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French Tickler Buggy

Cast welds on knuckles have been thoroughly tested this weekend. They hold great.

My dumbass should have put more pressure in the tires.

5EB45B7F-F245-4F1F-834C-2DC7D62EA036.jpeg

2DDD985C-1D14-40EC-885C-3B04D9C47CCF.jpeg


I have put a smaller pulley on the pump and it’s overdriven 50% now. Solved 90% of my low rpm concerns. Doesn’t even feel slow when it’s cold.

93976565-2E8B-42EF-B615-AFDEDD0EA635.jpeg


But now the steering is overheating. Howe heat-sink in the shit location isn’t cutting it when I’m giving her the beans.
Back to the drawing board.
 
I hit them a lot. Bent a couple of rods so far. They're easy to change. I want to modify the way it's mounted and raise it up a lot, but currently the radiator is in the way.

Rear mounted cylinder would be the absolute tits but I don't see it happening with the way the suspension components are located.
 
I'm thinking about placing a radiator with fan in the back of the buggy for PS cooling.
We're looking at about 12ish extra feet of plumbing on the return line. I am thinking about staying with AN10 lines. I don't think this will be a problem, any input ?

The cooler would be the high point in the system. The ideal solution for packaging would use a dual pass cooler, with the fittings pointing down. So I'm worried about trapping air at the top of it. Would using a single pass cooler and a 180deg fitting at the top a better solution ? Less room for an air trap ?

If I was building a water cooling system with low pressure, I would add a bleeder at the top of the dual pass cooler. But when it comes to hydraulics, all my fittings always sip a little bit of fluid.This seems to indicate that they aren't 100% air tight so adding a bleeder would probably introduce air instead of solving the problem. I've also never seen a bleeder in any kind of hydraulic circuit.

Shitty paint drawing for clarification. Dual pass on the left (preferred), single pass on the right.

Untitled.jpg
 
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I would probly put a dual pass with the fittings on top or side. Main reason, if the cooler is the highest point, the fluid from the cooler will possibly drain back in the system.

A friend has a remote dual pass cooler on his buggy for oil and PS fluid, just like you have drawn, and he hasnt ever had any issues from it. But his resi cap is above the top of the cooler.
 
Drain back is no problem, unless you have an air leak.

 
Bebop said:
Drain back is no problem, unless you have an air leak.

Click to expand...

You mentioned feeling like your fittings werent 100% air tight. That would cause it to potentially drain back, as he showed in that video.

If that isnt the case, I would plumb the cooler, and bleed the system with the cooler at a lower position, to make sure there was no trapped air. As he showed in that video, it shouldnt really matter, and it will bleed out the air, just might take a little longer.

I would put the largest cooler you can fit, esp if you arent adding a fan to it. I dont know that single pass vs dual pass matters much, other than packaging and surface/contact area for the fluid/air.
 
There is always a little bit of damp dust around the fittings, like so

1658326138388.png


IDk if that's me overthinking it, but they always look like that.

As far as cooler size, I'm thinking 12x12 or something similar. Should be enough. I hope.
 
this is asking for trouble

have the fittings enter the side, feed in the top, return on the bottom.

1658349352949.png
 
Agreed, but I don't have the room for that.

I think I may end up flipping it and using 180deg fittings at the top.
 

CBR Standard Dual Fan Mini Oil Cooler With Dual 4" Fans AN -10 ORB Oil Cooler Inlet/Out - Kartek Off-Road

CBR Standard Dual Fan Mini Oil Cooler With Dual 4" Fans AN -10 ORB Oil Cooler Inlet/Out for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, Mint 400, Vegas to Reno, Silk Way Rally, Crandon...
www.kartek.com www.kartek.com

i bet this would be more than enough


this one is a dual pass with a single fan.

CBR Small Off-Road Dual Pass Oil Cooler With 7.5" Fan And AN -10 ORB Oil Cooler Inlet/Outlet - Kartek Off-Road

CBR Small Off-Road Dual Pass Oil Cooler With 7.5" Fan And AN -10 ORB Oil Cooler Inlet/Outlet for a sandrail, rock Crawler, KOH, Ultra4, truck, UTV, side-by-side, dune buggy, mini buggy, manx, king of the hammers, 4x4, or Jeep
www.kartek.com www.kartek.com
 
Sooooo, I have that exact second cooler you're showing.

