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Reworked the fuel safety shutoff to include a rear axle breather vent and a spare.
There are two bigger catch cans from an earlier post, one for trans and one for the doubler or 205.
The new breather will be for the doubler or the 205. What say you?


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T or Y the cases together and vent them to the same catch can.
 
I would weld those tubes the whole way around.

Edit, just joking above. I havnt been getting alerts on this thread. I just backed up a few pages and dam, you have been making serious progress. It’s all so nicely done.

Question, where did you get the honey comb guard for the cooler. It looks like it might have been custom made.
 
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Talked to NWF about the EcoBox and 205 breathers and oils.

The scalloped internal EcoBox uses 1QT of Redline MT90 synthetic. The synthetic works well with the high speed planetaries to reduce hydraulic induced heat. That is why the cases can not be filled full even if used with a pump and cooling system. Dry sump pumping works to keep air in the case. Forcing oil into the case from a pumped source can overfill the rate of drainage, or not fill if the reservoir is holding too much fluid. That is why feeding from a trans can be problematic not only for the EcoBox but the trans itself.

The 205 needs a thicker 80-90W oil that is non synthetic to cushion the gear mesh to reduce noise.

For breathers and catch cans that can return oil, the two cases should not be combined as the fluids should not mix.

The EcoBox has a small volume that doesn’t need much for breathing. The CanAm X3 front diff uses a bellow for 17oz. of oil. So plan is to run 2 bellows for the 32oz. In the EcoBox. This eliminates hose and breather or moisture entering the case.

The 205 is around 2.5qt. depending upon how it is clocked. The center idler gear bearings need to be in the oil so maybe a sight tube is the easiest way to see the level regardless of clocking.

The 205 volume is too much for a bellow so it will get one of the catch can with a breather and lock off valve.
 
WaterH said:
I would weld those tubes the whole way around.

Edit, just joking above. I havnt been getting alerts on this thread. I just backed up a few pages and dam, you have been making serious progress. It’s all so nicely done.

Question, where did you get the honey comb guard for the cooler. It looks like it might have been custom made.
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Thanks, the honeycomb was a pattern I used a long time ago for a fan guard for OSHA compliance. The hex is 1/2” which is max for fingers trying to get through. I’ve used it a couple of times since then. It’s easy to pattern out to fit any shape.
 
Bellow specs:
10” of vac was fully collapsed
5 psi was fully expanded
These are not balloon thin like others. They are thick and tough. You would probably blow a seal before popping one. Good side is they can take physical damage without ripping. Sticks, rocks, pressure washer.
If you got a bar manifold you could run 4-6 of these on it and probably be good for an axle or t-case.

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So what is the measurement when at rest? (they wouldn’t be running a vacuum very often) I looked into these awhile back and was not sure if they actually would be a benefit. I’m not sure how much pressure there is on , let’s say, a T-case when it goes from 70 degrees to 160. Then you would have to figure out if the bellows would expand enough to reduce the psi enough. I didn’t think of the manifold idea. I figure you are stronger at math than I.
 
Update with no pictures, yes I know its lame.
Starting disassembly as needed to get access for welding tabs and upper chassis.
Burning in the root pass and being humbled that I can not weld like I used to. Welding is a perishable skill, then add demishing eye sight and flexibility. Still on a super tight schedule to finish welding, have it disassembled and painted before it get cold and rains. The official deadline was Nov. 1st. Realistically I'll miss it and I don't really care. I had decided to coach one of my boys footballs teams and we made it to playoffs so free time went out the window. Since the goal for this buggy is to make something that they can enjoy, the buggy can take a backseat until football is over. Coaching against my brother, and my son is playing against his cousin so the first playoff game goes blood deep. Hopefully we loose so the season ends early and I can get back to work before the holidays derail all activity. Was able to squeeze in the IBooster and some rework so happy with progress so far.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Bellow specs:
10” of vac was fully collapsed
5 psi was fully expanded
These are not balloon thin like others. They are thick and tough. You would probably blow a seal before popping one. Good side is they can take physical damage without ripping. Sticks, rocks, pressure washer.
If you got a bar manifold you could run 4-6 of these on it and probably be good for an axle or t-case.


is this the below you are talking about?
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HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Stripped down to bare chassis. Main tubes are all welded out. Made a caster/roller cart for moving around, will be used for painting. Flipped the chassis on its sides to weld out everything. Still have the gusset tubes and the bottom skid tabs to go.
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It sure has to feel good to get to this point.:beer:
 
Think those vent bellows would work on a front axle? Does it matter if it’s an ARB?
 
I've had them on a pair of jk rubi axles for a few 1000 miles now. No real issues after I used a hose to move the rear's away from the exhaust.
 
Prepped the chassis, scotched brited the whole thing, wiped down with acetone. Watched the weather and hit 75° no humidity. Time to paint. Started airless spraying the Steel-It since a HVLP can’t spray thick material. Was going on good from the under side. Started spraying the under tubes at the mid section and noticed overspray and thought maybe it would flow in smooth once sprayed. No it did not, FUBAR’d the paint job. Axles turned out great as the over spray fell to the ground and not onto far away tubes.

Now I need to find someone to blast the whole thing, because the last time I pressure washer sand blasted, it was miserable and that was a truck frame, trying to get all these tubes blasted is going to be a nightmare.

I really didn't want powder coating, but maybe this is the best way?
I have no idea how much blasting and powder coating is?
I'm sure a vented paint booth would have helped pull away the overspray, but what is to be expected?
Does normal car paint do this as well?

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I think not getting overspray when trying to paint a jungle gym like you're working with is virtually impossible. Even in a professional down draft paint booth, you still have layers of tubes below where you're spraying to catch overspray.
Was your plan just to use the Steel-it? Or were you planing to top coat it?
 
gt1guy said:
I think not getting overspray when trying to paint a jungle gym like you're working with is virtually impossible. Even in a professional down draft paint booth, you still have layers of tubes below where you're spraying to catch overspray.
Was your plan just to use the Steel-it? Or were you planing to top coat it?
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Single coat steel-it.
 
Is that the worst place or is there lots of places like that? I don’t mind some texture (I even like it), but that is particularly bad there. When my old company use to spray helicopter frames, they would spray the top first and the rotate the frame for the last bit of spraying. They still got overspray, but when it was flipped back up right, it didnt show as much.
 
Did some more research on tube chassis painting and steel-it.
Also decided I really don’t want powder coating as it can’t be reworked.
Overspray is going to happen with any sprayed paint. Steel-it makes a lot of overspray because of the pigment and how thick it sprays. Everyone showing video or pictures has the same black floor underneath the chassis.
Good news is the bottom sides are coated and smooth. I got a lot of the corners and insides before calling it quits.
Bad news is overspray has to be knocked down / sanded before repainting. 200 grit and or a scotch brite starting from top working way down in sections.
So sand top tubes to mid, then spray, then sand mid tubes, then spray, then sand bottom tubes then spray.
Also switching to cans as the airless puts out too much paint creating more overspray.
 
Mask off everything below the area you want to paint with paper. Easier than sanding.
 
It sucks, but I have heard good things about “Steel It”. So it maybe worth the extra trouble.
 
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