French Tickler Buggy

[Slander]

Whatever you put on there, make sure it's made out of something that can/will rust

I would be worried about heating up the fuel tank, and when it gets low dealing with vapor lock

 

[greenlion]

Suggestion to put the trans cooler in front of the radiator too. Let the big fan do the work and no sticks coming up through.
My aluminum fuel cell was very very close to my rear radiator fans. I covered the front with that gold heat reflective tape and never had any fuel boiling issues (regulated return system, no cooler). Looks like you have room for a heat shield though.

 

[chaplinfj60]

is it possible to do all what you said and put fuel tank in front of rad.

 

[Bebop]

Whatever you put on there, make sure it's made out of something that can/will rust

I would be worried about heating up the fuel tank, and when it gets low dealing with vapor lock

I have a lot of .090 AL sheet metal so it'll probably be that. No rust for you, sorry. I was going to use this as an opportunity to learn about bead rolling and try to make something look cool.

There will be a separation / duct between the rads and the cell. It'll force the air down under the car.

Something like that :

Suggestion to put the trans cooler in front of the radiator too. Let the big fan do the work and no sticks coming up through.
My aluminum fuel cell was very very close to my rear radiator fans. I covered the front with that gold heat reflective tape and never had any fuel boiling issues (regulated return system, no cooler). Looks like you have room for a heat shield though.

I thought about the trans cooler in front too. It's how I have it setup currently.
I'm worried about having the rad too crowded and not giving me the option to add a heat exchanger for the blower (don't think that's not happening).
See above for heat shield but I'm curious about your heat reflective tape. Do you have a link ? Thanks

is it possible to do all what you said and put fuel tank in front of rad.

I tried that a long time ago since the tank was already all the way forward. The airflow would be very compromised and it would kill all storage room. I need to go dig into old pics but I elected against it.

I just cut everything up. I'm committed now.

 

[chaplinfj60]

There will be a separation / duct between the rads and the cell. It'll force the air down under the car.

Something like that :

that would do it. lots of flow going down

looking again moving fuel tank big pain in ass

 

[Bebop]

looking again moving fuel tank big pain in ass

Edited my post above for clarifying fuel cell location

 

[Wisconsinite]

Reflect-A-GOLD™ Heat Reflective Roll - 24" x 150'

Reflect-A-GOLD is an adhesive heat shield made for use in extreme temperature swing environments, perfect for firewalls, fuel cells, engine covers, under hoods, engine compartment and other area that needs protection from heat.

www.designengineering.com

 

[RustyC]

Post #360, I like side panel option 1 behind the shocks, add perforations for flare. On the outside it will get hammered by rock rash.

Have you considered covering the top of the fuel cell as well with a simple hole for the filler neck to pass through?
On that buggy <--- I made a functional scoop to allow air to the engine air filter. It worked well.
Get creative on the top panel and bead roll + perforated alum to draw air in from the top as well. A radius in the panel between the radiator and cell would really smooth out the airflow.

 

[Bebop]

Post #360, I like side panel option 1 behind the shocks, add perforations for flare. On the outside it will get hammered by rock rash.

Oh yeah, it won't be outside.

Have you considered covering the top of the fuel cell as well with a simple hole for the filler neck to pass through?

Yes, but the fuel cell sticks out a few inches past the tube, killing this idea. Would have made it a lot cleaner.
I could make a custom cell to lower it but I'd loose capacity and it would be another thing on the list of stuff to do.

On that buggy <--- I made a functional scoop to allow air to the engine air filter. It worked well.
Get creative on the top panel and bead roll + perforated alum to draw air in from the top as well. A radius in the panel between the radiator and cell would really smooth out the airflow.

My thinking was to completely enclose the top in order to avoid projections of hot water in case there is a hose blowing up or some rad cap release type of situation. IDK if I like an open top. Airflow from the front should be enough I think.
Adding a radius to the air duct should be a lot better but IDK if I can do it with the tools I have.

 

[Ghetto Fab.]

Even a few bends to sorta approximate a radius would help.

Could make a complete top with sides that are bent down all along the perimeter to cover the rad and fuel cell.

 

[Bebop]

Even a few bends to sorta approximate a radius would help.

Yep, that's what I might do.

Could make a complete top with sides that are bent down all along the perimeter to cover the rad and fuel cell.

