WaterH
Well-known member
Everything is so “engineered”. I love it.
This is where detailed CAD is worth the time and headache. Putting 10lbs in a 5lb bag. I didn’t plan for the brake cables or fuel line but was able to squeeze them in.getting tight in there.
good work
With one shock at bump the other is hanging out at 8” on a 10” travel shock so with limit straps at 9” there is 1” of sway bar flex left.8" arms ?
Shit, I thought my 10" ones were short.
I ran into the issue of not being able to find the right rate. My .750 x 36" still feels too stiff.
Other option for your tab would be to turn it 90 degrees and run the stud parallel to the trailing arm. That's what BKOR is doing on their cars.
This info bothers me each time I read it. I thought heat treating didn't change the modulus, just the elastic limit and fatigue strength. So heat treat shouldn't change the spring rate unless you've exceeded the elastic limit. I agree that an off road bar will likely see higher stress levels than a street bar, so maybe that was the point he was making. Still, it reminds me of the grade 5 vs grade 8 bolt discussions...Talked to Tony from TK1 Racing for a little bit. Found out that the Ultra4 bar is 1.25” at the splines and turned down to 1” across the length. So it is a lighter rate similar to what others are running.
Also found out there is more magic than the visual bar length, OD, ID, and arm length. Heat treat is specific for off road bars due to the amount of flex they have vs an on road bar. The heat treat for a long thin on road bar stiff enough to work with minimal wheel travel would snap in off road use. The heat treat for a much thicker off road bar would still flex or rotate too much for on road use. So heat treat can effect the performance of two physically identical bars. Most off road bars should all have the same range of heat treat for max flex rotation. If you get a bar from someone who also does other motor sports, make sure you get the correct heat treat.
With one shock at bump the other is hanging out at 8” on a 10” travel shock so with limit straps at 9” there is 1” of sway bar flex left.
The sway bar is a TK1 Racing KOH/Ultra4 bar 1.25" x 29 Spline at ends turned down to 1" across mid section.
The arms are 8" by name but the actual length rod end to bar center is 8.375"
The DustBuggy is tall and heavy. Full four seater with heavy lower tubes and it will be loaded with all the trail goodies.
How does yours flex? Full bump one side and full droop other?
I was regurgitating what I understood TK1 Racing was trying to explain.This info bothers me each time I read it. I thought heat treating didn't change the modulus, just the elastic limit and fatigue strength. So heat treat shouldn't change the spring rate unless you've exceeded the elastic limit. I agree that an off road bar will likely see higher stress levels than a street bar, so maybe that was the point he was making. Still, it reminds me of the grade 5 vs grade 8 bolt discussions...
Wouldn't heat treat have to change the modulus to increase strength? Otherwise there wouldn't be much point to heat treating. Maybe not so much change it, but move it further up the graph. The statement "heat treat" is tricky because it can mean so many different things.This info bothers me each time I read it. I thought heat treating didn't change the modulus, just the elastic limit and fatigue strength. So heat treat shouldn't change the spring rate unless you've exceeded the elastic limit. I agree that an off road bar will likely see higher stress levels than a street bar, so maybe that was the point he was making. Still, it reminds me of the grade 5 vs grade 8 bolt discussions...
No the modulus doesn't change. Modulus is not equal to the spring rate. The HT changes the yield and failure points. It can move it up in the Y direction and right in the X direction of your stress strain curve. The area under the curve is your toughness. Some HT just raise the yield in the y direction, strong but not very tough. Others move it in the Y and X direction strong and tough.Wouldn't heat treat have to change the modulus to increase strength? Otherwise there wouldn't be much point to heat treating. Maybe not so much change it, but move it further up the graph. The statement "heat treat" is tricky because it can mean so many different things.
No the modulus doesn't change. Modulus is not equal to the spring rate. The HT changes the yield and failure points. It can move it up in the Y direction and right in the X direction of your stress strain curve. The area under the curve is your toughness. Some HT just raise the yield in the y direction, strong but not very tough. Others move it in the Y and X direction strong and tough.
Note the edit.So all steels regardless of heat treatment have the same torsional stiffness but not all make good springs because they yield before delivering a useful amount of travel.
What I was getting at is that a spring can yield without failing. I think we've all done that to a leaf spring or two.And the edit, while technical correct, a spring that has failed has also yielded.
No degree here, so I'm having a hard time getting my head around this.So all steels regardless of heat treatment have the same torsional stiffness but not all make good springs because they fail before delivering a useful amount of travel.
No he's saying modulus of elasticity doesn't change. The relationship between stress and strain is the same for all steel regardless of HT up to the yield point. That's how the modulus is defined. The modulus is the slope of the line on a stress strain curve up to the yield point. The yield point is what moves.No degree here, so I'm having a hard time getting my head around this.
So you're saying that a 1" high-carbon bar through-hardened to 70rc vs the same bar annealed with take the same amount of force to twist 2*? Never mind the inevitable shatter/pretzel...
And that high-carbon hard bar vs a dimensionally identical low-carbon bar?
No degree here, so I'm having a hard time getting my head around this.
So you're saying that a 1" high-carbon bar through-hardened to 70rc vs the same bar annealed with take the same amount of force to twist 2*? Never mind the inevitable shatter/pretzel...
And that high-carbon hard bar vs a dimensionally identical low-carbon bar?
What I was getting at is that a spring can yield without failing. I think we've all done that to a leaf spring or two.
I was thinking more along the lines of bent=fix later and broken=stop and fix now.But I personally feel like if a sway bar yields it is done. Who wants to drive around leaning arse sideways???
I have twisted mine permanently and it makes for weird reactions, that's for sure...I get your point because both other failure modes (brittle fracture and fatigue) result in a bar broken in half. But I personally feel like if a sway bar yields it is done. Who wants to drive around leaning arse sideways???
Can't be much worse than a broken torsion bar and the sway bar holding that side of the vehicle up.I have twisted mine permanently and it makes for weird reactions, that's for sure...
takes double shear to the next level. i like it alot and actually given me an ideaLimit straps are mounted in the rear.
24” quad wrap Kartek branded. I think all these come from the same factory with different brand patches. I had them left over so I will stay with Kartek brand but I really like the Elrods Prostrap brand.
These 24” stretch to 24.25” static. My research says that they will stretch to 26” single and 25” dual. I set them up at 25.5” which gives me 16” of travel plus 1.25” of dynamic stretch travel. So 17.25” of travel is my best guess.
yes yes it is.Thats still single sheer Chappy. Love this build hope to steal a bunch of ideas for the new buggy build.