Chief buggy

[Ghetto Fab.]

The only reason I will continue to use suspensions is the 'safety' aspect of a suspension seat over a traditional one....but if comfort was my ultimate goal, for me, I'd definitely go with a decent factory automotive seat.

What is the safety aspect of suspension seats? Everything I've ever read on the subject seems to think they aren't really that safe. I guess I wouldn't think they are any safer or less safe than a factory seat. I like the idea of the fiberglass shell seats like what was posted earlier, but for a technical crawling buggy I'd want less head restraint. For going fast they make sense.

+1 here also for factory mid 90s 4runner seats. Currently dailying the 94 4runner and seats are good to go!

 

[Sean]

What is the safety aspect of suspension seats? Everything I've ever read on the subject seems to think they aren't really that safe. I guess I wouldn't think they are any safer or less safe than a factory seat. I like the idea of the fiberglass shell seats like what was posted earlier, but for a technical crawling buggy I'd want less head restraint. For going fast they make sense.

+1 here also for factory mid 90s 4runner seats. Currently dailying the 94 4runner and seats are good to go!

Allegedly a factory seat can allow you to more easily bottom out in it and compress your spine. Now, I'd think that is partially dependent on how it's mounted, the distance from the seating surface to the floor and the construction of the seat. Also, obviously a one piece, tube frame seat with skin essentially 'stretched' over it has fewer failure points than a seat that can recline or trundle forward (though reclining in a caged vehicle is unlikely....though I do suppose it could come forward in a hard enough hit moving you closer to the steering wheel).

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Soo totally switching topics...

Dana300 upgrades


I am planning to run 1350 drive shafts. I can get 1350 yokes for the stock outputs. Of you can spend the coin and get the 32 spline outputs. I am going to run a 2 piece front shaft. If I NEED better outputs, now is the time as the 26 spline yokes are $100/ea. Versus new 32 splines for rear output is $510 with a yoke and front is $350 with yoke.


Up stream is of this is a 3.9. 904, eco box, d300(stock gears), down stream will be tons, 4.88's and 40's

 

[Sean]

Soo totally switching topics...

Dana300 upgrades


I am planning to run 1350 drive shafts. I can get 1350 yokes for the stock outputs. Of you can spend the coin and get the 32 spline outputs. I am going to run a 2 piece front shaft. If I NEED better outputs, now is the time as the 26 spline yokes are $100/ea. Versus new 32 splines for rear output is $510 with a yoke and front is $350 with yoke.


Up stream is of this is a 3.9. 904, eco box, d300(stock gears), down stream will be tons, 4.88's and 40's

Buy once, cry once would seem to apply....plus, the tcase really is the heart of a 4wd system. Seems to make sense to invest $$$ there.

 

[JR4X]

I miss the OG TS seats I had in my rig originally. More comfy than the PRP Comp I got now.

You are a pretty big dude right?

I’m tall but it’s all in my legs. I sit short and the Comp Elite are perfect for me. Standing, I’m taller than my co driver by quite a bit. Sitting down I’m shorter than him.

 

[Ghetto Fab.]

I got a few people telling me in my thread that stock 300 outputs work just fine. I think having a doubler would change that though. The amount of torque you could put into the system just increased by 2.7 times and it all hits the t-case outputs.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

yeh, genuinely curious. my guess is with my driving style they will hold up. and Im tempted to try spend the $200 on yoke, and go. But I have only run 205's and manuals in fullsizes.

 

[Sluggy]

Could do toyota driveshafts, that's what I did to my d300

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Could do toyota driveshafts, that's what I did to my d300

but why?

also couldn't tell you the last time I saw a yota on the trail here. I have spare 1350 parts, old shaft, etc. So i should be able to throw together spares for cheap. Like I can get free front super duty shafts etc.

 

[Sluggy]

Get more degrees and smaller total package. And the age of debate of 1350 vs toyota.

Also toyota 32spline/26 spline are decently cheap

 

[ridered3]

You are a pretty big dude right?

I’m tall but it’s all in my legs. I sit short and the Comp Elite are perfect for me. Standing, I’m taller than my co driver by quite a bit. Sitting down I’m shorter than him.

He's long and skinny with lots of legs too. I have to sit on the very edge of the seat to move his buggy around.

 

[Sean]

You are a pretty big dude right?

I’m tall but it’s all in my legs. I sit short and the Comp Elite are perfect for me. Standing, I’m taller than my co driver by quite a bit. Sitting down I’m shorter than him.

Yep...torso/leg length make a HUGE difference in fitment.

 

[Sean]

Get more degrees and smaller total package. And the age of debate of 1350 vs toyota.

Also toyota 32spline/26 spline are decently cheap

Not to mention flange drive which IME is far superior to ubolt yokes.

 

[JR4X]

He's long and skinny with lots of legs too. I have to sit on the very edge of the seat to move his buggy around.

I remember now. He and I discussed it a little bit in my Bronco thread. I think he’s still taller torso than I am

 

[Bebop]

You are a pretty big dude right?

I’m tall but it’s all in my legs. I sit short and the Comp Elite are perfect for me. Standing, I’m taller than my co driver by quite a bit. Sitting down I’m shorter than him.

I'm 6'3, 180lbs on a fat day

And yeah, long legs.

The TS seats were just a lot comfier than the PRP Comp Elite.

I only chose PRP seats cause they're the only ones offering higher backs. I got the +2" and they're close to perfect. But not perfect.

