HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
All right going back to squared off. The sun and rain would likely be more annoying than the few extra inches of clearance. I also think the square looks better. Thanks for the input.
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Dust Buggy
- Thread starter HYDRODYNAMIC
- Start date
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
What's up with the pics in post #266?
Here's a screen shot of what I'm seeing.
edit: deleted the screen shot so it doesn't pollute the thread.
Here's a screen shot of what I'm seeing.
edit: deleted the screen shot so it doesn't pollute the thread.
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HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
I went back and fixed it. I know Austin said the geeks would take care of it but I wanted to add the before and after pictures to see the difference.
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HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
The roof is back to square, to keep out the sun and rain.
New question is the angle of the A pillar ? Slanted way back like a Bomber or straight up like a flat fender?
EDIT: I slanted it back to where the bottom of the steering wheel is still under the roofline. I have seen this aspect ratio on some other cars.
I also noticed that I never confirmed the dummy torso length. So the roof dropped a little. Right now there is 4.75" clearance between the head and the bottom of the roof tube. The distance from floor to top of head is 43.375".
New question is the angle of the A pillar ? Slanted way back like a Bomber or straight up like a flat fender?
EDIT: I slanted it back to where the bottom of the steering wheel is still under the roofline. I have seen this aspect ratio on some other cars.
I also noticed that I never confirmed the dummy torso length. So the roof dropped a little. Right now there is 4.75" clearance between the head and the bottom of the roof tube. The distance from floor to top of head is 43.375".
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gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Leaned back looks better. That said, leaned back makes it easier to fail in a good roll.
vetteboy79
It's bent. #ttb
Something like that...it would irritate me having the A/kicker/B/C pillar bars all at different angles. Get some parallelism in there
WaterH
Well-known member
For some reason I can't see any pics.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Front driveline is almost in. The mid shaft yokes are hitting just slightly at full droop. With some clearancing they should be good.
Plenty of driveshaft to link clearance. The driveshaft if 2.5" OD with .25" wall.
Would it be better off to run the slip on the high end to keep it out of the rocks or low so if water got in, it could drain out?
Plenty of driveshaft to link clearance. The driveshaft if 2.5" OD with .25" wall.
Would it be better off to run the slip on the high end to keep it out of the rocks or low so if water got in, it could drain out?
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HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
First Irate4x4 Parts Counter shipment showed up.
SPL70-1550XC
Looking at the size of these things, makes me wonder how some people are snapping them. I went back and forth on whether to run these with needles for a longer life or one of the many bushing styles that requires greasing all the time. I will give these a chance until I start snapping them of an occurrence that is more of a hassle than greasing, disassembly, and inspection of the bushing style.
SPL70-1550XC
Looking at the size of these things, makes me wonder how some people are snapping them. I went back and forth on whether to run these with needles for a longer life or one of the many bushing styles that requires greasing all the time. I will give these a chance until I start snapping them of an occurrence that is more of a hassle than greasing, disassembly, and inspection of the bushing style.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
In order to have the axle and midshaft joints cancel out the midshaft must be nearly flat, which is parallel with the pinion. This requires running the midshaft down hill to cancel out the angle that the drivetrain is placed at. The CV is seeing around 8 degrees. A single joint would have noticeable vibration at 8 degrees. 5 degrees is the recommended max, with the mid and axle joints cancelling out with 8 degrees of angle at each joint.
WaterH
Well-known member
My vote is run the slip at the top.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
The stock shafts and the lower maintenance u joints appears to be the most reasonable for now until I figure out how often I will end up breaking shafts and joints.
93blackxj
Well-known member
Did you use the Spicer midship splined stub with the 30mm bearing shoulder? If so did you find that tapped base pillow block in 30mm or turn down the stub to use a 1-3/8 bearing?
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
I used a 1-7/16" set screw spherical ball bearing in a SS tap base housing. The Spicer midship splined stub is the same one as the super duty rear shaft, it uses a Dana 60 yoke. I turned down the shaft to slip fit the bearing and extended the usable shaft length so the yoke and bearing length would create full overlap and the yoke nut would end up centered on the threads. I also turned down the 3"? tube journal to 2" slip fit for the 2.5" x .25" wall tube, leaving a shoulder to keep them aligned.
93blackxj
Well-known member
Okay cool, yeah same idea I had planned just on a slightly smaller scale. Was just curious if you came up with a better solution. Im using the 1-3/8" 10 spline spicer stub, rubi 1330 CV and 1330/1350 joints on a half ton TJ. Im going to have to do the same thing and turn the shoulder back to allow room for the spherical insert bearing. Is the poly bushings you used just a link/crossmember style sleeved tube bushings?
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
2" x .25" wall or 1.75" x .12" wall x 2" long tube works. The sleeve is 2.5" long with 1/2" hole. The tap base bearing is 1/2" so it bolts right up.
