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Dust Buggy

mobil1syn said:
stuff a piece of foam in there. keeps the rocks out and is easy enough to pull out for cleaning.
Click to expand...

This would definitely work. It would eliminate some surface area cooling of the oil pan but would keep the rocks out. I am just guessing the ones that have rocks get caught are due to having pans and skids at angles where the rocks get wedged in tighter rather than fall out. My pan skid will be parallel with the pan which both are at an angle so the rocks should be able to fall out. With an aluminum pan I wouldn't chance it, but with a steel pan, I think the cooling is worth keeping it open.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
This would definitely work. It would eliminate some surface area cooling of the oil pan but would keep the rocks out. I am just guessing the ones that have rocks get caught are due to having pans and skids at angles where the rocks get wedged in tighter rather than fall out. My pan skid will be parallel with the pan which both are at an angle so the rocks should be able to fall out. With an aluminum pan I wouldn't chance it, but with a steel pan, I think the cooling is worth keeping it open.
Click to expand...

my experience is that the rocks get in there, hang out and then you come down on something. skid flexes, single point load on the pan via a rock and then we got exxon valdez.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Had someone ask:
What do you do when building link mounts to ensure that the joints go back in easily after welding, paint or powder coating?

In the past i've ended up with link mounts that once welded and coated the joints no longer fit into easily. So i've had to lightly grind the coating off or reduce the joint width slightly.

So on my current build I was thinking i'd install a .010 shim. Weld everything up. Remove the shim, paint and then reinstall the joints without the shims during assembly. My though is that any extra space in the mount would very easily be sucked up my tightening the bolt.

Am I on the right track? is there a better way?


I am dealing with this right now on the IBEX subframe. I welded out with a spare set of link balls in place and it got hammer tight to remove some of them. The link pockets are so strong that they will not deform and open up. Some I cold get a porta power expanding jaw to open them up some. Other would not move or spring right back. In the past I have also used a short bolt and fine thread nut as a jack in the pocket to push them open. I will probably need to do the same again, with a bigger bolt and some anti seize to get some more force. Adding a shim would have been a good idea and prevented this hassle. A thin washer around .03 would have been good. Even a .6 would have been good as it would shrink down .03 and leave .03 gap that the bolt would pinch down with no issue.
Click to expand...

Put a piece of .030 mig wire in-between the spacer and one side of the link bracket.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
What material foam do you use? Something coarse and that drains and doesn't break down.
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i think it was just standard seat foam from the local craft store. got pulled out, washed and dried after trips. you might be able to use some fuel cell foam, since they would drain water pretty easy.

HELL BOUND said:
Put a piece of .030 mig wire in-between the spacer and one side of the link bracket.
Click to expand...

i saw a guy on the IG that uses some sort of board for the spacing. same one he uses for his CAD stuff. ive used shock shims before but they gal things on the way out.
 
Buggy is looking great!

Do you have any concerns with the MAF being just after a sudden change in cross-sectional area?
I've heard of issues before when MAF was not placed in a continuous length of tube.
 
michael.gonzalez said:
Buggy is looking great!

Do you have any concerns with the MAF being just after a sudden change in cross-sectional area?
I've heard of issues before when MAF was not placed in a continuous length of tube.
Click to expand...

The only info I could find was to have a minimum 4" before and after the meter and that a cobra head or sharp 90* can turbulate the air. Going from the full 4" tube to the 3.5 or 3.75"? was an instant performance change. 208 Motorsports aka Propertuning went for a ride with that motor and he said it sounded great.
 
I am looking forward to the rest of this build.

I haven't been following super closely. Any chance this will be at KOH this year to drool over?
 
bdkw1 said:
You peasants need to get lathes and make aluminum spacers. Warm them up a little before welding. When everything cools they drop out.
Click to expand...

I've done that, heck even just some scrap tube slightly oversized works well, toss in a bolt and it will hold the faces flat. beat out if needed, but it doesn't take much so that a joint goes back in.

also heavy cardstock from a beer box on one side of the joint also works out really well and doesn't really burn much.
 
I got a set of spacers for typical rod and and shock widths from Goatbuilt when I built my Ibex. If I recall they are about .030 wider that the joint width. Have worked great.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Until I got it, I didn’t know how the air shifter worked. The fork has a sliding piston that slides in the diff cover which acts as the bore. The air fitting directly connects to the cover. It is a very simple design and less parts to fail. The cover is super thick, I don’t see it denting or flexing to cause a binding issue.
The locking collar is spring held open and air pulls the teeth together. They have a wedge shape so once engaged they pull themselves together and will not open under load.

For now I put on a short push to connect fitting and a hose clamp with the 1/4” air brake line routed up. It looks like it is out of the way and if the hose gets pinched or ripped off it’s easy enough to put a new piece of tube on. I might make a two bolt bridge that covers the air fitting so if I back into something it can not crush the air fitting. Even if it does, OX makes a bolt that replaces the air fitting and pushes the fork into the locked location. These are all small parts that can be carried on the buggy to eliminate the inconvenience of loosing air both by a line or by compressor. Neither ARB or Yukon have that ability.
Click to expand...

nOOB question regarding the 'magic bolt':

Could one use a blank bolt when not wanting the diff locked; and then install said magic bolt when locked diff is wanted?


The idea is to eliminate the cable/electric/and air actuators.
 
CDA 455 II said:
nOOB question regarding the 'magic bolt':

Could one use a blank bolt when not wanting the diff locked; and then install said magic bolt when locked diff is wanted?


The idea is to eliminate the cable/electric/and air actuators.
Click to expand...

