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French Tickler Buggy

Bebop said:
Yep.

You have to understand the shear size of the components I'm trying to install. Feed hose for the pump is AN-16. All return lines are AN-12. The resi is 4" OD x 11" tall. 250cc orbital. Everything is huge.

I currently am very very tight on every steering component and I'm using "normal" sized parts (CBR pump, AN-8/AN-10 hoses etc).
There is no room.
Click to expand...

-10 pressure hoses alone will take up a lot of room :laughing:

I have heard good things about Eboosters, so I'm curious what you'll think of it compared to hydroboost.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I have heard good things about Eboosters, so I'm curious what you'll think of it compared to hydroboost.
Click to expand...
Same.
It's sitting in a box collecting dust at the moment though
 
AN-8 or 1/2"JIC

Pressure side from pump to orbital is also AN-8.

No AN-10 pressure, YotaAtieToo got confused.
 
That makes more sense. I was thinking a AN-6 at the cylinder and a AN-10 feed. 😲
 
RustyC said:
That makes more sense. I was thinking a AN-6 at the cylinder and a AN-10 feed. 😲
Click to expand...

AN-16 feed
AN-8 pressure for all lines
AN-12 return

AN-12 is the standard for feed on most "big" pumps. Imagine routing this as a return.
 
Bebop said:
AN-16 feed
AN-8 pressure for all lines
AN-12 return

AN-12 is the standard for feed on most "big" pumps. Imagine routing this as a return.
Click to expand...
Don’t be afraid to drill out the ID of the fittings. All of my -12 return fittings are ported since they don’t see high pressure.
 
mobil1syn said:
give lots of money to swagelock and do as much out of stainless hardline as possible
Click to expand...
I have the bender and flaring tools for hard lines. I’ll do as much as possible with it for sure.

HYDRODYNAMIC said:
You have plenty of room for an iBooster mounted in reverse.
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I have the booster in hand and I don’t think so.
Keep in mind the resi needs to go somewhere too.

HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Don’t be afraid to drill out the ID of the fittings. All of my -12 return fittings are ported since they don’t see high pressure.
Click to expand...
Yes for sure.
The stupid part is that the inlet fitting on the TT pump is an ORB-10. Eric recommended drilling out to 9/16 but when you see how big of a restriction on a 1" ID line this is, I’m not a fan. I thought about taking the pump apart and welding a 1" JIC fitting directly to the body but don’t know if I want to get there.

D8BAA1C9-DE24-4240-A180-762499B316C5.jpeg


I’m also trying to minimize the number of fittings, the angle of them and the various adapters through the circuit.

As far as cooling, I might copy your “below the seat” setup although I’m still not totally sold by it. I haven’t figured out the routing of the lines. Wether it’s upfront or in the rear, I don’t know how to keep the plumbing looking tight and clean.
 
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I know it is a necessary evil, but what is HP rating on that pump? If you don't have one directly listed, what is the GPM and PSI estimated for various rates? Hydraulic Horsepower can be backwards calculated from those measured values if needed.
 
11gpm / 1650psi

HP consumption is completely irrelevant for me.
 
HHP = Q * P / 1714 with Q as flow rate in GPM and P as pressure in PSI.

So, not much really in the grand scheme of things, especially for a relatively spicy motor not a 100 HP daily driver. Just over 10 HP. I was expecting it to be at a much higher pressure, but even at 3000 psi it wouldn't be that crazy of a number.
 
Bebop said:
Yes for sure.
The stupid part is that the inlet fitting on the TT pump is an ORB-10. Eric recommended drilling out to 9/16 but when you see how big of a restriction on a 1" ID line this is, I’m not a fan. I thought about taking the pump apart and welding a 1" JIC fitting directly to the body but don’t know if I want to get there.

D8BAA1C9-DE24-4240-A180-762499B316C5.jpeg


I’m also trying to minimize the number of fittings, the angle of them and the various adapters through the circuit.

As far as cooling, I might copy your “below the seat” setup although I’m still not totally sold by it. I haven’t figured out the routing of the lines. Wether it’s upfront or in the rear, I don’t know how to keep the plumbing looking tight and clean.
Click to expand...
I just drilled a -12MJIC to -10ORB 90° return fitting on my reservoir to .625” ID, still has plenty of meat probably 4X as much as the cooler which is rated to 300PSI.
That TT pump might have passageways smaller than .625”, no reason to weld on a bigger fitting just to bottleneck it back down an inch later inside the pump.
 
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Squeaky Clean said:
HHP = Q * P / 1714 with Q as flow rate in GPM and P as pressure in PSI.