I have only room to put the cooler vertically, the fittings are pointing up and down. That's why I asked this question.
 
I've never had any issues getting air out of any power steering system (ps, assist or full hydro) as well as no issues with air in other hydraulic things like equipment.

I'll give you that the cooler side is low pressure, but it should still work the air out. Once you get the initial air out, what's the concern?


As far as the steering cyl and tie rods. Have you not bent a cyl shaft? I have always heard they were easy to bend. Th other concern is nicking it with a rock and wasting the seals.
 
I’ve bent a shaft yeah. They’re easy to rebuild.

I’ve never had many issues to bleed a PS system either. But if I’m spending that much on parts, I’d like to make sure they’re installed in a way they aren’t trapping air.
 
Bebop said:
I’ve bent a shaft yeah. They’re easy to rebuild.

I’ve never had many issues to bleed a PS system either. But if I’m spending that much on parts, I’d like to make sure they’re installed in a way they aren’t trapping air.
Click to expand...

Not as bling, but You could crack the fittings while the system is running.

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see air getting trapped after initial bleeding.
 
Bebop said:
Cast welds on knuckles have been thoroughly tested this weekend. They hold great.

My dumbass should have put more pressure in the tires.

5EB45B7F-F245-4F1F-834C-2DC7D62EA036.jpeg

2DDD985C-1D14-40EC-885C-3B04D9C47CCF.jpeg


I have put a smaller pulley on the pump and it’s overdriven 50% now. Solved 90% of my low rpm concerns. Doesn’t even feel slow when it’s cold.

93976565-2E8B-42EF-B615-AFDEDD0EA635.jpeg


But now the steering is overheating. Howe heat-sink in the shit location isn’t cutting it when I’m giving her the beans.
Back to the drawing board.
Click to expand...
omg how hard did you hit that fucking wheel..... omg thats solid:beer::beer:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Not as bling, but You could crack the fittings while the system is running.

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see air getting trapped after initial bleeding.
Click to expand...
If the fittings are at the bottom and the air pocket is at the top, cracking the fittings won't do much.

chaplinfj60 said:
omg how hard did you hit that fucking wheel..... omg thats solid:beer::beer:
Click to expand...
Honestly it wasn't that bad. I hit a big rock around 35mph. Tire pressure would have been higher it wouldn't have been a problem. My fault for not adjusting it before sending it.
 
Bebop said:
If the fittings are at the bottom and the air pocket is at the top, cracking the fittings won't do much.


Honestly it wasn't that bad. I hit a big rock around 35mph. Tire pressure would have been higher it wouldn't have been a problem. My fault for not adjusting it before sending it.
Click to expand...
If you had CTIS then you would have been running proper air pressures...:lmao:
 
:flipoff2:



I feel like I'm a somewhat smart individual, but something happens when I start this thing. Pedal goes down and parts start to break :grinpimp:
 
Bebop said:
If the fittings are at the bottom and the air pocket is at the top, cracking the fittings won't do much.


Honestly it wasn't that bad. I hit a big rock around 35mph. Tire pressure would have been higher it wouldn't have been a problem. My fault for not adjusting it before sending it.
Click to expand...
35 mph, thats still going quick. lollol
 
Don't have the room, already said that.
 
I thought about it, just don't know where it would go.
No room under the seats, would have been convenient.
 
You mentioned cast welds on knuckles have been tested but I thought you recently switched to busted knuckle steering arms on Reid knuckles so what welding was tested?

Just curious because I keep bouncing between the busted knuckle setup and JH weld on parts. I was going JH the whole time until the recent talks the past few month on here.
 
Bebop said:
If the fittings are at the bottom and the air pocket is at the top, cracking the fittings won't do much.
Click to expand...

Well yes, but you mentioned putting them at the top also as an option.

You could also leave a little slack in the lines to allow you to unbolt it and flip it upside down while bleeding.

I'm also not convinced a few air bubbles in the top of the cooler would really matter?
 
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