WaterH
Well-known member
I think that could be re-welded and last even longer. But I guess if you have better one, who can argue with that?
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French Tickler Buggy
- Thread starter Bebop
- Start date
I think that could be re-welded and last even longer. But I guess if you have better one, who can argue with that?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
No shit, as much as I don't really like those artec (or similar) trusses. It's pretty obvious it was not burned on hot enough.
Sterlingfire
ignant
I would also consider a bridge to the pinion along with a bridge to the cover... but welding it better to the tubes would help as well
Bebop
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LMFAO at the keyboard warriors.
The truss is completely tweaked. It ripped half the material at the toe of the weld.
It was welded properly, buy someone who knows what he's doing (not me).
In the break, it also spun one of the tubes that was welded to the housing. It also cracked the 3/8 plate horizontally on the front side.
I broke it after a full tilt attempt at a big waterfall and the heavy bitch came back down a few feet and caught traction while at rev limiter.
While I agree the truss design is less than good (no pinion tie in and very limited weld length), saying the welds are what failed is bullshit.
I knew better and I should have added reinforcement to the truss a long time ago.
Since this axle was shit already (bent tubes and shaved housing), I didn't care.
Rugger99 : that's the beauty of trailing arms, shocks are completely fine.
The truss is completely tweaked. It ripped half the material at the toe of the weld.
It was welded properly, buy someone who knows what he's doing (not me).
In the break, it also spun one of the tubes that was welded to the housing. It also cracked the 3/8 plate horizontally on the front side.
I broke it after a full tilt attempt at a big waterfall and the heavy bitch came back down a few feet and caught traction while at rev limiter.
While I agree the truss design is less than good (no pinion tie in and very limited weld length), saying the welds are what failed is bullshit.
I knew better and I should have added reinforcement to the truss a long time ago.
Since this axle was shit already (bent tubes and shaved housing), I didn't care.
Rugger99 : that's the beauty of trailing arms, shocks are completely fine.
94toytruck
Eastcoast crawler
Damn, I never liked those narrow trusses.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
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I meant actually tying it into the center section with some nickle rod or whatever.
Exactly. It fell of because it was a wet noodle and it flexed and twisted and tore out at the ends. Which is why you should burn it in over its full length so it can't do that again.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
LMFAO at the keyboard warriors.
The truss is completely tweaked. It ripped half the material at the toe of the weld.
It was welded properly, buy someone who knows what he's doing (not me).
In the break, it also spun one of the tubes that was welded to the housing. It also cracked the 3/8 plate horizontally on the front side.
I broke it after a full tilt attempt at a big waterfall and the heavy bitch came back down a few feet and caught traction while at rev limiter.
While I agree the truss design is less than good (no pinion tie in and very limited weld length), saying the welds are what failed is bullshit.
I knew better and I should have added reinforcement to the truss a long time ago.
Since this axle was shit already (bent tubes and shaved housing), I didn't care.
Rugger99 : that's the beauty of trailing arms, shocks are completely fine.
You can obviously see that welds did not penetrate the truss material in the first set of pics and this last one. Just because it took some abuse to make it fail doesn't mean it was done right
Not going to use this as an excuse to go queer steer?
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
I beam trusses are garbage. I beams can twist up like bacon. Not that twisted bacon is a bad thing.
Just because a vendor makes an I beam truss and poors buy them does not mean they should be used.
I'm going to make some bacon now.
Just because a vendor makes an I beam truss and poors buy them does not mean they should be used.
I'm going to make some bacon now.
Sterlingfire
ignant
I was giving you shit, don't take it too personalLMFAO at the keyboard warriors.
The truss is completely tweaked. It ripped half the material at the toe of the weld.
It was welded properly, buy someone who knows what he's doing (not me).
In the break, it also spun one of the tubes that was welded to the housing. It also cracked the 3/8 plate horizontally on the front side.
I broke it after a full tilt attempt at a big waterfall and the heavy bitch came back down a few feet and caught traction while at rev limiter.
While I agree the truss design is less than good (no pinion tie in and very limited weld length), saying the welds are what failed is bullshit.
I knew better and I should have added reinforcement to the truss a long time ago.
Since this axle was shit already (bent tubes and shaved housing), I didn't care.
Rugger99 : that's the beauty of trailing arms, shocks are completely fine.
But i do hope you bridge the new one to the both the pinion and the cover for extra better support
Bebop
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Thoughts on the BK design ?
My other option (and I like it better since I have it at the shop already) is the full length Artec with pinion tie in:
I'm thinking I could only use the top plate and then completely box the thing all the way to create a fully welded assembly. Kinda like that without the logo/speed holes and with more ribbing inside (for her pleasure
).Bebop
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I have a rear steer housing that's ready to go.