So, not much really in the grand scheme of things, especially for a relatively spicy motor not a 100 HP daily driver. Just over 10 HP. I was expecting it to be at a much higher pressure, but even at 3000 psi it wouldn't be that crazy of a number.
Click to expand...
It's a "basic" TT pump. If I were to go to a billet RDX, we could bump the pressure to 2000psi, but I got a good deal on the "basic" pump so I'm going to start with that.

Ted said:
only frenchy wert a dam!
Click to expand...
knowdat'
fangers!

HYDRODYNAMIC said:
I just drilled a -12MJIC to -10ORB 90° return fitting on my reservoir to .625” ID, still has plenty of meat probably 4X as much as the cooler which is rated to 300PSI.
That TT pump might have passageways smaller than .625”, no reason to weld on a bigger fitting just to bottleneck it back down an inch later inside the pump.
Click to expand...
I hear you.
Jeff Howe suggested drilling at .625" and Eric suggested against as he's seen breaks in race applications with the heavy AN-16 hose.

SLOWPOKE693 said:
Hurry up and finish this thing so I can go for a ride!!
Click to expand...
I don't think it's happening anytime soon :/
As a penciled-in goal, it would be nice to have it ready for October 2024, so I can test drive it a couple of times then bring it to KOH 2025.
 
Took some time yesterday to do some brainstorming.

I'm "pretty sure" I figured out how to put the booster in place of the hydroboost. It's gonna require some fancy CNC parts though.

And I'm also "pretty sure" that I know how to fit the big steering components now.

Tuesday we start cutting some shit.

Exciting stuff.





HYDRODYNAMIC and others who might know. I want to build my own cooler for the PS on the return line. What peak pressure should I expect in that circuit ? What pressure to leak test the finished radiator at ? 300 PSI ?
 
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Wfoyota said:
You spelled torch and cardboard wrong :grinpimp:
Click to expand...
I may ask the peanut gallery for some redneck advice when I'm at this point in the process. CNC is cool but expensive and I'm not against torch and cardboard if I can make it work.
 
Bebop said:
Took some time yesterday to do some brainstorming.

I'm "pretty sure" I figured out how to put the booster in place of the hydroboost. It's gonna require some fancy CNC parts though.

And I'm also "pretty sure" that I know how to fit the big steering components now.

Tuesday we start cutting some shit.

Exciting stuff.





HYDRODYNAMIC and others who might know. I want to build my own cooler for the PS on the return line. What peak pressure should I expect in that circuit ? What pressure to leak test the finished radiator at ? 300 PSI ?
Click to expand...
Glad to read that the buggy is getting some love again.
 
Tacos de Birria and Buggy Time Tuesday !!!!

F68E1E59-7345-4F14-B7C9-81BEA3671D15.jpeg


Only had a few hours for me but I cut the old fuel cell mounts. Then loosely placed the radiator and components in their new place.

New radiator is a square unit. 25.5 x 25.5. Core dimensions are bigger than a regular 31x19 and it will have a giant 18" 850W Spal brushless fan, so I know I'll be good on cooling capacity.

After I cut the battery mount, it'll be sunk down some more. But the bracket was convenient to test fit stuff and take pics.

9920BE04-72B7-4E09-883E-8FF4558D45F8.jpeg


In the back behind the cell I'll put a Swag Action packer to hold the Rubbermaid tote that is visible here.

61690860-0805-49E2-8567-19BC3495AD43.jpeg


F49D1049-5BB5-4F5A-B55A-F223BAF9090B.jpeg


The next steps are going to be :
  • cut the battery mounts
  • decide what to do for PS and trans cooling
  • decide where the battery is going to be located
 
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I'm interested in how the radiator works in the rear. I don't recall what water pump you were using though and that's certainly part of the equation.

Double thumbs up on the tacos!!
 
csutton7 said:
I'm interested in how the radiator works in the rear. I don't recall what water pump you were using though and that's certainly part of the equation.
Click to expand...
Gonna be a regular OEM LS water pump. They work just fine for thousands of people.
 
Ideas :

- I want to be on the safe side when it comes to burns and potential cooling issues. Thinking about paneling the top with solid AL. Just to make sure there is no water spraying up / on the occupants in case of issue

top panel.JPG


- Trans cooler flat and low down (in orange). And expansion tank (in blue).

trans cooler 1.JPG


- Front panel is going to be mesh and have the PS cooler (yellow) in front of the rad in order to enjoy the airflow from the fan.

front panel and PS cooler.JPG


- Side panels, IDK if I'm going for mesh or solid. I think that mesh is better for cooling but solid better for looks and safety. I couldn't draw in paint around the shocks but the panels will be behind.

Option 1

side panels.JPG


Option 2

side panels solid.jpg


Thoughts / Feedback ?
 
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