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Internal stitches and gussets to help support the frame, winching, and recovery efforts.
Inner support "C" gussts I made to clear the sway bar and still brace the bumper.
A little shaping on the outer corners
Then I made and inletted some recovery points in-line with the frame centers.
Gaps are all snug and doubles as a frame cover.
Corners and seams completely flushed out for that seamless look. Rear bumper valance will help direct air up into the radiator.
tried to get as much surface area to tie these in as possible. They do protrude through the bumper and are fully welded inside as well.
plenty of sway bar clearance.
Ongoing plan is to mount an old warn M12000 winch I have in the shed, then French a 15-18 inch light bar into the front of the bumper with a recessed full circumference mount. Toss a couple fog lights up top for that classic look and call it done.
Also managed to re-drill and tap the steering wheel adapter to fit this euro spec wheel
threw the cover back on to keep it nice.
then ran a reamer through a few holes and buttoned up the rest of the steering. That's exciting! Still need to add a stabilizer and plumb the box, but the steering works and is essentially complete.
Gauges are also starting to trickle in, so I can start back in on the dash and Instrumentation. Going with all autometer ultralight series and will be building a flip down, easy access gauge panel to mount in the dash.
Gauges are also starting to trickle in, so I can start back in on the dash and Instrumentation. Going with all autometer ultralight series and will be building a flip down, easy access gauge panel to mount in the dash.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Looking good. How thick is the material you used for the front bumper?
3/16 for most of it. Winch box will be getting reinforced, and bolts will be getting large weld washers. Bumper is also attached with 8 1/2" bolts.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Ok, if it was thicker I was going to suggest a two pass cap over what you already had on the padeyes. I always do fillet welds that match the thickness of what they're welded to.
I agree, especially if surface attachment to the outer surface only, but with pockets and interior welds it makes a huge difference in overall strength. That's why I pocketed them to begin with.
Managed to squeeze a little bit of time in on Judy today. Had fun with some CAD (Cardboard aided drafting) and completed a layout for a gauge panel since my gauges have started to trickle in. The speedometer is slightly obstructed from the drivers seat (I felt the tach needed more visibility). Jeep is getting all autometer ultralight series (GPS speedo, water temp, trans temp, oil pressure, voltmeter, fuel pressure and fuel level) and an autogage (autometer) 5" tach. All dash recessed in a removable stainless panel to match the dash. Let me know what you think of the layout. I like it, but I'm not necessarily in love with it.
I also made three stainless gauge panels, so I may be able to part with a couple (and part numbers for what's installed) if anyone is interested after I finish mine.
I also made three stainless gauge panels, so I may be able to part with a couple (and part numbers for what's installed) if anyone is interested after I finish mine.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Are you going to angle them so the gauges more/less point at you when seated?
No, tried it with the panel, didn't care for it, just going to mount them flush and flat.
Thoughts on this layout vs. The other one?
top or bottom
Mike Honcho
Red Skull Member
I like the bottom with the tach centered
Bottom, I like the fuel level being with all the other vital gauges instead of off by itself with the speedo.Thoughts on this layout vs. The other one?
top or bottom
Firstram
Well-known member
Can you put the fuel where the oil is so the larger face is surrounded by the 5 smaller ones.bottom
Sort of the opposite of this
Shouldn't the five other gauges be a little bigger then?Can you put the fuel where the oil is so the larger face is surrounded by the 5 smaller ones.
Sort of the opposite of this
Firstram
Well-known member
Some folks like them big
Or option 3?
Treefrog
Book Wheeler
Option 3
Went with option 3. Now I have to decide whether to sand or attempt to polish.
From concept to finished product
modified the pillar mount bracket to an industrial style rear mount/panel mount
I've been holding onto this tach since 2012 when I was building a scout 2, that I subsequently sold because I needed the money. Finally found a worthy project to toss it into.
Also made some frame horn reinforcement plates to stiffen it up for winching and to keep it from cracking by the steering box.
This is where I gave up for the day.
