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E4OD transmission swap

VSS Pigtail:

Dorman 645-213 Vehicle Speed Sensor Pigtail Amazon.com



Bronco Graveyard lists all the different length speedo cables, and they have the speed sensor and the pigtail as well if you want to get all your parts in one place.
 

e4odsolenoidcharts.jpg


neat picture
 
Description: On gasoline engines, the profile ignition pickup sensor sends a signal to the powertrain control module indicating the engine rpm and the crankshaft position.
Symptoms: Engine will stall or miss.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 211, P0340, P0341, P0344.

this is the one that I need to add for RPM/tach signal to the PCM. answers many questions i'd had.

wire diagram has the following from ignition system to PCM:
Position 4, Ignition Diagnostic Module
Position 16, Ignition Ground
Position 36, Spark Output Signal
Position 56, Profile Ignition Pickup

and according to the diagnostic trouble code link, the Profile Ignition Pickup is the only signal that matters for the transmission shifting, the rest just deal with ignition timing.

maybe see what happens without it, maybe tie in the green wire/tach output to that spot, haven't thought about it enough yet.


EDIT:
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WillyB
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The PIP is the output signal of the Hall-Effect device in your distributor. The controller uses if to determine which cylinder is firing, engine RPM and to time when the next spark should happen. (It sets the advance for the next cylinder.) When that time comes, the controller will output the SPOUT pulse, which the ignition module uses to trigger the coil.

The ignition module returns an IDM signal (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) that the controller compares to the SPOUT, and, if different, concludes that there is a problem with the ignition module. The IDM is tied to the same pin as the coil and tachometer are.

If the ignition module does not receive a SPOUT command, it will fire the coil on the next PIP pulse. Since the distributor is set for a 10 degree advance, the timing will be set at a constant 10 degrees.

alright, that clears that up. it wants the signal from the distributor and not the tach output. for the 78 with duraspark 2, purple wire to dist is + and orange is - for the hall effect sensor, so I'd wager sending the Orange wire to PCM slot 56 would be most correct
 
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GTFOH. The E4OD was around 83?
not a chance, 1989 according to all the Ford stuff that I can find :laughing:

I think the guy that uploaded the document to SuperMotors also owns an '83 and was just adding this to his files and folders. Kind of like doing a search for the "resources" or "media" tabs here.

If the supermotors site implodes, it'll be worse for the DIY automotive internet than photobucket collapsing :laughing:
 
not a chance, 1989 according to all the Ford stuff that I can find :laughing:

I think the guy that uploaded the document to SuperMotors also owns an '83 and was just adding this to his files and folders. Kind of like doing a search for the "resources" or "media" tabs here.

If the supermotors site implodes, it'll be worse for the DIY automotive internet than photobucket collapsing :laughing:
That’s what my “common” knowledge of ford says. 89 first actual year. But every once in a while I learn something new or some obscure model with experimental stuff in an earlier year. Thought you had one for a second and there’s other stuff in that picture that I was sure wasn’t in an 83 model. Looking closer, the pic is a brick nose anyway
 

e4odsolenoidcharts.jpg


neat picture
C-6 automatic transmission control system locater, shift arm and vacuum tube. (For full manual valve body, omit vacuum tube)
 
C-6 automatic transmission control system locater, shift arm and vacuum tube. (For full manual valve body, omit vacuum tube)
Having the kick down connected helps too, though I've found I greatly prefer low line pressure to high if it's gotta be disconnected
 
alright, well this morning did some more digging into reptillikus post above about setting up a PSOM. I think i'll be alright trying to find a 1989-1991 ECM, however, if i manage to find somebody parting out a 92-96 in their yard and can get everything for ~$100, it'd be worth messing with.



adding a youtube video on the reset procedure, with the important note that the 8.8 tone ring uses 108 tooth to go along with the 10.25 using 120 tooth. Value range is 100-999. [represents a 1.00 to 9.99 math ratio acceptable result for tire rev per mile x tone ring divided by 8000]

Looks like the VSS relocation kit uses ~30 slugs. add in the rear end ratio of 3.0-5.3 and it puts you reasonably close to the factory number. 30*3=90 & 30*5.3=159

