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Double ended ram hydro assist

as for the log cooler

RD_Fun_Tube_CFD_720x.png
can you or Eric break down this illustration for me please
 
can you or Eric break down this illustration for me please


TL;DR

This is good:

round-high-performance-power-steering-cooler.jpg


And this is garbage:
d13349_2_1000.jpg



Assuming the airflow is hitting the broad side of the cooler.

Now, I'm sure you could whip up some ducts or shrouding to make the "fins the long way" one work better but I think that simulation was meant to compare the case where a guy just slaps one in behind the grill somewhere.
 
I do UA style wheeling down here in the SE. So anywhere from 1-6hrs of driving to get to the trail. I have a friend using a DE ram in place of a steering rack on an IFS setup and he interstate drove it once to the trails, said it was fine and now trailers it LOL.
 
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I've actually had good luck with the log coolers, I like that they add a decent amount of volume to the system. I know they aren't cool race guy approved, but for trail rigs they've worked well.

Has anyone here actually had heat issues on a trail rig with a log and solved it with a tube and fin or plate style?

As cool as the DE ram is, are you positive you can't fit a se ram? I just put one on my pos and was able to put it at an angle down and behind the tie rod.

Toyota knuckles only need 5.25" of throw, so it's not hard to fit :laughing:
That's kind of my logic, I have some friends running log style coolers with typical Toyota hydro assist setups and they are cool to the touch, mine will burn you if you touch it, so it's something with mine. JRs point has me rethinking things pump wise as I was operating off "if it's overheating now, tossing a bigger pump on won't fix it" internet lore.

As for the series of errors I made when I did this SAS that led me to these questions, we can talk those in my build thread to keep this on topic. Suspension works fine and performs well, I just made some errors that I'm working around now. The real solution is cut if all off and start again, but this steering discussion is good as I want to know this stuff anyway.
 
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can you or Eric break down this illustration for me please

purple is low air velocity and red is high. see all the purple in the voids on the log, they are not allowing the air to take the heat away. howe's standard cooler on the their hydro systems is very similar to the Erics and because you move the heat out and allow the air to get in the slots and take it away.

air has to move over a surface for heat to transfer. in the case the log when the air is flowing perpendicular to fins, the air gets into the voids and there stays, doesnt move so your actually creating a thermal blanket instead of taking the heat away.

That's kind of my logic, I have some friends running log style coolers with typical Toyota hydro assist setups and they are cool to the touch, mine will burn you if you touch it, so it's something with mine. JRs point has me rethinking things pump wise as I was operating off "if it's overheating now, tossing a bigger pump on won't fix it" internet lore.

are they running a tacoma pump?
 
are they running a tacoma pump?
Yes with the typical IFS box and hydro assist rams. Ones a 4cyl 1st gen Tacoma, the other with a 3.4 swapped 2nd gen 4runner that runs parts store pumps in it.

That graphic makes sense.
 
Yes with the typical IFS box and hydro assist rams. Ones a 4cyl 1st gen Tacoma, the other with a 3.4 swapped 2nd gen 4runner that runs parts store pumps in it.
same cooler, same size hoses all that stuff?

id start sticking these places and find the heat and heavily consider going to a finned tube cooler to start since it will be the smallest amount of work.

 
or mask all your problems with money

 
same cooler, same size hoses all that stuff?

id start sticking these places and find the heat and heavily consider going to a finned tube cooler to start since it will be the smallest amount of work.

I carry a IR temp gun for keeping an eye on things. Never tried those strips, would be a good way to watch temp drop or lack there of
 
same cooler, same size hoses all that stuff?

id start sticking these places and find the heat and heavily consider going to a finned tube cooler to start since it will be the smallest amount of work.

I didn't go over them with a fine toothed comb, but pretty standard Toyota hydro assist setups that people have been doing for 20+yrs now.

I will toss a new cooler in it for sure and probably a new pump before the end of wheeling season and continue researching this stuff for some rebuilding over the winter. Like you said that's the easiest thing to try and since I like wheeling more than building, this will keep me.on the trail.


Oh hey can I use the trans cooler built into my radiator?!?:flipoff2: jk
 
I think that is a good start. I have a remote cooler with a fan, a PSC DE ram and PSC TC pump. That being said I will spend some money with Eric when i decide to address it again when I tube out the front of the yota. I think the RD Resi and CBX pump alone will work for me, It's just un-assing the cash that holding me back. lol
 
is the system loosing functionality or does the heat seems excessive?

ooh and is the cooler flowing down or uphill?
Heat seems excessive and steering loses functionality if I leave it in 4wd while driving between obstacles, it hasn't totally taken a shit just gets slow and the pump starts groaning especially if it's above 80* out. If I put it in 2wd and or let it sit for a bit steering comes back, almost exactly as JR described on the previous page. Cooler flows uphill.

