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Dust Buggy

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Why the “neck down” in the intake?
 

I’ve been having a lot of problems with these relays. It may or may not be due to other wiring issues on my truck. I noticed that your relays have a part number on them of V23232-D0001-X001. Mine say V23232-A0001-Y015. They look identical and both say 12V 75 A. In my research, this relay is the starter relay on a BMW motorcycle. Now I’m wondering if this relay can’t take continuous current.

I know you do far more research on this kind of stuff than I. Are the part numbers indicative of major difference inside? Is there really a difference in a starter relay as apposed to continues duty?

My relay

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I’ve been having a lot of problems with these relays. It may or may not be due to other wiring issues on my truck. I noticed that your relays have a part number on them of V23232-D0001-X001. Mine say V23232-A0001-Y015. They look identical and both say 12V 75 A. In my research, this relay is the starter relay on a BMW motorcycle. Now I’m wondering if this relay can’t take continuous current.

I know you do far more research on this kind of stuff than I. Are the part numbers indicative of major difference inside? Is there really a difference in a starter relay as apposed to continues duty?




They appear to be the same.
My only guess is check polarity. 86 and 30 are + Maybe the resistor has some effect?

I ran them with zero issues on the old buggy switching high amperage brushed fans.
 
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The hand brake looks a little uncomfortable. Is that the way you like it or did it just work out the best that way? I really like the switches/gauge boxes. I know you don’t have lots of rain/mud out your way, but will you have any plexiglass or sheet metal shields for the front tires?
 
Looks like a hand brake lever on the driver's side door bar area?? And yeah, looks a little uncomfortable to me but I haven't sat in it to say for sure...
Oh hell.

Foot in mouth moment :homer:
 
WaterH No hand brake on there. 3 Tcase levers.
I believe he's referring to the hand brake mounted on the driver door diagonal. I was wondering the same thing, it looks tough to work where it's mounted.

Beautiful work as usual. :smokin:

Edit: I thought the diagonal panel under shifter area was formed until I zoomed in and saw your tiny aluminum weld. Really nice welding and so clean. Not many can have a welded panel lay flat like that without some sort of warpage. Props to you my friend. Can't wait to see the exterior skins!
 
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Hand brake is between the seat and forward so my leg doesn’t touch it. Very easy to reach while buckled in. Geometry of arm and lever move together, push back against seat to engage.
 
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Now I see. Looks good. I should have known you were two steps ahead. Here’s another question you probably got figured out.

Does your steering wheel got adjustment up or down? On my build, I figured where I wanted it and built the dash around. After I got driving, I had to raise it 3/4”. That doesn’t sound like much, but it was a pain in the ass to do. (It was worth it) On yours, I can’t see that good, but I guess you could shim it a bit.
 
I have too many hours figuring out what height and depth to set the steering wheel. Not just for myself but for my boys or anyone else who is smaller.
Both seats have a slider on them that moves 4" on a 5 degree rise.
Buckled in tight to both feet on the ground is around 4 seconds, with or without the steering wheel removed.
 
Stupid question about the two above images.....are the black (appear to be braided in some sort of abrasion resistant fabric) lines running under the passenger seat coolant lines to the rear radiator? Can you tell me who makes them if that's the case? I have a front radiator buggy that's going to require custom routing as well as a rear radiator one that will need something like what you have pictured (if it is indeed for coolant).

BTW, beautiful fab/design work.
 
Stupid question about the two above images.....are the black (appear to be braided in some sort of abrasion resistant fabric) lines running under the passenger seat coolant lines to the rear radiator? Can you tell me who makes them if that's the case? I have a front radiator buggy that's going to require custom routing as well as a rear radiator one that will need something like what you have pictured (if it is indeed for coolant).

BTW, beautiful fab/design work.


I am using -20 hose and AN fittings.
The hose will get a heat shield where it passes under the seat as it is somewhat near the exhaust. Will probably need some abrasion resistant cover where it transitions from the aluminum conduit. The aluminum is 1" x 4" C channel that sandwiches together to shield the hose and the passengers.
 

I am using -20 hose and AN fittings.
The hose will get a heat shield where it passes under the seat as it is somewhat near the exhaust. Will probably need some abrasion resistant cover where it transitions from the aluminum conduit. The aluminum is 1" x 4" C channel that sandwiches together to shield the hose and the passengers.
Thanks so much!
 
wow awesome idea. and no rust. should work smooth as glass

Seems like every seat slider people make is just metal on metal - how easy does it slide? Is it doable multiple times a day, or just occasionally when adjusting the seat doesn't have to happen often. Looks awesome and your work is always super clean, just curious how it operates...
 
They appear to be the same.
My only guess is check polarity. 86 and 30 are + Maybe the resistor has some effect?

I ran them with zero issues on the old buggy switching high amperage brushed fans.

I thought I would update the question I had earlier on the relays. I got some that are the same part number as yours. At first glance they look identical.

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Upon closer inspection, I noticed a couple differences. The main terminals on the Bosch are riveted through the plastic housing as apposed to the tab going right into the housing on the Tyco. Also, the output terminal on the Tyco relay has a copper tab on top of it.

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Searching on the net suggests that polarity is not that important on many relays, but in this case, that copper tab on just one side indicates to me the polarity is important. (At least on this relay) The fact that the Bosch relay is listed as a starter relay for a motorcycle and the Tyco relay does not list an application other then continues duty is a good sign that it is of better quality. It maybe that this style relay was built for the starting purpose and then later they made a few changes to accommodate continues duty.

Anyways, I don’t want to muck up your thread to much, but you can feel good that you chose the right relay.
 
Seems like every seat slider people make is just metal on metal - how easy does it slide? Is it doable multiple times a day, or just occasionally when adjusting the seat doesn't have to happen often. Looks awesome and your work is always super clean, just curious how it operates...
The seat is heavy but it does slide fairly easily. Must be out of it to slide. Both pins need to be released at the same time. I did spray the tubes with Teflon powder film/lube as clean SS will seize fairly easy. Dirt or dust will even work to keep them from seizing. Rare occasion to slide it as I will be driving most of the time. Only slide if the kids or wife want to drive.
 
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Mounted the ECU and while trying to get the wires to lay halfway the way I wanted to, noticed that some of the wires were being pulled tight on the connector terminals. So I pulled off all the old tape released the tight wires and retaped in the right shape. Still had slack but the load on the connectors was released.

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Also mounted up catch cans. Power steering coolers with valves and vents. Cut down a 12” cooler to 6” where I was short on room. The two 12” are for T Case and NWF. Overkill yes but not worth the work of cutting down on length. Also adds in cooling any hot overflow.
Debating adding one to the steering reservoir as it only has an outlet on the pressure cap. So oil will only drain out.

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