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DRIVESHAFT TECH IN CHIT CHAT WANTS: 74'' 7K RPM

arse_sidewards said:
This. Textbook engineers love electric fans because they can turn them off and throttle them and other shit like that they've been indoctrinated to value.

mechanical fan go brrrrr.......
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He’s trying to go 150+ miles an hour. What the hell does he need a fan for except the cool down at the pits between races?
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Street cars vs race cars. Hold one of those street cars WFO around a track for a few minutes and get back to me on how well those electric fans cool the engine.
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But that's not what op is doing. He's holding it wide open for a mile.

Also, I ain't seen no mechanical fan on no naaaaascaaaars lately.
 
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[486] said:
I've been using half gallon apple juice bottles, they don't break
the caps wear out eventually but you can replace them with caps from the small bottles of arizona iced tea
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There's some standards for "big coarse threads in plastic" that al that shit conforms to for the most part, oil caps, gas cans, shit like that too.

I've never been able to find a comprehensive about what the various thread-form standards are and which ones lend themselves to which applications.
 
All the import track day car shit uses electric fans even though it would be stupid simply (and much cheaper) to slap a mechanical fan on a Subaru or a RWD Nissan. Not sure why that is.

Frankly, I don't think it matters as long as you got the CFMs you need and that's gonna be cheaper with mechanical.

I think that electric fans likely do a better job making up for shitty shrouding and ducting in front of the radiator because they typically have a really good fitting shroud, much better than a mechanical fan that has to move with the engine could ever hope to have. Not sure how much that matters at 100mph.
 
in typical (p)irate fashion this thread has devolved from looking for a drive shaft vendor.................

to the merits of:

electric vs mechanical fans

1 piece vs 2 piece driveshafts

aluminum vs carbon fiber shafts

short vs long beds

3.73 vs 3.08 gears

aux cooler or rad cooler for transmission

ring gap (for any build)

and lastly......water bottle lid thread count.

:lmao:

awesome
 
[486] said:
I've been using half gallon apple juice bottles, they don't break
the caps wear out eventually but you can replace them with caps from the small bottles of arizona iced tea
Click to expand...
I like something that doesnt sweat all over my desk, think insulated like those fancy yeti cups but for the poors. or at least the poors who'd rather spend that money on nice pistons vs fancy water bottles. :laughing:
[486] said:
Did you set it at that, or did you use that as an absolute minimum?
as said, every time I toss a feeler gauge to them when tossing together another shit pile, it's got quite a bit of rattle room, like 1.5-2x that
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I aimed to set them at .026+/-(ish) which is 6.5. they all landed a little looser than that, probably x7 or .028''. (top ring)

they were not 1.5-2x though. closer to spec.
 
xr-nut said:
in typical (p)irate fashion this thread has devolved from looking for a drive shaft vendor.................

to the merits of:

electric vs mechanical fans

1 piece vs 2 piece driveshafts

aluminum vs carbon fiber shafts

short vs long beds

3.73 vs 3.08 gears

aux cooler or rad cooler for transmission

ring gap (for any build)

and lastly......water bottle lid thread count.

:lmao:

awesome
Click to expand...

And all that in 5 pages. :smokin:





:flipoff2:
 
xr-nut said:
in typical (p)irate fashion this thread has devolved from looking for a drive shaft vendor.................

to the merits of:

electric vs mechanical fans

1 piece vs 2 piece driveshafts

aluminum vs carbon fiber shafts

short vs long beds

3.73 vs 3.08 gears

aux cooler or rad cooler for transmission

ring gap (for any build)

and lastly......water bottle lid thread count.

:lmao:

awesome
Click to expand...
Don't forget the compulsory euro-trash fluffing..... :lmao:
 
xr-nut said:
in typical (p)irate fashion this thread has devolved from looking for a drive shaft vendor.................

to the merits of:

electric vs mechanical fans

1 piece vs 2 piece driveshafts

aluminum vs carbon fiber shafts

short vs long beds

3.73 vs 3.08 gears

aux cooler or rad cooler for transmission

ring gap (for any build)

and lastly......water bottle lid thread count.

:lmao:

awesome
Click to expand...
Can the mods merge this thread and your build thread?
 
xr-nut said:
I like something that doesnt sweat all over my desk, think insulated like those fancy yeti cups but for the poors. or at least the poors who'd rather spend that money on nice pistons vs fancy water bottles. :laughing:
Click to expand...

We buy ours from Rtic. They are high quality, it keeps ice forever even here in the Texas heat and the price is pretty damn good. We have a bunch of them
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Ask about driveshafts and end up with insulated cup advice. See how awesome this place is!

