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DRIVESHAFT TECH IN CHIT CHAT WANTS: 74'' 7K RPM

xr-nut said:
sent request for custom drive shaft to DSS. guy on phone said "ya no problem"..... we'll wait and see. :laughing:
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SLOWPOKE693 said:
That is the only company that even entertained the thought of building a completely custom CF driveshaft for my SxS.
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I had a DSS carbon shaft in the Mustang for some time. It now has a DSS aluminum in it. Both are fine, street drove the carbon shaft quite a bit with no issues. More comfortable with the AL with all the weird rocks/pebbles/road debris here.
 
[486] said:
which is why you choose rear gears for crossing the line in the top of direct rather than OD
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It's a little more nuanced than that when you start talking about transmissions that have so many gears and so much overall spread you won't necessarily be using all of them on your way down the track.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You think if I called he'd say yes thinking that maybe there's more demand than he thinks? :laughing:
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Probably not. Dude was a dick about it. Could probably gather up a couple hundred Outback owners that are pissed off with all the Chinese garbage and want somebody to get serious. DSS claims they'll do custom, but refused my request for custom several times. Gave up.
 
[486] said:
update your sawmill thread
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I'll try to do a good update in the next couple of weeks

We haven't done more than maybe five small logs here and there in the last year and we've been terrible about busting out the camera for other projects. We've got a big stupid cherry, walnut, something like that, from some rich asshole's courtyard in Boston coming up. I'll try to take pictures of that.
 
87manche said:
They've broken me.
Though I think I'm gonna buy a Miata to replace my wagon, since nobody sells a wagon I'm interested in.
Well, I'd like an rs6, but I don't have rs6 monies.
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old allroad
big single turbo
 
[486] said:
old allroad
big single turbo
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Not just no, hell no.
If I wanted to punish myself with more mid 2000s German I'd find myself an e61.
Really liked my brother's. Shame it got killed by a Toyota pickup.
I'd rather roll the dice on n54 things than Audi V6 things.

I'm shopping mx5 rf's with the intention of putting a supercharger on the little 4 banger.
 
Projectjunkie said:
All you fuckers talking about 3rd gear and direct drive and overdrive are missing the point that the driveline doesn't care, it spins with ground speed/ tires/ gearing
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So tell me which has more extreme driveshaft rpm at 140mph; 3.08s in direct or 4.11s in overdrive?

Since the trucks a longbed with a 4l80 I'm assuming it's a 2500? What rear axle does it have in it? Semi float or full float? 6 or 8 lug?
 
Ranchtruck said:
So tell me which has more extreme driveshaft rpm at 140mph; 3.08s in direct or 4.11s in overdrive?
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411s will be spinning the driveshaft 33% faster than 308s regardless of what gear the tranny is in.

If he wants to slow down his drive line he needs highway gears in the rear end. Then he'd need to get that rolling with more hp or deeper lower gears in trans.

The driveline doesn't care what happens in the transmission to make it spin the 6500rpms or whatever the deeper diff gears need to go 150
 
Projectjunkie said:
411s will be spinning the driveshaft 33% faster than 308s regardless of what gear the tranny is in.
The driveline doesn't care what happens in the transmission to make it spin the 6500rpms or whatever the deeper diff gears need to go 150
Click to expand...
Yeah no shit, so if you look at the bigger picture a wiser goal would be to run in direct with a rear gear to make the speed than his original goal of "pulling long & hard in overdrive"

A 4l80 is not going to cook getting a truck off the line with a loose converter & 3.08 gears if it has any sort of a cooler on it. Leaning on it full power at 140mph in overdrive is more likely to tear something up.
 
Ranchtruck said:
Yeah no shit, so if you look at the bigger picture a wiser goal would be to run in direct with a rear gear to make the speed than his original goal of "pulling long & hard in overdrive"
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Just make the LS FWD and put it in the bed. No need for a long driveshaft. :laughing:

I still vote short bed or change the gearing.
 
Put a gear vendors behind it and shorten the shaft up to fit your needs, 700hp shouldn't be an issue, all the guys I've seen busting them were north of 1000hp, and most of them were using a transbrake as well, I had one behind a na 632 and a th400 and never had issues for several years, guy who bought my chevelle is still driving it around with no issues as far as I know.
 
Projectjunkie said:
All you fuckers talking about 3rd gear and direct drive and overdrive are missing the point that the driveline doesn't care, it spins with ground speed/ tires/ gearing


Also shortbed swap would be my 1st move
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If he stays in direct, he's at least limited by engine rpm.


Fuck a short bed. Useless. :flipoff2:

I only have 1 truck with a 1 piece shaft though. The others are all like 8' or more in 2 pieces. :grinpimp:


It's an 80 already, so toss a large cooler on it. Give it a 3600rpm stall and let her eat. Just lock it up in 3rd instead of using overdrive.


Overdrive does seem to break more shit inside transmissions than anything else. Almost like losing the mechanical advantage over the output is harder on internal parts:confused:
 
To slow the shaft down we need highway gears, 3.0ish, but it needs to hold the hp, so we can do 9" or d61 from an early cummins with 3.07, convert to semi float with your 6 lug pattern.

