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French Tickler Buggy

Bebop said:
I didn’t waste too much time since I have to ride this weekend.

This will be the last ride of this axle so I only cared about it holding one last beatdown.

Hope you’ll laugh at this beautiful disaster :dustin:

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be38bd0b-8e85-429d-a24c-ce94fa4038bc-jpeg.jpg
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Needs more triangulation :flipoff2:
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
I beam trusses are garbage. I beams can twist up like bacon. Not that twisted bacon is a bad thing.

1669078960463.png


Just because a vendor makes an I beam truss and poors buy them does not mean they should be used.
I'm going to make some bacon now.
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A proper I beam truss where you have a web running from end to end up and over the diff with a web connecting it and the axle the whole way wouldn't be bad. Obviously it'd need reinforcement to keep it from bending fore-aft if you add link mounts on top of it but it would at least do the job of a truss and do it well. The tube itself should be capable of controlling rotational forces. It takes a hell of a lot of force to twist up a 3"+ 1/4+ wall pipe.

These stupid hoops that go over the fucking diff and don't actually connect to the diff anywhere are only useful as link mounts and even then they're marginal at that. They are absolutely worthless at being a truss and making it harder to bend the axle.

This is one of those areas where the aftermarket seems to have no interest in making something that even comes close to what a guy with a bunch of miller light boxes and a plasma cutter can do.
 
Bebop said:
Thoughts on the BK design ?
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Trash from a strength to weight perspective and it's not adding much strength. The truss and axle effectively form the flanges of a beam or channel. Without some web in there to keep them from spreading or getting closer you give up a fuckton of strength.
Bebop said:
My other option (and I like it better since I have it at the shop already) is the full length Artec with pinion tie in:
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It's better than what you had and broke by a long shot.

Bebop said:
I'm thinking I could only use the top plate and then completely box the thing all the way to create a fully welded assembly. Kinda like that without the logo/speed holes and with more ribbing inside (for her pleasure :laughing:).

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This is the best design in the thread so far, and also the lightest.
 
Dude, you need to nut up and weld whatever you choose to the housing. Get a weed burner, preheat and burn it in with nickle rod if you're so worried about it.

You wouldn't build shit out of an I-beam or rectangle tube that had a hole saw ran through the entire web. That's basically what you're doing when you're running a truss that doesn't connect the housing and the tube. The strength of a truss structure comes from the tension and compression resistance of the web that keeps the flanges (your axle and the top of your truss in this case) from getting closer together or farther apart. Without tying to the housing you are missing that web.

Sure, you could always throw more material at the problem, or you could just nut up and weld the damn thing.
 
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I think you'll be fine with the artec truss + gussets on the pinion tie-in. Hell, throw an overlapping set of tabs from the truss to the diff cover with a bolt through them if you want to go extra with it. Likely the cheapest/ quickest option considering you've got it on hand.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Maybe you're just beyond the point of using junkyard axles :flipoff2:
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Maybe. I'll give it one last try.

Rugger99 said:
Needs more triangulation :flipoff2:
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Always does !

Sonzabitches said:
I think you'll be fine with the artec truss + gussets on the pinion tie-in. Hell, throw an overlapping set of tabs from the truss to the diff cover with a bolt through them if you want to go extra with it. Likely the cheapest/ quickest option considering you've got it on hand.
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I agree. I like the bolt / diff cover tie in too.

arse_sidewards said:
Dude, you need to nut up and weld whatever you choose to the housing. Get a weed burner, preheat and burn it in with nickle rod if you're so worried about it.

You wouldn't build shit out of an I-beam or rectangle tube that had a hole saw ran through the entire web. That's basically what you're doing when you're running a truss that doesn't connect the housing and the tube. The strength of a truss structure comes from the tension and compression resistance of the web that keeps the flanges (your axle and the top of your truss in this case) from getting closer together or farther apart. Without tying to the housing you are missing that web.

Sure, you could always throw more material at the problem, or you could just nut up and weld the damn thing.
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I get it, and I agree. You made your point a few times.
 
