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Dust Buggy

Any thoughts on tank or small reservoir? On last rig I did the ARB compressor because it had the small built in reservoir. Its not very big but my thought was it gives just a little more volume to the air locker as a buffer and not have to run as often if small leak.
 
Wow amazking fab work!

One concern, is the MAF too close to the bends in the intake? I have had an issue with that before, not enough straight pipe and the MAF was getting turbulent air and screwing with things.
 
The Thomas compressors are nice, but $$$ once you get into sizes that output enough CFMs to actually fill tires. HYDRODYNAMIC did you buy this compressor specifically for the buggy, or was it a takeoff/leftover from a job? That's a damn nice compressor.

I have an old Thomas 1/10hp compressor sitting in a spare parts box that's great for actuating air lockers, but there's no way it would air up 37s from 10 to 30psi in less than an in hour. And it's a $350 unit... LOL.

I have a louder Viair 450c under the hood. For $200 it works well enough and I'll deal with the occasional noise.
 
Any thoughts on tank or small reservoir? On last rig I did the ARB compressor because it had the small built in reservoir. Its not very big but my thought was it gives just a little more volume to the air locker as a buffer and not have to run as often if small leak.

I have a 3.4 gallon 6" round x 28" long aluminum air tank that I will most likely mount under the rear deck or under the floor.
 
Wow amazking fab work!

One concern, is the MAF too close to the bends in the intake? I have had an issue with that before, not enough straight pipe and the MAF was getting turbulent air and screwing with things.

Thank you.
From the research I did on MAF flow for my particular model I was good with the infeed and outfeed length and bends. The MAF flow area is exactly as it is in factory form meaning same diameter which made a big difference in the tune when I dropped it down from 4" dia. to 3.625" dia. from best I can remember. I had similar elbows on the last buggy with the exact same SS tube housing and it ran great so I am predicting the same performance.
 
The Thomas compressors are nice, but $$$ once you get into sizes that output enough CFMs to actually fill tires. HYDRODYNAMIC did you buy this compressor specifically for the buggy, or was it a takeoff/leftover from a job? That's a damn nice compressor.

I have an old Thomas 1/10hp compressor sitting in a spare parts box that's great for actuating air lockers, but there's no way it would air up 37s from 10 to 30psi in less than an in hour. And it's a $350 unit... LOL.

I have a louder Viair 450c under the hood. For $200 it works well enough and I'll deal with the occasional noise.

I ran two of the highest output Viairs on the old buggy due to the air bag suspension and they ran all the time and at a higher noise level and I new I was going to wear them out if I continued to run them like that even though they were continuous duty. I researched and found the Thomas compressor which is rebuildable and bought it specifically for the buggy as I knew I would end up spending close to that on Viairs and wasted time with breakdowns vs the lifetime of the Thomas. The .5HP model is acutally closer to 3/4HP and price is very close to the Oasis/York style that many people run. Someone also makes a belt drive version that uses a 1/2HP 12V motor and a belt drive to a regular flywheel piston head like a shop compressor would have. Maybe there are more options available today but at the time, to get a reliable continuous duty long life compressor, Thomas was the best option.

You could also build a belt drive setup.
https://www.compressorworld.com/jen...stage-air-compressor-pump-150-psi-f-pump.html
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...p_to_2hp)/general_purpose/mtpm-p75-1m18?gclid

I also tried running a power inverter and a 120V oil less compressor but the power inverter I had died so I gave up on that route.

The Hummer runs the smaller version that you might be able to find surplus but they will probably be 24V. Mine has a industry standard 56C 12 volt permanent magnet motor. If you found a 24V pump head you could always put it on a 12V surplus motor.

The biggest ARB looks more affordable and has high amps so it must do some work. The heads and motors are smaller so I could see them wearing out faster than a larger slower rpm unit.
 
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The ARB compressor does do some serious work, but it's not any quieter than the Viair, you're right.

And just another point of reference... the Viair 450, while 100% duty cycle, is MUCH lower CFM at low PSI than the 400 or 440 series. I had a 450 and ditched it before going on UA because it took 22 minutes to air my 40s from 10psi to 28psi. I moved to the 440 which now does it in 12 minutes, but gets hot AF and has a lower duty cycle... though I've never had an issue with it shutting on unless doing a second or third set of tires. My rough estimations put the ARB at about 7-8 minutes for reference - and a York or similar belt-driven pump can probably shave 2-3 more minutes off. If filling a tank back up to 100+psi, I'd for sure stick with a 100% duty cycle compressor though.