But I elected not to run rear steer a few months ago already. Not compatible with my peanut brain that just wants to mash the throttle and go fast. And not compatible with my wallet to do it properly.
Already touched on the topic here :
French Tickler Buggy
You're right. Heavier tubing will be part of the rebuild and the new buggy (whenever either of these things happen is TBD).
irate4x4.com
and here :
French Tickler Buggy
Since I'm new here, I figured it'd be good for me to present my rig. Called the French Tickler cause I'm french and a female friend dubbed it like that... Go figure... I'm originally a lightweight crawler guy, samurai enthusiast and even had a campbell moon buggy for a little while. After...
irate4x4.com
Slander
Team no stickys
I was gonna guess a tundra center section with semi float 8lug outers on a fabbed housing or something cool like that, not some cookie cutter 14bolt, fail
Sterlingfire
ignant
Artec modified like you describe with the ribbing for sure.
Bebop
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I was gonna guess a tundra center section with semi float 8lug outers on a fabbed housing or something cool like that, not some cookie cutter 14bolt, fail
Sterlingfire
ignant
To be fair, he is trying to spend your money, not his
white-rhino
Older than dirt
I have the full width Artec. Seems good but still needs a gusset on the pinion plate. I'm not a fan of the bent 3/8 plate without a gusset in it. (it's on my to-do list)
Bebop
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Cool picture !I have the full width Artec. Seems good but still needs a gusset on the pinion plate. I'm not a fan of the bent 3/8 plate without a gusset in it.
I have the same truss in a box nearby, hence why I would have used it without thinking about it too much.
But now I'm interested in the public's opinion / input / design ideas.
No matter what a pinion tie-in is obviously going to be part of it.
white-rhino
Older than dirt
^^^ That pinion support is stronger for sure but I agree, I like the full width truss.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Obviously the pinion tie in is to help with the trust peeling off, but do you think that you'll need/want the full length truss? Are you going 4" tubes at the same time?
I'm no engineer, but I've heard some people say that the full length can lead to bent spindles since there is no give in the housing.
I'm no engineer, but I've heard some people say that the full length can lead to bent spindles since there is no give in the housing.
Bebop
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3.5" tubes.
My 4" tube is setup for rear steer, maybe one day I'll want to use it and/or sell it.
I do not care if the spindles bend, that'll be another weak link to fix. It's not like having bent axle tubes is a much better option.
My 4" tube is setup for rear steer, maybe one day I'll want to use it and/or sell it.
I do not care if the spindles bend, that'll be another weak link to fix. It's not like having bent axle tubes is a much better option.
Unit bearings and cups solve that possibility.
Full length trusses are one area I would be ok with adding the weight. 100% here due to application and driver.
94toytruck
Eastcoast crawler
I have the full length Artec on my 14b with the pinion tie in and the guard cut off. It hasn't been a issue and supports my bump pads and such. My biggest bitch is it's tall and there's not much meat in the center under the main plate but there's a big fawking gap.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
What's the solution if you're bending spindles?
I think the idea is to use a tube that holds up to what you're doing, but has some gibe, not just bend tubes
Were you bending the 3.5" tubes with the current axle?
Bebop
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Absolutely. But I'm trying to use what I have laying around here. Got like 5 14 bolts available including one with Mark Williams spool and shafts.
If I'm building a custom housing, I'm going UBs, 4" tubing and 10" centersection.
See above
Yes, tubes are bent on current housing.I think the idea is to use a tube that holds up to what you're doing, but has some gibe, not just bend tubes
Were you bending the 3.5" tubes with the current axle?
I don't think you understand how I drive and what I do with my rig
Shit that "flexes but doesn't give" never works out in the long run.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
If it's anything like my rig, that will still be in there 3 years from now, going strong.
Bebop
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WTF, we know each other ?If it's anything like my rig, that will still be in there 3 years from now, going strong.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Absolutely. But I'm trying to use what I have laying around here. Got like 5 14 bolts available including one with Mark Williams spool and shafts.
If I'm building a custom housing, I'm going UBs, 4" tubing and 10" centersection.
See above
Yes, tubes are bent on current housing.
I don't think you understand how I drive and what I do with my rig
Shit that "flexes but doesn't give" never works out in the long run.
I get, your group breaks parts. You're not that special
Everything flexes.
I'm not saying that your approach is wrong, just trying to provide a different perspective besides "moar truss"
I've heard a few people with the theory that a full truss only moves the problem to the spindle. I'll be curious what your experience will be here.
Obviously is 3.5" tubes aren't enough, you have to do something. Maybe you're just beyond the point of using junkyard axles