DRIVESHAFT TECH IN CHIT CHAT WANTS: 74'' 7K RPM

[MONSTERMUDDER]

I could only imagine what a shaft that long would be like when it let loose.

if it breaks at the top end of the drag strip it takes out the factory tank as it tries to exit thru the bedfloor

I know cause I was in the next pair and had to tow him back to the pits

 

[Chevy_man]

I dont have a temp gauge on my transmission. I've meant to get that done, just too many other things.

I was having heat issues with an oe radiator/electricfan setup. tossed them right before i blew up the motor. I've had it out a couple times now, sitting in b2b traffic in topeka with the air on and it stayed at 200. +/-. So Im happier with that.

maybe ill look into routing the trans back through the rad.

Electric fans suck. Grab the mechanical setup off a 2500 (water pump, clutch, fan, shroud).

There's a YouTube of testing electric fans, a few even made the claimed CFM. Then a mechanical fan at idle maxed the rig out at 10k, and they couldn't even test at any "driving around" rpm


Granted, it's rare that I see 100* day, but my truck rarely has the clutch even lock on my 2500. When it does it makes me wonder what the hell the noise is

 

[ApeEater]

I kept reading to find this. It answered my question.

I could only imagine what a shaft that long would be like when it let loose.

Mine was a front shaft on my U4 buggy. 48", 2" x .120wall tubing. Luckily it broke at the pinion end, and didn't drop the shaft pointed forward into the road.

It broke the SFI bell housing, STAK t-case, and mangled my floorboard pretty badly.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Electric fans suck. Grab the mechanical setup off a 2500 (water pump, clutch, fan, shroud).

There's a YouTube of testing electric fans, a few even made the claimed CFM. Then a mechanical fan at idle maxed the rig out at 10k, and they couldn't even test at any "driving around" rpm


Granted, it's rare that I see 100* day, but my truck rarely has the clutch even lock on my 2500. When it does it makes me wonder what the hell the noise is

This. Textbook engineers love electric fans because they can turn them off and throttle them and other shit like that they've been indoctrinated to value.

mechanical fan go brrrrr.......

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

This. Textbook engineers love electric fans because they can turn them off and throttle them and other shit like that they've been indoctrinated to value.

mechanical fan go brrrrr.......

Yup. We never ran electric fans on any of our circle track cars. The HP savings of running electric fans wasn't worth the diminished cooling capacity of them. Electric fans have their place but going fast with a conventional drivetrain and front mount radiator for any length of time (drag cars excluded) isn't one of them in my opinion.

My old Camaro had a mechanical fan on it because it didn't live its life a 1/4 mile at a time and I drove and raced the shit out of it. No shroud around it in that picture but one went on shortly after. Car never got hotter than 200° the whole time I owned it making 613hp at the wheels.

 

[xr-nut]

Im not changing back to mech fan. this flexi dual fan is rated for 5500 cfm. using the paper method in front of the: boost cooler, trans cooler, ac condensor and radiator, itll hold paper to it. mech fan wouldnt do that. plus the old oem electric fan wouldnt do it either. in fairness, it was 20ish years old.

plus there is already enough shit running off the only belt on the truck, including the supercharger.

it can be a debate for another thread, im just not changing back.

I did stick my gimpy finger it last saturday though.

 

[Ranchtruck]

2000 silverado 1500 rclb. factory 10 bolt with 3.73 gears. 6 b olt

I do however drive north of 100-120 frequently and will be holding it there for the 60ish miles of thr road race.

4L80 manual shift, 3k stall. 3.73 gears in diff. 275/50r20 tires.

3k stall and the largest cooler I can get in the front. does not run thru the rad first, just the cooler. also, just went to a maximoto rad and big flexalite fan set up. switched back to 180 tstat and it seems to be running much cooler now.

If it's a 10 bolt then a junkyard 308 axle is easily available and probably $250. Gu4 axle code. Avoid the gov-lok g80 version. Would be a cheap & easy way to test out how the truck does with that ratio. car-part.com is the junkyard database see if it turns up something local.

If you want a stronger setup the 9.5" semi-float 14 bolt out of a 1500hd would be good, but I think the 308 only came in the gmt400 with drum brakes but you could put the gears in a later disc brake housing.

Are you manually controlling converter lockup in the 4l80? What's controlling line pressure?

Running it through the radiator cooler definitely helps, the coolant in the lower tank is well below engine temp so there's a lot of cooling available there.

 

[[486]]

isn't this the guy that blew it up recently?

yeah specifically because he put a bunch of money into rebuilding the shit rather than gapping the rings with a death wheel and tossing it back together

 

[xr-nut]

If it's a 10 bolt then a junkyard 308 axle is easily available and probably $250. Gu4 axle code. Avoid the gov-lok g80 version. Would be a cheap & easy way to test out how the truck does with that ratio. car-part.com is the junkyard database see if it turns up something local.

If you want a stronger setup the 9.5" semi-float 14 bolt out of a 1500hd would be good, but I think the 308 only came in the gmt400 with drum brakes but you could put the gears in a later disc brake housing.