That Thomas will work great I imagine, but a tough pill (for me) to swallow at nearly 4x the cost of the ARB.
 
Thank you.
From the research I did on MAF flow for my particular model I was good with the infeed and outfeed length and bends. The MAF flow area is exactly as it is in factory form meaning same diameter which made a big difference in the tune when I dropped it down from 4" dia. to 3.625" dia. from best I can remember. I had similar elbows on the last buggy with the exact same SS tube housing and it ran great so I am predicting the same performance.

Sounds like you have it covered! Sorry to bring stupid stuff up, but it was one I ran into myself.
 
Sounds like you have it covered! Sorry to bring stupid stuff up, but it was one I ran into myself.

Not stupid at all, I did it wrong the first go around because I never heard or knew the tube had to be a certain diameter or required special tuning. Reading things like this is what prevents having to do things twice.
 
The ARB compressor does do some serious work, but it's not any quieter than the Viair, you're right.

And just another point of reference... the Viair 450, while 100% duty cycle, is MUCH lower CFM at low PSI than the 400 or 440 series. I had a 450 and ditched it before going on UA because it took 22 minutes to air my 40s from 10psi to 28psi. I moved to the 440 which now does it in 12 minutes, but gets hot AF and has a lower duty cycle... though I've never had an issue with it shutting on unless doing a second or third set of tires. My rough estimations put the ARB at about 7-8 minutes for reference - and a York or similar belt-driven pump can probably shave 2-3 more minutes off. If filling a tank back up to 100+psi, I'd for sure stick with a 100% duty cycle compressor though.

That Thomas will work great I imagine, but a tough pill (for me) to swallow at nearly 4x the cost of the ARB.

Interesting point about the 450 versus 440 or 400 series, hopefully my 2.5gal tank and 100psi pressure switch will keep my 450 running closer to the right operating range to get decent CFMs.
 
I ran two of the highest output Viairs on the old buggy due to the air bag suspension and they ran all the time and at a higher noise level and I new I was going to wear them out if I continued to run them like that even though they were continuous duty. I researched and found the Thomas compressor which is rebuildable and bought it specifically for the buggy as I knew I would end up spending close to that on Viairs and wasted time with breakdowns vs the lifetime of the Thomas. The .5HP model is acutally closer to 3/4HP and price is very close to the Oasis/York style that many people run. Someone also makes a belt drive version that uses a 1/2HP 12V motor and a belt drive to a regular flywheel piston head like a shop compressor would have. Maybe there are more options available today but at the time, to get a reliable continuous duty long life compressor, Thomas was the best option.

You could also build a belt drive setup.
https://www.compressorworld.com/jenn...si-f-pump.html
https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...p75-1m18?gclid

I also tried running a power inverter and a 120V oil less compressor but the power inverter I had died so I gave up on that route.

The Hummer runs the smaller version that you might be able to find surplus but they will probably be 24V. Mine has a industry standard 56C 12 volt permanent magnet motor. If you found a 24V pump head you could always put it on a 12V surplus motor.

The biggest ARB looks more affordable and has high amps so it must do some work. The heads and motors are smaller so I could see them wearing out faster than a larger slower rpm unit.

Oh yeah, I forgot that the previous buggy had much higher air demand than the average rig. It makes sense to drop the $1k or so on a one-time investment that can be easily rebuilt instead of burning up $250-500 per year in cheaper and louder compressors. Air systems are a tough call because there are tradeoffs for all of the options.

Are you running a tank on this buggy? Will this be for lockers and tires, or anything else?
 
Most of the air will be used for the air horns, air cannons, then followed by blowing dust off of things, airing up will be minimal unless there is a leak, running impacts and maybe a die grinder back at camp as I don't want to haul extra tools around.