Yeah. But do you really wan to crawl under the vehicle to lock the diff?
 
CDA 455 II said:
nOOB question regarding the 'magic bolt':

Could one use a blank bolt when not wanting the diff locked; and then install said magic bolt when locked diff is wanted?


The idea is to eliminate the cable/electric/and air actuators.
Click to expand...

The piston/bore in the cover is single acting. It does not need air to unlock. It would not know if it was air or the bolt pushing on it. I'm sure someone could make a small detented lever on the axle to manually engage and disengage the locker.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Had someone ask:
What do you do when building link mounts to ensure that the joints go back in easily after welding, paint or powder coating?

In the past i've ended up with link mounts that once welded and coated the joints no longer fit into easily. So i've had to lightly grind the coating off or reduce the joint width slightly.

So on my current build I was thinking i'd install a .010 shim. Weld everything up. Remove the shim, paint and then reinstall the joints without the shims during assembly. My though is that any extra space in the mount would very easily be sucked up my tightening the bolt.

Am I on the right track? is there a better way?


I am dealing with this right now on the IBEX subframe. I welded out with a spare set of link balls in place and it got hammer tight to remove some of them. The link pockets are so strong that they will not deform and open up. Some I cold get a porta power expanding jaw to open them up some. Other would not move or spring right back. In the past I have also used a short bolt and fine thread nut as a jack in the pocket to push them open. I will probably need to do the same again, with a bigger bolt and some anti seize to get some more force. Adding a shim would have been a good idea and prevented this hassle. A thin washer around .03 would have been good. Even a .6 would have been good as it would shrink down .03 and leave .03 gap that the bolt would pinch down with no issue.
Click to expand...

I have some thin copper sheet cut into C type shapes. I slide in one of these and bolt each side together against the heim before welding to the housing or chassis.
 
Regarding shimming brackets for welding, if one of my spacers isn't right for the application I will use some of that thin cardboard like found on a filter box or beer box and use a ball pein to punch a hole using the bracket as the die and cut/tear it to fit as a quick disposable shim. Seems to be the right thickness and quick and easy.
 
Started floor plates. The radiator lines run in a bolt down aluminum U channel. The driver side also has the tray in the rear for electrical.
I went with tread plate at the driver and passenger feet to make getting in and out a little easier the rest of the plates are smooth so gear can sit on it and not get chewed up.
For tab mounting, I used a piece of 1” square tube with holes from Home Depot. Can put the tab every 1” and line up flush with the tubes.

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CDA 455 II said:
nOOB question regarding the 'magic bolt':

Could one use a blank bolt when not wanting the diff locked; and then install said magic bolt when locked diff is wanted?


The idea is to eliminate the cable/electric/and air actuators.
Click to expand...

HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The piston/bore in the cover is single acting. It does not need air to unlock. It would not know if it was air or the bolt pushing on it. I'm sure someone could make a small detented lever on the axle to manually engage and disengage the locker.
Click to expand...


Can I safely assume if I remove the spring I would have the 'blank bolt' I was referring to?

The 'Drive Away Lock' (magic bolt):

amc-20.png
 
CDA 455 II said:
Can I safely assume if I remove the spring I would have the 'blank bolt' I was referring to?

The 'Drive Away Lock' (magic bolt):

Click to expand...

The spring allows the bolt to be installed with the carrier unclocked, once it rotates and aligns the teeth, the spring will push into position. Without some sort of give you would have to mesh the gears while trying to thread in the bolt in. If a tire was in the air then it might not be that bad.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The spring allows the bolt to be installed with the carrier unclocked, once it rotates and aligns the teeth, the spring will push into position. Without some sort of give you would have to mesh the gears while trying to thread in the bolt in. If a tire was in the air then it might not be that bad.
Click to expand...

I think he's asking if he were to install just the bolt without the spring, to seal the hole, if it would stay in the open diff mode. Leave the spring in the glovebox til you want it locked, then take the bolt out, throw the spring in place, and reinstall.
 
vetteboy79 said:
I think he's asking if he were to install just the bolt without the spring, to seal the hole, if it would stay in the open diff mode. Leave the spring in the glovebox til you want it locked, then take the bolt out, throw the spring in place, and reinstall.
Click to expand...

Yes the locker is spring loaded to open and disengage if nothing is holding the shift fork from retracting.
I do not have the magic bolt yet. It looks like the bolt body has a smaller set screw that pushes the spring and a jam nut to set it. It might have enough travel to back out to disengage and turn in to engage without removing the whole thing.
 
Thomas 12V 3/4HP dual piston air compressor is installed. Went round and round trying to find a spot where it would fit. Dropping it in an open area would be too easy and not leave room for cargo. Finally filled a dead spot behind the seat where the compressor will be safe and out of the way.
The rubber vibration dampeners and dual piston and low rpm make for a quiet compressor which isn't much louder than the idle of the motor. On the old buggy I had to reach over and touch it to make sure it was running or not running when checking the pressure switch.
I loath panel work. It is not fun at all. I planned for panels when designing the chassis so all the panels can be simple flat pieces. Most of them are 1/8" aluminum with 1/4" threaded nut insert trick tabs. The 1/4" SS bolts are hurricane bolts with large diameter thin heads with flat and Philips head. The floor in the front is 3/16" tread plate with 3/8" trick tabs and button head screws. I picked up a 6.5" aluminum carbide blade for my cordless saw and run a aluminum wax lube and it cuts like butter but is super loud and throws hot chips everywhere. Cut finish is perfect as long as I used a straight edge guide.

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