French Tickler Buggy

[Bebop]

You're right.
Heavier tubing will be part of the rebuild and the new buggy (whenever either of these things happen is TBD).

 

[mobil1syn]

@chaplinfj60 the 2 pods suck ass. Can't wait to put a decent light bar back on.

china specials or legit brand?

 

[Bebop]

china specials or legit brand?

China specials.
Given what happened to the previous light bar I'm not ready to put a pair of Baja design squadron units on it. Maybe I should.

I've also used the lights on this buggy twice in a year.

Hard to justify the cost.

 

[94toytruck]

I always liked this rig. Low, stable and fast. Crawling is fun but I have just as much fun ripping around as being in the rocks.

 

[mobil1syn]

China specials.
Given what happened to the previous light bar I'm not ready to put a pair of Baja design squadron units on it. Maybe I should.

I've also used the lights on this buggy twice in a year.

Hard to justify the cost.

protect them better. i detest light bars just as much as the sxs they go on, but double light bars inside the cab similar to what you had would be a good way to go. that way when you get stupid they stay protected or you could do some squadrons under the stinger. make the pink some 20"ers and the blue a 10". youd be dialed Baja Designs - Kartek Off-Road

 

[Bebop]

I always liked this rig. Low, stable and fast. Crawling is fun but I have just as much fun ripping around as being in the rocks.

Thanks.
That's the premises of it.
I'm pretty damn happy with the result.

Been working on the v2.0 that will come soonish and fix the few details I don't like about it.

I'm also working on an improved design for a new chassis.

protect them better. i detest light bars just as much as the sxs they go on, but double light bars inside the cab similar to what you had would be a good way to go. that way when you get stupid they stay protected or you could do some squadrons under the stinger. make the pink some 20"ers and the blue a 10". youd be dialed Baja Designs - Kartek Off-Road

You're right. I tried to mock up some lopro 20" exactly there but they take up some valuable field of vision when I'm going up hill.
The cost of 3 BD light bars is about the amount I would spend in the new cooling setup for trans and steering so I'll probably do that first.

 

[Bebop]

Oh yeah, I found a broken exhaust gasket right before the wide band. Explains some erratic readings and the rare stumbles the engine was having (see the AOP ride post).

I fixed it before going to Harlan and never had a lick of trouble.

Soooo I had to test the engine on the race hills. Saved that one but it was close.



Made up the one next to it. Less of a turn in the middle of it. Easier to line up.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

You're right.
Heavier tubing will be part of the rebuild and the new buggy (whenever either of these things happen is TBD).

Or look at chromo. It's expensive, but so is heavy wall Dom and so is the time to build a buggy.

 

[Bebop]

Or look at chromo. It's expensive, but so is heavy wall Dom and so is the time to build a buggy.

The idea is there obviously, but I lack experience with it.

Heard crazy stuff about it cracking in long term use etc.

HT chromo sounds even better. But no idea what Hrc numbers to shoot for, what process steps etc.

I also don't know what is acceptable and considered ok when it comes to chromoly. Replace a .250 wall DOM tube by a .120 4130 ? Even if it holds up in terms of strength, what about metal fatigue ?

I'd love to replace my heavy ass trailing arms by some HT chromo ones, but when I know I bent some 2.5x.250 wall DOM slugged with AL, what thickness of chromo tube should I go with ?



Not saying cost is no object, but redoing bent DOM isn't cheap either nor fun. I'd rather be out beating on my rig vs in the shop.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

The idea is there obviously, but I lack experience with it.

Heard crazy stuff about it cracking in long term use etc.

HT chromo sounds even better. But no idea what Hrc numbers to shoot for, what process steps etc.

I also don't know what is acceptable and considered ok when it comes to chromoly. Replace a .250 wall DOM tube by a .120 4130 ? Even if it holds up in terms of strength, what about metal fatigue ?

I'd love to replace my heavy ass trailing arms by some HT chromo ones, but when I know I bent some 2.5x.250 wall DOM slugged with AL, what thickness of chromo tube should I go with ?



Not saying cost is no object, but redoing bent DOM isn't cheap either nor fun. I'd rather be out beating on my rig vs in the shop.

My only personal experience is building 1 cage out of it.

The cracking is more from guys trying to replace 120 wall with 065 or similar.

I don't know if 120 wall Dom will compare to 250 mild. But I can say 1.5x120 wall chromo felt similar to 1.75x188 mild in my bender.

I'd think 2x120 chromo would be pretty damn tough for a cage. Underneath, I'd go heavier, or get creative with sleeves or laminating.

For the links I'd think 2.5x250 HT chromo would be bulletproof.

