gt1guy
Apparently a racist
What ECU are you running?
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Currently just the stock Pontiac g8 ecu, but I've been weighing a couple options in the aftermarket for a stand alone harness and ecu setup.
A little more fuel system progress today, feed and return lines run, with Teflon isolators and tube clips, just need to install another bulkhead and some more bulkhead fittings, then I can cap and seal the system until the body is on and I run the braided lines up the firewall and to the engine. Next will be brake lines, and slightly repositioning the engine/trans for a flatter belly and exhaust clearancing. I know it doesn't look like it, but there is a lot of clearance between the transfer case and the fuel line.
Made some tabs that you can tap the fitting down into, then peen the edges over to hold the brake line fittings
Installed and peened over
Best flaring tool ever. Made fittings a snap. It was awesome.
first line run down the trailing arms. Will be the same on both sides. Need to make some guards for the lower loops. All nickel/copper brake line so they'll never rot.
Crossover line to the passenger side.
axle end braided stainless lines and stubs (ready to run to soft ine when the rotors and calipers are installed.
drivers side line runn tee and trailing arm tie in. Same on all sides. All hoses will be same length for easy spares and replacement.
ready for master cylinder tie in. If you look close, you can see I used self sealing shrink tube around the brake line at the zip tie tabs to keep the line from chafing.
better view of anti-chafe points
What's really exciting, is I just need to move the engine forward and up an inch (chage mounts, flatter belly) and once that's done, the body can finally go back on til it's running. Then tear down for paint and body. Getting closer. Trying to knock stuff out before I start college again in October. Plus teaching weld class 3 nights a week and a regular job. So it's gonna slow down considerably............... again.
So I started on something I've been dreading for a minute, but had to be done before the body goes back on, and it's the last big step before I drop it back on and start finishing a lot of stuff.
You have to get fairly creative when you're by yourself and you want to make sure everything is really stable for accurate measurements.
Old engine and trans mounts cut out and moved up and forward into position. . Made a ton of roomfor exhaust and accessories. I could actually squeeze stock manifolds in, but they would need v bands to fit.
Braccing and blocking (temporary)
New engine and trans mounts tig'd out.
new trans mount. Sturdier and lighter than my first one, and easier to install/remove.
beefy.
will have to make some fish plates to close off the holes for the old trans mount and reinforce the area.
New engine mounts installed.
Wrapped a portion of the tube under the frame. Will still need to gusset and plate to the top of the frame, but it's stable enough for now.
Trans mount installed, way better than before.
Easy access to the transfer case.
looks good floating in there again.
Hopefully have the body on again next weekend. Wish me luck.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Good Luck
At least I didn't weld over a fill hole......Good Luck
Had time tonight after work for a couple hours. Managed to complete the engine mounts with triangle gussets and frame tie ins. Mounting area is reinforced from the outside with the shock hoop tie ins. The area is extremely well braced all the way around. Made fish plates to reinforce the transmission mount/crossmember inside and outside the frame to hopefully keep it from cracking over time. Also took the time tonight to make the bracket for the trailer 7 pin connector (I plan to be able to tow light campers with it and wanted to be able to run trailer brakes). It's tucked in tight so it won't be visible looking at the back of the rig. And it's less susceptible to damage. Same with the electrical heavy duty battery connector mount in the back. Wanted to be able to have a jumper cablet/winch power cable in the rear too (will have the same receptacle in the front for easy connection). The frame is now complete and ready to throw the body back on. 2 1/2 years to get to this point. I'm excited because the final phase before paint and body can now begin.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Well done Sir
Has to feel good to get to this point.
Has to feel good to get to this point.
Man, you ain't kidding. Felt like a weight getting lifted off for sure.Well done Sir
Has to feel good to get to this point.
Are you tired of my updates yet? A couple hours today and the body is returned to its rightful place. Nice to see it looking like a jeep again. Fits like a glove. The engine adjustments I made worked out perfectly, with no wasted clearance underneath. Awesome to have my floor space back again too....
Body is back on. Even with the engine shift everything fit perfectly.
a little tighter on the cowl. But that's why i put in access panels.
Plenty of room for the fuel system
What a relief
Attachments
Had to throw the front end back on it just because I wanted to see it dressed again. Still a lot more to bolt back in, but I'll get to it.
Now, in the history of 4 wheeling, some dumb axles have been put together that didn't need time or money dumped into them but, today, I present to you, the dumbest front axle ever. The 1978 corporate 10 bolt gm, with a buncha crap welded to it.
starting the truss, used some 3x6x.250 wall box tube for the main spars after slightly trimming the axle.
main center section support burned in, floor spar for the long side stitched on
1/8 inch full width tie in plate
which was then hammered over the edge to give it a smooth edge for sliding over obstacles, and to further reinforce the structure.
same on the backside and slowly hand trimmed to fit.
complete rear view with added knuckle gussets and tie ins for the top link tower.
front view with tires. Didn't lose much, if any ground clearance after trimming the center casting. Looks like a really wide toyota axle now.
starting the truss, used some 3x6x.250 wall box tube for the main spars after slightly trimming the axle.
And one more from this morning after tossing the front end back under it
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I don't think a bent axle will ever be in your future.
Well done
Well done
Thanks. That was a pile of work yesterday.I don't think a bent axle will ever be in your future.
