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Dust Buggy

Sketched up the front coils to better understand what was going on.
Since the air bumps bottom out with 2" of shock shaft left, I needed 8" of comp to get 5.5" of usable travel.
3" of comp before 2.5" air bump engage = 5.5" usable travel

Which one is better?

150 over 250 with 3.5" preload
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200 over 250 with 2" preload
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Technically you should be in the 1-2" preload range for the front but I would probably go with the 150/250. Lighter primary rate and have greater change over rate when you hit the dual rate stop.

Also, IMO I wouldnt be wasting 2" of full bump travel just so the bumps hit at full flex. The rubber bumper on the shock is enough to handle full flex without causing any problems. What are the chances of a high shock speed fully flexed situation where you would need the air bump? Just my .02
 
93blackxj said:
Technically you should be in the 1-2" preload range for the front but I would probably go with the 150/250. Lighter primary rate and have greater change over rate when you hit the dual rate stop.

Also, IMO I wouldnt be wasting 2" of full bump travel just so the bumps hit at full flex. The rubber bumper on the shock is enough to handle full flex without causing any problems. What are the chances of a high shock speed fully flexed situation where you would need the air bump? Just my .02
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The air bumps keep the crank off the links and axle off the chassis. The extra 2” of shock travel allow more flex travel around the bump, but the shocks do bump at the same time the air bumps do at flex so all of it gets used.
 
gt1guy said:
Wait a minute......you're going to blast yourself with the horns?

I've never hit my horn to get my own attention.:flipoff2:

Have you tested them? Those things are usually loud as hell. Normally they get mounted like a claymore......front towards enemy.
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no shit. them things will blast out some serious noise....
 
Not racing so I don’t need to honk at the person in front of me. More so for people know where I’m at, like a moron going to back up into the side of me while parked.
 
Opiebennett said:
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Obviously there are plenty of situations that would come up in general. But a 4 seat rock crawler is not going to encounter the same situations as a full body desert pre runner, so your argument is invalid :flipoff2:. Danny does build some bad ass stuff though. Also go look at a miller motor sports car. There is no way their bumps hit at full flex with how far inboard they are. But doesnt seem to slow them down.

 
mobil1syn said:
i like up travel, having the bump and shock bottom together on articulation gives up too much for my liking.
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Down travel is set by the drive shaft angle.
Uptravel is set by the air bumps as axle, steering, truss, and links wound start hitting the chassis and or components.
Had extra shock travel so added to the only use left, articulatation travel.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
How many times have you seen an Ultra4 car come off a jump at an angle and land hard on a front corner? Makes sense to still have the air bump usable for that situation. Unless you have bypasses which I don’t.

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Are you racing ultra 4? Once again I never said the situation never happens. I said it’s doubtful in YOUR situation. All I’m saying is I would choose travel over bumps at full flex
 
If you haven’t checked out the iBooster thread, have a look.
irate4x4.com

iBooster Electric Brake Booster

I didn't see anything on irate about the iBooster so wanted to start a thread about it now that I have some evidence of it being good for crawling. This is meant to give information and add options when it comes to braking, not to say it's better or worse than other options. Summary: I...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com
I didn’t want to take the time to figure out how to fit one in right now, but the technology is too good to pass up. It also fits in with having the ability for smaller and less powerful people be able to drive comfortably with powerful brakes and less leg travel.
 
iBooster is in, don’t know how well it will work, but reviews say it makes for a much more comfortable drive. One of the biggest advantages is when my boys drive, they will have a much easier time working the brakes.
I wanted it to be a direct bolt in to the Wilwood MC/pedal combo. So for whatever reason, it can be switched out without fab work.
This was one of the more difficult designs for the buggy as far as time goes. Making sure everything cleared and shoehorned in.

Ratio is 4:1
Travel is 1.25” at MC
MC is around 1” metric
Travel is 5” at pedal
Geometry is very close to OEM
iBooster is a Gen2 Honda Accord
M12-1.0 banjo bolts to -3AN banjos
Still need to add a brake light switch, probably a mil spec toggle momentary NC contact that closes on first pedal movement

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Love the dual pedal mount. Very nice !

You may / will need a way bigger master. This one is too small for your calipers I think.
 
Bebop said:
Love the dual pedal mount. Very nice !

You may / will need a way bigger master. This one is too small for your calipers I think.
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Someone is using the same MC with a set of stock super duty calipers with success. I am running the smaller displacement rear calipers on all four corners.
 
I'm curious to hear your feedback then. Cause I'm designing an adapter for a bigger GM MC now.
 
Bebop said:
I'm curious to hear your feedback then. Cause I'm designing an adapter for a bigger GM MC now.
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The long 9:1 pedal like TMR PH and BK travel 11.25” for 1.25” MC travel. That is way too much foot travel.
Stock 7:1 Wilwood is 8.75” travel for 1.25” MC travel.
A 3/4” MC is 55% volume of a 1” MC.
I don’t think the MC are moving that much.
 
Badass pedal design. Clean and simple:smokin: Looking forward to seeing what you do with the brake light switch
 
Mounted a Agency 6 shovel, they have through holes so they can be bolted up without a grab mount of some sorts.
Welded on a bunch of TMR zip tie tabs. These are so small, took forever to deburr and polish all of them. I tried TIG with ER70S and the welds were either burning through or cold and lumpy. Then I tried silicon bronze, still didn't flow well as the backside of the thin tab would oxidize and the backside pass was contaminated and crusty. Then gave ER312SS a try and about halfway through the tab welding got the process down and was happy with the final ones. The trick was to keep adding filler the whole time and keeping the heat up high.
Also welded up all the body panel tabs. No one might notice or care, but the body tabs and shovel tabs are from WOD Wide Open Designs, they abrasive tumble them so they deburred and clean for welding, I don't know of anyone else that does that but it is well worth it. Also no one might notice or care but when mounting the tabs upside down they will trap water and mud. So on the shovel tabs I opened up the centers so they would drain. Wish I would have thought about it earlier since some tabs will trap.

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I have broke every single insert in my WOD tabs.
All I have to say.

Your buggy looks damn good dude.
 
the threaded inserts all galled up and spun after a few uses.

I'm sure that if you could use anti-seize and a torque wrench on every bolt, but realistically, who does ?

I replaced them with nutserts from HF and haven't had any more issues since...
 
exposed threads get dirty and destroy threads on the way out. keep garbage off the threads, by having the fastener shorter than the thread depth, say no to fine thread and best case scenario is to have the threaded insert enclosed.

also body clips are great for skids plates and stuff because they are easy to swap out if they get destryoed.
 
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Made an adapter for the lower reservoir. Started out with a Parker brass bulkhead in 1/8" NPT and whittled it down to profile the OEM barb.
Used a 2" Banjo cam lock to 2" NPT fitting and whittled it down, added a bottom cap and two ports for a reservoir.
Have not figured out how to vent the cap yet. Will tap the top cap 1/8" or 1/4" NPT and add a fitting and a breather but not sure if it needs a splash guard of some sort for overflow. Maybe one of the little diff bellows might fit inside or outside. Need to find out if the bellows are brake fluid compatible.

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