Firestone Transforce HT 9.5R16.5 just as an example, 9.5r16.5 runs 682 rev per mile. with a 30 tone ring and a 3.5 rear gear ratio, it'd put me at 8.95 result, which is within the range of acceptable for the computer.

ebay wants $60-150 for a used PSOM. If going all new parts, it would be pretty easy to outpace the cost of the US Shift quick 2/4

looking on car-part, the F150 psom is common at $35 and the f350 is common at $100, no difference between any of these from a swap standpoint. biggest hangup is that it would be another thing that would need to be hidden out of the way.

quoting myself for a different thing.

apparently Yukon does make a different carrier that is explicitly for the ABS open carrier, either I managed to miss that completely or chose to ignore it :laughing: anyways....pretty neat that the tone ring reads off the carrier, so it doesn't care what the gear ratio is, just the tire size vs expected.

Gear ratio does matter when changing location though. If I go to the driveshaft with the 4.88:1 gear ratio, I need to get as close to the 120 tooth as possible. 25 tone ring pickup located on the driveshaft should give me close enough to stock that I wouldn't need to reset my PSOM.

Relevant to this thread, the PSOM reads correct until 15mph, has some drops up to about 35 mph, and goes rather wonky above 45 mph. During all this, the transmission [E4OD] shifts just fine up and down.

 
Working on this for my 78. How did yours turn out?
Still sitting in my garage waiting for fall, which has turned into waiting on winter. I will say the VSS is not required. Shifts fine when loaded heavy, shifts harsh when loaded lightly without it though
 
So, to be clear. We are just using the TCM side of the PCM , so we could use a PCM from any EFI gas engine from 88-97? The trans is looking for the same inputs from all of them. MAP, IAT, ECT, VSS, brake, TPS.


PS: I read in another forum the e4od uses vss to prevent lockup below 35mph?!
 
So, to be clear. We are just using the TCM side of the PCM , so we could use a PCM from any EFI gas engine from 88-97? The trans is looking for the same inputs from all of them. MAP, IAT, ECT, VSS, brake, TPS.


PS: I read in another forum the e4od uses vss to prevent lockup below 35mph?!
I'm about 3k miles on my 93 e4od in the motorhome with the VSS disconnected. Other than firm shifts during light throttle, it shifts pretty fine.

Being the motorhome, I'm also quick to lock out O/D on hills and such and will force it into 2 as needed, but I also did that when the VSS was good.

There was a reason I got the PCM that I got, probably because I wanted MAP as it's easier to swap, but also largely due to price. There is a bug swing in PCM prices based on application, ultimately it isn't a specific combo that matters. Couldn't justify $400 on a pcm, that'd be right into Quick4 territory prices
 
I'm about 3k miles on my 93 e4od in the motorhome with the VSS disconnected. Other than firm shifts during light throttle, it shifts pretty fine.

Being the motorhome, I'm also quick to lock out O/D on hills and such and will force it into 2 as needed, but I also did that when the VSS was good.

There was a reason I got the PCM that I got, probably because I wanted MAP as it's easier to swap, but also largely due to price. There is a bug swing in PCM prices based on application, ultimately it isn't a specific combo that matters. Couldn't justify $400 on a pcm, that'd be right into Quick4 territory prices
Was that motor Homer originally a C6? I don’t know why but I thought this whole project was for the red ranch truck
 
Was that motor Homer originally a C6? I don’t know why but I thought this whole project was for the red ranch truck
No, this project is for my 78 f250 daily driver/regular tow rig.

Just in doing the rear gear swap in the motorhome and managing to be too cheap to buy/find the right ring gear carrier resulted in several thousand miles with the vss unplugged. [Which answered a bunch of questions I had about the swap]

Having the e4od in the motorhome is what convinced me to go with one in the f250. People always talk shut on autos, but that is an abused life. The fact that the motorhome with 4.10 gears and a 460 netted better economy than my 400/c6/3.5 gears really sends it home.

No issues with weight, low maintenance, and over drive :rasta:


Red farm truck is staying manual trans.
 
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