gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Great job on the arms, they look fantastic.
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Thanks!
WaterH
Well-known member
X4
This is getting a tad ridiculous. This is 7 inches into the full cycle of 16 inches (it was getting sketchy with the jack and didn't want to slam it down)
Everything looks beautiful and smooth in the front as well as the back.
Finished welding up the passenger side front arm.
ground flush, smoothed and installed.
Here, asise frome welding in some limit strap tabs, the suspension is complete.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Question on your sway bar links.
Did you start with a full length solid link, bend it to shape and then plate the sides?
How thick was the original arm you started with that you bent to shape?
I need to do basically the same thing. This is all I'm starting with.
Did you start with a full length solid link, bend it to shape and then plate the sides?
How thick was the original arm you started with that you bent to shape?
I need to do basically the same thing. This is all I'm starting with.
Mine were standard links from kartek. .750" thick, 2.00" tall and 18" long. Used 3/16" A36 to plate them. I did bend the links first, then formed plates to fit them. Your ends will work, but they'll have a lot of inherent flex if they're Hollow. But, mine may be too stiff in combination with 1.25" solid sway bars.Question on your sway bar links.
Did you start with a full length solid link, bend it to shape and then plate the sides?
How thick was the original arm you started with that you bent to shape?
I need to do basically the same thing. This is all I'm starting with.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
What you have sounds more reasonable/normal size wise. My plan is to make them solid like you have.
I need to have bends in mine too. So I think I'll step down the thickness of solid center at the bends by doing welds on mitered cuts instead of heat/bend the same material. Then plate the sides just like you did so I can have a double shear mount at the end.
Looking at what I'm starting with, I just think if I take that all the way to the end, it will be massively overkill and way too big.
From cardboard to steel. Center console in progress. This will let me mount all my shifters, provide some secure storage and let me route the vent hoses for the rear heat/AC. That's some nice progress. Once this is finished out, I'll enclose the towers for the coilovers and interior bodywork will be wrapped up. Then it's on to armor and skid plates.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Lot of room in the console, I like it. Well done.
WaterH
Well-known member
Don’t forget cup holders.
Carry on.
Carry on.
Thanks hopefully I can make it turn out the way I see it in my head.Lot of room in the console, I like it. Well done.
They're on the list.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I bought drop in cup holders from a casino supply place. They were nice and dirt cheap.
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Awesome! Thanks!
Little odds and ends tonight. Got the trans shifter mounted and the cable run. No big deal. Cramming this and the jb conversions transfer case shifters into the console is going to be a major pain in my ass it looks like. Probably going to have to clock the t case back down a hole to make room for the cables, bracket and keep me from completely destroying the floor/toolbox trying to run cables. Ugh. Two steps forward, one back. But if I clock it down, then it looks like I won't have to run a two piece front driveshaft, it'll alleviate some angles, and better clear the transmission.
Slotted hole will have a gasketed cover plate to help keep noise out of the cab. Ended up overly long as i mis-judged the cable routing initially. Easy fix with the plate and gasket.
Looks good, within reach from the seat and it has tap shift capability for the 6L80E. Lokar for the win! This was actually one of the first things I bought for my build when I decided on a 6L80. Glad I did, they're 100 dollars more at least now.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
That shifter looks like a well made piece of kit.
I see your door bars are still just tacked in. Smart man.
I see your door bars are still just tacked in. Smart man.
It is super nice. Door bars are about ready to come back out for a reshape, and I'm tired of crawling over them. Lol.That shifter looks like a well made piece of kit.
I see your door bars are still just tacked in. Smart man.
I started this pain in the ass today. The only place they fit well is behind the trans shifter. And they're completely in the way of the shifter in drive and in tap shift mode. I may have to contact Lokar for a different stick. Regardless, I'm still going to have to cut, turn and rebend the t-case shifter handles, massage the floor underneath slightly, and I've rechecked the t-case twice today. Which resulted in trimming the transmission crossmember and it looks like I'll have to notch it as well. Ugh.
Transmission in drive mode
Trans in tap shift mode
Great spot for driver control/access though
Only left me about a ¼ inch of clearance from the crossmember,
and really tight to the pan.
I may just have to run a two piece front shaft after all and still notch the crossmember in case the mount fails. I can clock it back up about a half inch, but that may require a lot of floor massaging to get the cables to fit. Thoughts?
Then as I sat and finished that post, while looking at replacement handles I started wondering if they were keyed or indexable? Apparently they are not keyed! So I went back out and turned the handle real quick.
now in tap shift
tap shift doesn't hit when pulled back (t case handles in neutral.
and only in the way of the left handle.
Will wait to cut and turn the t case handles, but looks like it won't be nearly as bad. With the change in position I may still need a longer handle for the shifter, but I can always change that later. Would still like thoughts on the crossmember and driveshaft/ floor situation.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Since you're going to be using the trans shifter every time you drive it, I'd put it exactly where you want it and adjust the tc shifters accordingly.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
With the cross member being tube, I don't think you can notch it very much before you can't make up for the strength you're taking out of it. What size it that cross member? 1.75"?
Honestly, I'd clock the tc up and make room for the cables in the floor. Your cross member keeps it's strength and you don't need a 2 piece drive shaft.
Honestly, I'd clock the tc up and make room for the cables in the floor. Your cross member keeps it's strength and you don't need a 2 piece drive shaft.
I'm with gt1guy on the above.
I'm curious to know why you can't/don't move the t-case shifters to the right of the tranny shifter. That's what I did in my Willys and I have the triple stick t-case shifters. I think my console is 8" or maybe 9" wide.
I'm curious to know why you can't/don't move the t-case shifters to the right of the tranny shifter. That's what I did in my Willys and I have the triple stick t-case shifters. I think my console is 8" or maybe 9" wide.
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Looks like that's the likely best option, will have to mount the seat fully and see where it's easy to reach without moving in the seat.
Won't fit to the right. Not enough cable length, and if I force them over, it will put the cables in a bind. I'm probably going to trim the underside of the floor, even though I don't really want to.
Well that makes sense why they have to be close to where you have them. Could you bend the t-case levers to the rear? Or bend the tranny lever forward? Not that you want to muck up their look, but it seems that could maybe work too unless the cowl layout or something else will make that another thing to deal with.
Plan is still to cut the handles on the t case shifters off, shorten, bend and reweld. I can't avoid that, they're in the way regardless.
Because of the curve and offset, longer cables would just push the whole shifter assembly farther forward into the trans shifter.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Especially, since that's where you're tap shifting from. Not having it completely comfortable would drive you nuts.
Maybe slightly shorter cables for the tc? Gain a little space between the two shifters. Pretty sure they can be had in almost any length.
In the pictures, were the tc levers already as far forward as they go?
Is comfortable tap shifting from the original shifter orientation. The twisted layout I haven't tried yet, since it was a late afterthought yesterday evening and I won't have time to play with it until Friday.
shorter cables won't do me much good. Just taking away from usable console space. T case levers are as far forward as they're supposed to go. I have a lot of room and length to be able to reshape them though. It's really a great overall location for everything (from a driveability standpoint) just sucks there's so much interference. I hate cutting up brand new parts, but, I've already chopped the base up considerably on the twin sticks. Just part of fabrication I suppose.
Scottie
Well-known member
Nice shifter, I almost went with that for my 8L. Ended up with radesigns shifter. Placement took me awhile, so just keep at it! Side by side worked best for me. Both my shifters had some level of modification.