Interesting point is if I'm highway driving it and touch the cooler at a gas stop, it's pretty hot but the steerings fine, part of the reason why I think my lack of fender well is heat soaking the box a bit.
 
If you’re racing, wanna look cool, like to spend money.

The sweet valve is $700 now. Unless you’re trying to go fast I wouldn’t recommend it
Thank you for the advise. I have that Sweet PS box you linked in my to order list now.

Not go fast like you, maybe some tuff-truck racing, highway, trail bombing.
 
Thank you for the advise. I have that Sweet PS box you linked in my to order list now.

Not go fast like you, maybe some tuff-truck racing, highway, trail bombing.
Remember you’ll have to DIY port it for ram assist.
 
Remember you’ll have to DIY port it for ram assist.
Ah yes. In that case do you think the ported Redheaded boxes work? Buddy has one and loves it on his SE ram.
 
I've actually had good luck with the log coolers, I like that they add a decent amount of volume to the system. I know they aren't cool race guy approved, but for trail rigs they've worked well.

Has anyone here actually had heat issues on a trail rig with a log and solved it with a tube and fin or plate style?

As cool as the DE ram is, are you positive you can't fit a se ram? I just put one on my pos and was able to put it at an angle down and behind the tie rod.

Toyota knuckles only need 5.25" of throw, so it's not hard to fit :laughing:

Who would have thought 44x18.5s would cause stress on the steering system? I have a stacked plate 1/2 in cooler with a fan and thermostat. It cured the slowing of the steering when the fluid got hot. I also have a hydroboost so when the fluid got ridiculously hot I was worried it would affect the brakes. I can't see how a large finned tube would be an improvement on this for cooling.

1627312546329-png.434930


1627312566617-png.434932
 
can you or Eric break down this illustration for me please
As mobil1syn pointed out, colors represent air velocity. I modeled both in a 35 mph cross flow so you can see how fin shape comparatively affects the interaction with ambient air.

purple is low air velocity and red is high. see all the purple in the voids on the log, they are not allowing the air to take the heat away. howe's standard cooler on the their hydro systems is very similar to the Erics and because you move the heat out and allow the air to get in the slots and take it away.

air has to move over a surface for heat to transfer. in the case the log when the air is flowing perpendicular to fins, the air gets into the voids and there stays, doesnt move so your actually creating a thermal blanket instead of taking the heat away.



are they running a tacoma pump?
Howe's cooler has the same fin shape but the major difference is that the Howe cooler is gun drilled so the flow path is a small diameter and the wall thickness from ID of the gun drill to minor diameter of the fins is about 1/2". What I did with mine is made it a three-piece assembly with larger ID so that it has about 5x internal volume (and residence time), 1/8" wall thickness, with flow diffusers in and out to promote mixing and oil contact with the walls rather than getting a core of hot oil that passes straight through.
 
I ditched the heat sink style and went with a tube and fin style cooler and I was finally able to get it out on the trail over the weekend. It works sooo much better, I should have done this a while ago. Now I just need to upgrade the pump.

Old
IMG_20230722_140946941.jpg


New
IMG_20230730_154258473.jpg
 
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Maybe dumb question but can you do a SE ram to the pitman arm easier?
 
Maybe dumb question but can you do a SE ram to the pitman arm easier?
I looked at that, but it may do some weird stuff with it being on leafs. I plan on unfucking my front suspension over the winter and probably linking it. Since posting this I found a pre tapped Toyota box locally for pretty cheap and picked that up.
 
What’s leaf’s got to do with it
Ah never mind I was thinking frame to drag link like some members were talking about in my build thread. I wouldn't physically be able to get a ram to the pitman arm sitting here thinking about it.
 
I’ve got a 2.5”x8” on my WJ with the box still powered. I’m pretty happy with it overall, but it is a little slow at idle, like 2.5 or 3 seconds lock to lock iirc even though I have an undersized pulley. Anywhere above idle the speed is excellent. Because it’s north of 5k lbs and on 42”s i’d do it again the same exact way, but on a lighter rig or smaller tires I would def look at the 2” with 1.25” shaft that Bronco mentioned so it doesn’t need as much volume (but sacrifice a little power). The steering is confident at speed too, no twitching or discomfort

IMG_6713.jpeg
Did you do any box mods other than tapping it?
 
Ah never mind I was thinking frame to drag link like some members were talking about in my build thread. I wouldn't physically be able to get a ram to the pitman arm sitting here thinking about it.
You’re talking about like this?
1692107759120.jpeg
 
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