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pennsylvaniaboy said:
^^^ this seems to be the consensous. At the moment it's $200 for 1350 yokes....or close to $1000 for 32 spline outputs with yokes.....that's not counting machining needed.
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The only machining required is on the front retainer for the larger seal/bearing. Minimal cost at any machine shop. Takes longer to indicate it in than it does to cut it. Also if you go that route take the seal to the machine shop as the JB drawing dim is not correct for the seal they send.
 
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^^^good to know. I know the cases are known for splitting and flexing. I am hoping the rear girdle and mount will help. But with that in mind, would adding the TDS COVER PLATE help?

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I like the girdle. It may need modified with the JB output. If I remember right I think the JB housing is thicker at the mounting holes.

I think the consensus on case failures is when the stock gears grenade they wedge in the housing and bust it.
 
maybe tax return will get some t case upgrades.., might get seats in the meantime and keep tinkering with interior
 
^^^^trufff but it tedious work. Time sink, I got lots of time being winter. Come summer, I got less piddle time. But maybe I’ll splurge and get the case all rigged out. I gotta build a trans at some point to.
 
Looking good! Making quick work of some annoying tedious steps.

I see your rear lowers are super close to your uppers. With the numbers I got from Richard your lower should be about 5.5" outboard of your upper, why does yours look closer than that? I see his numbers are for narrower wms. I'll be running 72" and planned on pulling these brackets outboard as far as possible without hitting the wheel fully turnt.

I'm just curious on why you look like you went narrower before I go the route I planned on.
 
Wuz-A-zuk said:
Looking good! Making quick work of some annoying tedious steps.

I see your rear lowers are super close to your uppers. With the numbers I got from Richard your lower should be about 5.5" outboard of your upper, why does yours look closer than that? I see his numbers are for narrower wms. I'll be running 72" and planned on pulling these brackets outboard as far as possible without hitting the wheel fully turnt.

I'm just curious on why you look like you went narrower before I go the route I planned on.
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you are the second person to ask that in 24hrs.... I will grab a tape when I get home and see if they match the numbers in the book. I could push them out, but doing so would definitely require me to push my frame mount out and down IIRC.
 
Wuz-A-zuk said:
Looking good! Making quick work of some annoying tedious steps.

I see your rear lowers are super close to your uppers. With the numbers I got from Richard your lower should be about 5.5" outboard of your upper, why does yours look closer than that? I see his numbers are for narrower wms. I'll be running 72" and planned on pulling these brackets outboard as far as possible without hitting the wheel fully turnt.

I'm just curious on why you look like you went narrower before I go the route I planned on.
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Wondered the same....
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
you are the second person to ask that in 24hrs.... I will grab a tape when I get home and see if they match the numbers in the book. I could push them out, but doing so would definitely require me to push my frame mount out and down IIRC.
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I'm about to be a couple months behind you and I don't know enough to know any better but just thought I'd mention it.:laughing:

I'm no link expert at all but these numbers for this chassis are different then I'm used to seeing (not a whole lot haha). I was thinking they're too close to the portal numbers he gives too but YJ4Rox is running straight axles and after watching his videos on YouTube I saw nothing that made me think something wasn't right. That is assuming he used all the numbers given to him as well.

I've been watching you, you already saved me from buying the wrong heims :lmao:
 
my next plan is to hopefully get seats. Planning on looking at some factory style seats this weekend. While not super cool, it fits the budget.

Also going to do the engine skid soon. debating on a flat one that has a little taper down towards the axle to just clear the oil pan. or to make a very small v to just it a little extra space and rigidity..

skid 2.jpg
skid.jpg
 
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So according to my math, my uppers are 3” farther apart than he specs. But that’s due to my diff and truss. Lowers are the axle are per specs, lowers are the frame are actually 3” closer than they should be. Not sure if this will be good,bad or otherwise. Or if it’s worth cutting tacks and moving stuff
 
I could oust the lowers out on the frame/axle. I also realized my uppers at the frame are 1” closer together than spec

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pennsylvaniaboy said:
I could oust the lowers out on the frame/axle. I also realized my uppers at the frame are 1” closer together than spec

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Unless you re-run the numbers in the link calculator and know what you're shooting for, I'd recommend you run what he designed for. JMO of course, but designing link suspension that works is not as easy as it might seem.
 
Well I decided to get the scat/procar seats. Jegs had them with no additional shipping. Delivered next day to my surprise. Overall a good buy. I have no doubt that higher end seat would be nicer. But these fit well, and are stupid light.

I put them in the buggy and knew immediately that it was the right call to go “low back” , these are really mid back. They come to my shoulders. If I had picked a seat with a headrest it would have pushed the seat forward or my head higher. Neither would have been ideal.

As I have seen several people do here, the seats pivot forwards, and removes with a pull pin. I am still brainstorming a rear mount as my first idea has too many interferences.
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I will try to get the GF or my kids to take a selfie pic today with me in it. It really doesn't feel that reclined. Im not sure I could have gotten too much more vertical. In my foolsize my seats are way more upright, but you have so much drop from the seat to the floor that reclined would suck. With this, there is hardly any from from seats to floor/pedals that reclined is pretty ideal
 
ridered3 said:
pennsylvaniaboy seats look :smokin: Reclined back like that, you should be able to see up the trail great.
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I like them too. The only thing I could suggest is some small fixed headrests in the frame. That way you wouldn’t bang your head in a bad bump. Maybe just some tube insulation on those angle tubes.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
I will try to get the GF or my kids to take a selfie pic today with me in it. It really doesn't feel that reclined. Im not sure I could have gotten too much more vertical. In my foolsize my seats are way more upright, but you have so much drop from the seat to the floor that reclined would suck. With this, there is hardly any from from seats to floor/pedals that reclined is pretty ideal
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Cool deal. It’s always hard to see/judge angles in pictures anyway.
 
the camera angle maybe playing tricks on me but it looks like there is a or will be a bar directly behind your head. maybe its the camera
 
Head rests can be like what woody did.

www.rockcrawler.com

Build - JHF Trail Chassis

WMS is 70 (pretty standard for a trail rig). I know a few locals that run narrower for comps, then add spacers for the trail. I'm a Toyota guy....so the rear shaft will be 100% Toyota joints. The front will need a 1350 at the yoke, then Toyota from the carrier to the case. JE Reel is building...
www.rockcrawler.com www.rockcrawler.com
 
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