I can talk about seats for a long while. I have PRPs cause they were close in budget and functionality. Not cause they were the best.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Get more degrees and smaller total package. And the age of debate of 1350 vs toyota.

Also toyota 32spline/26 spline are decently cheap

Fair point, I wouldnt even know the first place to go looking for builder parts

 

[jdg15]

Here are some more photos of a 3.9/tf904/eco/d300

Does the 904 bolt up to the 3.9 without any adapters? I have a 32rh which is a 904 basically from what I can tell. I had bought adapters to do a ecotec swap but the initial cost of these 3.9's is much cheaper.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Does the 904 bolt up to the 3.9 without any adapters? I have a 32rh which is a 904 basically from what I can tell. I had bought adapters to do a ecotec swap but the initial cost of these 3.9's is much cheaper.

Yes and no. It has to be from a 4cyl wrangler. I forget the year range. I’ll try to find it. You also have to trim the bottom of the bell housing a bit. And I think I’ll end I’m needing a washer or 2 between the flex plate and torque converter bolt mounts.

But other than that, yes

 

[jdg15]

Yes and no. It has to be from a 4cyl wrangler. I forget the year range. I’ll try to find it. You also have to trim the bottom of the bell housing a bit. And I think I’ll end I’m needing a washer or 2 between the flex plate and torque converter bolt mounts.

But other than that, yes

got ya, mine is from a 4cyl TJ

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

got ya, mine is from a 4cyl TJ

Then you should be gtg

 

[white-rhino]

Soo totally switching topics...

Dana300 upgrades

Up stream is of this is a 3.9. 904, eco box, d300(stock gears), down stream will be tons, 4.88's and 40's

I got a few people telling me in my thread that stock 300 outputs work just fine. I think having a doubler would change that though. The amount of torque you could put into the system just increased by 2.7 times and it all hits the t-case outputs.

Why 4.88's? I'm assuming because you have them? Between the doubler, gearing and tire size, your 300 will be stressed, regardless of how you drive. I started out with 4.88 in my YJ (pictured in my avatar) and was SOOOO much happier when I switched to 5.38's. Something to consider...........

 

[JR4X]

Why 4.88's? I'm assuming because you have them? Between the doubler, gearing and tire size, your 300 will be stressed, regardless of how you drive. I started out with 4.88 in my YJ (pictured in my avatar) and was SOOOO much happier when I switched to 5.38's. Something to consider...........

He and I looked, there aren’t 5.38’s for the 11 up E locked 10 1/2” rear axle he’s trying to use

 

[white-rhino]

He and I looked, there aren’t 5.38’s for the 11 up E locked 10 1/2” rear axle he’s trying to use

gotcha.
pennsylvaniaboy, I didn't go back to look. You sticking with stock reduction in the 300 or going 4:1? Or relying on the doubler for extra reduction? I think with the doubler your final ratio will be decent but it will be hard on the 300. Just my .02

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

He and I looked, there aren’t 5.38’s for the 11 up E locked 10 1/2” rear axle he’s trying to use

Why 4.88's? I'm assuming because you have them? Between the doubler, gearing and tire size, your 300 will be stressed, regardless of how you drive. I started out with 4.88 in my YJ (pictured in my avatar) and was SOOOO much happier when I switched to 5.38's. Something to consider...........

This... Granted I could go with a 2010 and down housing, but this one has been trimmed and plated, and its here. It also has the bigger pinion, vs the older 2010- sterling axles. I have 5.13's and 4.1 and a manual and it's got plenty low. I rarely use granny in double low

Im assuming, with the doubler being even lower, , 4.88s should be mighty close. Using grimjeeper, if I eliminate granny low, it would be geared lower than what I now.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

gotcha.
pennsylvaniaboy, I didn't go back to look. You sticking with stock reduction in the 300 or going 4:1? Or relying on the doubler for extra reduction? I think with the doubler your final ratio will be decent but it will be hard on the 300. Just my .02

stock 300 at the moment....I realize there are so many ways to skin this cat

 

[YJ4Rox]

Upgrade the 300 outputs IMO especially with the doubler. Ive seen the rear break without a doubler behind a high mileage 4.0, a low HP TBI 350 and a 4 banger but with a heavy right foot. Shoot the 4 banger still had 1310 ujoints.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

^^^ this seems to be the consensous. At the moment it's $200 for 1350 yokes....or close to $1000 for 32 spline outputs with yokes.....that's not counting machining needed.

 

[chaplinfj60]

late to the party. but its a 2:1 or 2.72 to 1? ifs it 2 to 1 can a 205 work?

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

late to the party. but its a 2:1 or 2.72 to 1? ifs it 2 to 1 can a 205 work?

at this point, I really dont want to go that route. I have the drive train based around the 300, that might be at some point. But the goal was to be a light and compact as possible. I have the mounts setup for this. The ecobox-i is specific to the d300.No idea if you can change the eco-i over to a 205.

 

[Sean]

at this point, I really dont want to go that route. I have the drive train based around the 300, that might be at some point. But the goal was to be a light and compact as possible. I have the mounts setup for this. The ecobox-i is specific to the d300.No idea if you can change the eco-i over to a 205.

Yeah, with a chassis kit like the Hulse or a JHF, fitting anything larger than a D300 size case can be tough. I think Hulse is more forgiving, but even an Atlas in a JHF is a major deviation from the plan. I was going to use a pair of TWF 3 speed Heros in a pair of small portal cars, since I have them....but now I'm rethinking that and am seriously considering D300s instead for the weight/size, though I don't want to give up the extra gearing option.