Thomas TASKAIR E Series 1/2HP
TA-5102E
Oil Less
Permanently lubricated and sealed bearings
Cast iron cylinder
SS valves
Teflon rings and skirts
Service free
Field rebuildable
Totally enclosed motor
Low vibration
Single point intake
Quiet operation
Resistant to dust and water

Thomas
3.35CFM at 0 PSI
2.72 at 25
2.25 at 50
1.50 at 100 at 45A at 12V
1.35 at 125
1.25 at 150, I am not sure what the running Amps are at 150 but I believe they are around 70 based on calculations
230A starting current locked rotor at full pressure

The ARB is showing
6.16 CFM at 0 PSI at 29A at 12V
4.68 CFM at 29 PSI at 50.4A at 12V
? CFM at 150PSI at 68.6A at 12V
Others list it as 3 CFM at 90 PSI at 56A at 12V

VIAR 480 12V
1.67 at 30 PSI at 17A
1.47 at 90 PSI at 28A
.95 at 150 PSI at 27A

VIAR 420 12V
2.12 at 30 PSI at 23A
1.30 at 90 PSI at 22A
.97 at 150 PSI at 22A

PUMA 12V
2.0 at 40 PSI
1.36 at 90 PSI at 46A

OASIS 12V
8.0 at 90 PSI at 180A

120V 1HP California Air Tools compressor
2.20 at 90 PSI at 8.5A
3.10 at 40 PSI

120V 1HP Rollair
2.40 at 90 PSI at 7.5A
3.80 at 40 PSI

If you look at the power input VS CFM the ARB does not look possible comparable to other compressors. Their 4.68 claim is almost double of others.
That means they are space age efficient which doesn't sound right given the noise comments and price point. Or they are not sustainable running at those performance levels meaning they will wear and drop performance quickly. Or their numbers are inflated.
Keep in mind that Thomas is an industrial supplier with mil spec products that have guaranteed ratings vs recreational or aftermarket specifications.
 
CV driveline build.
I first planned to run a single U joint at the 205 case to keep cost down as many others have done. In order to keep vibration down the U joint at the case has to be within a few degrees. So I first clock the case down as low as possible so that the mid joint would not be too high because the mid shift had to run uphill. This still ended up with a tight bend at the mid joint even for a 1410. So I searched and found a used junkyard eBay 1410 CV that I could rebuild into what I needed. The mid shaft bearing is 1-7/16 stainless two bolt tap base and the stub shaft is a very common Spicer unit used on the super duties and others and mates with a Dana 60 pinion yoke. It did require being turned down for the 2.5" .120 wall tube and the 1-7/16" bearing. With the CV, the case can now be clocked as high as possible and the mid shaft ran downhill to lessen the mid joint angle. This also puts the pinion and mid shaft near parallel which cancels out the joints for less vibration. The dog bone looking piece is the the poly bushing housing that will bolt up to the tap base bearing and be welded to the subframe. The poly bushings will offer some give with frame flex and dampen U joint vibration.

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After moving the fuel cell to the rear and having the left over room in the front I was never happy with how it looked and the waste of space. So I decided to rework it to get the winch down low and tighter to the engine for better center of gravity. Doing this also made it easier to mount more lights and have them protected from getting side swiped against the rocks.

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is that a dodge 1410 CV? as i need to the same for my build as the tcase flange is pointed up
 
is that a dodge 1410 CV? as i need to the same for my build as the tcase flange is pointed up

https://torqueking.com/product/52112...3-up-ram-4x4s/

If you don't mind rust, you can find junkyard ones for pretty cheap and rework them, that is what I did. I need to find some more for spares. I had to buy two to find one that wasn't rusted out, downside to online used parts. My front and rear shafts use the slip yoke and sleeve from that unit. The yoke and male spline is solid and does not have the female sleeve so it is stronger than the normal way of having the yoke turn into the female sleeve which have been known to crack and the reason why they switched. The female sleeve is cut off the old driveline and turned down to 2" pilot so 2.5" OD x .25" wall DOM can be used for the new tube. Stock tube is 2.5" OD x .120 wall.
That CV has the 1350 and 1410 square bolt pattern with a big pilot and just smaller than 1/2" bolt holes. I used the WFO Concepts 205 flange which has a pilot too small to use. I opened up the holes on the CV to clear the 1/2" bolt. If I cared enough I could make a spacer to hub centric locate the CV on the flange pilot. But the bolt holes were drilled out tight so there is no slope and the CV bolts up tight and centered.
 