:lmao:
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since we're diverging off, have any advice for a mig lead?


I have a miller 212 machine and the lead has been shit since new. I just pulled the wiring out of it. so I need something better.

edit- i think the local weld shop recommended tweco? is that good stuff?
 
xr-nut said:
why wouldnt one change the shroud? I mean it comes with the fans attached from flexilite? I think the mishimoto rad is likely the biggest improvement to the cooling. that thing is massive compared to the stocker. I havent run the mech fan since holdner showed on youtubes that its good for 15 or 20 numbers. :laughing:

honestly, I wish Id have just bought a c5 car. or kept the c6Z that i sold here. instead I just have to be different and build a long bed truck. :shaking:

yep. but they're doing it wrong, mech fans are the bestest. :laughing:

fuck if i know the answer. lets ask @486......?????:flipoff2:
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I'm saying the stock shroud wasn't sealed very well... :laughing:

Mechanical fans move a ton more air and cool better. Cars put very little load on the cooling system since they're lighter and not pulling heavy loads.

I assumed since you talked about street driving it and getting hot, that it was getting hot in traffic. Not going 150mph.
 
Chevy_man said:
I'm saying the stock shroud wasn't sealed very well... :laughing:

Mechanical fans move a ton more air and cool better. Cars put very little load on the cooling system since they're lighter and not pulling heavy loads.

I assumed since you talked about street driving it and getting hot, that it was getting hot in traffic. Not going 150mph.
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Yes it was getting hot street driving, parade duty. It is muuuuuuuch better now with this fan and rad combo. the stock parts werent cutting it
 
xr-nut said:
Im down for the merge. whatever. :laughing:
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I was more just suggesting it because of the "this is how irate goes" comments. Wasn't there a big thread merge controversy not long ago?


xr-nut said:
since we're diverging off, have any advice for a mig lead?


I have a miller 212 machine and the lead has been shit since new. I just pulled the wiring out of it. so I need something better.

edit- i think the local weld shop recommended tweco? is that good stuff?
Click to expand...
I've always hear tweco is good, but I'm not a pro welder....
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Street cars vs race cars. Hold one of those street cars WFO around a track for a few minutes and get back to me on how well those electric fans cool the engine.
Click to expand...
The latest batch of GT3 and GT4's seem to handle 500 hp plus for races as long as 24 hrs and I cannot tell you the last time I saw a mechanical fan in a GT car.
 
xr-nut said:
I have a miller 212 machine and the lead has been shit since new. I just pulled the wiring out of it. so I need something better.

edit- i think the local weld shop recommended tweco? is that good stuff?
Click to expand...

Lotta folks run tweco stuff. My sales guy talked me into a bernard setup. I'm pretty happy with that too
 
xr-nut said:
since we're diverging off, have any advice for a mig lead?


I have a miller 212 machine and the lead has been shit since new. I just pulled the wiring out of it. so I need something better.

edit- i think the local weld shop recommended tweco? is that good stuff?
Click to expand...
Bernard > tweco
 
xr-nut said:
Yes it was getting hot street driving, parade duty. It is muuuuuuuch better now with this fan and rad combo. the stock parts werent cutting it
Click to expand...

Clutch was most likely shot. Every one of my trucks has needed one, and I never knew it until I pulled something and had it get warmer than normal.

XtremeJ said:
The latest batch of GT3 and GT4's seem to handle 500 hp plus for races as long as 24 hrs and I cannot tell you the last time I saw a mechanical fan in a GT car.
Click to expand...

They don't have to stay cool on the street. They get plenty of air. They design everything around moving air through the coolers on it's own, not relying on the fans. Also guessing they get a hell of a lot more cooling capacity than the standard street car.:laughing:
 
I propose you to buy this OP's ring & pinions, (buy both, so you have a spare, and don't think we can buy them new anymore).

irate4x4.com

diff gear?

what would you say would be a good gear for a 84 k10, sbc, sm465, np205 with 33" tires? This is my hunting rig but sees the road alot going to and from the club. currently has a 2.56. I currently have to start out in low gear. backing up it's best to put tc in low. only trailer I pull is a 4x8 4...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com

:flipoff2:
 
Chevy_man said:
They don't have to stay cool on the street. They get plenty of air. They design everything around moving air through the coolers on it's own, not relying on the fans. Also guessing they get a hell of a lot more cooling capacity than the standard street car.:laughing:
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I bet the electric fans don't run when the car is moving at race speeds because the fan isn't going to pull more cfm through the radiator than what's being shoved into it. The fan would create a blockage so to speak and cooling would suffer some.
 
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