Firstram
Well-known member
That panel looks great, the consistent perimeter spacing and balance of different sized gages is nice 
Thanks bud!That panel looks great, the consistent perimeter spacing and balance of different sized gages is nice
Pulled the trans pan today to get to the TCM, pan was left full from the pullout. Fluid was clean, red and minimal flake . Good signs for sure!
Valve body came out, all the ports looked clean and the TCM came out easily.
Easiest valve body I've pulled.
Started on the rear coilover closure structure and sandwich plates.
35 amps with .030 filler wire filled the corner perfectly.
55 amps with 1/16" filler
Closure plate top sanded and installed. These will be getting sheet metal covers that mate to the roll bar to hide the open structure.
thrillbilly85
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2023
- Member Number
- 6949
- Messages
- 138
I saw your posts on Facebook, and you directed me here. It was cool getting to read this from start to now, in one place.
Two pages back you mentioned you hadn't fully decided on engine management.
I strongly recommend ACES EFI. They have a ton of cool LS stuff. Stand alone systems, etc etc. Their tech support has been out of this world.
I used their killshot system on my 383, which is similar (but better) to the Holley Sniper system.
They're in Tennessee, and a human actually answers the phone when you call. They may be out of pocket currently, as I think they're all at SEMA
Two pages back you mentioned you hadn't fully decided on engine management.
I strongly recommend ACES EFI. They have a ton of cool LS stuff. Stand alone systems, etc etc. Their tech support has been out of this world.
I used their killshot system on my 383, which is similar (but better) to the Holley Sniper system.
They're in Tennessee, and a human actually answers the phone when you call. They may be out of pocket currently, as I think they're all at SEMA
WaterH
Well-known member
From concept to finished product
Are you going to have turn signal indicator lights? How about a oil pressure indicator light. I know you have a gauge, but I like a separate light with its own sender. If the light goes on, you check the gauge. If the gauge reads zero, you check the light. If one or the other does not say no oil pressure, you can continue to a convenient place to fix. If both show no pressure, stop now.
Im percial to the aviation “press to test” style.
View attachment A0DCCC4C-2F47-4360-BFAA-2A823594E03A.webp
They have them in all colors and the disable feature is nice. You leave em full bright until they light. Then if you determine it’s a false alert, just dim them so not to bug you.
Thanks for coming over and visiting. I appreciate the thought with aces. I've talked to them, unfortunately they don't support drive by wire with 6L80E transmissions. Good guys to talk to. PSI is doing my reflash tune and standalone harness. I'll have to take it to a dyno tuner when it's all together.
Nice! I like those press to test light. I have indicators and a CEL light. Hadn't considered a dummy light for oil pressure. I'll be adding a 2qt accumulator system to the engine to prevent oil starvation at odd angles. But a dummy light is definitely a good idea.
Not much to report, much to my chagrin. Got caught up on everyone else's stuff, and I started back to college, so even less free time. Pulled the bezels and buckets out of another 5 I'm parting out.
decided to pull the roller pedal and exchange it for an old barefoot type pedal. I feel like it fits the build way better.
welded out the rear sway bar arms finally. Going to sand and flush the welds out yet.
Saturday we did a one day cage build on a friends 3b. Its always been her dream to have a sand jeep. So she's resurrecting an 80s build (327/4 speed/dana 18) "the pink panther"
made a roof for it too.
and I've been working on a little bbq trophy for a competition. Cute little smoker. Haha.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
That is so cool
I thought I was being cool having a old school foot switch for the high beams, but a foot print gas peddle is the shit.
Managed to get out in the shop today and finish flushing out the welds on the rear sway bar links.
tossed em in and installed the link ends. Here at full stuff.
articulates with no binding and by being over center as far as they are, i should be able to get full travel out of the rear (23 inches)
Then I started on the front link arms.
welded up and flushed out to match the rears
can't get much more in-line than that.
Set vertical at at full stuff and over center from top to bottom. Should provide for full travel
And plenty of steering clearance.