Are you manually controlling converter lockup in the 4l80? What's controlling line pressure?

Running it through the radiator cooler definitely helps, the coolant in the lower tank is well below engine temp so there's a lot of cooling availabl

I'm having action machine build the 2 piece shaft. That'll eliminate all of the debate on gear ratio, bed length, etc.

I think I'll live with the 373 gear. it's not just a mile truck, it gets road race too. Which is more important to me than a couple mph in the mile.

I ran it out tonight and at 5900 it's just a tick over 120mph in 3rd. That'll be good enough for the long road race, might ease into od a few times on the stretches. it'll be fine.

The transmission is manually shifted with a box from Jakes. Lock up is on a toggle.

 

[xr-nut]

yeah specifically because he put a bunch of money into rebuilding the shit rather than gapping the rings with a death wheel and tossing it back together

No. Shit cast pistons.

 

[[486]]

No. Shit cast pistons.

that are good for ridiculous power if you aren't a retard and can follow the lead of basically everyone before you
but nope, you go and throw even more money at it the second time
ETA: did you even wallow out the clearances to something reasonable for a forced induction build, or are you gonna trash those shiny aftermarket pistons and rods too?

Why even bother with 'the easy button' of maximally generic engines if you are going to insist on learning every lesson on your own dime anyways?

 

[xr-nut]

that are good for ridiculous power if you aren't a retard and can follow the lead of basically everyone before you
but nope, you go and throw even more money at it the second time
ETA: did you even wallow out the clearances to something reasonable for a forced induction build, or are you gonna trash those shiny aftermarket pistons and rods too?

Why even bother with 'the easy button' of maximally generic engines if you are going to insist on learning every lesson on your own dime anyways?

Tell me, smartest guy on the internet, what is the correct ring gap for my setup.

 

[[486]]

Tell me, smartest guy on the internet, what is the correct ring gap for my setup.

wide. as. fuck.

when I hone the cylinders out for a reasonable .002"/" piston/wall clearance the stock 200k mile rings usually open up to something that's good enough

"oh that's wore out you'll make it burn oil and it'll have blowby"
yeah but it won't rip ring lands off nor shatter the rings when you're making 200+ hp/liter

 

[xr-nut]

wide. as. fuck.

when I hone the cylinders out for a reasonable .002"/" piston/wall clearance the stock 200k mile rings usually open up to something that's good enough

"oh that's wore out you'll make it burn oil and it'll have blowby"
yeah but it won't rip ring lands off nor shatter the rings when you're making 200+ hp/liter

So there's not a number you can relate to those of us not as smart?

 

[[486]]

So there's not a number you can relate to those of us not as smart?

Are you this much of a woman all the time?

 

[xr-nut]

Are you this much of a woman all the time?

You jumped on my sack, just a few posts up. Remember, I'm the retard. Enlighten me dick head.

 

[[486]]

You jumped on my sack, just a few posts up. Remember, I'm the retard. Enlighten me dick head.

I pointed out that you're stapling your own dick to the wall a long while back but true to tradition on this board, you ignored all advice given. It's okay, I don't take it personal but you sure seem to.

Just for you I went and looked up some numbers from a really old build I did, it was .020" of top ring gap for a 3.14" bore, so that's like .0065 "/", get out a calculator and stick your bore size next to that figure
I do remember I didn't need to touch them at all, the feeler gauge had a good amount of rattle room in there just from opening the bore out to .004" of potential piston slap

 

[Ummduh]

I pointed out that you're stapling your own dick to the wall a long while back but true to tradition on this board, you ignored all advice given. It's okay, I don't take it personal but you sure seem to.

Just for you I went and looked up some numbers from a really old build I did, it was .020" of top ring gap for a 3.14" bore, so that's like .0065 "/", get out a calculator and stick your bore size next to that figure
I do remember I didn't need to touch them at all, the feeler gauge had a good amount of rattle room in there just from opening the bore out to .004" of potential piston slap

Remember the grenade from the turbo forums? Dude was putting around 1k hp to a stock SBC. When he tore it apart the top ring had gaps of 0.340".

Iirc he was making 8 sec passes l, and never blew it up. Just removed it cuz he was done with the adventure.

 

[Ranchtruck]

I'm having action machine build the 2 piece shaft. That'll eliminate all of the debate on gear ratio, bed length, etc.

I think I'll live with the 373 gear. it's not just a mile truck, it gets road race too. Which is more important to me than a couple mph in the mile.

I ran it out tonight and at 5900 it's just a tick over 120mph in 3rd. That'll be good enough for the long road race, might ease into od a few times on the stretches. it'll be fine.

The transmission is manually shifted with a box from Jakes. Lock up is on a toggle.

I looked at the Jake's manualizer box and they seem to say it just keeps the regulator at full line pressure. That's... not optimal. And $180 for that...?

 

[[486]]

Remember the grenade from the turbo forums? Dude was putting around 1k hp to a stock SBC. When he tore it apart the top ring had gaps of 0.340".

Iirc he was making 8 sec passes l, and never blew it up. Just removed it cuz he was done with the adventure.