I'm not Morgan Clarke. Flat panels is probably where my skill set stops lol

And again, the fuel cell sticks up past the tubes. Putting a cover over it would look like shit.

 

[Bebop]

I also looked into a different rad location. Flat, like the Bomber trail cars.
I like it too but that makes maintenance and plumbing a pain and it requires a custom cell.

 

[RustyC]

Adding a radius to the air duct should be a lot better but IDK if I can do it with the tools I have.

Sure you do. LOL use a fat sharpie to draw lines in the area to be bent. Heat the panel slowly with a small map / propane torch until the black sharpie disappears. This will soften / anneal the alum so it bends easier. Then just bend the panel around a welding gas bottle or similar radius.
Sip wine and look like a boss!

 

[chaplinfj60]

I also looked into a different rad location. Flat, like the Bomber trail cars.
I like it too but that makes maintenance and plumbing a pain and it requires a custom cell.

that is a pain i think too...

 

[csutton7]

Small hi-jack here about the stock water pump and stock radiator in the back, when I did it my temps were 212* at idle and if I rev'd it up to like 1200rpms then it would drop to the low 200*s and I think at 1500rpms it would be 195-198* (if I remember correctly), so I ended up putting the radiator(smaller to fit the willys truck) up front and now I run about 210* at idle. Now my hoses were EPDM(no easy way to run coolant exhaust pipe in Willys with a LS) and I wonder if I had a lot of friction loss. Anyway just my experience and now I'm leaning to putting it back in the rear and using a bosch electric water pump(I think that's what it is I saw a guy use-I need to go find that info). Anyway that's why I'm curious about how it works for you when you get it all up and going.

Chaplinfj60--tell us more about your setup or experience with a rear mounted radiatior.

 

[chaplinfj60]

mine is very very basic, matter fact bebop helped me alot with the little things.
5.3 with zero mods, 26x19 griff RAD, ford taurus fan with volvo fan controller relay. damn thing runs 90 percent of the time on low in the 200 range and high for a few minutes at a time when you turn it back on after it shuts down.
i used stainless steel tubing to run to the back. and it went through the PASS side floor board by your feet but i put layers of wrap and heat shielding on it and no one ever says their feet get hot. i ask and they so no.

 

[Bebop]

Small hi-jack here about the stock water pump and stock radiator in the back, when I did it my temps were 212* at idle and if I rev'd it up to like 1200rpms then it would drop to the low 200*s and I think at 1500rpms it would be 195-198* (if I remember correctly), so I ended up putting the radiator(smaller to fit the willys truck) up front and now I run about 210* at idle. Now my hoses were EPDM(no easy way to run coolant exhaust pipe in Willys with a LS) and I wonder if I had a lot of friction loss. Anyway just my experience and now I'm leaning to putting it back in the rear and using a bosch electric water pump(I think that's what it is I saw a guy use-I need to go find that info). Anyway that's why I'm curious about how it works for you when you get it all up and going.

Chaplinfj60--tell us more about your setup or experience with a rear mounted radiatior.

If you have to have an electric water pump, delete the factory and use a Davies Craig EWP150.

I promise you that your stock water pump is not the problem. I have friends running 1000hp LS engines with rear mounted radiators and the factory water pump keeps up no problem.

Also 212 is completely acceptable temperature for an LS. Factory fans kick on at 225/230.

Sure you do. LOL use a fat sharpie to draw lines in the area to be bent. Heat the panel slowly with a small map / propane torch until the black sharpie disappears. This will soften / anneal the alum so it bends easier. Then just bend the panel around a welding gas bottle or similar radius.
Sip wine and look like a boss!

I'm sure I have the wine part down. But I'll give it a shot when the time comes !

 

[csutton7]

BeBop--thanks. So what's considered too hot or you need to pull over and let her cool down?

 

[Bebop]

Over 225 I pull timing.
Over 235 I stop but that's conservative. In a race I wouldn't stop until I saw 250.

 

[mobil1syn]

move the cell to the very back, carry no spares, radiator flat

 

[Bebop]

move the cell to the very back, carry no spares, radiator flat

I thought about that too. Gonna have to make sure there is no contact with the tire here. Also gonna need to move some tubes around.

Then add pre-runner style coolers.