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https://torqueking.com/product/52112...3-up-ram-4x4s/

If you don't mind rust, you can find junkyard ones for pretty cheap and rework them, that is what I did. I need to find some more for spares. I had to buy two to find one that wasn't rusted out, downside to online used parts. My front and rear shafts use the slip yoke and sleeve from that unit. The yoke and male spline is solid and does not have the female sleeve so it is stronger than the normal way of having the yoke turn into the female sleeve which have been known to crack and the reason why they switched. The female sleeve is cut off the old driveline and turned down to 2" pilot so 2.5" OD x .25" wall DOM can be used for the new tube. Stock tube is 2.5" OD x .120 wall.
That CV has the 1350 and 1410 square bolt pattern with a big pilot and just smaller than 1/2" bolt holes. I used the WFO Concepts 205 flange which has a pilot too small to use. I opened up the holes on the CV to clear the 1/2" bolt. If I cared enough I could make a spacer to hub centric locate the CV on the flange pilot. But the bolt holes were drilled out tight so there is no slope and the CV bolts up tight and centered.

How rusty do you consider too rusty? Because even in places they salt the shit out of the roads it's pretty rare to have yokes that are too rusty to use (unless you fuck them up getting the caps out).
 
How rusty do you consider too rusty? Because even in places they salt the shit out of the roads it's pretty rare to have yokes that are too rusty to use (unless you fuck them up getting the caps out).

I got the first rusted one apart but the CV ball seal was tore up and the U joint seals were worn out. The clips were mangled. The second one I was able to wire wheel, scotchbrite, and clean up things and reuse everything. By the time I found new odd seals, clips, and u joints and cleaned up and painted the first one, there was not as much value. For a spare sure. But not something I would put on a new build that I want to last for years. I want to maintain and restore all the parts to like new condition before they go on as opposed to delaying maintenance to a later date or creating wear and or corrosion due to not being maintained.
 
Hopefully this is the correct direction for the inner seals? The newer version inner seals had mixed comments on which direction they go. I kept the lip springs towards the liquid side as well as the flared shaft lip toward the C side.
Rather than buy a installer, I used some 1" all thread, nuts, and washers than fit the seals well. I had all these parts left over from fixturing the bushing sleeves on the A-arms from the last buggy. I used a smaller washer that dropped inside the rubber lip and stayed centered but still pushed on the metal underneath it. Then backed that washer with a bigger one so it would bottom out on the tube so the depth would be uniform and not too deep. I had to wrench on the nuts with reasonable force to get them to move so I can understand why lesser tools or too small of all thread will not work or bend and allow the seals to cant.
Last picture is to show the tubes are still straight after welding the truss and link mounts on. Maybe the picture does not show it well but looking through the tubes I can see that they are true.
I also cleaned the inside of the tubes with a 1/8" TIG rod with a curled end and some shop towels as a patch much like cleaning a gun barrel or in this size a cannon. Put the rod in a drill and it was easy.

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Neat idea on the seal install. Looks easy in that pic, but I suppose it was a handful till you got it snugged up .
 