Now we need a little more ass to get this thing going, some nos or boost on the ol LS

Now with the bombproof 307 d61 and the 900hp, we need something with a lockup direct drive, deeper 1st, and something reliable. I'm thinking sm465
 
Projectjunkie said:
To slow the shaft down we need highway gears, 3.0ish, but it needs to hold the hp, so we can do 9" or d61 from an early cummins with 3.07, convert to semi float with your 6 lug pattern.

Now we need a little more ass to get this thing going, some nos or boost on the ol LS

Now with the bombproof 307 d61 and the 900hp, we need something with a lockup direct drive, deeper 1st, and something reliable. I'm thinking sm465
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Iirc he's already got a supercharger on it, isn't this the guy that blew it up recently?
 
Ranchtruck said:
So tell me which has more extreme driveshaft rpm at 140mph; 3.08s in direct or 4.11s in overdrive?

Since the trucks a longbed with a 4l80 I'm assuming it's a 2500? What rear axle does it have in it? Semi float or full float? 6 or 8 lug?
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2000 silverado 1500 rclb. factory 10 bolt with 3.73 gears. 6 b olt

123456.jpg


Projectjunkie said:
411s will be spinning the driveshaft 33% faster than 308s regardless of what gear the tranny is in.

If he wants to slow down his drive line he needs highway gears in the rear end. Then he'd need to get that rolling with more hp or deeper lower gears in trans.

The driveline doesn't care what happens in the transmission to make it spin the 6500rpms or whatever the deeper diff gears need to go 150
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this is the issue. during the mile shootout we'll be hard on the gas (flat on the floor) for a limited amount of time. plus....its not all that important, the results from that.

I do however drive north of 100-120 frequently and will be holding it there for the 60ish miles of the road race. where it is important to me.

hence the drive shaft drama.
Ranchtruck said:
Yeah no shit, so if you look at the bigger picture a wiser goal would be to run in direct with a rear gear to make the speed than his original goal of "pulling long & hard in overdrive"

A 4l80 is not going to cook getting a truck off the line with a loose converter & 3.08 gears if it has any sort of a cooler on it. Leaning on it full power at 140mph in overdrive is more likely to tear something up.
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4L80 manual shift, 3k stall. 3.73 gears in diff. 275/50r20 tires.
Chevy_man said:
If he stays in direct, he's at least limited by engine rpm.


Fuck a short bed. Useless. :flipoff2:

I only have 1 truck with a 1 piece shaft though. The others are all like 8' or more in 2 pieces. :grinpimp:


It's an 80 already, so toss a large cooler on it. Give it a 3600rpm stall and let her eat. Just lock it up in 3rd instead of using overdrive.


Overdrive does seem to break more shit inside transmissions than anything else. Almost like losing the mechanical advantage over the output is harder on internal parts:confused:
Click to expand...
3k stall and the largest cooler I can get in the front. does not run thru the rad first, just the cooler. also, just went to a maximoto rad and big flexalite fan set up. switched back to 180 tstat and it seems to be running much cooler now.
Ummduh said:
Iirc he's already got a supercharger on it, isn't this the guy that blew it up recently?
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yep thats me. :homer::lmao:
 
xr-nut said:
2000 silverado 1500 rclb. factory 10 bolt with 3.73 gears. 6 b olt

123456.jpg



this is the issue. during the mile shootout we'll be hard on the gas (flat on the floor) for a limited amount of time. plus....its not all that important, the results from that.

I do however drive north of 100-120 frequently and will be holding it there for the 60ish miles of the road race. where it is important to me.

hence the drive shaft drama.

4L80 manual shift, 3k stall. 3.73 gears in diff. 275/50r20 tires.

3k stall and the largest cooler I can get in the front. does not run thru the rad first, just the cooler. also, just went to a maximoto rad and big flexalite fan set up. switched back to 180 tstat and it seems to be running much cooler now.

yep thats me. :homer::lmao:
Click to expand...


If you have a heat exchanger for the radiator, it is more efficient to cool fluid to fluid first, and then the auxiliary. Ditch any thermostats for the transmission. (Mine run at 80-120* all winter long, doesn't hurt a thing being too cool).

Of course, you need enough radiator to dump the heat in the first place.

I tried running only an auxiliary cooler once and couldn't keep it under 190*. As soon as I routed it back through the radiator exchanger I had zero issues keeping it 150* or less.
 
Chevy_man said:
If you have a heat exchanger for the radiator, it is more efficient to cool fluid to fluid first, and then the auxiliary. Ditch any thermostats for the transmission. (Mine run at 80-120* all winter long, doesn't hurt a thing being too cool).

Of course, you need enough radiator to dump the heat in the first place.

I tried running only an auxiliary cooler once and couldn't keep it under 190*. As soon as I routed it back through the radiator exchanger I had zero issues keeping it 150* or less.
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I dont have a temp gauge on my transmission. I've meant to get that done, just too many other things.

I was having heat issues with an oe radiator/electricfan setup. tossed them right before i blew up the motor. I've had it out a couple times now, sitting in b2b traffic in topeka with the air on and it stayed at 200. +/-. So Im happier with that.

maybe ill look into routing the trans back through the rad.
 
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