Sad part is that you're probably right.
Fuck, you're not helping

 

[Wfoyota]

Your first ideas are best imo. Simple, effective, easy to work on. Now put the bitch together and lets go ride.

 

[94toytruck]

My fuel cell is closer than yours to the radiator and hasn't been a a issue. I have a small plate with a few holes between the rad and fan to deflect some air and my upper hose is mounted to it. I have a 16g Jaz cell though in a metal case that sits lower though too.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Took some time yesterday to do some brainstorming.

I'm "pretty sure" I figured out how to put the booster in place of the hydroboost. It's gonna require some fancy CNC parts though.

And I'm also "pretty sure" that I know how to fit the big steering components now.

Tuesday we start cutting some shit.

Exciting stuff.





HYDRODYNAMIC and others who might know. I want to build my own cooler for the PS on the return line. What peak pressure should I expect in that circuit ? What pressure to leak test the finished radiator at ? 300 PSI ?

300PSI is pretty standard for bar and plate coolers.
Actual pressure depends on where you have the filter and what type it is. Plugged filters can blow the seal or case if it doesn’t have a bypass.
Cooler shouldn’t create more than 25 psi alone.

 

[mobil1syn]

Sad part is that you're probably right.
Fuck, you're not helping

ill send ya a flat bill hat and some black socks so you can represent properly.

My fuel cell is closer than yours to the radiator and hasn't been a a issue. I have a small plate with a few holes between the rad and fan to deflect some air and my upper hose is mounted to it. I have a 16g Jaz cell though in a metal case that sits lower though too.

it appears his steering system has a high cooling demand than your engine.

 

[Bebop]

300PSI is pretty standard for bar and plate coolers.
Actual pressure depends on where you have the filter and what type it is. Plugged filters can blow the seal or case if it doesn’t have a bypass.
Cooler shouldn’t create more than 25 psi alone.

It does have a filter. Located pre-cooler.
Said filter doesn’t have a bypass that I know of.
I’m just wondering what pressure you’d leak test the cooler at after building it (IE welding tanks to a core).

ill send ya a flat bill hat and some black socks so you can represent properly.

Funny enough, I have some. I just don’t wear them ‘round here ‘cause people make fun of me

it appears his steering system has a high cooling demand than your engine.

It’s really hard to get actual feedback on what works and what doesn’t in a high perf steering application. Lots of setups work good for trail riding around but when you start holding the engine above 4000 for at least 30 seconds, everything falls apart.

Seems like some people need a big ass CBR rad with billet tanks for steering and some people can get by with a single Howe heatsink (Erik Miller) I’ve also seen a TT team use a Fox ECS2 as a PS cooler. I like that.

I’m already worried about having to add 20ft of hose to the system in order to have the cooler in the rear. Then just not to worry more, I’d error out on the side of caution and buy a big ass cooler.

I’m also worried about mounting the cooler higher than the resi. I know it shouldn’t matter (seen the RD video and understand the logic) but I’m still worried about it.

 

[ridered3]

Another option is to put it back together as it was and enjoy it but I know that doesn’t make good content here or a content Frenchy that likes to upgrade 😀

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Run a dedicated fan for the steering cooler. Keep the lines short as possible.
A 7.5” Spal will be more than enough. If you want to PWM it get a 20amp SSR with a heat sink and plug in to your ECM.
300PSI test on the cooler, but if the filter is before it, then the cooler shouldn’t see anything above 50PSI

 

[Bebop]

Another option is to put it back together as it was and enjoy it but I know that doesn’t make good content here or a content Frenchy that likes to upgrade 😀

yeah, you know me :)

Run a dedicated fan for the steering cooler. Keep the lines short as possible.

The lines will have to be long as shit cause that's the only location I have available.
Or I could put it on the dash, trust me I thought about it.

A 7.5” Spal will be more than enough. If you want to PWM it get a 20amp SSR with a heat sink and plug in to your ECM.

I have the Fusion SSR I'm using to PWM my current brushed fans.
Question is, what target temp shoud I aim for ?

300PSI test on the cooler, but if the filter is before it, then the cooler shouldn’t see anything above 50PSI

10-4 good to know and thank you

 

[chaplinfj60]

i missed it,
but tossing this out there. since the engine rad is out back, why not put your power steering coolers up front or did that space get used up?