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DRIVESHAFT TECH IN CHIT CHAT WANTS: 74'' 7K RPM

so the issue is the 6k rpm. In 3rd at 6k Im running 115ish. I need to get to 140 (tech speed) for the road race. sustained speed in the high teens to lows 20s. Im not mathing to see what the rpm is, but it has to be higher than 6k. waiting on call back from engineer at one of the shops mentioned above.

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or gears

he probably ain't getting much use outta first gear anyways

Gears and more tires is where I'm at with the ranger. I'm only like 56" but severely d-shaft limited. And double limited because if I go bigger than 4" it hits the gas tank.

So bringing the 3.73 down to 3.08/3.27 and going from a 26" to a 28" tire is the route I have to take for now.
 
Gears and more tires is where I'm at with the ranger. I'm only like 56" but severely d-shaft limited. And double limited because if I go bigger than 4" it hits the gas tank.
when I narrowed the rear for my ranger I went with two short side shafts, side benefit other than junkyard shafts is it offset the pinion away from the tank
 
Like the title says, looking for a long drive shaft that can handle 7k rpm or higher.

Car is a 2000 silverado long bed truck.

I have contacted one custom driveline shop, they told me I cannot build one for those numbers. If I want a 2-piece they will do that. They will build a 5'' aluminum at 74 3/4'' but say I am limited to 6k rpm.

Any leads for a different answer? :laughing:
shortbed swap?
 
For sure, I understand that. Maybe if I was running land speed 2 to 3 miles. But in just one mile......again, my thoughts are to pull harder to OD then longer and harder in OD. maybe I am thinking about it wrong.
The powerglide is still pretty popular in 1/4 mile drags and it's not because it has an overdrive...

I'd go the other direction with gearing like 486 suggested. Let it pull long & hard in direct and stay out of overdrive. A looser converter would let it get out of the hole the same with less gear in it.
 
can you shift the GV overdrive under power?

I assume it's not like a regular auto shifting. you'd have to lift and give it time to shift before getting back on the gas?
 
can you shift the GV overdrive under power?

I assume it's not like a regular auto shifting. you'd have to lift and give it time to shift before getting back on the gas?

I believe so? You can use them to split every gear on an auto, so if you couldn't shift under power that'd make it seem like that wouldn't work.

I never looked too far into it, out of my price range.
 
I believe so? You can use them to split every gear on an auto, so if you couldn't shift under power that'd make it seem like that wouldn't work.

I never looked too far into it, out of my price range.


Cleetus tried that with mullet and the little 427. He broke 2 of them before he talked to all the fast guys. They said "oh yeah, that's only for the street. They don't like very much power"...:laughing:
He got rid of it when he put in the smx and did a th400 with lockup.


I think the solution is a 4l80e and 3.08s. Better 1-2-3 gear split and a shorter overdrive at .75 vs .69.


Biggest thing is that using 3rd you can keep your driveshaft speed sane.
 
can you shift the GV overdrive under power?

I assume it's not like a regular auto shifting. you'd have to lift and give it time to shift before getting back on the gas?
why do you need to shift it if you're really just using it to shorten the driveshaft?

although, again, a 2-piece shaft would be cheaper.
 
shortbed swap?
believe it or not, was just sitting here contemplating doing that. damn long bed truck.:laughing:
The powerglide is still pretty popular in 1/4 mile drags and it's not because it has an overdrive...

I'd go the other direction with gearing like 486 suggested. Let it pull long & hard in direct and stay out of overdrive. A looser converter would let it get out of the hole the same with less gear in it.

or just actually using first instead of starting in second like tons of guys seem to love doing
I never start in 2nd. this 4l80 is shifted by me, not the ecm.
I think the solution is a 4l80e and 3.08s. Better 1-2-3 gear split and a shorter overdrive at .75 vs .69.
Biggest thing is that using 3rd you can keep your driveshaft speed sane.
I'd consider this option, but I dont want it to be dog slow off the line either. thats my hang up there.

It might just be the best though to keep the critical speed within reason.
 
interested. Running into a similar situation on my longbed IH restomod. Looking like I will have to go 2-piece as well. Debated chopping the bed and frame down since I wanted a shorty initially anyway, but the project is on hold for a year+ now anyway so I have time

I am hoping I can just get a front shaft/carrier bearing that'll work with the OEM Explorer rear shaft I grabbed when I grabbed the 8.8 rear. versus a whole 2-piece shaft

I won't be running 150mph in it though:laughing:
 
when I narrowed the rear for my ranger I went with two short side shafts, side benefit other than junkyard shafts is it offset the pinion away from the tank
Glad to know it worked out for someone else. I'm planning on doing that to save a few bucks. :laughing:
 
believe it or not, was just sitting here contemplating doing that. damn long bed truck.:laughing:



I never start in 2nd. this 4l80 is shifted by me, not the ecm.

I'd consider this option, but I dont want it to be dog slow off the line either. thats my hang up there.

It might just be the best though to keep the critical speed within reason.
That's where a higher stall converter comes in, the engines already up at peak torque when you start off the line so the gearing doesn't need to be as deep.
 
That's where a higher stall converter comes in, the engines already up at peak torque when you start off the line so the gearing doesn't need to be as deep.

A150 shot of nitrous off the line up into second gear would accomplish alot more than a higher stall would. Higher stall and highway gears will make excessive heat and cook that transmission trying to get the truck moving. Why do you think they use push cars at land speed events?
 
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