Bebop said:
Thoughts on the BK design ?

Slide13_7052fcaa-80ee-4bf8-adc2-e33f580f9e4f_500x.jpg


My other option (and I like it better since I have it at the shop already) is the full length Artec with pinion tie in:

TR1403-GNKQ.jpg



I'm thinking I could only use the top plate and then completely box the thing all the way to create a fully welded assembly. Kinda like that without the logo/speed holes and with more ribbing inside (for her pleasure :laughing:).

s157808467826321046_p197_i1_w1163.png
Click to expand...

I agree with arse_sidewards comments on these designs. I do not like the large relatively unsupported span on the BK design, and it is not particularly light. The Artec design is better, but not the most efficient use of material. The I-beam style design is great for resisting bending, but not so great at handling the twisting forces generated by the links as previously pointed out. The boxed design in the third design is superior and will give the best strength to weight ratio of the three designs. Any truss should be welded directly to the center section and was a major contributor to why yours failed. I do not think the third design would need a pinion tie-in if you weld it to the center section, but if you like overkill, by all means, go for it. A little extra insurance is not a terrible idea considering the way you drive this thing :laughing:
 
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I wasn't gonna make it removable since the whole thing is headed to the trash when I come back :flipoff2:
 
it was mentioned that there is alot of force on a rear truss with links. i believe it. i have snapped one or two of these bolts , they were 3/8 grade 8 but now are 7/16 and no problems

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Think of an I-beam truss like an overhead single I-beam girder crane. The crane is only meant to see a vertical load.
 
white-rhino said:
I've wanted to improve mine since I bought it a couple years ago. This thread has me moving the priority up to this winter.
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I'm considering designing mine from scratch now.
I have access to a laser and CNC brake, I just need to make it in CAD first...
 
i like the idea of scratch built too. i think they all have some legit parts we all like but also they seem to all have something we would do different. so go forth and hit the CAD.
 
Bebop said:
I'm considering designing mine from scratch now.
I have access to a laser and CNC brake, I just need to make it in CAD first...
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Since mine is the Artec and it's not worth changing, I have 2 upgrades. 1) gusset the front pinion support. 2) get rid of the cast diff cover and go to a steel one. Then add a bracket to bolt to the truss, similar to your ghetto fab version. lol

I've cringed every time I have backed into a rock because I don't trust the cast cover. This is a good way to upgrade.
 
I like the cast covers since they recess the bolt heads better than the fabbed ones.
I'm even thinking about going with a Crane one for this reason.

I have no problem welding to cast.
 
I mean, maybe ? I don't have any experience with one.

I did bend the one I've got in the front. 3/8 plate. :homer:
 
The good cast covers are made from Ductile Iron (Nodular), so they will be 50% stronger than a plate cover unless you built that from 100ksi or domex/hardox. Mine have plenty of battle scars over 10+ years still going strong, I think you would have to try really hard to put a hole in one. Maybe have to hit another piece of metal around the diameter of a nickel, chunk of rebar sticking perfectly out and short like ~1" tall at high speed directly on a flat face of it. The shape deflects most hits and the load is compressive stress since it is captured by the ring of bolts.
 
Satan's_Minion said:
The good cast covers are made from Ductile Iron (Nodular), so they will be 50% stronger than a plate cover unless you built that from 100ksi or domex/hardox. Mine have plenty of battle scars over 10+ years still going strong, I think you would have to try really hard to put a hole in one. Maybe have to hit another piece of metal around the diameter of a nickel, chunk of rebar sticking perfectly out and short like ~1" tall at high speed directly on a flat face of it. The shape deflects most hits and the load is compressive stress since it is captured by the ring of bolts.
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Thank you for this.
Confirms what I'm thinking.

What brand are you using ?
Crane (I'm leaning towards these guys) are supposed to be made of "Cast from high strength 8620 Chromoly Steel"

craneaxle.com

GM 13 Bolt Differential Cover

Diff Covers are Shipped as Unfinished Steel
craneaxle.com craneaxle.com
 
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