11/32" is too much end gap lol

 

[Ummduh]

11/32" is too much end gap lol

Perhaps, but it was also an amazing reinforcement of the old "too much ring gap, only you will know; too little ring gap, everyone will know" saying

If you've never read the thread it's worth the 2 weeks it'll take to get through it lol

 

[xr-nut]

I pointed out that you're stapling your own dick to the wall a long while back but true to tradition on this board, you ignored all advice given. It's okay, I don't take it personal but you sure seem to.

Just for you I went and looked up some numbers from a really old build I did, it was .020" of top ring gap for a 3.14" bore, so that's like .0065 "/", get out a calculator and stick your bore size next to that figure
I do remember I didn't need to touch them at all, the feeler gauge had a good amount of rattle room in there just from opening the bore out to .004" of potential piston slap

Show me, exactly where I ignored all advice given by you.

From the latest motor build, in my truck thread, the data sheet from the piston vendor. 6 to 7 thou. Right where I gapped them. Ironically the same number you just used.

I did the opposite of ignoring advice. I fretted over the advice in an effort to NOT blow up anymore of my money. having better parts in my motor is not a bad thing.

You're just being being a dick, like you often are, i assume for a reaction. Like a troll. Sad really, most of the info you post has value.

 

[Chevy_man]

Im not changing back to mech fan. this flexi dual fan is rated for 5500 cfm. using the paper method in front of the: boost cooler, trans cooler, ac condensor and radiator, itll hold paper to it. mech fan wouldnt do that. plus the old oem electric fan wouldnt do it either. in fairness, it was 20ish years old.

plus there is already enough shit running off the only belt on the truck, including the supercharger.

it can be a debate for another thread, im just not changing back.

I did stick my gimpy finger it last saturday though.

My guess is the paper trick only works because you changed the shroud.

5500cfm isn't much. Almost like there's a reason the OEMs still use mechanicals for trucks with decent power and tow ratings... The things that make lots of heat?

But yes, that's about the best you can hope for with an electric setup.

Did you go electric water pump? Because the belt is still running it with a fan on the front or not....

 

[87manche]

My guess is the paper trick only works because you changed the shroud.

5500cfm isn't much. Almost like there's a reason the OEMs still use mechanicals for trucks with decent power and tow ratings... The things that make lots of heat?

But yes, that's about the best you can hope for with an electric setup.

Did you go electric water pump? Because the belt is still running it with a fan on the front or not....

But those vehicles generate heat at low speeds.

The same 500hp ls with a mechanical fan gets electric fans in a car.

 

[xr-nut]

My guess is the paper trick only works because you changed the shroud.

5500cfm isn't much. Almost like there's a reason the OEMs still use mechanicals for trucks with decent power and tow ratings... The things that make lots of heat?

But yes, that's about the best you can hope for with an electric setup.

Did you go electric water pump? Because the belt is still running it with a fan on the front or not....

why wouldnt one change the shroud? I mean it comes with the fans attached from flexilite? I think the mishimoto rad is likely the biggest improvement to the cooling. that thing is massive compared to the stocker. I havent run the mech fan since holdner showed on youtubes that its good for 15 or 20 numbers.

honestly, I wish Id have just bought a c5 car. or kept the c6Z that i sold here. instead I just have to be different and build a long bed truck.

But those vehicles generate heat at low speeds.

The same 500hp ls with a mechanical fan gets electric fans in a car.

yep. but they're doing it wrong, mech fans are the bestest.

fuck if i know the answer. lets ask @486......?????

 

[xr-nut]

@486

here's one for ya, I need a new water bottle. these walmart pos's keep breaking on me. what do you recommend oh wise one? something that wont break every fking time it hits the ground. this one tumbled off the seat of the jeep today when I turned around to help my old dog get in. wait I know the answer, get rid of the old dog then the bottle can stay in my hands.

 

[[486]]

@486

here's one for ya, I need a new water bottle. these walmart pos's keep breaking on me. what do you recommend oh wise one? something that wont break every fking time it hits the ground. this one tumbled off the seat of the jeep today when I turned around to help my old dog get in. wait I know the answer, get rid of the old dog then the bottle can stay in my hands.

I've been using half gallon apple juice bottles, they don't break
the caps wear out eventually but you can replace them with caps from the small bottles of arizona iced tea

 

[[486]]

From the latest motor build, in my truck thread, the data sheet from the piston vendor. 6 to 7 thou. Right where I gapped them. Ironically the same number you just used.

Did you set it at that, or did you use that as an absolute minimum?
as said, every time I toss a feeler gauge to them when tossing together another shit pile, it's got quite a bit of rattle room, like 1.5-2x that

 

[[486]]

yep. but they're doing it wrong, mech fans are the bestest.

fuck if i know the answer. lets ask @486......?????

yup
they just work, and they don't add wires

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

But those vehicles generate heat at low speeds.

The same 500hp ls with a mechanical fan gets electric fans in a car.

Street cars vs race cars. Hold one of those street cars WFO around a track for a few minutes and get back to me on how well those electric fans cool the engine.