Well done
Been knocking stuff off my list. Checking clearances again after moving the engine,
Everything looks good, tight in the front, but great under and around the engine
with the move it allowed me to clear the alternator in the stock location with at least a half inch of clearance at full stuff. I am going to put a hard stop as insurance over the axle in case i have a partial airbump or pad failure.
Cut a pocket out of the passenger side rail (this area doesn't really support anything, the tube structure takes the load)
And that let me fit the stock AC compressor in the stock location with several inches for driveshaft clearance. Awesome!
Pocket welded back in for support
pulled the rear axle to finish welding everything out, detroit locker is on the way, I have the gears, so its time to tear into this thing for the last time and finish the 14. Then it can be painted and final installed.
Since the hurricane/ tropical storm/ wet day in the desert provided an extra day off, I got busy with the disc brake conversion on the rear axle. Gears and locker are next and it will be the first major component that's complete and painted on the jeep. A big step forward! Whipped up that little axle stand this morning out of some stuff from my steel pile. Worked out great.
pockets for clearance at full stuff with the rear sway bar and sway bar tabs
Lugnut 4x4 prided the conversion parts, everything went right together with no issues.
first side done. Fresh seals, bearings, brake hoses and longer wheel studs for alloy wheels. Nice! All included in the kit.
Money shot with both sides done.
was a slick kit.
locker and master install kit is on the way, I already have the gears. Need to order an inch pound torque wrench and a better bearing puller, or build one. But it will be nice to have a major component finished finally.
Mike Honcho
Red Skull Member
Looks good. That axle stand is tits!
I see you like to use speed tape on shop projects also
I see you like to use speed tape on shop projects also
Thanks! Not bad for scraps and a free pipe vise. Figured I could use it for pipe projects later anyway. Yes I do, gott seal em up, aluminum tape or good duct tape are go to's for sure.Looks good. That axle stand is tits!
I see you like to use speed tape on shop projects also
Tore the center section down tonight
had 3.55s in it. I lied earlier when i said 4.56s. Checked the gears I got a while back. 4.88s. Even better.
almost a shame i tore it apart all the gears and spiders looked beautiful.
Yukon locker finally came in today. 5 days late. Thanks ups.
and the box. At least all the parts stayed in it. Again, thanks UPS.
Locker in and the 4.88 ring gear installed and torqued.
Locktite and torque stripe. Might hate myself later, but it shouldn't come loose.
Fresh bearings and the assembly tossed in the pumpkin. Pinion yoke is being very stubborn, so im soaking it with some pb blaster for a couple days, then I'll try to tear it apart and finish the install on Friday.Then I can button this one up and paint it.
So I set up gears today, made this nifty little oiled bronze preload spacer, instead of using the crush sleeve.
on the pinion
After tightening down the yoke I ended up with 35 ft/lbs preload on the pinion bearings with the seal installed.
Here is .006" backlash
.008" shim on pinion carrier
Drive side of gears
Coast side.
drive side transfer
To me, it looks like it could they could go deeper on the pinion, but .008" is the thinnest shim I have. What do you guys think? I don't want them noisy, as I do plan on running this on the street.
Here is .006" backlash
.008" shim on pinion carrier
Drive side of gears
I got some advice the other day from several guys saying to just pull the shim. I did today and it almost perfectly centered the drive side pattern. Reset and ended up centered with .005" backlash (checked 4 spots around the ring gear) and then pulled, cleaned and sealed the pinion cassette with some gray aircraft rtv. The transfer on second revolution shows the pattern much clearer.
coast side looked good too.
cleaned up the axles and tossed em back in with fresh gaskets.
ready for final cleanup and paint. First big piece is just about finished.
Was able to seal the axle up and finally get the first layer of paint on something. Good ol krylon paint/primer to the rescue. Needs a few more coats, but its progress. That feels good to finally start breaking into the paint stage.
Made a couple little guards for the brake line loops on the trailing arms to keep them protected where they were most vulnerable.
Finally figured out a sway bar end link design that doesn't bother me.
At full stuff, they'll run flat with the frame
these will be double shear, fully plated and wrapped.
plus a pule of parts to throw in the front axles. New bearings/seals/joints, 4.88 R&P and a torsen type limited slip (didn't want to do a locker and torsens get pretty tight anyway). New knuckles and a pile of steering components
Will be ready for driveshafts soon after all this is stuffed in.
Got busy this evening. Sand blasted (for a light scuff and to make sure the primer/paint adhered properly) then painted all the rear suspension. Axle got 2 more coats, and the trailing arms and upper links got 3 coats. Then I started in on the rear sway bar links.
Probably did it the least efficient and hardest effort way, but it made sure I had 4 identical link ends by laying out 1, tacking all four together and then using a cutoff wheel and flap to cut them all out. Welded the modified link ends back together, then did the outer plates. Will get to the upper and lower wrap connectors another day.
Probably did it the least efficient and hardest effort way, but it made sure I had 4 identical link ends by laying out 1, tacking all four together and then using a cutoff wheel and flap to cut them all out. Welded the modified link ends back together, then did the outer plates. Will get to the upper and lower wrap connectors another day.
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gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Looking good. Those sway bar arms look beef.
Glad there's a few people building arms right now. Now I can just copy what you guys came up with and look like a hero.
Glad there's a few people building arms right now. Now I can just copy what you guys came up with and look like a hero.