Prothane 19-605-BL Black 2" Pivot Bushing Kit
Amazon.comFor some reason the Spicer Dana 60 yoke and stub shaft have a interference fit and need a lot of force to install. I tried two stubs shafts and two yokes and all combinations are super tight. From all the hammering it left needle bearing marks on the u joint crosses. since they are on the no load side of the cross pin I am going to run them as is and keep an eye on them before replacing them right away.
PartiallyCommittedRacing
New member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2021
- Member Number
- 3615
- Messages
- 3
What carrier bearing is that? Is that something you made?Front driveline is almost in. The mid shaft yokes are hitting just slightly at full droop. With some clearancing they should be good.
Plenty of driveshaft to link clearance. The driveshaft if 2.5" OD with .25" wall.
Would it be better off to run the slip on the high end to keep it out of the rocks or low so if water got in, it could drain out?
sorry if I missed it somewhere in the thread
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Northern Drivetrain, LLC: Ø1.250 - 29 Involute Spline
If I did it over again I would use the older thick 1.25"-10 spline Dana 60 yoke and stub shaft as the newer 29 spline is too tight to assemble.
NDT also make a kit that is similar. I think a spherical bearing is better as it will rotate in the housing compared to a fixed housing bearing were it can bind up. Benefit is they machine the stub shaft for you.
Northern Drivetrain, LLC: Northern Drivetrain NDT-00186
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Hand parking brake is in. Generic Dorman hand brake lever. Generic golf cart brake cable. Stock F250 brake cable.
Found out that the cables need to be hand tensioned for take up during assembly as the lever does not have enough travel for take up and applying the brakes. The hand tension keeps the cables nice and tight when the brakes are off with no brake application. Hand lever then engages mid travel before locking over center.
I added a take up threaded sleeve tensioner for even more adjustment but probably don’t need it. The line clamps are to stress releave the cables when cycling.
Found out that the cables need to be hand tensioned for take up during assembly as the lever does not have enough travel for take up and applying the brakes. The hand tension keeps the cables nice and tight when the brakes are off with no brake application. Hand lever then engages mid travel before locking over center.
I added a take up threaded sleeve tensioner for even more adjustment but probably don’t need it. The line clamps are to stress releave the cables when cycling.
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HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Reworked the steering cooler to make room for the brake cable and also because the hoses used to run right where I wanted to step to get in. I want to have a cut out in the side panel so I can put my foot through. This also leaves room in the boat side for maybe an air tank.
Rerouted the hydraulic lines and added the Spal fan to the cooler. Decided to go brushed for the small diameter as the smallest 10” brushless is too much fan to package. The fan is further away as well now so noise is not really an issue to drop rpm with PWM. I don’t know if I will even add a temp switch or just run it continuously with the motor. Might add a PWM module and run it 25%-75% continuously depending on the seasonal weather temps. Being up front it should have clean colder air and remove a fair amount of heat without the fan even running.
Rerouted the hydraulic lines and added the Spal fan to the cooler. Decided to go brushed for the small diameter as the smallest 10” brushless is too much fan to package. The fan is further away as well now so noise is not really an issue to drop rpm with PWM. I don’t know if I will even add a temp switch or just run it continuously with the motor. Might add a PWM module and run it 25%-75% continuously depending on the seasonal weather temps. Being up front it should have clean colder air and remove a fair amount of heat without the fan even running.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Not sure if you are joking or not.
I’ll defend myself either way.
I usually always run JIC female on hose fittings for swivel and to keep things common as most parts houses have JIC in line size or one step up or down. This requires an adapter from whatever SAE or NPT to correct line size. Straight cast adapters have no significant pressure drop.
For the cooler I have to drop down from -16 SAE to -12 line which is being feed by a -8 line. Adapter fittings are cross drilled with the larger size port so the flow path is larger than what is entering. The oil is free to move around with all the extra room that the 90* turn doesn’t effect it much. When going from a -8 to -16 one could argue that the cooler core is more restrictive than the 90* elbow.
90* cast elbows with same size ports as line size are totally different and will create a pressure drop and I avoid them at all costs.
I also feel a lot better having a -16 cast 90* on the end of the cooler where a possible rock or tree contact could occur. A tube 90* will stick out further and not fair as well under the same impact.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Fuel lines are in. 1/2” SS hardline from the rear to the front under the floorboards with rigid tube mounts and Swagelok fittings. SS braided hose from the cell to the 1/4 turn safety shut off valve and SS braided hose up to the fuel rail with a high temp silicone tube/shield. The in tank pump has a high tech vent/rollover valve so I opted for a shutoff valve and filter vent vs. running a line around the tank, might add a hose and drop the filter down lower if I find some fuel works it’s way out during fueling.
Not sure if you are joking or not.
I’ll defend myself either way.
i was halfway joking, its a personal preference thing i guess.
WaterH
Well-known member
1/2" fuel lines? Makes me think "You know you've got a leadfoot when you need 1/2" fuel lines".