Rigid Industries LED Beam Patterns

My obsession with light started when I was little, I was that kid shining the light in everyone's eyes. I don't think anyone grows out of it, they just get brighter lights as technology progresses.
I was on the hunt for an LED sponsor at SEMA 2010 when LED was starting to go mainstream. That is where I met the owners/partners of Rigid which had a small booth in one of the lower cost areas and a few people working. At that time they only had double row bars and the Dually pod. They gave me a bunch of pods and I bolted them on the buggy that night at the show. Security even stopped by because they thought I was a tweeker stealing lights after hours.
Fast forward 12 years and LED technology has come a long way. Power, beam options, uniformity, tint, color rendition index, form factor have all improved over the original options back in the day. Rigid went from being one of the pioneers, then had a slow streak when others were coming out with more options while Rigid was slow to react, then Rigid was purchased by Penske and dumped everything into R&D and now Rigid almost has too many options to choose from. Much like Taco Bell that reconfigures the key ingredients over and over again, LED emitters, lens, and optics can be Lego'd into a number of different options. Due to marketing and sales numbers many options are not available for sale. That does not mean they are not good options, they just don't fit the market or are misunderstood. My kids are pissed Taco Bell discontinued the Mexican Pizza by the way.
I have been planning light beams for the new buggy for a while now. Many are Lego options to get the beam profiles in the forms I wanted. Listed below are some of the lights I will be using as well as some of the before options to see the difference.
The SAE lens was designed for spreading the beam super wide for fog light use and was also designed to be used in front of the Hyperspot optic which has a sharp cutoff with a super long range throw. Together you get a wide beam with a sharp cutoff that does not waste or blind oncoming traffic, it also conserves light by not letting it spill up or down.
Putting the SAE lens in front of the Driving beam makes it a wider beam and evens out the narrow shape that the driving beam creates under and over the main beam profile.
The SAE Selective Yellow normally only comes in the Legacy emitter which is the older emitter at a lower power and less desirable tint and color rendition index. By using PRO emitters the output is brighter and has better color and the beam gets a little taller since it is less focused but it still has the sharp cut off and long range.
The Hyperspot normally only comes in the Legacy emitter just like the SAE. So by switching to PRO the power goes way up as well as the range.
The plan is to run:
2 QTY Q SAE Driving in the front near the winch for general headlight use which will give super wide fill and good mid range.
1 QTY Q PRO Spot in the front near the winch for general headlight use which will give longer range fill straight ahead.
2 QTY DXL PRO SAE Selective Yellow in the front near the winch for dust, fog, and rain conditions when glare is created by too much white light.
2 QTY SR 10" PRO Hyperspot up at the roof line for super long range which will have a sharp cut off to keep light off the hood and surrounding dust to reduce glare. The hot spot of the hyperspot is so intense it is hard for the camera to pick over that long of a range, but the part to notice is how you can see the outline of the tress all the way at the end. The human eye doesn't have the issue of over exposure and can use the light at max distance without being blinded. That being said, having the Hyperspots up high helps to reduce the chance that all that beam will hit a hill face or whoop and bounce back at the drivers eyes.
The large trees at the end is 1,100 FT or 367 Yards away
At 75MPH = 110 FT/Sec = 10 seconds to react to what you see at 1,100 FT away

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That's some good tech. That 10" is pretty wild. When you say "SAE", does that mean it is a legal high or low beam?
 
That's some good tech. That 10" is pretty wild. When you say "SAE", does that mean it is a legal high or low beam?

SAE/DOT means that the combo of the annular lens and hyperspot optic are designed to meet the requirement for beam cutoff for road use. The optic creates a 5 degree beam with a sharp cut off. The annular lens widens the beam from 5 degrees to 45 degrees. Putting the SAE annular lens on a driving beam optic does not make it compliant. The SAE lens and optic does not correlate to power as they are offered in anywhere from 2 emitters to 16 emitters all with the same beam profile.
 
Someone asked for front driveline angles so here they are. Sorry for the iPotato screen shots. The lower numbers are ride height and the higher numbers are full droop. All joints are 1410 including the CV. I am currently fabricating the mount. It uses polyurethane and tube sleeves that bolt onto a tap base spherical ball bearing.

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Need some input on roof lines. Originally the front A pillar was 48" CC of tube. The middle B pillar width was 48" CC of tube. The rear C pillar was 42" CC of tube. Most roof widths are always parallel from A to B and many taper from B to C.
I didn't see why the extra width was needed in the front A as it is further away from the head area which is located nearer to the B pillar width. The reason for doing this is to keep the A pillar corner out of the rocks, much the same reason that everyone tapers the rear at the C pillar. I narrowed the A pillar to 42" CC of tube.
So questions is do I hit the NO GO BACK button or is this a good upgrade.
EDIT: Before and after. I also extended the front of the roof line 2" further forward in response to the sun and rain comments.

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the only reason i can think of is in the weather you get water dripping in the cab.
 
it certainly looks neat like that, but i'd rather have it be the same width. it doesn't cost you anything, you will get stuck at the A or B pillar either way or whatever your max width is, but it does give you a touch more room inside, or at least it will feel that way.

it's up to you, but i'll take a touch more room over looks in something like that
 
How much extra sun and rain do you want to keep off you? That's the only reason I can think of to keeping it wider.
 
Doesn't look like you pulled it in enough to be an issue, but is the A-pillar blocking your view any more than it was before?
 
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