any reason not to buy all my toolholders for the same insert?
 
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Depends if you have tooling for those holders, or you're buying new.

In my experience with used tooling, more often than not my holders aren't large enough for the tooling I got, meaning I have to cut down the tooling on the mill to use them on the lathe.

Point is, you can space a small tool up/down for use in a big tooling holder (within reason). It's harder to make a large tool small enough for a small tool holder.
 
Depends if you have tooling for those holders, or you're buying new.

In my experience with used tooling, more often than not my holders aren't large enough for the tooling I got, meaning I have to cut down the tooling on the mill to use them on the lathe.

Point is, you can space a small tool up/down for use in a big tooling holder (within reason). It's harder to make a large tool small enough for a small tool holder.
I don't have any inserts. I'd be buying new inserts and toolholders at the same time.

Here is the proposed purchase:
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