 

[mobil1syn]

chassis subframe should be .120 4130 sleeved with AL. all the miller cars are like that and see far more abuse than yours. in a subframe you can cut down on the spans so bending it not an issue and the AL keeps the tube from collapsing/denting.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I get that slugging the 120 wall with aluminum, but I'm wondering if the link application isn't as good? The 250 wall isn't really going to dent. The aluminum is sting because it can flex and come back, the big dom is rigid. Obviously it adds strength, but I'm wondering if the cost wieght penalty isn't worth it. Probably better to just go to 3/8 wall, which would probably be lighter, cheaper and maybe stronger?

 

[chaplinfj60]

if you could find a HDD company out your way you might be able to look over these steel rods. i have put these tubes some abuse but nothing compared to what your doing but the numbers are legit i would not use this for cage or anything just something to bash against while sleeved inside a slider tube or something. maybe inside training arms. outside the box thinking you know.

Drill pipes for Vermeer horizontal directional drills are made to S135 industry standard specifications.

• Tensile Strength 145,000 PSI. Tensile strength for Vermeer® drill pipes is the maximum stress the material will sustain before fracture.
  
• Yield Strength 135,000 PSI. Vermeer® drill pipes yield strength is the stress corresponding to a specified permanent (plastic) deformation which is the point at which the material yields and won’t spring back.

 

[Bebop]

chassis subframe should be .120 4130 sleeved with AL. all the miller cars are like that and see far more abuse than yours. in a subframe you can cut down on the spans so bending it not an issue and the AL keeps the tube from collapsing/denting.

Duly noted.
What thickness would you use for trailing arms ? HT .120 too ? Can you slug something that goes to HT ?

I get that slugging the 120 wall with aluminum, but I'm wondering if the link application isn't as good? The 250 wall isn't really going to dent. The aluminum is sting because it can flex and come back, the big dom is rigid. Obviously it adds strength, but I'm wondering if the cost wieght penalty isn't worth it. Probably better to just go to 3/8 wall, which would probably be lighter, cheaper and maybe stronger?

I'm in the same boat. Except I'm pretty sure that 3/8 DOM isn't the answer.

if you could find a HDD company out your way you might be able to look over these steel rods. i have put these tubes some abuse but nothing compared to what your doing but the numbers are legit i would not use this for cage or anything just something to bash against while sleeved inside a slider tube or something. maybe inside training arms. outside the box thinking you know.

Drill pipes for Vermeer horizontal directional drills are made to S135 industry standard specifications.

• Tensile Strength 145,000 PSI. Tensile strength for Vermeer® drill pipes is the maximum stress the material will sustain before fracture.
• Yield Strength 135,000 PSI. Vermeer® drill pipes yield strength is the stress corresponding to a specified permanent (plastic) deformation which is the point at which the material yields and won’t spring back.

Not a bad idea, and I know someone who works at Vermeer. But I'm worried about weight. the whole point of going 4130 is to cut down on it. Otherwise I make everything out of .250 DOM and call it.

 

[mobil1syn]

What thickness would you use for trailing arms ? HT .120 too ? Can you slug something that goes to HT ?

where are yours bending?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Duly noted.
What thickness would you use for trailing arms ? HT .120 too ? Can you slug something that goes to HT ?

Fuck no, you still need beef in those. I personally like the goatbilt trailing arms, not sure if they're available in chromo though.

I'm in the same boat. Except I'm pretty sure that 3/8 DOM isn't the answer.

I agree. My point is that 2" solid aluminum still wieghs a decent amount. So given the option again, I'd say 3/8s would be better.

The nice thing about the links is they're easy to get heat treated. I was talking to a guy who runs a Toyota cab buggy in u4, he said he's ran the same 2x250 ht chromo links for years, I think 3 or 4 Koh's with the same links.

 

[Bebop]

where are yours bending?

That was before I trussed them.
2.5x.250 DOM with a 2" AL slug inside.

After trussing they never bent :

But they weight an insane amount.
Just trying to see what I can do to lighten them and keep them strong.

 

[Bebop]

Fuck no, you still need beef in those. I personally like the goatbilt trailing arms, not sure if they're available in chromo though.

I'm not a fan.
Randy's (Bomber fab) links is what I'm looking at.

The nice thing about the links is they're easy to get heat treated. I was talking to a guy who runs a Toyota cab buggy in u4, he said he's ran the same 2x250 ht chromo links for years, I think 3 or 4 Koh's with the same links.

Maybe that's what I need.

 

[mobil1syn]

That was before I trussed them.
2.5x.250 DOM with a 2" AL slug inside.

After trussing they never bent :

But they weight an insane amount.
Just trying to see what I can do to lighten them and keep them strong.

science says the amount of material as far away from the centerline is what matters. how much you looking to reduce the weight?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I'm not a fan.
Randy's (Bomber fab) links is what I'm looking at.



Maybe that's what I need.

Can't find them

You like running a straight link with tabs on top and wobble stops?

I liked the fact that the goat built arms run the shock bolt just below center, but don't loose 2"+ ground clearance like the bent tube ones.

They are not light.

 

[Bebop]

science says the amount of material as far away from the centerline is what matters. how much you looking to reduce the weight?

As much as possible.
As little as needed.

You like running a straight link with tabs on top and wobble stops?

Yes, I bang them enough as is.

I liked the fact that the goat built arms run the shock bolt just below center, but don't loose 2"+ ground clearance like the bent tube ones.

They are not light.

I'm trying to go lighter. If I stay with heavy stuff, my current ones give me plenty of satisfaction.

 

[mobil1syn]

As much as possible.
As little as needed.

i think a new version of your current setup without the AL slug should do the trick. IIRC there were guys on the other side sliting down the middle of the tube for a vertical rub to tie the top to the bottom.

 

[Bebop]

i think a new version of your current setup without the AL slug should do the trick. IIRC there were guys on the other side sliting down the middle of the tube for a vertical rub to tie the top to the bottom

I like the idea a lot.
Would you build everything out of 4130 then send it to HT ?
I'm assuming yes just wanted to confirm.

Any idea on how much distortion / movement there is during the HT process ? I'm trying to see what I need to account for during the build.
I know my current ones moved quite a bit during welding alone.

Thanks

 

[ridered3]

Got anything new to update with the buggy?

 

[Bebop]

Not really, I haven't even started it since driving it in the shop after the ride at Harlan in October... Been busy on other people's rigs.

But, I'll have to get cranking on the Tickler if I want it OP for the season. Chassis needs some reinforcement and the cooling system is getting an upgrade in planning of the blower install which will happen... one day...

Hopefully I can have it ready for April ish. Prob not before.

Got a few more tweaks to add to the shocks too. I'll head down to BKOR for that.

 

[ridered3]

Not really, I haven't even started it since driving it in the shop after the ride at Harlan in October... Been busy on other people's rigs.

But, I'll have to get cranking on the Tickler if I want it OP for the season. Chassis needs some reinforcement and the cooling system is getting an upgrade in planning of the blower install which will happen... one day...

Hopefully I can have it ready for April ish. Prob not before.

Got a few more tweaks to add to the shocks too. I'll head down to BKOR for that.

Good deal all around. Figured your thread needed an update as opposed to just texting you.

 

[Bebop]

Bumping this back up. I'm not dead. Rig hasn't moved since Harlan 6 + months ago. Sad.

Been slinging wires on other people’s rigs but I picked up a few more pieces for the steering upgrade. RadialDynamics CB-X and Howe TT cooler. It needs to be done by end of May, I got a ride to attend I can't miss.

Cooling upgrade will happen at some point. I got that mostly figured out. I hope.

 

[Bebop]

Replace my P-Pump that died last ride with a new RD steering system (CB-X pump, filter and fancy resi). Moved the pump to pass side, way higher than previous setup. Everything is located the way it is in order for maintenance to be easy.

I also chopped the steps that were bent to fuck and replaced them with a 4ft piece of solid rod to help distributing the impacts and hopefully let it slide better on the rocks. I also added a .188 wall kicker going to belly.

Went to Stony Lonesome for testing last weekend. Rode with Jake Burkey and the BK crew.
Didn't have to turn a wrench once. This rig impressed all day and made everything his biotch.
RD setup delivers ! (I'll write a more detailed report about that in the future). My face had a shit eating grin all the way back home.

Got it done before end of May as I wanted. I'm ready for the ride I can't miss, next weekend at AOP. Friends graduation !

Next mods will be a few tubing changes, adding some lights for a night ride and a chase bar, and eventually I'll replace the rear axle that's on its last legs. After careful consideration, I will not be going rear steer. I've pondered biting the bullet and building a rear Fab10 axle with gearworks center-section, but can't justify the added cost. 14 bolts are so damn cheap and readily available, I'll go this route again.







Also, I fucking love America !

 

[Bebop]

Went to AOP yesterday for a ride and celebrating the Graduation of my friend Abigail.

We had a blast and ran some hard shit.

Only got a single pic all day.

Area51

Then right before loading up I decided today was the day to try Riot Hill. Got some pointers from Roger and was able to make it out the top.



Then, after spanking the hill, feeling like I knew WTF I was doing, decided I was a racecar driver. Then proceeded to Ultra4 my way into a tree. The ol’ “click third and eat shit” like Burkey put it !

Managed to break both high steer arms at the same time. SMH.

I also think I hurt the orbital in the process.

Good thing, the knuckles are completely fine and I was able to extract the bolts easily.

Time to reassess the situation and see what I will do about this. Multiple options are available, I just haven’t decided which avenue I’ll take.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Get rid of those socket head cap screws and get some 12 Points. They were not tight enough. It looks like the arms have been moving for awhile and the break on the non broken side is old and rusted unless that is just how corrosive the soil is from the time of break to time of picture.